Showing posts with label Frit stretching. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Frit stretching. Show all posts

Wednesday, 20 September 2023

Flows

 

Credit: Marcy Berman

I have not had much success [with] the Patty Gray mould despite using the recommended firing schedule. I always have holes or bubbles and the edges are not smooth.

The schedule for Oceanside was:

  • 111°C/200°F per hour to 537°C1000°F for 15 minutes
  • 167°C/300°F per hour to 662°C/1225°F for 30 minutes
  • 195°C/350°F per hour to 798°C/1470°F for 20 minutes
  • 9999 to 510°C/950°F for 120 minutes
  • 55°C/100°F per hour to 371°C/700°F off


 Your picture shows a bottom view of the piece - made of cullet pieces - as fired. Two large bubbles show to have been created from the bottom rising through the glass to the top.

 Although a long bubble squeeze will not prevent this, it will help to reduce the number of bubbles, and especially large ones. Because of the number of pieces and the thickness of the glass put into the mould, a longer bubble squeeze would benefit this piece.

 The bubble squeeze can be as you have done this – at a single temperature – with a soak. In this case, I would have used 60 to 90 minutes as the soak.

 The other bubble squeeze method is to start the squeeze about 55C/100F below the top of the bubble squeeze. Most people use a soak of about 30 minutes there. They then proceed at a rate of between 30C/55F and 55C/100F to the top of the bubble squeeze and soak there for another 30 minutes. The rates and soak times will vary according to the thickness or complexity of the piece.

 I dispense with the soak at the beginning of the bubble squeeze on the grounds that at 610/1130F so little movement will be created that it is a waste of time. I would prefer to have a slower ramp rate to the top temperature and a longer soak there. I know the glass will be moving at those temperatures. Many people find the soak at the beginning of the bubble squeeze successful.

 The schedule to the top of the fuse is faster than the rest of the schedule. When I want a piece to flow, and especially, to fill gaps, I slow the rate. In this case a rate of between 100C/180F and 167C/300F would be slow enough to allow the glass to flow to fill gaps.

 I want to ensure the glass has enough time when it is flowing most freely at the top temperature to level out. This requires scheduling a longer soak at the top and observing how well the glass is levelling out. If more time is required you can add it on the “run,” and advance to the next segment when the surface is as wanted. Read up in your kiln manual how to do both these things.

 Yes, the rate is one which will enable devitrification to form on flat glass. The soak at top temperature is even more likely to promote it. However, as the glass is flowing, less devitrification has an opportunity to form. The crystallisation – which is what devitrification is - of the glass takes time to form. The movement of the glass surface is sufficient to reduce the formation of those crystals. It is of course likely there will be some devitrification, but not as much as the slow rates and long soaks would lead you to think. 

 But for these flows there always is the possibility of devitrification. You have to plan a method of removing it. Unless the surface is very flat, grinding the top is not a fast way to remove it. Sandblasting is a quick way to remove devitrification. Another way is to sift a thin layer of clear glass powder over the surface. This is an increasingly popular way to deal with devitrification for those without access to sandblasting facilities. When fired again, the powder melts and forms a new shining surface. The piece will need to be fired fire again whether sandblasted or covered in glass powder.

The summary for flows:

  • Slow down to top temperature.
  • Give sufficient time there to get the flow needed.
  • Observe the progress as you near the top temperature.
  • Extend the soak or advance to the next segment when the surface is smooth.
  • Anneal soak for the calculated thickness.
  • Use a three-stage cool – as outlined in the Bullseye chart for annealing thick slabs - to ensure no temporary contraction stresses are created.
  • Accept there will be devitrification.