Compatibility of Stained Glass

Is there a way to find out if some stained glass is compatible with fusing?

Yes, there is a way to test for compatibility. This strip test is the one I recommend. It is simple, repeatable and provides a reference for future use if labelled and stored carefully.

Determining the Coefficient of Expansion (CoE) is a testing laboratory process, not something we can do at studio level. But compatibility of several glasses can be easily established by this testing process.

Some indicators:

• Stained glass is more likely to be compatible with Oceanside or Wissmach than Bullseye.

• Transparent and streaky glasses are more likely to work in Kilnforming than wispy or opalescent, which tend to devitrify easily and have more compatibility problems.

• It is possible to find colours from one manufacturer that are compatible with each other but with none of the fusing compatible glasses, but it takes a lot of testing.

Wreaths

Can glass wreaths be made from bottles?

Last autumn a small group within the cooperative Jangling Space decided to see if we could make strip construction glass wreaths for Christmas.  This developed out of a collaborative project with Christopher Jeffree on whether bottle glass could be made to fit together at various sizes of frit.

Testing for compatibility of glass at frit levels

It was postulated that small sized frits did not allow stress to build to critical length beyond the frit size.  Work is still going on to discover the upper limits to the frit size for this postulation to become invalid.

We speculated that the same brand bottles from the same drinks manufacturer would be compatible.  We thought this possible, because there are few bottle manufacturers that can produce the number of bottles required and that they would have consistency.  After some experiments with same colour wine bottles we found very inconsistent compatibility.  But some volume wine producers use distinctive bottle colours, which seem to have consistency.

After some experimentation we settled on green Gordons gin bottles combined with blue bottles of a reueda wine bottled under the Four Lines brand, both of which had consistency between bottles and production runs and showed acceptable stress levels between them for these purposes. This was important to be able to distinguish by colour the stress between the frit particles. The microscopic investigation of these frit combinations did show incompatibilities, but at very short lengths.  The stress between less compatible frits was indeed interrupted by the connection of groups of wholly compatible ones.  This was successfully tested in various proportions (25%, 50%, 75%) and sizes from 75 microns to 1200 microns. Testing for larger frits remains to be conducted.

Producing the flat glass

Jangling Space had been producing sheet glass from bottles by analogy from hand blown glass — where the glass cylinder has the ends cut off, and then split — for several years.  After experimentation, it was found that cutting out a quarter of the bottle cylinder, the largest piece of flat glass could be made.  Of course, we tended toward brighter greens, yellow greens, pale ambers, and various shades of blue. This kept part of the glass pallet inexpensively supplied. 

Experimenting for the wreaths

A group of four gathered together to conduct the experimentation and preparing for a wreath making class.  Knowing that the Gordons green bottles were consistently compatible, whether as retail or bar sized bottles enabled progress toward using strips to combine into fused objects. 

 Strips were decided upon because:

• it is simple to provide parts for people with no fusing knowledge or experience to assemble,  

• there is less waste than from shards piled on top of one another,

• consistent widths of strips placed on edge would make annealing more accurate,

• It would provide a distinctive wreath pattern

We began experimenting with size, arrangement, paints, glues, Frits, glass dots, etc., to provide stability, texture, decoration.

The first element was to establish the principle, so began with small wreaths of about 15cm/6”.  These were quick to assemble on shelf paper and we tried sticking them together with CMC.  This was messy and required significant drying time before they could be moved.  The second assembly test was to use frit to stabilise the pieces.  We found we could use thin but relatively stiff plastic sheets to move the pieces on shelf paper to the kiln with little disturbance.

The pieces were fired at a 200°C/360°F rate to 720°C/1328°F for 10 minutes. This temperature was chosen as it is the softening temperature for float glass, which we believed would be enough to stick the glass together without loosing the textures of the radiating strips.  We did not use the double thickness for scheduling and annealing as is usual in unevenly thick projects.  Instead the pieces were annealed as for 12mm/0.5” although the strips averaged just less than 10mm, but of course there were gaps to be considered.

They came out looking well, and with acceptable levels of stress.  But they proved to be fragile when handled. Inspection showed that the wreaths were breaking where the attachment points were small.  This led to heaping fine and medium frit over the strips – rather than fitting fine frit between – for the next set of wreaths.  It was also felt that the wreaths were pretty dark, so we decided to add clear glass from Gordons gin bottles in a ratio of two green strips to one clear strip. At the same time some of the wreaths had some Bullseye red and white dots added to add more colour.  These were fired to 740°C/1364°F. There was little difference in texture of the strips – only a little more rounding – but the frits were more like sand than an enhancement to the wreath.  We also found that the clear bottle glass increased the amount of stress, so we went back to all green.  The dots showed very little stress, so they became part of the assembly.  

Again, although more robust in handling, they were still fragile.

Having learned

• frit can stabilise the unfired strips

• frits need to be medium to large for a good appearance

• higher temperatures are required

• only the green Gordons glass could be used

• Small Bullseye dots could be sparsely spread over wreaths

We went to a larger scale – 28cm/11”.

Stepping up in scale required a lot more glass – we found two bottles were needed to provide enough strips for a wreath.  That is a lot of 75mm/3“ strips! We produced a lot of quenched frit from the bottle necks and bottoms, which required a lot of pounding and sifting, to get rid of the fine and powdered glass.  At this scale drawing the limits for the strips became important to maintain the circular doughnut form.  Props were needed to keep the strips upright, as many of the cuts were not clean, due to the thickness variations caused by the embossing of the Gordons design on each bottle.

The essential "sprinkling" of coarse frit for a couple of centimetres (ca. 1”) out from from the centre of the strips was about two layers thick.  During the firing most of this sank into the voids between the ends of the strips, and left a "moraine" texture over the internal part of the wreath.  It gave an impression of the strips flowing out from the centre, or possibly as a retreating glacier.  It provided strength to the vulnerable/weak areas where the sides of the strips contact each other.

This increase in size needed radiating guide lines to keep the strips radiating from the centre, rather than bunching up side by side.   More short pieces were needed to fill outer gaps than expected from the smaller trials. The increased size required not only more glass, but a more robust method of transferring the unfired pieces to the kiln.  A couple of things were investigated until we discovered pizza shovels.  This was ideal to slide under the shelf paper and carefully carry to the kiln.  Also more storage space was needed, as not all the wreaths could be fitted into the kiln at once. The minor problems of scale!.

A contour fuse was used to

• maintain a lot of the undulations of the glass,

• allow some bending over to lower pieces, and

• make better contacts and incorporation of the pieces.

These fired well giving a much more robust, although heavy, wreath that was admired by the group and the members of Jangling Space. This reveal of what the group had been doing led to the suggestion of stringing LED lights and ribbons around the wreaths.

In preparation for the hands-on making of wreaths by members of Jangling Space, it was decided to make “statement” wreaths of 38cm/15” diameter.   A trial showed that three large Gordons bottles would be required to make them.  Also an additional 50% more frit required to be made.

Jangling Space members had to provide and clean sufficient bottles.  They were cut and flattened for them, and frit made from the necks and bottoms.  Each person had to cut their own strips after being shown that breaking thick glass is easier with cut running pliers without cushions.  They assembled and decorated their wreaths and the experimental group placed the frit around the inner part of the wreath.  The results were placed on a large pizza shovel and transferred to the kiln, and the waiting ones to storage shelves.

For the class that was subsequently offered, the bottles were provided by Jangling Space members who helped clean them.  Members of the experimenting group cut, flattened, cut strips, made frit and red and white balls so each class attender had a set of parts with which to assemble their wreaths. It went surprisingly well.

Thanks to Chris, Linda, Lyndsey and all the others who helped in this project.

CoE vs Compatibility

CoE does not determine compatibility. Of course Coefficient of Expansion (CoE) increases the chance of compatibility, but when it is understood that it is CoE that is manipulated to give an equal but opposite force to the viscosity, you realise that CoE is a variable measurement of compatibility rather than a constant. The formulation for each colour of glass has to have a different rate of contraction to balance the force of viscosity.

Each manufacturer uses a range of CoEs to make their glass fusing compatible. Spectrum once noted that their fusing glass varied by 10 points, and since Oceanside is using the formulations from Spectrum it is most likely the same is true for their glass. So if 96 were the midpoint of the CoEs used by Oceanside, the range is 91 to 101. Bullseye has stated their CoE range is 5 points, and that when taken to the next decimal point, it is closer to 91 than 90. Again, assuming that 90.5 is the midpoint, their range is from 88 to 93. Theoretically it would be possible to find a 96 glass compatible with Bullseye.

Each manufacturer will formulate their colours differently (because they don't know the exact formulations of others' glass), and so a glass in their "96" range, for example, may vary enough from another's to be incompatible. We practitioners can't know what or which variations there are without testing the compatibility. And that's why I stick to one manufacturer, even though I may like colours from other manufacturers. Anyway, it is possible to combine colours in one manufacturers line to imitate colours in another's, and there are people who have done the work to determine combinations to provide a wide range of shades and tones. For example, Kim Brill has done it for Bullseye sheet glass and for powders.

Since CoE and Compatibility are not the same thing, it is risky to assume all glass labelled with the same CoE number will always be compatible.

More details about CoE and compatibility. 

CoE equals compatibility?

Meaningof CoE. 

Importance of CoE. 

Cautions about compatibility of glass with the same CoE number. 

Is White a Difficult Glass?

Description of the Project

A white 3mm base with 3mm and 6mm decorations made up of mosaic pieces from previously fused glass (all the same CoE). At the end of the firing three corners had broken and their edges rounded. The fourth corner had sharp edges. The tentative conclusion was that there was incompatibility between the white and the previously fired pieces. There were no other cracks visible on the white or between the mosaic pieces. The author did not indicate what the schedule was for either firing, nor what the profile of the last firing was, but asserts white is a particularly difficult glass which does not work well with a wide variety of colours.

My observations are: 

• Compatibility is not an issue on the heat up. It is only a problem at annealing and cooling.
• Breaks on the ramp up (showing rounded edges at the conclusion of the firing) are normally the results of too fast rates.
• Breaks during cooling (showing sharp edges) are due to annealing, compatibility, cooling rates, or some combination of these.
• Previously fired glass can show some shift in compatibility and so needs slower up ramp rates than normal for the profile and thickness.
• Incompatibility between the base and the mosaic pieces would show up as breaks in the white glass under each top mosaic piece.
• Not all glass of the same CoE from different manufacturers is compatible.

Could this have been from incompatibility?

On the way to top temperature the pieces have not yet combined. The incompatibility will only show up during the cooling, as it is the imbalance of  viscosity and contraction between the fused pieces that cause the breaks.

Only one of the broken corners has those sharp edges, making incompatibility an improbable cause of the breaks. Further, incompatibility between the base and upper layers present either a crazed appearance at the connections, or simple breaks around the base of each decorative piece. Incompatibility would have multiple breaks all over the base, if not the top too. Finally, if the fired mosaic pieces were incompatible with the white glass, there would have been breaks throughout the whole piece, not just at the corners.

A further possibility is that the corners were very close to the sides of the kiln, because only the corners broke away from the piece,. If it was side fired, much slower rates are required. And all kilns tend to be cooler near the sides on the heat up than toward the centre, even if top fired.

My guess, based on the description, is that the up ramps were too fast, and the anneal was too short and the cool too fast. Unless the previously fused pieces were tested for stress it is not possible to know whether those were stressed before the final firing, which could have caused the break off of the three of the corners. The fourth corner break was on the cool down and is most likely to be too short an anneal and/or too quick a cool.

Is white glass especially difficult?

There is nothing in this piece to identify white glass as an extraordinarily difficult glass, or that a multiplicity of colours added to white would provoke breaks. The problems exhibited are most likely related to fast heat up ramp rates, and inadequate annealing and cooling.

Float Annealing Temperatures

Float glass annealing temperatures vary quite a bit from one manufacturer to another; and even within one manufacturer’s product line.

Comparisons of various float glasses

Some companies are more informative that others.  Pilkington are one of the more open of European glass manufacturers on various bits of information.

Pilkington Float

CoLE 83 *^10-5

Softening point:  715°C

annealing point:  548°C

strain point: 511C

Pilkington Optiwhite ™

Softening point:  ca. 732°C

annealing point:  ca. 559°C

strain point:  ca. 526°C

There is a difference of 11C between two of the Pilkington product lines for the annealing points.  The softening and strain points are slightly wider.

Glaverbel, a Belgian company, restricts their information to CoLE and the softening point.

CoLE 91 * 10^-5

Softening point: 600°C

Saint-Gobain, a French company, shows some more of the variation in the product lines, although they do not give specific annealing points for the different products.

CoLE 90 * 10^-5

annealing range:  520 - 550°C

Low E glass

softening – 840°C

strain - 617°C

R glass (sound reducing)

softening – 986°C

strain - 736°C

D glass (decorative)

softening point – 769°C

Compatibility

Even this small sample of float glasses shows there is a significant difference between manufacturers for the softening, annealing and strain points.  This means that, unless you are sure of the glass merchant’s source of glass, you will need to test each batch of glass for compatibility with previous batches, if you are combining from different suppliers.

I included the CoLE numbers (which all the manufacturers specified as an average change in length for each degree C increase in temperature from 0 to 300°C) to show the variation and to challenge anyone to find Bullseye and Saint-Gobain or Glaverbel compatible with each other.  My experience has shown that the Optul coloured frit and confetti is more likely to be compatible with Pilkington than the other two.

Annealing

I have been beginning my annealing of float glass at 525°C.  This little bit of literature research shows that my annealing soak should be starting higher, possibly at 540°C, certainly no lower than 530°C.  Other areas of the world may find their float glass has significantly different annealing ranges.

Slump Point Test

At a time when we are all going to be trying a variety of glass of unknown compositions to reduce costs of kiln working, the knowledge of how to determine the slump point temperature (normally called the softening point in the glass manufacturing circles) and the approximate annealing temperature becomes more important.  The slump point test can be used to determine both the slumping point and the annealing soak temperature.  This was required when the manufacturers did not publish the information, and it continues to be useful for untested glasses.

The method requires the suspension at a defined height of a strip of glass, the inclusion of an annealing test, and the interruption of the schedule to enter the calculated annealing soak temperature.

A strip of 3 mm transparent glass is required.  This does not mean that it has to be clear, but remember that dark glass absorbs heat differently from clear or lightly tinted glass. The CoE characteristics given are normally those of the clear glass for the fusing line concerned.  The strip should be 305 mm x 25 mm.  

Suspend the strip 25 mm above the shelf, leaving a span of 275 mm. This can be done with kiln brick cut to size, kiln furniture, or a stack of fibre paper.   Make sure you coat any kiln furniture with kiln wash to keep the glass from sticking.

The 305mm strip suspended 25mm above the shelf with kiln furniture.

Place some kiln furniture on top of the glass where it is suspended to keep the strip from sliding off the support at each end. Place a piece of wire under the centre of this span to make observation of the point that the glass touches down to the shelf easier.

The strip held down by placing kiln furniture on top of the glass, anchoring it in place while the glass slumps.

If you are testing bottles, you may find it more difficult to get such a long strip.  My suggestion is that you cut a bottle on a tile saw to give you a 25 mm strip through the length of the bottle.  Do not worry about the curves, extra thickness, etc.  Put the strip in the kiln and take it to about 740C to flatten it. Reduce the temperature to about 520C to soak there for 20 minutes.  Then turn the kiln off.  

Also add a two layer stack of the transparent glass near the suspended strip of glass to act as a check on whether the annealing soak temperature is correct. This stack should be of two pieces about 100 mm square. If you are testing bottles, a flattened side will provide about the same thickness.  This process provides a check on the annealing temperature you choose to use.  If the calculated temperature is correct there should be little if any stress showing in the fired piece.

The completed test set up with an annealing test and wire set at the midpoint of the suspended glass to help with determining when the glass touches down.

The schedule will need to be a bit of guess work.  The reasons for the suggested temperatures are given after this sample initial schedule which needs to be modified during the firing.

In Celsius
Ramp 1: 200C per hour to 500C, no soak
Ramp 2: 50C per hour to 720C, no soak
Ramp 3: 300C per hour to 815C or 835C, 10 minute soak
Ramp 4: 9999 to 520C, 30 minute soak
Ramp 5: 80C per hour to 370C, no soak
Ramp 6: off.

In Fahrenheit

Ramp 1: 360F per hour to 932F, no soak
Ramp 2: 90F per hour to 1328F, no soak
Ramp 3: 540F per hour to 1500F or 1535FC, 10 minute soak
Ramp 4: 9999 to 968F, 30 minute soak
Ramp 5: 144F per hour to 700F, no soak
Ramp 6: off.

Fire at the moderate rate initially, and then at 50C/90Fper hour until the strip touches down. This is to be able to accurately record the touch down temperature.  If you fire quickly, the glass temperature will be much less than the air temperature that the pyrometer measures.  Firing slowly allows the glass to be nearly the same temperature as the air.  

Observe the progress of the firing frequently from 500C/932F onward.  If it is float or bottle glass you are testing you can start observing from about 580C. Record the temperature when the middle of the glass strip touches the shelf. The wire at the centre of the span will help you determine when the glass touches down.  This touch down temperature is the slump point of your glass.  You now know the temperature to use for gentle slumps with a half hour soak.  More angular slumps will require a higher temperature or much more time.

Once you have recorded the slump point temperature, you can skip to the next ramp (the fast ramp 3).  This is to proceed to a full fuse for soda lime glasses. Going beyond tack fusing temperatures is advisable, as tack fuses are much more difficult to anneal and so may give an inaccurate assessment of the annealing. Most glasses, except float, bottles and borosillicate will be fully fused by 815C. If it is float, bottles or borosilicate that you are testing, try 835C. If it is a lead bearing glass, lower temperatures than the soda lime glass should be used. In all these cases observation at the top temperature will tell you if you have reached the full fuse temperature. If not add more time or more heat to get the degree of fuse desired.

While the kiln is heating toward the top temperature you can do the arithmetic to determine the annealing point.  To do this, subtract 40C/72F from the recorded touch down temperature to obtain an approximate upper annealing point.  The annealing point will be 33C/60F below the upper point.  This is approximate as the touch down temperature is, by the nature of the observation. approximate.  

The next operation is to set this as the annealing soak temperature in the controller. This will be the point at which it usually possible to interrupt the schedule and change the temperature for the annealing soak that you guessed at previously. Sometimes though, you need to turn the controller off and reset the new program.  Most times the numbers from the last firing are retained, so that all you need to do is to change the annealing soak temperature.

The annealing soak should be for 60 minutes to ensure an adequate anneal. This may be excessive for 3 mm glass, but as the anneal test is for 6 mm, the longer soak is advisable. The annealing cool should be 83C/hr down to 370C. This is a moderate rate which will help to ensure the annealing is done properly. The kiln can be turned off at that temperature, as the cooling of the kiln will be slow enough to avoid any thermal shock to the annealing test piece.

When cooled, check the stack for stress. This is done by using two polarised light filters. See here for the method. 

Squares of glass showing different levels of stress from virtually none to severe
 (no light emanating for no stress to strong light from the corners indicating a high degree of stress.)

If the anneal test piece is stressed, there could be a number of reasons for the inadequate annealing. It could be that the glass has devitrified so much that it is not possible to fuse this glass at all. If you also test the suspended strip for stresses and there is very little or none, it is evidence that you can kiln form single layers of this glass. You now know the slumping temperature and a suitable annealing temperature and soak for it, even though fusing this glass is not going to be successful.

Other reasons for stress due to inadequate annealing could be that the observations or calculations were incorrect.  

• Of course, before doing any other work, you should check your arithmetic to ensure the calculations have been done correctly. I'm sure you did, but it is necessary to check.  If they are not accurate, all the following work will be fruitless.

• The observation of the touch down of the suspended strip can vary by quite a bit - maybe up to 15C.  To check this, you can put other annealing test pieces in the kiln.  This will require multiple firings using temperatures in a range from 10C/18F above to 10C/18F below your calculated annealing soak temperature to find an appropriate annealing soak temperature.

• If stress is still showing in the test pieces after all these tests, you can conduct a slump point test on a strip of glass for which there are known properties. This will show you the look of the glass that has just reached touch down point as you know it will happen at 73C above the published annealing point.  You can then apply this experience to a new observation of the test glass. 

Revised 30.12.24

Breaks after the Piece is Cool

People sometimes fire a piece only to have it break after it is cool.  They decide to re-fire with additional decoration to conceal the break.  But it breaks again a day after it has cooled.  Their questions centre around thermal shock and annealing. They used the same CoE from different suppliers, so it must be one of these elements that caused the breakage.

Thermal Shock

This is an effect of a too rapid heat changes.  Its can occur on the way up in temperature or on the way down.  If it occurred on the way up to a fuse, the edges will be rounded.  If it occurred on the way up to a slump the edges may be sharp still, but the pieces will not fit together because the slump occurred before the slump.  It the break occurs on the way down the pieces will be sharp.  The break will be visible when you open the kiln.  More information is here.

If the break occurs after the piece is cool, it is not thermal shock.

Annealing

Another possible cause of delayed breakage is inadequate annealing.  Most guidelines on annealing assume a flat uniform thickness.  The popularity of tack fused elements, means these are inadequate guides on the annealing soak and annealing cool.  Tack fused items generally need double the temperature equalisation soak and half the annealing cool rate. This post gives information on how the annealing needs modification on tack fused items. 

The annealing break usually crosses through the applied pieces and typically has a hook at each end of the break.  If the piece has significant differences in thicknesses, the break may follow the edge of the thicker pieces for some distance before it crosses it toward an edge. This kind of break makes it difficult to tell from an incompatibility break.

Compatibility

The user indicated all the glass was of the same CoE.  

This is not necessarily helpful. 

Coefficient of Linear Expansion (CoE) is usually measured between 20°C and 300°C. The amount of expansion over this temperature range is measured and averaged. The result is expressed as a fraction of a metre per degree Celsius. CoE90 means that the glass will expand 9 one-thousandths of a millimetre for each degree Celsius.  If this were to hold true for higher temperatures, the movement at 800C would be 7.2mm in length over the starting size.  However, the CoE rises with temperature in glass and is variable in different glasses, so this does not tell us how much the expansion at the annealing point will be.  It is the annealing point expansion rate that is more important.  More information is here.

• Compatibility is much more than the rate of expansion of glass at any given temperature.  
• It involves the balance of the forces caused by viscosity and expansion rates around the annealing point.

Viscosity is probably the most important force in creating compatible glasses. There is information on viscosity here.  To make a range of compatible glass the forces of expansion and viscosity need to be balanced.  Each manufacturer will do this in subtly different ways.  Therefore, not all glass that is claimed by one manufacturer to compatible with another’s will be so. 

All is not lost.  It does not need to be left to chance.

Testing glass from different sources is required, as you can see from the above comments.  It is possible to test the compatibility of glass from different sources in your own kiln.  The test is based on the principle that glass compatible with a base sheet will be compatible with other glasses that are also compatible with that same base sheet.  There are several methods to do this testing, but this is the one I use, based on Shar Moorman’s methods.  

If you are buying by CoE you must test what you buy against what you have.

If you are investing considerable effort and expense in a piece which will use glass from different sources or manufacturers, and which is simply labelled CoE90, or CoE96, you need to use these tests before you start putting the glass together.  The more you deviate from one manufacturer’s glass in a piece, the more testing is vital. 

In the past, people found ways of combining glass that was not necessarily compatible, by different layering, various volume relationships, etc.  But the advent of manufacturers’ developing compatible lines of glass eliminated the need to do all that testing and experimenting.  While the fused glass market was small, there were only a few companies producing fusing glass.  When the market increased, the commercial environment led to others developing glass said to be compatible with one or other of the main producers of fusing compatible glass.

An incompatibility break may occur in the kiln, or it may occur days, months or years later.  Typically, the break or crack will be around the incompatible glass.  The break or crack may follow one edge of the incompatible glass before it jumps to an edge.  The greater the incompatibility, the more likely it is to break apart.  Smaller levels of incompatibility lead to fractures around the incompatible glass pieces, but not complete breaks.

If the break occurs some length of time after the piece is cool, it can be an annealing or a compatibility problem.  They are difficult to distinguish apart sometimes.  There is more information about the diagnosis of the causes of cracks and breaks here.

The discussion above shows that even with the best intentions, different manufacturers will have differences that may be small, but can be large enough to destroy your project.  This means that unless you are willing to do the testing, you should stick with one manufacturer of fusing compatible glass. 

Do not get sucked into the belief that CoE tells you much of importance about compatibility.

Revised 30.12.24

Kilnforming Opalescent Stained Glass

The statement that a sheet of glass can be fused to itself is true in certain circumstances.  It applies to transparent and some streaky glasses best.  These forms of glass are more likely to fuse together successfully although not formulated for fusing.

Transparent and Streaky Glasses

Of course, the best practice is to test for compatibility.  I found in my early days of sticking stained glass together that it was beneficial to test. In doing so, I found Spectrum and Armstrong transparent and streaky glass to be largely consistent across many sheets.  I did not have access to much Kokomo or Wissmach.  I cannot comment on how their glass behaves in terms of compatibility across the production range.  Not all transparent and streaky glass remains stable at fusing temperatures. There are some glasses that opalise, some change colour, some devitrify. This variability makes compatibility testing important - even for the transparent form of stained glass.

Photo credit: Lead and Light

Wispy Glasses

The statement about fusing to itself is less applicable to wispy glass.  Not all the wispy stained glass from the same sheet can be fused.  It seems to be dependent on the amount of opalescence in any one area of the glass.  I found that it is possible - if you are very careful - to fuse certain Spectrum wispies with the clear fusing standard on top, but not on the bottom.  This should be applicable to other manufacturers’ wispy glass too.  There must be a marginal compatibility that is contained by the clear fusing glass on top, but I am not certain.

Photo credit: Lead and Light

Opalescent Glasses

The statement about fusing to itself is almost completely inapplicable to opalescent glass.  Stained glass opalescent glass does not have the compatibility requirements of fusing glasses.  They very often severely devitrify when taken to fusing temperatures.  This devitrification means that opalescent stained glass is often not compatible with itself.  So, no amount of twiddling with schedules will make stained glass opalescent glass fusible, even with itself.

Manufacturers have spent a lot of time and effort to produce fusing compatible opalescent glass.  It is as though there is a minor element of devitrification embodied in the opalising process.  Whether this is so, it becomes very apparent on doing compatibility testing that opalescent stained glass has severe devitrification at fusing temperatures.

Stock photo

Compatibility Testing

It is important to test for compatibility before committing to the main firing.  Some transparent and streaky glass changes colour, devitrifies, and some opalise at fusing temperatures. This applies with even more force to wispies.  They contain a significant proportion of opalescence within them.  Some opalescents are so unstable at fusing temperatures that the devitrification becomes so bad the glass crumbles.

The importance of testing pieces of the sheet for compatibility before committing to a firing is reinforced by these factors.

Slumping

Slumping temperatures are not so high as fusing, and it is often stated that single layers can be slumped.  Again, it is not always true.

Some glasses change colour at slumping temperatures.  A few opalise. It is not always certain what effect moderate temperatures will have on stained glass.  The compatibility testing will show.  Observe the test firing at slumping temperatures.  Also, you will learn if there are changes at moderate temperatures.

One element must be commented upon about slumping.  It is important to have the edges finished to the appearance that you want the final piece to have.  The regularity of the edges without bumps or divots, and the degree of polish need to be showing before the firing starts.  The slumping temperatures are not high enough to alter the shape or appearance of the edges.

Firing of stained glass to itself is normally a low risk activity, but with unpredictable results.  It can teach a lot about behaviour of glass at higher temperatures.  Slumping single layer pieces can give information about the way single layers of glass slump or drape.  But testing is important for fusing.  And can inform about how the glass will react at slumping temperatures too.

Coe and compatibility

From time to time you will see the statement:

“CoE is the determinant of compatibility”

This is Not True!  

I wish I could come up with something simple to counteract this CoE fallacy, but glass is complicated and I can’t think of a snappy phrase to help.  To understand why the statement above is false, some background on what CoE does mean and what range of temperature it applies to is important.

What CoE measures

The coefficient of expansion can be a measure of either linear or volumetric expansion.  It is most often conducted over the range of 20°C to 300°C.  The result is expressed as an average over this range.  If there are variations in rates of expansion, they are absorbed in this coefficient, ie., average.  The measure is of the part of one metre the material expands for each degree Celsius increase in temperature.  In the glass community this coefficient is expressed as two digits such as 83 which represents the expansion of glass by 0.0000083 of a metre for each degree Celsius change in the measured temperature range.

Relevant temperature range

Note the temperature range over which this is measured – up to 300°C.  This coefficient works well for crystalline solids, but not for glass.  Amorphous solids do not have linear expansion rates throughout the working range of temperatures. Room temperature to 300°C is not a critical temperature range for glass.  After all, many of us turn the kiln off around 370°C.  This means that the CoE measured up to 300°C is not really relevant to us, as we have discovered that the expansion rates for 6mm or less thick glass are not critical below 370°C.

Annealing range

The CoEs at annealing temperatures – the critical range for glass -  are in the 400 to 500 range.  It is in the annealing range – generally about 45°C above and below the annealing point of the glass – that CoE is most important.  The annealing point is above the now popular, but lower, annealing soak temperature. This is where the glass is soaked to obtain a temperature with a differential of no more that 5°C throughout the glass.  The practice has become to do this temperature equalisation at the lower portion of the annealing range.  Often this is only 10°C above the lower boundary of the annealing range. This gives a shorter cool and increases the density of the glass. Do not confuse annealing point with the annealing soak. They are not the same.

Critical temperature range for CoE

The Coefficient of Expansion is more important at the glass transition point. This is the temperature at which the molten material becomes a slightly flexible solid. The CoE and the viscosity interact in this range.  It is critical, as the opposing forces of viscosity and CoE must balance.  The CoE is adjusted by the manufacturer to create this balance.  It shows that CoE is dependent on the viscosity of the glass.  And the characteristics of each colour must also match all the other glass in the range of tested compatible fusing glass. This is not a simple thing to do.  If it were, there would be lots of companies doing it.

Experience of moving to a single CoE for fusing glass

The Bullseye experience of attempting to achieve compatibility across a range of glass in the early days of making fusing compatible glass showed that less compatibility was experienced when the colours had matching CoEs. Lani Macgreggor describes this experience well in this blog, “Eclipse of the Fun”. 

An expert’s explanation

A Bullseye article by Dan Schwoerer - possibly the major expert on making compatible glass - on achieving compatibility through compensating differences is the key to understanding the balancing of CoE with the viscosity.  It is on the Bullseye site as Tech Note #3.

There is a more impassioned description of matters relating to compatibility in five linked blogs by Lani Macgregor in the To BE or not BE blog.

Manufacturing to a range of CoE

Spectrum long ago stated that the CoE of their glass ranges up to 10 points  to achieve a compatible range of fusing glass.  This is probably true for every manufacturer of fusing compatible glass. 

Why CoE is NOT the determinant of fusing compatible glass

The things that mean CoE cannot be the determinant of compatible glass are:

• ·        The coefficient is for an inappropriate temperature range for glass.
• ·        The critical temperatures for expansion are in the annealing range, for which there are no widely published figures.
• ·        The expansion rates need to be adjusted to match the viscosity in this annealing range.
• ·        A major manufacturer has indicated their glass, known by the CoE of its fusing standard glass, has a 10-point range of CoEs within their fusing range.

It is not true that CoE is a determinant of compatibility.

CoE is an inappropriate number to indicate compatibility.  It does not guarantee compatibility.  It is a suspiciously accurate number leading people to erroneously believe any glass labelled with a given number will be compatible with any other with the same number. 

Other blog posts on CoE:

CoE does not determine critical temperatures: 

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2017/08/coe-as-determinant-of-temperature.html

Demonstration that CoE does not determine annealing or fusing temperatures:

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2017/08/comparisons-of-coe-and-temperatures.html

Note on the physical changes at annealing

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2014/03/annealing-physical-changes.html

Absence of any correlation between specific gravity and CoE:

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2018/11/specific-gravity-cole-and-colourants-of.html