To avoid needling in box cast or dammed work you need to provide a space for the glass to flow into.
This is done by using 3mm thick fibre paper to line the damming materials. The fibre paper is cut to 3mm less than the finished height of the fired piece.
Fire the glass with a long bubble soak. This allows the glass to almost achieve its final height before it becomes less viscous. It will still be higher than the fibre paper and as the glass continues to be more “soft” it will round as it reaches full fusing temperature. There is not enough glass above the fibre – only 3mm – for the glass to run over the fibre, as the surface tension holds it in until 6 or 7mm above the fibre. The top edge of the glass does not touch the fibre or dam, so there are no needles.
Another way to avoid needles in this kind of work is to make the dams larger than the glass being contained. That is, place the dams a short distance away from the glass. The glass will then flow out to meet the dams. Since the glass is not contracting it will not have needles. This is a good solution when the thickness of the glass is not critical. You control the area of the piece by the placing of the dams.
Monday 26 April 2010
Saturday 10 April 2010
Charging the Pot for a Melt
The way you charge (load the glass into) the pot makes a difference to the resulting piece.
A good way to get strong colour separation is to put two colours on opposite sides and a third colour or clear between them. The two side colours will have best separation if they are not more than 1/3 each. As the glass begins to flow out of the pot, all three colours will come out at once and form concentric circles (assuming a circular hole in the pot).
You can manipulate and alter the results with a fair amount of predictability by changing the diameter and shape of the hole, charging the pot with more than three colours or less, rearranging the orientation into a sunburst orientation or whatever comes to mind. Be sure to keep notes on what you did and what the results were in case you want to reproduce the effect.
Think about how the glass will flow out of the pot when you charge it with glass. If you layer colours horizontally from C (on top) to A (on bottom), it will initially flow out in colour A, then B, then C. After that initial flow, which will be on the outside of the finished piece, the main flow will be from the top (C), then the middle (B) and finally the bottom (A). This is because after the initial flow, the rest of the glass comes out in a funnel shape pulling the top and small portions of the underlying glass.
This means that layering is the best way of mixing colours. You need to think about colour combinations too. For example yellow and red become brown; yellow and blue a dark green, etc.
The proportion of dark colours is important, for example, as little as 2% of black can make the whole piece very dark. If you have dark colours, you need to add a large proportion of clear or very light opalescent glass.
If you use frit, large pieces are better than smaller ones. Even so, you need to be careful about the colours you use so the whole does not become muddy.
A good way to get strong colour separation is to put two colours on opposite sides and a third colour or clear between them. The two side colours will have best separation if they are not more than 1/3 each. As the glass begins to flow out of the pot, all three colours will come out at once and form concentric circles (assuming a circular hole in the pot).
 |
| Vertical stacking of multiple colours |
You can manipulate and alter the results with a fair amount of predictability by changing the diameter and shape of the hole, charging the pot with more than three colours or less, rearranging the orientation into a sunburst orientation or whatever comes to mind. Be sure to keep notes on what you did and what the results were in case you want to reproduce the effect.
Think about how the glass will flow out of the pot when you charge it with glass. If you layer colours horizontally from C (on top) to A (on bottom), it will initially flow out in colour A, then B, then C. After that initial flow, which will be on the outside of the finished piece, the main flow will be from the top (C), then the middle (B) and finally the bottom (A). This is because after the initial flow, the rest of the glass comes out in a funnel shape pulling the top and small portions of the underlying glass.
This means that layering is the best way of mixing colours. You need to think about colour combinations too. For example yellow and red become brown; yellow and blue a dark green, etc.
The proportion of dark colours is important, for example, as little as 2% of black can make the whole piece very dark. If you have dark colours, you need to add a large proportion of clear or very light opalescent glass.
If you use frit, large pieces are better than smaller ones. Even so, you need to be careful about the colours you use so the whole does not become muddy.
Tuesday 6 April 2010
Aperture Pours
The most commonly used aperture pours are Pot melts and wire melts. Pot melts use containers, and wire mesh for wire melts. In both cases they control the way the glass melts into a container or directly on the shelf below.
The materials are stainless steel wire grids, and unglazed terracotta pots. The spacing of the steel grid will determine the number of trails of glass falling. So a finer grid will give more points of expansion in the resulting melt. But will mix the colours much more thoroughly than a coarser mesh will.
Doing a pot melt usually provides a simpler pattern of flow. A single round hole gives one circular point from which the glass expands. A single rectangular hole gives a single ribbon shape as the expansion point. You can, of course, have multiple holes in the bottom of the pot to provide a more complex interaction of the flowing glass. The wider the rim of the pot in relation to its depth, the more flexible it will be. You can put more glass in the pot and you can have it higher in the kiln.
The arrangement of glass in the pot will produce different results. There are two basic arrangements: colours layered one above each other as in a layer cake; and colours arranged on end around the sides of the pot. When loading the pot you need to remember that although the glass immediately above the hole will be the first to come out – and therefore be at the edge of the melt – the remainder of the glass comes out in a funnel-like order, with the glass at the bottom corner of the pot being the last to flow out – and become the centre of the melt.
There is a relationship between the hole size and distance to surface that affects the final appearance. The larger the hole the less likely the glass is to spiral as it falls, so you need a greater distance between the bottom of the pot and the shelf. The smaller the hole, the less distance you need. Only experience will tell you what distance and size you need or can use.
You can calculate the amount of glass for different sizes by using this table. If you have a rectangular space you are dropping into, you can calculate the volume of glass by multiplying the width, length and desired thickness – all in centimetres. This will give the volume in cubic centimetres and to convert that into weight, you multiply the volume by the specific gravity of glass - 2.5 is near enough – to get the number of grams of glass required. To convert into kilograms, divide by 1000.
By dropping directly onto kiln washed shelf, ring or circular container you will get some contamination. There are some ways to avoid this given here.
You can also use this method to act as a crucible to pour glass into closed moulds.
 |
| Emptied pot melt |
 |
| Finished screen melt |
Doing a pot melt usually provides a simpler pattern of flow. A single round hole gives one circular point from which the glass expands. A single rectangular hole gives a single ribbon shape as the expansion point. You can, of course, have multiple holes in the bottom of the pot to provide a more complex interaction of the flowing glass. The wider the rim of the pot in relation to its depth, the more flexible it will be. You can put more glass in the pot and you can have it higher in the kiln.
The arrangement of glass in the pot will produce different results. There are two basic arrangements: colours layered one above each other as in a layer cake; and colours arranged on end around the sides of the pot. When loading the pot you need to remember that although the glass immediately above the hole will be the first to come out – and therefore be at the edge of the melt – the remainder of the glass comes out in a funnel-like order, with the glass at the bottom corner of the pot being the last to flow out – and become the centre of the melt.
There is a relationship between the hole size and distance to surface that affects the final appearance. The larger the hole the less likely the glass is to spiral as it falls, so you need a greater distance between the bottom of the pot and the shelf. The smaller the hole, the less distance you need. Only experience will tell you what distance and size you need or can use.
You can calculate the amount of glass for different sizes by using this table. If you have a rectangular space you are dropping into, you can calculate the volume of glass by multiplying the width, length and desired thickness – all in centimetres. This will give the volume in cubic centimetres and to convert that into weight, you multiply the volume by the specific gravity of glass - 2.5 is near enough – to get the number of grams of glass required. To convert into kilograms, divide by 1000.
By dropping directly onto kiln washed shelf, ring or circular container you will get some contamination. There are some ways to avoid this given here.
You can also use this method to act as a crucible to pour glass into closed moulds.
Thursday 18 March 2010
Pattern Scissors Usage
The purpose of pattern shears/scissors is to cut out the space between pattern pieces equivalent to the came heart or the space needed for foil.
The scissors come in two thicknesses – one for leaded and the thinner for copper foil.
If you must use them:Use in short cutting motions. Use only the first 50mm of the blades which are closest to the pivot point. Otherwise the paper jams in between the blades. It remains difficult to cut long straight lines without quickly having an “accordion” of paper blocking the cutting action.
Some suggestions to make things easier:
- Clean the blades regularly. If you are cutting anything with adhesives, clean the blades after each use with spirits.
- Often running a little soap along the blades helps to smooth the action of the blades.
- Use stiff high quality paper so you do not catch fibres in the scissors. Waxed paper or stencil card are good materials to use.
Organising pattern pieces.
- You have made a second and third copy of the cartoon haven’t you?
- Now that you have a lot of pieces what do you do with them?
- Mark any grain direction before you cut the pieces apart.
You need to code the pieces in some way.
- Numbering with reference to the main cartoon is most common.
- It is a good idea to colour code the pieces and if the surface will take it, a shading of the colour makes a quick visual reference.
Keeping the pieces together.
- Envelopes are easy to write on for colours, or areas such as borders, background, etc.
- Freezer bags that are transparent and have a band to write on are very good, as you can see the pieces without opening the bag.
- You need a labelled bag or container to keep all the envelopes together.
Alternatives to pattern scissors
- For copper foil, you can use normal scissors, by cutting to the inside of the pencil or inked line. - You can also use a scalpel or craft knife to cut to the insides of the marked lines.
- For leaded glass you can use a felt tip pen (a bullet point is almost exactly the right width when new). Cut with scissors or craft knife at the sides of the line.
Alternative to pattern piecesUse the European or trace cutting method as described here.
The scissors come in two thicknesses – one for leaded and the thinner for copper foil.
If you must use them:Use in short cutting motions. Use only the first 50mm of the blades which are closest to the pivot point. Otherwise the paper jams in between the blades. It remains difficult to cut long straight lines without quickly having an “accordion” of paper blocking the cutting action.
Some suggestions to make things easier:
- Clean the blades regularly. If you are cutting anything with adhesives, clean the blades after each use with spirits.
- Often running a little soap along the blades helps to smooth the action of the blades.
- Use stiff high quality paper so you do not catch fibres in the scissors. Waxed paper or stencil card are good materials to use.
Organising pattern pieces.
- You have made a second and third copy of the cartoon haven’t you?
- Now that you have a lot of pieces what do you do with them?
- Mark any grain direction before you cut the pieces apart.
You need to code the pieces in some way.
- Numbering with reference to the main cartoon is most common.
- It is a good idea to colour code the pieces and if the surface will take it, a shading of the colour makes a quick visual reference.
Keeping the pieces together.
- Envelopes are easy to write on for colours, or areas such as borders, background, etc.
- Freezer bags that are transparent and have a band to write on are very good, as you can see the pieces without opening the bag.
- You need a labelled bag or container to keep all the envelopes together.
Alternatives to pattern scissors
- For copper foil, you can use normal scissors, by cutting to the inside of the pencil or inked line. - You can also use a scalpel or craft knife to cut to the insides of the marked lines.
- For leaded glass you can use a felt tip pen (a bullet point is almost exactly the right width when new). Cut with scissors or craft knife at the sides of the line.
Alternative to pattern piecesUse the European or trace cutting method as described here.
Sunday 14 March 2010
Removing Stick-on Lead and Film
It is possible to do this. It is a labour intensive process. You do need to be careful to avoid scratching the glass.
Cut through a lead line and carefully rip away the lead tape, being careful to not pull so hard that you flex the centre of the glass and cause it to break. You will need considerable force. The bulk of the lead is probably positioned over the film, so bulk of the the glue residue from the lead tape will come off when the film is peeled away. With a spray bottle mist the glass with white spirit and scrub using a cloth. If the glue is especially resistant use a broad wallpaper scraper and cover it with the kerosene soaked cloth to scrape the glue off. Use vinyl or latex gloves.
However, the manufacturer comments that stained glass overlay is virtually impossible to remove. It is better to replace the glass. It will save time, expense and possible tears.
Cut through a lead line and carefully rip away the lead tape, being careful to not pull so hard that you flex the centre of the glass and cause it to break. You will need considerable force. The bulk of the lead is probably positioned over the film, so bulk of the the glue residue from the lead tape will come off when the film is peeled away. With a spray bottle mist the glass with white spirit and scrub using a cloth. If the glue is especially resistant use a broad wallpaper scraper and cover it with the kerosene soaked cloth to scrape the glue off. Use vinyl or latex gloves.
However, the manufacturer comments that stained glass overlay is virtually impossible to remove. It is better to replace the glass. It will save time, expense and possible tears.
Saturday 6 March 2010
Commissioning
Commissioning a stained glass window, screen or lamp involves entering into a contract with the designer/maker. It is therefore important that both client and maker know exactly what is involved.
· The price of the work should be established. The materials used in the making of a window, especially the glass itself, can be expensive and the possibility of commissioning a well-designed leaded light should not be ignored.
· The maker will need to know the budget for the work and will provide an estimate, and may require a down payment before beginning work and perhaps payment by instalments, depending upon the cost of the materials involved.
The designer will prepare a preliminary design, according to the client's brief.
· The design should indicate the nature of the construction and the position of any ferramenta or physical support.
· This design should be as detailed as possible. It may be accompanied by samples of the proposed glasses.
· The client must be prepared to recompense an artist for design(s) prepared according to a brief, whether or not it proceeds to execution.
· The copyright in all cases remains the property of the artist.
The arrangements for the execution of the commission must also be satisfactorily established, including those for installation. If necessary, the advice of an architect should be sought; for church commissions, the architect responsible for the church should be involved from the outset. If the window is to be sited in an exposed position or in an area where vandalism is known to be a problem, protective measures should be considered.
Also look at Commission Agreements
· The price of the work should be established. The materials used in the making of a window, especially the glass itself, can be expensive and the possibility of commissioning a well-designed leaded light should not be ignored.
· The maker will need to know the budget for the work and will provide an estimate, and may require a down payment before beginning work and perhaps payment by instalments, depending upon the cost of the materials involved.
The designer will prepare a preliminary design, according to the client's brief.
· The design should indicate the nature of the construction and the position of any ferramenta or physical support.
· This design should be as detailed as possible. It may be accompanied by samples of the proposed glasses.
· The client must be prepared to recompense an artist for design(s) prepared according to a brief, whether or not it proceeds to execution.
· The copyright in all cases remains the property of the artist.
The arrangements for the execution of the commission must also be satisfactorily established, including those for installation. If necessary, the advice of an architect should be sought; for church commissions, the architect responsible for the church should be involved from the outset. If the window is to be sited in an exposed position or in an area where vandalism is known to be a problem, protective measures should be considered.
Also look at Commission Agreements
Tuesday 2 March 2010
Effect of Plaster-Water Ratio on Some Properties
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/30
Setting time (min) 1.75
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm) 808
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1806
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/40
Setting time (min) 3.25
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)474
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1548
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/50
Setting time (min) 5.25
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)316
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1352
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/60
Setting time (min) 7.24
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)228
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1206
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/70
Setting time (min) 8.25
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)175
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1083
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/80
Setting time (min) 10.50
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)126
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 990
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/90
Setting time (min) 12.00
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)98
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 908
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/100
Setting time (min) 13.75
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm) 70
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 867
This table of relationships makes it clear that the less weight of water added to the plaster, the stronger the resulting mould will be. It also is clear that with less water, the setting time is reduced. So some compromise may be needed to be able to pour the mixture before it sets.
Setting time (min) 1.75
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm) 808
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1806
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/40
Setting time (min) 3.25
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)474
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1548
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/50
Setting time (min) 5.25
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)316
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1352
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/60
Setting time (min) 7.24
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)228
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1206
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/70
Setting time (min) 8.25
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)175
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 1083
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/80
Setting time (min) 10.50
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)126
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 990
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/90
Setting time (min) 12.00
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm)98
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 908
Plaster-water ratio (by weight) 100/100
Setting time (min) 13.75
Compression strength (kg/sq.cm) 70
Dry Density (kg/cu metre) 867
This table of relationships makes it clear that the less weight of water added to the plaster, the stronger the resulting mould will be. It also is clear that with less water, the setting time is reduced. So some compromise may be needed to be able to pour the mixture before it sets.
Saturday 27 February 2010
Properties of typical gypsum plasters and cements
Number 1 Pottery Plaster
% of water to dry mix by weight - 70%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1105 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.21%
Compressive strength - 126 kg./square centimeter
No. 1 Casting plaster% of water to dry mix by weight - 70%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1058 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.2%
Compressive strength - 140 kg./square centimeter
Plaster of Paris% of water to dry mix by weight - 70%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1105 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.2%
Compressive strength - 140 kg./square centimeter
Number 1 Casting Plaster% of water to dry mix by weight - 65%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1162 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.22%
Compressive strength - 168 kg./square centimeter
Pottery Plaster
% of water to dry mix by weight - 74%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1162 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.19%
Compressive strength - 126 kg./square centimeter
Hydrocal Cement
% of water to dry mix by weight - 45%
Set Time – 25 – 35 mins
Dry density – 1442 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.39%
Compressive strength – 35 kg./square centimeter
Hydroperm Cement% of water to dry mix by weight - 10%
Set Time – 12 -19 mins
Dry density –
<641 br="" cubic="" kg="" metre="">Expansion on setting – 0.14%
Compressive strength – 35 kg./square centimeter
Hydro-Stone cement
% of water to dry mix by weight - 32%
Set Time – 17 -20 mins
Dry density – 1913 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.24%
Compressive strength – 703 kg./square centimeter
Ultracal cement
% of water to dry mix by weight - 38%
Set Time – 25 - 35 mins
Dry density – 1568 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.08%
Compressive strength – 421 kg./square centimeter
% of water to dry mix by weight - 70%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1105 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.21%
Compressive strength - 126 kg./square centimeter
No. 1 Casting plaster% of water to dry mix by weight - 70%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1058 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.2%
Compressive strength - 140 kg./square centimeter
Plaster of Paris% of water to dry mix by weight - 70%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1105 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.2%
Compressive strength - 140 kg./square centimeter
Number 1 Casting Plaster% of water to dry mix by weight - 65%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1162 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.22%
Compressive strength - 168 kg./square centimeter
Pottery Plaster
% of water to dry mix by weight - 74%
Set Time – 27 – 37 mins
Dry density – 1162 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.19%
Compressive strength - 126 kg./square centimeter
Hydrocal Cement
% of water to dry mix by weight - 45%
Set Time – 25 – 35 mins
Dry density – 1442 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.39%
Compressive strength – 35 kg./square centimeter
Hydroperm Cement% of water to dry mix by weight - 10%
Set Time – 12 -19 mins
Dry density –
<641 br="" cubic="" kg="" metre="">Expansion on setting – 0.14%
Compressive strength – 35 kg./square centimeter
Hydro-Stone cement
% of water to dry mix by weight - 32%
Set Time – 17 -20 mins
Dry density – 1913 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.24%
Compressive strength – 703 kg./square centimeter
Ultracal cement
% of water to dry mix by weight - 38%
Set Time – 25 - 35 mins
Dry density – 1568 kg/cubic metre
Expansion on setting – 0.08%
Compressive strength – 421 kg./square centimeter
Tuesday 23 February 2010
Break Down Temperatures of Common Mould Constituents
Binders are essential parts of mould materials. They hold the refractory parts of the mould together. Selection is dependent on the temperature you will be using. This also is important in choosing the refractory material to use.
Gypsum plaster - 704C – 816C
Hydrocal cement - 704C – 816C
Hydroperm cement – 760C – 927C
Colloidal silica – 1260C
Colloidal alumina – 1260C
Calcium alumina cement (cement fondu) – 1538C
There are of course, many other factors to take into account when choosing binders and refractory materials for moulds.
Gypsum plaster - 704C – 816C
Hydrocal cement - 704C – 816C
Hydroperm cement – 760C – 927C
Colloidal silica – 1260C
Colloidal alumina – 1260C
Calcium alumina cement (cement fondu) – 1538C
There are of course, many other factors to take into account when choosing binders and refractory materials for moulds.
Friday 19 February 2010
Temperature Characteristics of Various Glasses
Over the years I have collected temperature information for a number of glasses. They are of comparative interest and can assist with choosing a temperature or range of temperatures for the work you are doing. If the work is important, or critical, refer to the manufacturer for the latest information.
Bullseye
There has been a lot of information published about this glass. One interesting characteristic has been the different temperatures for the complete range of glass they produce. So there appears to be a difference between the transparent, opalescent and gold pink glasses.
Transparent:
Full Fusing 832C ; Tack Fusing 777C ; Softening 677C ; Annealing 532C ; Strain 493C
Opalescent:
Full Fusing 843C ; Tack Fusing 788C ; Softening 688C ; Annealing 502C ; Strain 463C
Gold Bearing:
Full Fusing 788C ; Tack Fusing 732C ; Softening 635C ; Annealing 472C ; Strain 438C
This also illustrates that not all the characteristics of a glass range are linear. The most apparent one is that the full fusing, tack fusing and softening points of the opalescent glass are higher than transparent, although the annealing point is lower.
Desag GNA
Full Fusing 857C ; Tack Fusing 802C ; Softening 718C ; Annealing 516C ; Strain 427C
Float Glass
Full Fusing 835C ; Tack Fusing ca. 760C ; Softening 720C ; Annealing ca. 530C ; Strain 454
Spectrum S96
Full Fusing 788C ; Tack Fusing 718C ; Softening 677C ; Annealing 510C ; Strain 371C
Uroboros
Full Fusing 788C ; Tack Fusing 732C ; Softening 663C ; Annealing 538C ; Strain 427C
Although the information above may be dated, the important element is that there is little correlation between glasses in the relationship of annealing point to other characteristics of the glass.
This listing also shows that the temperature characteristics are not linear between glasses. For example, Spectrum and Uroboros have the same full fuse temperatures, but different tack fusing, softening, annealing and strain temperatures. Sometimes one is higher than the other, and other times it is reversed.
Another example is shown by the Desag GNA and Float glasses. Desag GNA has higher full fuse and tack fuse temperatures than float, but lower softening, annealing and strain temperatures. This helps to make the point that you need to know the glass you are using as it will not have a proportional relationship at every point in the kiln working temperature range.
I emphasise that these temperatures have been collected over a period and may not be the current or absolutely correct information. They are used here to illustrate the differences within and between the glasses of various manufacturers.
Bullseye
There has been a lot of information published about this glass. One interesting characteristic has been the different temperatures for the complete range of glass they produce. So there appears to be a difference between the transparent, opalescent and gold pink glasses.
Transparent:
Full Fusing 832C ; Tack Fusing 777C ; Softening 677C ; Annealing 532C ; Strain 493C
Opalescent:
Full Fusing 843C ; Tack Fusing 788C ; Softening 688C ; Annealing 502C ; Strain 463C
Gold Bearing:
Full Fusing 788C ; Tack Fusing 732C ; Softening 635C ; Annealing 472C ; Strain 438C
This also illustrates that not all the characteristics of a glass range are linear. The most apparent one is that the full fusing, tack fusing and softening points of the opalescent glass are higher than transparent, although the annealing point is lower.
Desag GNA
Full Fusing 857C ; Tack Fusing 802C ; Softening 718C ; Annealing 516C ; Strain 427C
Float Glass
Full Fusing 835C ; Tack Fusing ca. 760C ; Softening 720C ; Annealing ca. 530C ; Strain 454
Spectrum S96
Full Fusing 788C ; Tack Fusing 718C ; Softening 677C ; Annealing 510C ; Strain 371C
Uroboros
Full Fusing 788C ; Tack Fusing 732C ; Softening 663C ; Annealing 538C ; Strain 427C
Although the information above may be dated, the important element is that there is little correlation between glasses in the relationship of annealing point to other characteristics of the glass.
This listing also shows that the temperature characteristics are not linear between glasses. For example, Spectrum and Uroboros have the same full fuse temperatures, but different tack fusing, softening, annealing and strain temperatures. Sometimes one is higher than the other, and other times it is reversed.
Another example is shown by the Desag GNA and Float glasses. Desag GNA has higher full fuse and tack fuse temperatures than float, but lower softening, annealing and strain temperatures. This helps to make the point that you need to know the glass you are using as it will not have a proportional relationship at every point in the kiln working temperature range.
I emphasise that these temperatures have been collected over a period and may not be the current or absolutely correct information. They are used here to illustrate the differences within and between the glasses of various manufacturers.
Monday 15 February 2010
Mesh Sizes
Mesh and grit sizes are most often refered to by a number. This relates to the number of wires per inch - and in a subsidary fashion also to the size of the wire used to form the grid through which the material falls and so is sorted into various sizes. The table below gives some of these figures most useful for mould making - mesh number, percentage of open area, the wire diameters in mm, and the mesh opening or material size in mm.
No.12 ; % open 51.8 ; dia. 0.5842 ; size 1.5240
No.14 ; % open 51.0 ;dia. 0.5080 ; size 1.2954
No.20 ; % open 46.2 ; dia. 0.4064 ; size 0.8636
No.30 ; % open 37.1 ; dia. 0.3048 ; size 0.5156
No.40 ; % open 36.0 ; dia. 0.2286 ; size 0.3810
No.50 ; % open 30.3 ; dia. 0.1905 ; size 0.2794
No.60 ; % open 30.5 ; dia. 0.1397 ; size 0.2337
No.80 ; % open 31.4 ; dia. 0.1143 ; size 0.1778
No.100;% open 30.3 ; dia. 0.0940 ; size 0.1397
No.120; % open 30.7 ; dia. 0.0940 ; size 0.1168
No.200; % open 33.6 ; dia. 0.0533 ; size 0.0737
No.325;% open 30.0 ; dia. 0.0356 ; size 0.0432
No.12 ; % open 51.8 ; dia. 0.5842 ; size 1.5240
No.14 ; % open 51.0 ;dia. 0.5080 ; size 1.2954
No.20 ; % open 46.2 ; dia. 0.4064 ; size 0.8636
No.30 ; % open 37.1 ; dia. 0.3048 ; size 0.5156
No.40 ; % open 36.0 ; dia. 0.2286 ; size 0.3810
No.50 ; % open 30.3 ; dia. 0.1905 ; size 0.2794
No.60 ; % open 30.5 ; dia. 0.1397 ; size 0.2337
No.80 ; % open 31.4 ; dia. 0.1143 ; size 0.1778
No.100;% open 30.3 ; dia. 0.0940 ; size 0.1397
No.120; % open 30.7 ; dia. 0.0940 ; size 0.1168
No.200; % open 33.6 ; dia. 0.0533 ; size 0.0737
No.325;% open 30.0 ; dia. 0.0356 ; size 0.0432
Thursday 11 February 2010
Properties of Some Basic Glass Types
Various types of glass have differing properties which make them suitable for a variety of applications. Some of the characteristics of three glasses are given here. The glasses are quartz, soda/lime, and lead crystal.
Quartz glass
Softening point (C) 1508
Annealing point (C) 1048
Strain point (C) 956
CoE at 10-7 metres/degree C: 3.1
Density (kg/m3) 1973
Refractive index 1.459
Soda/Lime glass
Softening point (C) 693 - 732
Annealing point (C) 516 - 549
Strain point (C) 471 - 493
CoE at 10-7 metres/degree C: 56 - 100
Density (kg/m3) 2203 - 2275
Refractive index 1.51 – 1.52
Lead glass
Softening point (C) 438 - 671
Annealing point (C) 366 - 527
Strain point (C) 343 - 449
CoE at 10-7 metres/degree C: 47 - 55
Density (kg/m3) 2505 - 4867
Refractive index 1.54 – 1.75
Quartz glass
Softening point (C) 1508
Annealing point (C) 1048
Strain point (C) 956
CoE at 10-7 metres/degree C: 3.1
Density (kg/m3) 1973
Refractive index 1.459
Soda/Lime glass
Softening point (C) 693 - 732
Annealing point (C) 516 - 549
Strain point (C) 471 - 493
CoE at 10-7 metres/degree C: 56 - 100
Density (kg/m3) 2203 - 2275
Refractive index 1.51 – 1.52
Lead glass
Softening point (C) 438 - 671
Annealing point (C) 366 - 527
Strain point (C) 343 - 449
CoE at 10-7 metres/degree C: 47 - 55
Density (kg/m3) 2505 - 4867
Refractive index 1.54 – 1.75
Friday 15 January 2010
Creating a Quality Solder Joint
Soldering is the process that uses solder (a metal alloy usually consisting of tin mixed with other metals) for the metallurgical joining of metal components to form an electrical, mechanical or hermetically sealed bond at temperatures (less than 449°C) that are well below the melting temperature of the individual components that are being joined. The soldering equipment (used to create the required heat) and other materials (solder, fluxes, heat sinks, fixtures, etc.) should always be properly matched to the intended soldering application. The equipment and materials used may vary, but the basic soldering techniques that are required will usually remain the same.
One of the most important rules to remember about soldering is "keep it clean". This includes, not only the items being soldered, but also the materials used. Choose quality solders and fluxes without unnecessary impurities. Surface oxidation, contaminants and other impurities are some of the most common reasons for poor quality solder joints. The use of fluxes does not eliminate the need for pre-cleaning the surfaces you are joining, especially if heavy oxidation or large amounts of grease, oil or dirt are present.
1. Clean: Thoroughly clean all surfaces to be joined, removing any dirt, grease, oil, oxidation, paint, coatings or other impurities that may exist before attempting to solder. Proper wetting can only occur when the intended solder joint area has been properly cleaned. Soldering should be performed as soon as possible after cleaning to eliminate the possibility of re oxidation or contamination of the items being soldered. [So leaving pieces fluxed overnight is not good practice. Flux only the area that can be soldered in the next few minutes.]
2. Flux: Apply flux sparingly to each of the intended joint surfaces. Flux is primarily used for the removal of light oxidation and to protect against re-oxidation during the actual soldering process. Make sure you have the right flux for the application being performed.
3. Heat: Apply heat directly to the intended joint area. The correct application of heat is important and should be consistent with the operating requirements determined by the type of equipment being used. Fast and accurate heating will minimize the risk of thermal damage.
4. Solder: Add solder to the heated surfaces you are joining (do not apply solder directly to the tip, or other heat source being used). The solder should flow uniformly over all of the surfaces that are being connected. Stop feeding solder as soon as you have applied an adequate amount and then remove the heat source. The amount of solder is important because too much will create unnecessary waste, while too little can affect the mechanical strength and conductivity of the finished solder joint.
5. Cool: Allow the finished solder joint to remain undisturbed until it has completely cooled. You should never attempt to speed up the cooling process by blowing on the solder joint. Even minor vibrations or disturbances during cooling, can cause micro fractures or other types of damage that may severely weaken the solder joint.
6. Inspect: Check all finished joints for proper wetting, the right amount of solder, a good physical appearance, and the required mechanical strength.
SkillsA quality solder joint is not achieved solely by the equipment and techniques being used, but also by the operator being trained to use them properly. An operator should know how the physical appearance of a finished solder joint helps to determine possible flaws that may exist.
A quality solder joint appears bright, shiny and smooth with all components appearing well soldered. The surface of a finished connection should never look rough, grainy, dull, or flaky (these are signs of what is commonly referred to as a cold solder joint). Problems with proper wetting (solder balling up and not adhering to the components surface) are sometimes associated with too much heat, but are more often related to cleanliness issues.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
One of the most important rules to remember about soldering is "keep it clean". This includes, not only the items being soldered, but also the materials used. Choose quality solders and fluxes without unnecessary impurities. Surface oxidation, contaminants and other impurities are some of the most common reasons for poor quality solder joints. The use of fluxes does not eliminate the need for pre-cleaning the surfaces you are joining, especially if heavy oxidation or large amounts of grease, oil or dirt are present.
1. Clean: Thoroughly clean all surfaces to be joined, removing any dirt, grease, oil, oxidation, paint, coatings or other impurities that may exist before attempting to solder. Proper wetting can only occur when the intended solder joint area has been properly cleaned. Soldering should be performed as soon as possible after cleaning to eliminate the possibility of re oxidation or contamination of the items being soldered. [So leaving pieces fluxed overnight is not good practice. Flux only the area that can be soldered in the next few minutes.]
2. Flux: Apply flux sparingly to each of the intended joint surfaces. Flux is primarily used for the removal of light oxidation and to protect against re-oxidation during the actual soldering process. Make sure you have the right flux for the application being performed.
3. Heat: Apply heat directly to the intended joint area. The correct application of heat is important and should be consistent with the operating requirements determined by the type of equipment being used. Fast and accurate heating will minimize the risk of thermal damage.
4. Solder: Add solder to the heated surfaces you are joining (do not apply solder directly to the tip, or other heat source being used). The solder should flow uniformly over all of the surfaces that are being connected. Stop feeding solder as soon as you have applied an adequate amount and then remove the heat source. The amount of solder is important because too much will create unnecessary waste, while too little can affect the mechanical strength and conductivity of the finished solder joint.
5. Cool: Allow the finished solder joint to remain undisturbed until it has completely cooled. You should never attempt to speed up the cooling process by blowing on the solder joint. Even minor vibrations or disturbances during cooling, can cause micro fractures or other types of damage that may severely weaken the solder joint.
6. Inspect: Check all finished joints for proper wetting, the right amount of solder, a good physical appearance, and the required mechanical strength.
SkillsA quality solder joint is not achieved solely by the equipment and techniques being used, but also by the operator being trained to use them properly. An operator should know how the physical appearance of a finished solder joint helps to determine possible flaws that may exist.
A quality solder joint appears bright, shiny and smooth with all components appearing well soldered. The surface of a finished connection should never look rough, grainy, dull, or flaky (these are signs of what is commonly referred to as a cold solder joint). Problems with proper wetting (solder balling up and not adhering to the components surface) are sometimes associated with too much heat, but are more often related to cleanliness issues.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Tuesday 12 January 2010
Soldering Ingredients and Methods
The soldering process may be accomplished in a wide variety of ways, but the four primary ingredients required will remain the same. They are; the base metal (or metal items being joined) a type of flux (or a method of cleaning and maintaining the surface to be soldered), the solder and a source of heat. It is important to match the soldering method and the equipment that will be used, to the soldering application that is being considered.
Base MetalThe base metal is the metal that is in contact with the solder and forms an intermediate alloy. There are many metals that will react willingly with solders to form a strong chemical and physical bond, while others can be very difficult, or even impossible to solder.
Flux
Flux is used to eliminate minor surface oxidation and to prevent further oxidation of the base metals surface during the heating process. Although there are many types of flux, each will include two basic parts, chemicals and solvents. The chemical includes the active portion, while the solvent is actually the carrying agent. It is the solvent that determines the cleaning method required to remove the remaining residue after soldering.
Solder
Solder is the alloy used to create the solvent action, which generates the bond between the base metals. The type and form of the solder is very important and must be determined by the individual application being performed, as well as the base metals and soldering method being employed.
Methods
There are several methods, as well as a wide variety of tools available to perform the task of soldering. Some of the current methods that are available include induction, conduction, ultrasonic, flame, dipping, resistance, oven and wave soldering. Some of these methods involve the use of small inexpensive hand tools, while others may require large and expensive machinery, equipment and tools. It is a good idea to become educated on the various methods and tools that are available, in order to insure that you are utilizing the best, safest, most efficient and economical means available for your specific soldering application.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Base MetalThe base metal is the metal that is in contact with the solder and forms an intermediate alloy. There are many metals that will react willingly with solders to form a strong chemical and physical bond, while others can be very difficult, or even impossible to solder.
Flux
Flux is used to eliminate minor surface oxidation and to prevent further oxidation of the base metals surface during the heating process. Although there are many types of flux, each will include two basic parts, chemicals and solvents. The chemical includes the active portion, while the solvent is actually the carrying agent. It is the solvent that determines the cleaning method required to remove the remaining residue after soldering.
Solder
Solder is the alloy used to create the solvent action, which generates the bond between the base metals. The type and form of the solder is very important and must be determined by the individual application being performed, as well as the base metals and soldering method being employed.
Methods
There are several methods, as well as a wide variety of tools available to perform the task of soldering. Some of the current methods that are available include induction, conduction, ultrasonic, flame, dipping, resistance, oven and wave soldering. Some of these methods involve the use of small inexpensive hand tools, while others may require large and expensive machinery, equipment and tools. It is a good idea to become educated on the various methods and tools that are available, in order to insure that you are utilizing the best, safest, most efficient and economical means available for your specific soldering application.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Saturday 9 January 2010
Soldering vs. Welding
The metal joining process that is generally referred to as soldering (or soft soldering) requires temperatures between 183 to 445°C. The joining of metals at temperatures above 445°C (and below the melting point of the metals being joined) is more commonly referred to as brazing (or hard soldering). The actual melting and fusing of the metal items that are being joined together is considered welding. There are, of course overlapping situations that may occur when classifying a process.
The actual joining characteristics that take place are physically different in each of these processes. Soft solders attach to metals by what is referred to as a solvent action that takes place at relatively low temperatures. Hard solders, or brazing alloys contain metals that require higher temperatures to cause the solvent action to take place and fuse the alloy with the metal being joined. Because welding involves actually melting and fusing the surface of the metals that are being joined together, a filler, or fusible material is not always used.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
The actual joining characteristics that take place are physically different in each of these processes. Soft solders attach to metals by what is referred to as a solvent action that takes place at relatively low temperatures. Hard solders, or brazing alloys contain metals that require higher temperatures to cause the solvent action to take place and fuse the alloy with the metal being joined. Because welding involves actually melting and fusing the surface of the metals that are being joined together, a filler, or fusible material is not always used.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Wednesday 6 January 2010
Soldering - how it works
Soldering is a well known and widely used process where two or more metal items are joined together using a fusible alloy with a melting temperature that is lower than their own. The most commonly used solder is a fusible alloy consisting essentially of a tin and lead mixture.
The solder actually dissolves a small amount of the metal’s surface, at a temperature that is well below its melting point and joins with it. It is this solvent action of the solder alloy that causes it to fuse with and attach to the surface of the metal items being joined.
The solvent action that takes place, between the solder and the metal, makes the joint chemical (not just physical) in nature and causes the properties of the joint to differ from the original solder’s properties and from those of the surface of the metal items being joined. When metal parts are joined by solder, a metallic continuity is established as a result of the interfaces where the solder is bonded to the metallic surfaces.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
The solder actually dissolves a small amount of the metal’s surface, at a temperature that is well below its melting point and joins with it. It is this solvent action of the solder alloy that causes it to fuse with and attach to the surface of the metal items being joined.
The solvent action that takes place, between the solder and the metal, makes the joint chemical (not just physical) in nature and causes the properties of the joint to differ from the original solder’s properties and from those of the surface of the metal items being joined. When metal parts are joined by solder, a metallic continuity is established as a result of the interfaces where the solder is bonded to the metallic surfaces.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Sunday 3 January 2010
Maintenance of Soldering Bits -Periodic Cleaning
It is important to periodically clean the shank of the plug style bits as well as the inner surface of the element. This is done to keep the bit from seizing in the element and also to keep from building a layer of oxides and contaminates that would obstruct the transfer of heat from the element to the bit. After allowing the iron to completely cool the bit should be removed and the bit shank and inner walls of the element should be wiped clean with a mildly abrasive emery cloth or soft wire brush. This cleaning process should be done as often as needed, depending on the work environment, but not less than once a week.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Wednesday 30 December 2009
Soldering Bit Maintenance - Wiping the Bit
During use a bright, thin, but evenly tinned surface must be maintained on the working portion of the bit. Oxidation and contaminants must be continually removed from the bit surface to achieve maximum performance. This will help to ensure the proper transfer of heat from bit to work and will eliminate the possibility of impurities being transferred into the solder joint.
Between each solder application simply wipe the working area of the bit clean on a damp cellulose sponge to remove the dross and oxides that will accumulate and add small amounts of fresh solder to the bit as needed. A gentle wiping is all that is required and care must be taken not to over wipe the bit, because oxidation will occur on the surface quite rapidly if all of the solder has been removed. Once this oxidation occurs it becomes difficult, or even impossible for solder to wet to the bit. It then becomes necessary to properly clean and re-tin the bit in order to regain the appropriate wetting action required for adequate performance. When you have finished the soldering application, you should wipe any contaminates from the bits surface and add a small amount of fresh solder to it before allowing the iron to cool. This layer of solder ensures protection from oxidation of the bit between uses and will help to extend the bits working life.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Between each solder application simply wipe the working area of the bit clean on a damp cellulose sponge to remove the dross and oxides that will accumulate and add small amounts of fresh solder to the bit as needed. A gentle wiping is all that is required and care must be taken not to over wipe the bit, because oxidation will occur on the surface quite rapidly if all of the solder has been removed. Once this oxidation occurs it becomes difficult, or even impossible for solder to wet to the bit. It then becomes necessary to properly clean and re-tin the bit in order to regain the appropriate wetting action required for adequate performance. When you have finished the soldering application, you should wipe any contaminates from the bits surface and add a small amount of fresh solder to it before allowing the iron to cool. This layer of solder ensures protection from oxidation of the bit between uses and will help to extend the bits working life.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Sunday 27 December 2009
Soldering Bit Maintenance - Tinning
Introduction
Proper care and maintenance of your soldering iron bit involves tinning, wiping (and wetting) and also periodic cleaning of the bits shank. These actions are very important and quite simple to perform, but are often neglected. When performed properly they will not only ensure the longest possible working life for your soldering iron bits, but they will also have positive effects on the overall performance of your soldering iron.
TinningTinning may not be necessary if the bit you are using is new and arrives pre-tinned from the manufacturer, or has been used previously and been properly maintained. When a bit does need to be tinned (or re-tinned) it must be clean and free of any surface oxidation before it will accept any solder. Once the bit is properly tinned, care should be taken to prevent bit de-wetting by occasionally cleaning and adding small amounts of fresh solder, especially if the bit is being subjected to long periods of inactivity or idling.
If the bit to be tinned is un-plated copper it should be cleaned and dressed with a single cut, flat file. After filing the bit it should be heated in the iron. When the bit reaches the lowest temperature required to melt solder, a rosin core solder should be fed onto the bit. Do not allow the iron temperature to rise too high before applying the solder, because excess heat will cause the bit surface to re-oxidize and no longer accept the solder.
If the bit is plated it should never be filed, or heavily abraded. Care should be taken to ensure the plating is not damaged or removed, as this will shorten the working life of the bit dramatically. When pre-cleaning is necessary for plated bits, they should be cleaned with a mildly abrasive emery cloth and may require an acid flux to remove the oxides before tinning, or re-tinning.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Proper care and maintenance of your soldering iron bit involves tinning, wiping (and wetting) and also periodic cleaning of the bits shank. These actions are very important and quite simple to perform, but are often neglected. When performed properly they will not only ensure the longest possible working life for your soldering iron bits, but they will also have positive effects on the overall performance of your soldering iron.
TinningTinning may not be necessary if the bit you are using is new and arrives pre-tinned from the manufacturer, or has been used previously and been properly maintained. When a bit does need to be tinned (or re-tinned) it must be clean and free of any surface oxidation before it will accept any solder. Once the bit is properly tinned, care should be taken to prevent bit de-wetting by occasionally cleaning and adding small amounts of fresh solder, especially if the bit is being subjected to long periods of inactivity or idling.
If the bit to be tinned is un-plated copper it should be cleaned and dressed with a single cut, flat file. After filing the bit it should be heated in the iron. When the bit reaches the lowest temperature required to melt solder, a rosin core solder should be fed onto the bit. Do not allow the iron temperature to rise too high before applying the solder, because excess heat will cause the bit surface to re-oxidize and no longer accept the solder.
If the bit is plated it should never be filed, or heavily abraded. Care should be taken to ensure the plating is not damaged or removed, as this will shorten the working life of the bit dramatically. When pre-cleaning is necessary for plated bits, they should be cleaned with a mildly abrasive emery cloth and may require an acid flux to remove the oxides before tinning, or re-tinning.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Wednesday 23 December 2009
Soldering Bit Maintenance - Summary
If a bit has not been properly tinned, solder will not wet to it. Without solder on the bit heat transfer from the bit to the work surface may become extremely difficult and time consuming, or even impossible.
You must understand that proper wiping and continuous wetting is important and a lot easier than continually having to clean and re-tin the bit, especially at the risk of damage to the plated surface because of accidentally scratching, or over abrading it.
When you notice that an iron is not performing as well as it did when it was new you will find that poor thermal transfer from the element to the work is usually the cause. Improper care and maintenance and the lack of a periodic cleaning of the bits shank can cause a layer of oxides, which will inhibit the transfer of heat through the bit. Always ensure plug style bits are properly seated into the elements before heating the iron. If a bit is not inserted fully into the element there may be a gap behind the bit. This gap can cause a hot spot within the element causing a premature failure of the soldering iron.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
You must understand that proper wiping and continuous wetting is important and a lot easier than continually having to clean and re-tin the bit, especially at the risk of damage to the plated surface because of accidentally scratching, or over abrading it.
When you notice that an iron is not performing as well as it did when it was new you will find that poor thermal transfer from the element to the work is usually the cause. Improper care and maintenance and the lack of a periodic cleaning of the bits shank can cause a layer of oxides, which will inhibit the transfer of heat through the bit. Always ensure plug style bits are properly seated into the elements before heating the iron. If a bit is not inserted fully into the element there may be a gap behind the bit. This gap can cause a hot spot within the element causing a premature failure of the soldering iron.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Sunday 20 December 2009
Choosing the Soldering Bit
An important consideration, when choosing the most appropriate bit, is that thick, short bits will store more heat and deliver it more efficiently than long, narrow ones. This makes the standard chisel configuration the usual bit of choice. The chisel shaped bit is often used for joining flat seems together. The working edge of the chisel bit should be about the same width as (or slightly wider than) the seam that is being soldered.
Usually a solder connection is made in one to three seconds. If the connection takes longer than three seconds, you may need a larger bit, a higher wattage iron or a completely different type of soldering equipment altogether. It is a good idea to familiarize yourself with other soldering methods and equipment that are available in order to ensure that you are utilizing the best, safest, most efficient and economical means available to perform your soldering application.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Usually a solder connection is made in one to three seconds. If the connection takes longer than three seconds, you may need a larger bit, a higher wattage iron or a completely different type of soldering equipment altogether. It is a good idea to familiarize yourself with other soldering methods and equipment that are available in order to ensure that you are utilizing the best, safest, most efficient and economical means available to perform your soldering application.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Thursday 17 December 2009
Soldering Bits
Type
The bit type is determined by the soldering iron it is used on. There are screw type bits (bits that screw onto, or into the solder iron element), slip on bits that slip over the element and plug type bits that slide inside of the element. There are even bits that are a permanent part of a replaceable element/bit assembly. Regardless of the type of bits required it is always important to have them fully seated to the element and periodically cleaned, in order to maintain proper heat transfer from the element into the bit.
ConfigurationThe bit configuration to use should be determined by the intended application requirements. Some of the basic bit configurations available include ballpoint, conical, diamond (pyramid), chisel, and spade. You will find that there are usually a variety of styles, or modifications available, within each of these basic configuration families, to accommodate specific application requirements. Although less efficient, a more narrow configuration is sometimes required to obtain accessibility, or to achieve the desired results.
SizeThe bit size to use (regarding the working portion) should also be determined by the intended application requirements. The bit body, or shank must be matched to the iron it will be used with (always select a bit that was designed, or approved for the soldering iron you intend to use on the application being considered). As with bit configuration though, there are usually a variety of modified working diameters available within each family of standard bit sizes that are available. These modified bits are generally referred to as turned down bits, because the working area of the bit has been turned down to a smaller diameter than the body, or shank diameter. Turned down bits are not as efficient, but are sometimes required to solder in otherwise inaccessible areas.
Courtesy American Beauty Tools
The bit type is determined by the soldering iron it is used on. There are screw type bits (bits that screw onto, or into the solder iron element), slip on bits that slip over the element and plug type bits that slide inside of the element. There are even bits that are a permanent part of a replaceable element/bit assembly. Regardless of the type of bits required it is always important to have them fully seated to the element and periodically cleaned, in order to maintain proper heat transfer from the element into the bit.
ConfigurationThe bit configuration to use should be determined by the intended application requirements. Some of the basic bit configurations available include ballpoint, conical, diamond (pyramid), chisel, and spade. You will find that there are usually a variety of styles, or modifications available, within each of these basic configuration families, to accommodate specific application requirements. Although less efficient, a more narrow configuration is sometimes required to obtain accessibility, or to achieve the desired results.
SizeThe bit size to use (regarding the working portion) should also be determined by the intended application requirements. The bit body, or shank must be matched to the iron it will be used with (always select a bit that was designed, or approved for the soldering iron you intend to use on the application being considered). As with bit configuration though, there are usually a variety of modified working diameters available within each family of standard bit sizes that are available. These modified bits are generally referred to as turned down bits, because the working area of the bit has been turned down to a smaller diameter than the body, or shank diameter. Turned down bits are not as efficient, but are sometimes required to solder in otherwise inaccessible areas.
Courtesy American Beauty Tools
Monday 14 December 2009
Tack Soldering
Tack soldering is the placing of a small amount of solder on the foil to hold two or more pieces together, so the main soldering can be performed without disturbing any placing of the remaining pieces.
The advantage of tack soldering is it can allow you to completely eliminate framing. You can just hold two pieces together with one hand and spot a dab of solder to hold them together. You don't have to do this for all pieces - just enough of the outside pieces to hold the whole project together. Once you've tack soldered, everything will be held in place and you can just run the beads without further considering the placing of the pieces.
For free form shapes, tack soldering is always quicker. You may want to use nails or tacks to hold all the glass in place while you tack solder.
With big foil projects or ones that have to fit into a predetermined dimension, tack soldering ensures there is no growth through movement of the pieces.
It's a quick way to avoid having to fiddle with each piece to make sure each is exactly lined up before starting with the running of the beads.
The advantage of tack soldering is it can allow you to completely eliminate framing. You can just hold two pieces together with one hand and spot a dab of solder to hold them together. You don't have to do this for all pieces - just enough of the outside pieces to hold the whole project together. Once you've tack soldered, everything will be held in place and you can just run the beads without further considering the placing of the pieces.
For free form shapes, tack soldering is always quicker. You may want to use nails or tacks to hold all the glass in place while you tack solder.
With big foil projects or ones that have to fit into a predetermined dimension, tack soldering ensures there is no growth through movement of the pieces.
It's a quick way to avoid having to fiddle with each piece to make sure each is exactly lined up before starting with the running of the beads.
Friday 11 December 2009
Soldering Bit Composition
Most bits are made of copper, which is suitable because of its excellent thermal conductivity and high heat content per volume. Some bits are plain copper, while others incorporate various additives or have a protective plating applied.
One of the most common problems associated with plain copper bits, is that tin-lead alloys (more specifically the tin in the alloy) will attack the copper, dissolving it away. This makes it necessary to continually file the bits to maintain the required shape, giving these bits a shortened working life. Another concern is the amount of impurity that is imparted to the solder joint when using bare copper bits.
Adding tellurium to the copper improves both wear and oxidation resistance, but does not protect the tip from rapid deterioration. It has been determined that both iron and nickel, despite their low conductivity, are wettable, offer a high level of resistance to erosion and their heat per volume is close to that of copper.
Because of these facts it is possible to maintain good conductivity, while increasing the erosion resistance by plating copper bits with either nickel or iron. These plated bits are generally referred to as nickel-clad, or iron-clad and make up a large majority of the bits in use for modern soldering applications.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
One of the most common problems associated with plain copper bits, is that tin-lead alloys (more specifically the tin in the alloy) will attack the copper, dissolving it away. This makes it necessary to continually file the bits to maintain the required shape, giving these bits a shortened working life. Another concern is the amount of impurity that is imparted to the solder joint when using bare copper bits.
Adding tellurium to the copper improves both wear and oxidation resistance, but does not protect the tip from rapid deterioration. It has been determined that both iron and nickel, despite their low conductivity, are wettable, offer a high level of resistance to erosion and their heat per volume is close to that of copper.
Because of these facts it is possible to maintain good conductivity, while increasing the erosion resistance by plating copper bits with either nickel or iron. These plated bits are generally referred to as nickel-clad, or iron-clad and make up a large majority of the bits in use for modern soldering applications.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Tuesday 8 December 2009
Even Solder Beads on Edges
Running an even bead on the edges of copper foiled projects is often difficult. Several things can help.
Hold the panel vertically and ensure the edge you are applying solder to is horizontal. This means that you have to keep moving anything that is not rectangular.
To apply solder and move the piece ideally needs three hands – one for the solder, one for the iron, and one to manipulate the piece. Failing such an evolutionary leap, you can use a small vice to continually alter the angle of the edge, you can get a friend or colleague to manipulate the panel, or you can place the solder so that you can pick up little drops of solder and place them on the edge. With practice, you can pick up some solder and transfer it to the edge before the previous dot of solder has cooled, so leaving a smooth bead by the joining of the dots.
Alternatively, you can place dots of solder near each other around the piece. You then come back and with one hand manipulating the piece the other can use the solderimg iron to heat and join the dots.
You do have to be careful that you do not move the panel before the solder has hardened, or it will run down the newly created slope to the new horizontal edge.
I find that it is much more difficult to run a bead on an edge than it is to “pat” the solder dots. This patting motion allows the solder to join together, but does not heat such a long line that it flows as you turn the piece to keep the edge currently being soldered horizontal.
Hold the panel vertically and ensure the edge you are applying solder to is horizontal. This means that you have to keep moving anything that is not rectangular.
To apply solder and move the piece ideally needs three hands – one for the solder, one for the iron, and one to manipulate the piece. Failing such an evolutionary leap, you can use a small vice to continually alter the angle of the edge, you can get a friend or colleague to manipulate the panel, or you can place the solder so that you can pick up little drops of solder and place them on the edge. With practice, you can pick up some solder and transfer it to the edge before the previous dot of solder has cooled, so leaving a smooth bead by the joining of the dots.
Alternatively, you can place dots of solder near each other around the piece. You then come back and with one hand manipulating the piece the other can use the solderimg iron to heat and join the dots.
You do have to be careful that you do not move the panel before the solder has hardened, or it will run down the newly created slope to the new horizontal edge.
I find that it is much more difficult to run a bead on an edge than it is to “pat” the solder dots. This patting motion allows the solder to join together, but does not heat such a long line that it flows as you turn the piece to keep the edge currently being soldered horizontal.
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