Aperture Drops Blank Sizes

As the glass drops through the aperture, it stretches, but the whole substance of the piece is drawn toward the hole. If there is not enough spare glass around the hole, the whole piece will be drawn through the aperture.

There is a minimum size of the glass in relation to the size of the drop out hole. Up to some maximum size, the greater the diameter of the hole the greater the amount of spare glass there needs to be.

Also relevant is the depth of the drop. A shallow drop needs only a few centimetres larger than the hole. While a deeper drop needs a greater amount of glass surrounding the hole.

I have found that for a 300mm diameter hole, with a 150mm drop the glass needs to be 35mm larger all around. Thus an aperture of 300mm needs to be at least of 370mm diameter for this 150mm drop. I have done drops with 550mm diameters with only a 650mm diameter blank. This indicates to me that there is an amount of spare glass that will be sufficient even for larger diameter drops, but I have not found it yet. For a large drop with an aperture of 500mm and a depth of 350mm, I used a 100mm margin, giving a disc of 700mm which successfully dropped with the rim moving only about 20mm.    An 80cm/31.5” diameter aperture with a drop of 35cm/ca.13.8” needs a rim of 10cm making a blank a diameter of 100cm./39.4”.

One element that can reduce the size of the blank is to make an inclined collar around the aperture of the drop mould.  This idea is based on the observation that as the glass begins to fall through the aperture, the outer edges of the glass rise from the mould surface so the glass is resting only on the inner edge of the drop out mould. 

This inclined drop out mould will be like a shallow bowl rim, but without a bottom. The glass blank then rests with only its outer edge on the collar.  When the temperature increases to the point that the glass begins to slump, the glass will conform to the slope and so create enough friction to restrict the glass from falling through the aperture, although it is with a smaller than normal rim.  The actual size of the rim for each size and depth will need to be determined by experience. 

More information can be found here

Revised 22.11.24

Aperture Drops Finishing

After the piece has cooled and been removed from its ring, you can consider how to finish the piece.  The first decision is whether to retain or remove the rim from the vessel. In some cases, the rim can be retained as an integral part of the piece and there is little work needed to finish the piece.  Possibly only tidying up the edge of the rim and cleaning the bottom.

Removing the rim

But for most aperture drops and for most people, it is desirable to remove the rim. To have successful drops without rims, you most often need to have access to cutting and polishing equipment.  There are several ways to do this. 

The method that uses least equipment is to score around the upside down drop just above the rim.  When scored, tap the rim with a soft hammer to release it.  This is not always an even break and sometimes runs into the length of the drop.

A low tech way of cutting is to put a diamond cutting blade on a Dremel-like battery powered tool and with a flow of water grind through the side of the drop.  It is best to have a small flow of water directed at the cutting area, rather than immersing the rim in a bath of water.  This helps avoid electrical shock.

The rim can be cut off in portions with a tile saw, cutting quarters, eighths, sixteenths off the rim, approaching the edge of the drop.  Those with adjustable height wet saws can cut through small portions at a time of the rim, and support both the rim and the drop, especially when nearing the completion of the cuts.

There are also specialised versions of the wet angle grinder that make cutting of the rim easy and much more certain of a good result.

Finishing

After any of these methods of removing the rim, the drop edge, and possibly bottom, needs to be ground and polished.  Fire polishing is not possible as the drop would collapse long before the rim was smooth.

Because the rim will be relatively thin, it is possible to grind and polish with hand pads.  However, it is quicker to use a flat lap or linisher with a succession of finer grits to grind and polish an edge.  HIS Glassworks has a series of videos and this one gives good information on the methods and progression of grits to get to a polished edge whether by machine or by hand.