Sunday, 27 August 2023
CoE as the Determinant of Temperature Characteristics
Saturday, 6 May 2023
Re-firing
Kind of glass
Temperature
Slumping
Testing
Wednesday, 23 November 2022
Effect of AFAP Rates
This graph illustrates the effect of a rapid increase
(500C/hr) in temperature on the glass.
The blue line represents the air temperature measured in the kiln. The orange line represents the temperature
between the glass and the shelf. At an
air temperature of 815°C, the temperature of the glass at its bottom is around
750°C. This is a large difference, even
though the glass is in the plastic range.
It means that the potential for stress induced by the firing rate is
large. The graph shows the temperature
difference evens out during the annealing soak.
As an example, I took a piece out at 68°C to put another in. During the time the kiln was open, the air temperature dropped to 21°C. I filled the kiln and closed the lid and idly watched the temperature climb before switching the kiln on for another firing. It took a bit more than two minutes for the thermocouple to reach 54°C with the eventual stable temperature being 58°C. I had not been aware how long it takes the thermocouple to react to the change in temperature. Yes, it takes a little time for the air temperature in the kiln to equalise with the mass of the kiln, but not two minutes.
Wednesday, 2 November 2022
Making Test Tiles
Creating samples or tests provides both references on firing profiles and knowledge of the characteristics of the kiln.
General samples
Of course, these tiles must be labelled with glass types and code numbers and the temperature used. This is not all the information required though.
Specific samples
Sample making gives confidence in preparing work for the
kiln and scheduling to get the desired profile.
Wednesday, 5 October 2022
Making Circles from Fused Squares
Dennis Brady has done a lot of work on predicting the size of circles resulting from stacking squares of glass and taking them to full fuse for enough time to allow flattening of the stacks. This may be up to half an hour at 815°C for Bullseye. Some observation will be required.
Stacks of 12mm/ 0.5" squares arranged at 45° to each other and taken to a full fuse:
- 1 layer should produce a 10mm/ 0.375" circle
- 2 layers should produce a 12mm/0.5" circle
- 3 layers should produce a 16mm/0.6" circle
- 4 layers should produce a 18mm/0.7" circle
- 1 and 2 layers will not fully round
- 3 layers should produce a 28mm/1.1" circle
- 4 layers should produce a 40mm/1.6" circle
- 5 layers should produce a 45mm/1.75" circle
- 6 layers should produce a 50mm/2" circle
- 4 layers should produce a 48mm/1.9" circle
- 5 layers should produce a 52mm/2" circle
- 6 layers should produce a 58mm/2.3" circle
- 4 layers should produce a 40mm/1.6" circle
- 5 layers should produce a 45mm/1.8" circle
- 6 layers should produce a 50mm/2" circle
- 4 layers should produce a 75mm/3" circle
- 5 layers should produce a 85mm/3.3" circle
- 6 layers should produce a 95mm/3.75" circle
- 7 layers should produce a 102mm/4" circle
- 8 layers should produce a 105mm/4.125" circle
I had a few queries about this regular progression and wondered if it applied to opalescent as well as transparent glass. I set up a few tests in my kiln. I fired them at 400C to 815C for 10 minutes.
You can see that the opalescents require more heat work than the transparent. If you are making circles with both transparent and opalescent you will need more time at the top temperature - perhaps 30 to 45 minutes. This results from the greater viscosity of the opalescent colours.
I also tried making ovals from rectangular pieces oriented at about 25 degrees to each other. You can see they were not successful with a 10 minute soak.
Wednesday, 28 September 2022
Bubbles in Bottle Slumps
Any suggestions on how to avoid getting the oblong bubble under the neck of the bottle? This was my first try and I’m really happy with clarity, no devitrification in these.
I used this schedule:
Fahrenheit Celsius
300/1150/30 167/620/30
200/1370/20 111/740/20
400/1450/20 222/787/20
AFAP/950/60 AFAP/510/60
150/800/0 63/427/0
300/100 167/55/off
The bubble is kind of cool but not sure what it will do when I put it in a bottle mould.
To minimise the bubble, you need a bubble squeeze. There isn't one of sufficient length or at the right temperature in the schedule. The softening point of bottle glass is approximately 720C. Starting the bubble squeeze at ca. 670C/1240F and progressing slowly (ca.50/90F or less) to 720C/1340F may give a better bubble squeeze.
Also, the anneal soak is a bit low. Bottle glass and float glass both have annealing points of about 550C. You might make use of a lower annealing soak temperature to reduce the cooling time. It is usually possible to anneal 30C below the published annealing temperature. In this case that would be 520C.
There is pretty thick glass in some places due to the way the bottom and neck of the bottle form. You may want to extend your anneal soak to one for 12mm/0.5”. The soak time for this is 2 hours. The first cooling segment would be 55C/100F per hour to 475C/888F if you use 520C/970F as the annealing soak. The second cool segment should be at 99C/180F per hour to 420C/790F. And the final rate at 330C/600F to room temperature. It is important to include all three stages of cooling. The research for my book Low Temperature Kilnforming (Or directly from stephen.richard43@gmail.com) has shown that to get the best stress-free results use all three stages of cooling.
Bubbles at the shoulder of the bottle are common. The change in circumference of the bottle at the shoulder means there is a greater amount of glass to “compress”. Bottles with tapered circumference at the top of the bottle have fewer problems with creating bubbles. The abrupt change in size at the shoulder causes bubbles to be more common. A long slow bubble squeeze will allow the shoulder to form more closely in line with the neck.
There are other things you can do to
help avoid the bubbles. One thing is to insert a thin kiln washed wire into the
neck of the bottle. This gives a path for the air to escape and allows you to
pull it out, although a mark will be left. You could also think of
drilling a hole in what will be the underside at the shoulder to allow air out
to the shelf. It does not need to be a big hole.
Bubbles at the shoulder of a slumped bottle are a common problem. It results from the greater amount of glass that has to slump into the space. This leaves a cavity. Slower bubble squeezes can help, as well as various venting methods.
Wednesday, 17 August 2022
Hake brushes
Hake (ha-kay) brushes are made from goat's hair. Their advantage over other brushes for applying kiln wash is that they hold a lot of liquid. Proper ones made from joined bamboo work better than the ones with flat handles.
Traditional Japanese hake brush
People often note that these brushes
tend to shed hairs. The solution to stray hairs (given to me in a Bullseye
workshop) is to invert the new brush and apply super glue at the point where
the hairs emerge from the handle. This holds the hairs in place. It will
work on flat handles too.
Inexpensive goat's hair brushes of the hake style.
As can be seen by comparison, there are fewer hairs in these.
Wednesday, 10 August 2022
Kiln wash application with a brush
Kiln wash is
applied thinly in a 1:5 powder to water mix to shelves and moulds. The object is to get a complete coverage with
a smooth surface.
To ensure full coverage painting four coats is sufficient for excellent coverage. The kiln was should be applied in four directions – horizontal, vertical, and each diagonal. This ensures any gaps in one coat will be covered by the others. A broad brush that holds a lot of liquid provides good coverage. A hake brush is ideal. The brush should be held almost vertical with the ends of the bristles only touching the surface.
A traditional Japanese hake brush |
There is no need to dry each coat before applying the next. It is not like painting your wall. All coats can be applied one directly after the other. No drying between coats is required. In fact, earlier dried coats tend to make the application clumpy and streaky.
Some people advocate a fifth coat. I don’t know what the fifth coat is for. What direction other than the four cardinal ones can there be? It maybe it is insurance that the surface is coated evenly. This can be checked visually. The kiln washes used for glass are routinely coloured. If the shelf shows unevenly through the kiln wash, a little more needs to be brushed onto the more thinly coated area.
It is possible to smooth the
kiln washed surface once the kiln wash has a dusty surface – it does not have
to be completely dry – you can put a piece of paper between the shelf or mould
and your hand. Gently rub the surface to
get a really smooth finish to your kiln washed shelf.
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/08/applying-kiln-wash.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/08/smooth-kiln-wash-on-shelves.html