Showing posts with label Cooling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cooling. Show all posts

Wednesday 13 March 2024

Heat Up vs Annealing

I am amazed by the effort put into ramp up rates, bubble squeezes, and top temperatures in comparison to annealing.  The emphasis on social media groups seems to be to get the right ramp rates for tack fuses and slumps, bubble squeezes, etc.  Most of the attention is on the way up to processing temperature.

The treatment of annealing and cooling is almost cavalier by comparison.  The attention seems to be on what temperature, and how long a soak is needed.  Then some arbitrary rate is used to cool to 370ºC/700ºF.



Annealing, in comparison to firing to top temperature, is both more complex and more vital to getting sound, lasting projects completed.  Skimping on annealing is an unsound practice leading to a lot of post-firing difficulties.

Annealing is more than a temperature and a time.  It is also the cooling to avoid inducing temporary stress. That stress during cooling can be large enough to break the glass.  This temporary stress is due to expansion differentials within the glass.

People often cite the saving of electricity as the reason for turning off at 370ºC/700ºF.  My response is that if the kiln is cooling off slower than the rate set, there will be no electricity used.  No electricity demands.  No controller intervention.  No relay operation.

Annealing at the lower end of the range with a three-stage cooling provides good results.  The results of Bullseye research on annealing are shown in their chart for annealing thick items.  It applies to glass 6mm and much larger.  It results from a recommendation to anneal at the lower end of the annealing range to get good anneals.  Other industrial research shows annealing in the lower end gives denser glass, and by implication, more robust glass.  Wissmach have accepted the results of Bullseye research and now recommend 482ºC/900ºF as the annealing temperature for their W96.  The annealing point of course remains at 516ºC/960ºF.

Bullseye research goes on to show that a progressive cooling gives the best results.  They recommend a three-stage cooling process.  The first is for the initial 55ºC/º100F below the annealing temperature, a second 55ºC/100ºF cooling and a final cooling to room temperature.

It is a good practice to schedule all three cooling rates.  It may be considered unnecessary because your kiln cools slower than the chart indicates.  Well, that is fine until you get into tack and contour fusing.  Then you will need the three-stage cooling process as you will be annealing for thicknesses up to 2.5 times actual height.

 

Of course, you can find out all the reasons for careful annealing in my book "Annealing; concepts, principles, practice" Available from Bullseye at

https://classes.bullseyeglass.com/ebooks/ebook-annealing-concepts-principles-practice.html

Or on Etsy in the VerrierStudio shop

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1290856355/annealing-concepts-principles-practice?click_key=d86e32604406a8450fd73c6aabb4af58385cd9bc%3A1290856355&click_sum=9a81876e&ref=shop_home_active_4


Wednesday 6 March 2024

Slumping Strategy

A schedule was presented for a slumping problem of a 6mm/0.25” blank.  It consisted of three segments each of a rate of 277C/500F with short holds up to 399C/750F and then a rapid rise to 745C/1375F.  The cool was done with two long holds at 537C/1000F and 482C/900F followed by cooling rates for 12mm/0.5”



My response was that, yes it was fired too high.  Not only that, but the firing strategy, as shown by the schedule, is odd. 

Strategy

The general strategy for slumping follows these ideas.

·        Glass is slow to absorb heat, and in one sense, this schedule accepts that by having short soaks at intervals.  As glass is slow to absorb heat, it is necessary to use slow ramp rates and without pauses and changes in rates.  This should be applied all the way to the slumping temperature.

·        Holds of short durations are not effective at any stage in a slumping firing.  The objective is to allow the glass time to form to the mould with as little marking as possible.  This implies slow rates to low temperatures with significant holds at appropriate stages.  This about putting enough heat work into the glass that higher temperatures are not needed.

·        This kind of firing requires observation for new moulds and new arrangements of glass to ensure the slump is complete.  Once you know the mould requirements and are repeating the layup of the glass, the firing records will tell you what rates and times to use to get a complete slump with minimum marking.

·        The hold at annealing temperature is to equalise the temperature throughout the glass to produce a stress-free result.  Any soaks above are negated or repeated by the necessary soak at the annealing temperature.  The hold there must be long enough to complete the temperature equalisation that is the annealing.

·        My work has shown that annealing for one (3mm/0.125”) layer thicker produces a piece with less stress.  This indicates that a 6mm/0.25” piece should be annealed as for 9mm/0.35” to get the best result.

The summary of the firing strategy for slumping is:

  • ·        A single ramp of a slow rate to the slumping temperature.
  • ·        Observation of the progress of the slump to determine the lowest practical temperature and hold time.
  • ·        Annealing for one layer thicker that being slumped.
  • ·        Three stage cooling of the piece at rates related to the annealing hold.

Critique

This is a critique of the schedule. For comparison, my schedule for a full fused 6mm blank would be different.

  • ·        140ºC/250ºF to 677º/1250ºF for 30 to 45 minutes.
  • ·        9999 to 482ºC/900ºF for 1.5 hours
  • ·        69ºC/124ºF to 427ºC/800ºF, no hold
  • ·        125ºC/225ºF to 371ºC/700ºF, no hold
  • ·        330ºC/600ºF to room temperature, off.

The rate of the published schedule is fast for a full fused blank and extremely fast for a tack fused blank. This needs to be slowed.  The schedule provides a single (fast) rate of heating, but with unnecessary holds.  The holds are so short as to be ineffective, anyway. There is no need for the holds on the way up to the slumping temperature.  In general slumping schedules are of fewer segments.   This is because glass behaves well with steady slow inputs of heat.

Then strangely, the schedule increases the rate to top temperature.  It does so with a brief soak at 593ºC/1100ºF.  This fast rate of 333ºC/ 600ºF begins at 400ºC/750ºF.  This is still in the brittle phase of the glass and risks breaking the glass.  The brittle stage ends around 540ºC/ 1005ºF.

This rapid rate softens the surface and edges of the glass without allowing time for the underside to catch up.  This explains uneven edges.  It also risks breaking the glass from too great expansion of the top before the bottom.

Additionally, the schedule uses a temperature more than 55ºC/100ºF above what is a reasonable highest slumping temperature.  The top temperature of this schedule is in the tack fusing range.

There is no need for a hold 55ºC/100ºF above annealing soak. It is the annealing soak that equalises the temperature before the cool begins.  The higher temperature equalisation is negated by the cooler soak at annealing temperature. So, the hold at the higher temperature and slow cool to the annealing temperature only delays the firing by about two hours.  It does not have any effect on the final piece.

The schedule is cooling for a piece of 12mm/0.5”.  This is slower than necessary.  As noted above, cooling for one layer thicker than the piece is advisable to get the most stress free result.  The annealing soak could be 1.5 hours following this idea.  Cooling with a three stage schedule reduces the risk of inducing temporary stresses that might break the glass.  Although the initial cooling rate I recommend is very similar to this schedule, it safely reduces the total cooling time.

  • ·        69ºC/124ºF to 427ºC/800ºF, no hold
  • ·        125ºC/225ºF to 371ºC/700ºF, no hold
  • ·        330ºC/600ºF to room temperature, off.

Using my kind of schedule for the first time will require peeking once top temperature is reached to determine when the slump is complete. It may take as much as an hour. Be prepared to either extend the hold, or to skip to the next segment if complete earlier. The controller manual will explain how.

 More information is given in Low Temperature Kilnforming, An Evidence-based guide to scheduling.  Available from Etsy and Bullseye


Wednesday 27 December 2023

Scheduling with the Bullseye Annealing Chart

This post is about adapting the Bullseye chart Annealing Thick Slabs to write a schedule for any soda lime glass as used in kilnforming.

I frequently recommend that people should use the Bullseye chart for Annealing Thick Slabs in Celsius  and Fahrenheit.  This chart applies to glass from 6mm to 200mm (0.25” to 8”).

“Why should the Bullseye annealing chart be used instead of some other source?  I don’t use Bullseye.”

My answer is that the information in the chart is the most thoroughly researched set of tables for fusing compatible glass that is currently available.  This means that the soak times and rates for the thicknesses can be relied upon.

“How can it be used for glass other than Bullseye?”  

The rates and times given in the chart work for any soda lime glass, even float. It is only some of the temperatures that need to be changed.

"How do I do that?"  

My usual response is: substitute the annealing temperature for your glass into the one given in the Bullseye table.

 "It’s only half a schedule."

That is so.  The heating of glass is so dependent on layup, size, style, process, and purpose of the piece.  This makes it exceedingly difficult to suggest a generally applicable firing schedule.  People find this out after using already set schedules for a while. What works for one layup does not for another.

Devising a Schedule for the Heat Up

There is no recommendation from the chart on heat up.  You have to write your own schedule for the first ramps.  I can give some general advice on some of the things you need to be aware of while composing your schedule.

The essential element to note is that the Bullseye chart is based on evenly thick pieces of glass.  Tack fusing different thicknesses of glass across the piece, requires more caution. The practical process is to fire as for thicker pieces.  The amount of additional thickness is determined by the profile being used.  The calculation for addition depends on the final profile.  The calculation for thickness is as follows:

  • Contour fusing - multiply the thickest part by 1.5. 
  • Tack fusing - multiply the thickest part by 2. 
  • Sharp tack or sinter - multiply the thickest part by 2.5.

The end cooling rate for the appropriate thickness is a guide for the first ramp rate of your schedule.  For example, the final rate for an evenly thick piece 19mm/0.75” is 150ºC/270ºF.  This could be used as the rate for the first ramp. 

Bob Leatherbarrow has noted that most breaks occur below 260ºC/500ºF.  If there are multiple concerns, more caution can be used for the starting ramp rate.  My testing shows that using a rate of two thirds the final rate of cooling with a 20 minute soak is cautious.  In this example of a 19mm piece it would be 100ºC/180ºF per hour.

Even though for thinner pieces the rates given are much faster, be careful.  It is not advisable to raise the temperature faster than 330ºC/600ºF per hour to care for both the glass and the kiln shelf.

Once the soak at 260ºC//500ºF is finished, the ramp to the bubble squeeze should maintain the previous rate.  It should not be speeded up.  The glass is still in the brittle phase.

After the bubble squeeze you can use a ramp rate to the top temperature of up to 330C/600F.   AFAP rates to top temperature are not advisable.  It is difficult to maintain control of the overshoots in temperature that are created by rapid rates.  

The top temperature should be such as to achieve the result in 10 minutes to avoid problems that can occur with extended soaks at top temperature.

In the example of an evenly thick 19mm/0.75” piece a heat up full fuse schedule like this could be used:

  • 150ºC/270ºF to 566ºC/1052ºF for 0 minutes
  • 50C/90F to 643C/1191F for 30 minutes
  • 333ºC/600ºF to 804ºC/1479ºF for 10 minutes

 

If a more cautious approach to the heat up is desired, this might be the kind of schedule used:

 

  • 100ºC/180ºF to 260ºC/500ºF for 20 minutes
  • 100ºC/180ºF to 566ºC/1052ºF for 0 minutes
  • 50C/90F to 643ºC/1191ºF for 30 minutes
  • 333ºC/600ºF to 804ºC/1479ºF for 10 minutes

This approach is applicable to all fusing glasses.

 

Adapting the Bullseye Annealing Chart

After writing the first part of the schedule, you can continue to apply the annealing information from the Bullseye chart.  The first part of the anneal cooling starts with dropping the temperature as fast as possible to the annealing temperature.

The method for making the chart applicable to the annealing is a matter of substitution of temperatures.  

First, determine the annealing point of the glass.  Go to the web page of the glass manufacturer to get their annealing temperature.  You can use the information in this blog post giving some of the critical temperatures for a range of glasses.  This information has been taken from the manufacturers’ web sites as they are sometimes difficult to find.  A brief listing of some published annealing soak temperatures:

  • Bullseye                               482C/900F
  • Oceanside                            510C/960F
  • Uroboros by Youghiogheny     510C/960F
  • Old Uroboros                        519C/967F
  • Wissmach 96                        482C/900F
  • Youghiogheny96                    510C/960F
  • Float Glass
  • Pilkington Optiwhite               559C/1039F
  • Pilkington Optifloat                548C/1019F
  • USA float (typical)                 548C/1019F
  • Australian float (typical)         548C/1019F

Use the annealing temperature from your source as the target temperature in place of the Bullseye temperature.

The annealing soak times are important to equalise the temperature within the glass to an acceptable level (ΔT=5ºC).  The annealing soak time is related to the calculated thickness of the piece.  This measurement is done in the same way as devising the appropriate rate for heat up. 

Applying the Cooing Rates

Then apply the rates and temperatures as given in the chart.  The three stage cooling is important.  The gradually increasing rates keep the temperature differentials within acceptable bounds with the most rapid and safe rates.

The temperatures and rates remain the same for all soda lime glasses – the range of glass currently used in fusing, including float glass.  The soak time for the calculated thickness of your glass piece will be the same as in the Bullseye chart.  

This means that the first cooling stage will be to 427ºC/800ºF.  The second stage will be from 427ºC/800ºF to 371ºC/700˚F.  And the final stage will be from 371ºC/700˚F to room temperature.

I will repeat, because it is so important, that the thickness to be used for the anneal soak and cooling rates for your schedule relates to the profile you desire.  A fuse with even thickness across the whole piece can use the times, temperatures, and rates as given in the chart as adapted for your glass.  The thicknesses to use are for:

Contour fusing - multiply the thickest part by 1.5. 

Tack fusing - multiply the thickest part by 2. 

Sharp tack or sinter - multiply the thickest part by 2.5.

An annealing cool schedule for 19mm/0.75" Oceanside glass is like this:

  • AFAP to 510˚C/ 951˚F for 3:00 hours
  • 25˚C/45˚F to 427˚C/800˚F for 0 time
  • 45˚C/81˚F to 371˚C/700˚F for 0 time
  • 150˚C/270˚F to room temperature, off.


Many will wish to turn off the kiln as early as possible.  This is not part of best kilnforming practice.  If you still wish to do this, the turn off temperature must be related to the thickness and nature of the piece.  To turn off safely, you need to know the cooling characteristics of your kiln.  This can be determined by observing the temperature against time and then calculating the kiln’s natural cooling rateAnd then applying that information to cooling the kiln.

 

The best source for devising schedules is the Bullseye chart for Annealing Thick Slabs.  It is well researched and is applicable with little work to develop appropriate schedules for all the fusing glasses currently in use.

 

 




Wednesday 20 December 2023

Anneal and Cool Relationship

Annealing and cooling are directly related. You cannot extend the anneal soak without also slowing the cooling rates and expect to have a sound piece. What I am seeing on the internet groups about annealing breaks is comments saying the anneal soak is not long enough. So, people add time to the hold at the annealing temperature and still get breaks. They get breaks because the cooling rates are not slowed when the annealing soak time is extended.

A recording of an anneal soak and cool


If you need 3 hours anneal soak, you cannot cool at a rate of 83C°/150°F to 371C°/700°F. An anneal of 3 hours implies you are firing a piece of effectively* 19mm/0.75”. This needs a cool rate of :

  • ·        25°C to 427°C. (45°F/hr to 800°F),
  • ·        45°C/hour to 371°C (81°F/hr to 700°F),
  • ·        150°C/hour (270°F) to room temperature.

Put the other way around, if you can use a first cool rate of 55°C (100°F)/hr you can use a two-hour soak at anneal. That means that you are firing a piece effectively* 12mm/0.5” thick.

But you cannot expect to maintain the required small temperature differential of 5°C/10°F (achieved at the anneal) with a single cool rate. Tests by Bullseye and confirmed by my own recorded tests show that a three-stage cooling is necessary to maintain that small difference of temperature throughout the cooling without using excessive firing times.

A two-hour soak requires cooling in three stages of:

  • ·        55°C /100°F to 427°C/ 800°F
  • ·        99°C/179°F to 371°C/700°F
  • ·        330°C/595°F to room temperature.

If that small 5°C/10°F temperature differential is not maintained in the first stage cooling, temporary stresses can be induced.  Slightly higher levels of temperature differentials can be withstood during the next stages. The stresses induced by larger temperature differences can be great enough to break the glass. In many schedules published online by kilnformers, very long soaks are being used in relation the effective* thickness. But the cool soaks are too rapid in relation to the anneal hold to avoid inducing excessive (although temporary) stress.

This practice presumes the anneal soak is all there is to the production of a sound piece of glass. It is not. The cool rates from annealing to room temperature are important. To repeat, a long annealing soak with fast cool rates can lead to breaks - breaks that are not related to the annealing time. The cooling rates must be related to the amount of time needed for the anneal soak. A fast cool can induce temporary stresses that are great enough to break the glass. The appearance of the break will often be similar to an anneal break.

Don’t worry about using additional electricity with the slower rates of cooling. If the kiln cools more slowly than the scheduled rate, no power will be used. The relays will not have to operate.

Annealing times and cool rates are intimately related. And must be scheduled in relation to one another to avoid unnecessary breaks.

A more extensive discussion of this issue can be found in the ebook Low Temperature Kilnforming.


*”Effectively” in this context means a flat piece of the given dimension. The “thickness” of piece that is of uneven levels - as for a tack fuse - can be calculated to need firing as though it was a multiple of the actual total thickness. The multiple is based on the tack fusing profile.

Wednesday 18 October 2023

Long Anneal Soaks

Credit: Bullseye https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8hK9Klprvc


Long anneal times seem to be becoming popular. At least they are being recommended frequently by people in Facebook groups. They are recommending very long anneals to solve stress and breakage problems.

Are they effective?

This Bullseye video on some results from annealing research shows (at 13:00 minutes) that excessively long soaks can cause more stress than the recommended length does. The video shows a 1” slab annealed for 4 hours (the recommended time) has less stress than one annealed for 16 hours.

The thoughts are that this effect results from the cooler space under the shelf and glass than the top during long soaks. This induces temperature differences between the bottom and the top of the glass, if not across the surface. The recordings show that during the anneal soak the temperature at the bottom of the kiln is less than above the glass.  This difference on a long anneal soak is larger than the ΔT=5˚C required for a good anneal.

The remedy shown by the video is to introduce heating elements under the shelf, which are separately controlled. This is impractical and is not needed in smaller kilns. The solution for these smaller kilns is to use slower and graduated cooling rates from the end of the annealing soak – not longer annealing soaks. 

The slower rate can be selected from the table. Whether you choose the rates for one or two layers thicker, relates to your perception of risk. Do not extend the length of the annealing soak when you use the slower cooling rates.

This cooling process has been researched by Bullseye and is effective to keep the glass within the temperature distribution requirements. It is a three-stage process. Stage one is to 427˚C/800˚F. The rate for the actual or calculated thickness is given in the Bullseye table (see below).

Stage two is to 371˚C/700˚F. This is normally 1.8 times the rate of the first cool.

Stage three is the cooling from 371˚C/700˚F to room temperature. This can be up to 6 times the first stage cooling rate. However, I find that a final cooling rate of 330˚C/600˚F is faster than most kilns can achieve.

I do programme this final cooling into the schedule. 

  • It does not use more electricity unless the kiln is cooling faster than programmed. 
  • It does not cause the relays it click in and out if the cooling rate of the kiln is slower than programmed. 
  • It does protect the glass from too rapid cooling, or peeking. This is so especially from 100˚C/212˚F, when we are inclined to want the glass to cool faster than the closed kiln allows. 
  • The sound of the relays operating indicates the kiln is open too much for the safety of the glass.

 

The Bullseye table Annealing Thick Slabs shows the recommended soak times and cool rates for each cooling stage. It is applicable to all fusing glasses. After annealing for the appropriate time at the temperature for your glass, use the rates and temperatures from this table.

Sunday 1 October 2023

Kilnforming with 3mm Glass

 A power point presentation I made a few months ago to the group Lunch with a Glass Artist.

It is 33 slides long.

Kilnforming with 3mm Glass.pptx

Wednesday 9 August 2023

Fixing a Broken Piece


This conversation is reproduced by permission (with some editing out of extraneous information). It is presented as an example of how conducting a critique of your schedule can have dramatic effects on the results of your firing. 


This is the piece as it came out of the kiln.

Picture credit: Ike Garson

You may have seen the photo I posted of a large copper blue streaky piece that has cracked right across. …  I’m wondering if it would be better trying to bring the 2 pieces together instead of opening up the 2 pieces and inserting frit. I was thinking of firing it with a tack or contour schedule.

This is the crack that developed later through the frit and single layer centre.

Picture credit: Ike Garson


I have 4 questions:

A.   Even if I manage to fix it, do you think that fissure line will always be too weak and liable to break off at any point?

The strength of the joint will be dependent on the firing conditions.  To make it strong, the temperature should go to full fuse.  Tack fusing will leave the joint more visible and weaker.  To stop the joint rounding during heat up, you will need to dam the piece tightly to stop the normal expansion of the glass and ensure the glass is forced together during the higher temperatures.

B.     I have some large pieces of clear confetti. Would it benefit using them to bridge the 2 sections from below?

Anything you put on the bottom will have distinct outlines and visibility.  The temperature on the bottom can be 10C or more different from the top surface, which is why you can get crisp lines with the flip and fire technique.

C.    Would clear powder hide the crack or would it always be visible after firing?

Any additions to the top may be less visible, but adding clear powder makes the join more obvious.  You need to use powder of the same colour as the sheet glass.  Since you are using a streaky glass, you can’t use coloured power either as it is very difficult to imitate the steaks even with powders of the same colours. 

More information was given indicating the first contour fuse schedule in Celsius:

  1. 260 730 00.20
  2. FULL 515 00.60
  3. 260 150 End

This is the contour schedule I have used many times successfully but never for a piece during this week.

My critique of the schedule. 

Segment 1.

  • ·    It is too fast for the small distance to the side of the kiln. 
  • ·    It is too fast for a piece of varying thicknesses. Most expansion breaks occur above 300˚C, so a soak at ca.260˚C will help ensure the glass maintains an even temperature, especially with large differences in thickness. Then you can advance more quickly. 
  • ·   There is no bubble squeeze.
  • ·   The top temperature seems low for a good tack, or the soak is a bit short.  Long soaks allow the glass molecules to bind at the atomic level firmly. This is the principle used in pate de verre.
  • ·   It definitely needs to be on fibre paper covered with thinfire to allow air out.

Segment 2.

  • ·   The soak at 515˚C is better done at 482˚C for Bullseye.
  • ·   My tests have shown that contour firing a piece like this at rates and holds for 1.5 times the height of the piece is necessary for good results.

Segment 3.

  • ·   Also, my tests have shown that a three-stage cooling provides the best result.  Slow cooling keeps the glass within the 5°C difference required for avoiding stress.
  • ·   Annealing at the bottom end of the range combined with an appropriate length of soak and slow cooling gives a denser glass than soaking at the middle of the annealing range. 
  • ·   The best cooling comes from a three-stage cooling process.  This involves a slow rate for the first 55C, a rate of 1.8 times this for the second 55C, and a rate of 3 times this for the final cool to room temperature.

These points mean that I would recommend you fire for at least 10mm thick.  This recommendation is for a new piece, not a repair. In this repair case and for the conditions, I would choose 12mm as being more cautious. My schedule would look something like:

  1. 120˚C to 260˚C, 20’
  2. 300˚C to top temperature, 10’
  3. Full to 482˚C, 120’
  4. 20˚C to 427˚C,0’
  5. 36˚C to 370˚C, 0’
  6. 120˚C to room temperature, off

The anneal soak is for a piece 12mm thick.  The cool rates are for 21mm thick.  This is to compensate for the nearness of the glass to the edge of the kiln.  It will help to ensure the glass does not have excess stress locked into the piece during the cooling.

D. Do you think this schedule would work [for a repair]? It's adapted from a standard tack schedule.

  1. 222 677 00.30
  2. 222 515 00.40
  3. FULL 482 01.30
  4. 63 371 ENDS

Critique of the schedule.

Segment 1. 

  • ·   Too fast given earlier difficulties. 
  • ·   Too low for good adhesion unless you use about 10 hours soak. 
  • ·   Even at sintering temperature (690°C) you would need 2 hours.  But at sintering temperature you do not alter the surface 

Segment 2. 

  • ·   Too slow a cool from top temperature and risks devitrification. Should be FULL.
  • ·   You do not need the soak at 515˚C.  It only delays the annealing process.  It seems this idea of soaking at the upper portion of the annealing range was introduced by Spectrum over 2 decades ago. 
  • ·   Any advantage that might be achieved by the higher soak is cancelled by the FULL rate to the annealing soak. 
  • ·   Go straight to the anneal soak. 

Segment 3. 

  • ·   You need a more controlled 3 stage cooling to get the best result.

My schedule for repair would look something like this:

  1. 120˚C to 540˚C, 10’
  2. 300˚C to 780˚C, 10’
  3. Full to 482˚C, 210’
  4. 20˚C to 427˚C,0’
  5. 36˚C to 370˚C, 0’
  6. 120˚C to room temperature, off

I am making the assumption that 780˚C is full fuse in your kiln.  Anything less than full fuse will certainly show the crack.

 

A Look at Causes.

  • ·  The piece is far enough away from the elements.  It is not on the floor. These are not the causes.
  • ·  It is very near the sides of the kiln.  These are always cooler than the centre. There is always a risk of breaking in this case.  Very slow rates are needed. 
  • ·  There is a 3.5 times difference in thickness within the piece. This also requires slow rates.
  • ·  If the break were to have been on the heat up these elements of uneven heating, and rapid rates are a problem.  But the break occurred after the cool down. So, the annealing soak and cool is a problem. 
  • ·  I have suggested some alterations to the schedules to address these things.

 

Fixing for Yourself

  • ·   Dam it tightly to avoid expansion within the glass as it heats.  This holds the join together and causes the glass to gain a little height. 
  • ·   Place the piece on 1mm or thicker fibre paper topped with thinfire.  This will help avoid a bubble forming in the clear.
  • ·   I have suggested a schedule which is slower to ensure no further breaks.  It is slow to the strain point and fast after that. 
  • ·   It needs to be a full fuse to fully join the two pieces and ensure it is sound.
  • ·   The cool to annealing should be FULL.  Eliminate the soak in the upper annealing range. The effects of the time spent there is nullified by the rapid rate to the main annealing soak. 
  • ·   Anneal as for 12mm, but with slower cool rates (for 21mm) to ensure there are no stresses built into the piece by the nearness of the glass to the edge of the kiln.
  • ·   These methods and schedules will make it a strong whole.  But the join will still show on the bottom. 
  • ·   After fixing, if you are still not satisfied, break it up for incorporation in other projects.

Finally, and unfortunately, I do not think it can be satisfactorily repaired for a client.  The crack will show on the back. You will know it is a repair, rather than a whole. And that will reflect on your feeling about the piece, and possibly your reputation.

 

Conclusion

The commission was successfully re-made from scratch by the artist using some of my suggestions on scheduling. This is the resulting piece.

 

Picture credit: Ike Garson

 

Careful analysis of the conditions around a break are important to making a successful piece in the future. Many factors were considered, but the focus became the schedule. Analysis of each step of the schedule led to changes that resulted in a successful piece with the original vision and new materials.

Wednesday 2 August 2023

Writing Slumping Schedules

 

Slumping Schedules

When slumping fired pieces, it is most often appropriate to use a slow ramp rate to avoid too rapid expansion of the glass that might lead to a break. Most glass breaks on the ramp up are above 300°C/573°F. It is in this range that there is a rapid expansion of ceramic. This means a slow rate is protective for both glass and ceramic moulds.

This slow first ramp rate is followed by the rate determined as appropriate for profile and thickness. The table below gives rates and times for different profiles that are 6mm/0.25” thick. Of course, the slumping temperature will be altered for the glass according to the manufacturer’s stated range. The nature of the mould will also have a big effect on temperature and time. The soak times at the slump soak are those appropriate for the mould. The annealing soaks are related to the profile of the glass.

Slumping Schedules by Profile (Celsius) 6mm thick

Flat Fuse and Contour Tack

Actual thickness

Ramp 1 rate to 260°C

Soak time (min)

Ramp 2 rate

Slumping  temp. for mould *

Soak time (min)

Anneal as for contour:

6

240

20

240

 

30

9mm


Rounded Tack

Actual thickness

Ramp 1 rate to 260°C

Soak time (min)

Ramp 2 rate

Slumping  temp. for mould *

Soak time (min)

Anneal as for round tack:

6

150

20

150

 

30

9mm


Sharp Tack

Actual thickness

Ramp 1 rate to 260°C

Soak time (min)

Ramp 2 rate

Slumping  temp. for mould *

Soak time (min)

Anneal as for sharp tack:

6

120

20

120

 

30

9mm

 

Slumping Schedules by Profile (Fahrenheit) .025" thick

Flat Fuse and Contour Tack

Actual thickness

Ramp 1 rate to 500°F

Soak time (min)

Ramp 2 rate

Slumping  temp. for mould *

Soak time (min)

Anneal as for:

0.250”

432

20

432

 

30

0.375”


Rounded Tack

Actual thickness

Ramp 1 rate to 500°F

Soak time (min)

Ramp 2 rate

Slumping  temp. for mould *

Soak time (min)

Anneal for:

0.250”

270

20

270

 

30

0.375”


Sharp Tack

Actual thickness

Ramp 1 rate to 500°F

Soak time (min)

Ramp 2 rate

Slumping  temp. for mould *

Soak time (min)

Anneal for:

0.250”

216

20

216

 

30

0.375”

 

Rates

It is most often best to use a slow ramp rate to at least 500°C/933°F. This avoids the risk of inducing a too rapid differential expansion within the glass as it heats up. Experiments about the first ramp rate have shown firing as for two layers thicker than indicated by the profile schedule provides the best results. 

The rates for the anneal soak and cool are those that are one layer thicker than determined by the schedule for the profile. This has been shown by experimentation to give the best annealing result – i.e., least stress.

Temperatures

The slumping temperature needs to be altered for two factors:

  • ·        the glass according to the manufacturer’s stated range, and
  • ·        the nature of the mould.

Many manufacturers are giving recommended temperatures and times for slumping in their moulds. An example is the Bullseye “Quick Tip” which gives suggested temperatures and times for various sizes and natures of moulds that can form the basis of your independent scheduling of slumps. The rates are normally for flat uniformly thick pieces. This will need alteration for tack profile pieces.

Take note of the soak time in these recommendations. If it is less than 10 minutes, it is possible to reduce the temperature by about 10°C/18°F by using a 30-minute soak. This will reduce marking on the back of the glass.

Soaks / Holds

Slumping schedules tend to be more imprecise than many other operations in kilnforming because of variations in moulds and what is placed on them. This, consequently, makes observation of the slump more important. It is needed from a point below the target temperature – say 22˚C/40°F – to ensure the slump is stopped when it is complete, or extended if not. The controller manual will give the information on how to do both of these operations. In general, schedule slower ramp rates for thicker pieces in combination with the half hour soak. This means for each thickness greater than 6mm, the top temperature can be reduced slightly and still achieve a full slump.

The schedules here are applicable for pieces up to 9mm actual thickness.

Slumping of thicker pieces needs to apply the underlying scheduling method:

  • ·        Apply the rate for two layers thicker for the advance to 260°C/500°F.
  • ·        Continue the next ramp rate as for two layers thicker than calculated up to the slumping temperature.
  • ·        For annealing, also select the rates and times for one layer thicker than indicated by the profile.

For example:

  • ·        Rounded Tack of Bullseye, 12mm/0.5” thickness
  • ·        Schedule for 25mm/1” (2 times multiplier)

Celsius schedule for up to 9mm actual thickness:

Segment >

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Rate

150

150

ASAP

15

27

90

off

Temp

260

Top

482

427

370

RT

 

Time(mins)

20

30

240

0

0

0

 

and in Fahrenheit:

Segment >

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Rate

270

270

ASAP

27

49

162

off

Temp

500

Top

900

800

700

RT

 

Time(mins)

20

30

240

0

0

0

 

 

A further example:

  • ·        Sharp Tack of Bullseye, 0.5” thickness
  • ·        Schedule for 31mm/1.25” (2.5 times multiplier)

Celsius schedule for up to 9mm actual thickness:

Segment >

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Rate

78

78

ASAP

11

20

65

off

Temp

260

Top

482

427

370

RT

 

Time(mins)

20

30

300

0

0

0

 

and in Fahrenheit:

Segment >

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Rate

140

140

ASAP

20

36

117

off

Temp

500

Top

900

800

700

RT

 

Time(mins)

20

30

300

0

0

0

 

 

These examples show that considerable differences in scheduling are needed for different tack profiles. It also shows longer annealing soaks and slower cooling rates are required for sharp than rounded tack pieces.


More information is given in the e-book Low TemperatureKilnforming. 

* Of course, the slumping temperature will be altered for the glass according to the manufacturer’s stated range. The nature of the mould will also have a big effect on temperature and time.