Lead Corrosion

There are three important versions of lead corrosion: Red, Brown and White.  In addition, there are other factors that can weaken the lead came.

Red lead is a corrosion product that appears as a bright red surface, is dangerous, and requires water, air and often wood, to form. Sometimes water in the manufacturing process can develop red lead.   The chemical composition of red lead (Lead (II, IV) or triplumbic tetroxide is Pb₃O₄ or 2(PbO^.PbO₂).  It is a bright red or orange crystalline or amorphous colour.

Red lead is virtually insoluble in water or in ethanol. But, it is soluble in hydrochloric acid as is present in the stomach.  When ingested, it is dissolved in the stomach’s gastric acid and absorbed, leading to lead poisoning. It also dissolves in undiluted acetic acid, as well as in a dilute mixture of nitric acid and hydrogen peroxide.

When inhaled, lead (II,IV) oxide irritates the lungs. In the case of a high exposure, the victim experiences a metallic taste, chest pain, and abdominal pain.

High concentrations can be absorbed through skin as well, and it is important to follow safety precautions when working with lead-based paint.

This means that anyone dealing with read lead needs protection against skin contact, and breathing protection.  Methods need to be implemented to ensure no dust is raised, or that the area is thoroughly cleaned after dealing with red lead. Clothing should be discarded or washed separately from all others.

White lead corrosion, Lead(II) carbonate, is the chemical compound PbCO₃. It occurs naturally as the mineral cerussite.  It is a curious compound, as it is soluble in both acid and alkali.  It is possible, but rare, for excess whiting left on the lead to give rise to this form of corrosion. Generally, it will be neutralised by the weather.

Brown lead corrosion appears as a brown to dull red colour. 

Lead(IV) oxide, commonly called lead dioxide or plumbic oxide or anhydrous plumbic acid …, is a chemical compound with the formula PbO₂. … It is of an intermediate bond type, displaying both ionic (a lattice structure) and covalent (e.g. its low melting point and insolubility in water) properties. It is an odourless dark-brown crystalline powder which is nearly insoluble in water. …. Lead dioxide is a strong oxidizing agent which is used in the manufacture of matches, pyrotechnics, dyes and other chemicals. It also has several important applications [e.g.,] in the positive plates of lead acid batteries.    Source: wikipedia

Air, water and salt are needed to form brown lead. This means coastal areas and those with driving rain are prone to this kind of oxidisation. Lead dioxide also forms on pure lead, in dilute sulfuric acid.  So, with the acid rain that we are all subject to, it can form in almost any situation, but will be more obvious on areas exposed to the prevailing wind.  The corrosion is soluble in strong acetic acid.

Tin corrosion also has a brown, almost copper appearance, very similar to brown lead.  The tin corrosion will be confined to the solder joint and surrounding area rather than all along the length of the came. 

Corrosion resistant lead

The ideal composition of lead to resist corrosion is 98.5% lead with up to 1% tin. This, combined with fractions of a percent of antimony and traces of silver, bismuth and copper provides a combination of metals and trace elements to resist corrosion of the lead as well as stiffening it.  Conservators indicate that, for whatever reason, cast lead incorporating trace elements is the most resistant to corrosion.  This is evidenced by the longevity of medieval lead cames.

Solder composition

Conservators also indicate that the higher the lead content of solder, and the better the match it is to the lead came, especially the almost pure lead came, the more resistant it is to lead came fracture at the margins of the solder joints.

Stretching the lead came, rather than simply straightening it, not only weakens the lead, it leaves very small pits in the surface of the lead.   These small pits allow the elements of the environment to penetrate the lead’s surface and act as sites for the beginning of corrosion.

Stretching also causes stress points near the solder joint.  The stretching creates stress along the length of the lead.  When the lead is heated in the soldering process the molecules of lead sort themselves into a stress-free arrangement.  As heat does not travel far or fast in lead, there is a stress point formed a short distance from the soldered lead joint where the already stressed and the stress-free lead meet.

Conclusion

Clearly there are a range of factors that relate to the resilience of lead came.  98.5% lead with trace elements including tin and antimony provides the greatest strength and resistance to corrosion.  Stretching the came can lead to general weakness and introduce pits into the surface forming sites for corrosion. Stretching can also lead to stress points near the solder joints.

All these indicate that resilient leaded glass windows can be produced by:

the use of lead came with 1.5% of trace elements,

the use of high lead content solders, and

the straightening (rather than stretching) of the came.

Soldering Iron Maintenance

“How do I maintain my soldering iron?  I see so many different methods online that I find it confusing.”

Regular cleaning

There at least two reasons for regular cleaning of the solder bit.

The first is to avoid the build-up of carbon and other contaminants which impedes the transfer of heat from the soldering bit to the solder and surfaces to be joined.

Many soldering stations come with a sponge which, when wet, is used to quickly swipe the iron's tip clean. A small amount of fresh solder is usually then applied to the clean tip in a process called tinning.

The second is to maintain the soldering bit in good condition.

The copper that forms the heat-conducting bulk of the soldering iron's tip will dissolve into the molten solder, slowly eroding the tip if it is not properly cleaned. As a result of this, most soldering iron tips are plated to resist wearing down under use. To avoid damaging the plating, abrasives such as sand paper or wire brushes should not be used to clean them. Tips without this plating or where the plating has been broken-through may need to be periodically sanded or filed to keep them smooth.

To avoid using abrasives, cleaning with sal ammoniac is recommended. This comes in a block. You rub the hot soldering iron bit on the surface. As the surface becomes hot, it begins the cleaning process, noted by the smoke rising from the block. When the block under the bit becomes clear, the bit will be clean and can be tinned as above. If this is done at the end of each session of soldering, the bit will last longer and will be ready for soldering immediately when you next need to use it.

Turn off the Iron

The most important element in the deterioration of soldering iron bits is long idle times. This is where you leave the iron on, and not in use, for a long time.

Have everything ready when you start soldering, so the iron will be used continuously, and will not sit there building up heat, while you get ready to use it again. An idle iron without internal temperature control will keep heating to its maximum capacity and, without anything to transfer the heat to, it will start burning off the tinning after a short while. If you will not be using the iron for a while turn it off until you are ready again.

Tinning

If a bit has not been properly tinned, solder will not wet to it. Without solder on the bit heat transfer from the bit to the work surface may become extremely difficult and time consuming, or even impossible.

You will understand that proper wiping and continuous wetting is important and a lot easier than continually having to clean and re-tin the bit, especially at the risk of damage to the plated surface because of accidentally scratching, or over abrading it.

When you notice that an iron is not performing as well as it did when it was new you will find that poor thermal transfer from the soldering bit to the work is usually the cause. Improper care and maintenance and the lack of a periodic cleaning of the bit can cause a layer of oxides to form, which will inhibit the transfer of heat through the bit.

These factors are reasons why keeping a film of solder on the bit (tinning) is important in maintaining the long life of the soldering bit.

Courtesy of American Beauty Tools

Cleaning the whole Bit.

Each soldering bit has a shank which fits into a heating collar of one kind or another.  The bit should be removed at periodic intervals and the build-up of oxides should be cleaned from the shank.  The oxides inhibit the transfer of heat from the elements to the soldering bit.  This cleaning work, of course should be done when the iron is cool.  You can use fine abrasives on the shank to remove the oxides.  You can also make a tube of fine sand paper to clean the inside of the heating collar.  This should not be done on ceramic heated soldering irons such as the Hakko.

Wattage

Another element in the maintenance of soldering irons is to have an iron of high enough wattage to readily melt the solder and be able to reheat fast enough to maintain the necessary melting temperature. An iron with enough power will reduce the strain on the heating element of the iron and the strain on the user while waiting for the iron to catch up.

For example, an 80-watt iron is sufficient to solder with, but it will continue to get hotter, as it has no temperature control, becoming too hot for stained glass soldering, and often causing breaks in the glass. An iron of this type is often used with a rheostat in order to prevent overheating while it is idling. However, this  reduces the power to the iron and so increases the time needed to recover sufficient heat to continue soldering.  Also, a rheostat only slows the heat up, it does not limit it, so eventually the iron will still become too hot if left to idle.

Most temperature-controlled irons seem to be produced in 100 watts or higher. These irons attempt to maintain a constant temperature. Their ability to do so depends on the wattage and the amount of heat drained from the bit during soldering. The temperature-controlled irons are normally supplied with a 700°F bit (identified by the number 7 stamped on the internal end of the bit) and is sufficient to melt solder without long recovery times. You can obtain bits of different temperature ratings, commonly 800°F and 600°F. The 800°F bit is particularly useful when doing a lot of copper foil soldering, because it recovers to a higher temperature, allowing much more continuous soldering action.

An increasingly popular soldering iron has a ceramic heating element, requiring less time to recover heat, and with a lower wattage.  Most of these have a temperature dial for setting the soldering temperature, and most find 410C suitable for copper foil work, although 380C may be enough for leaded glass soldering.

You can also get several sizes of tips for different detail of work.  Upon first sight a fine tip would be useful for fine copper foil work.

But fine tips loose heat quickly, requiring the user to wait while the tip regains the required heat.  A 6mm to 8mm wide bit is useful to maintain the heat during the running of a long bead.  Of course, the bit is wider than the bead being run, but the solder has enough surface tension, while molten, to draw up into a bead on the copper foil without spreading – unless too much solder is being applied. Really big bits of 12mm or larger are not practical – long initial heat up times, and too much area is covered, even though there is enough heat stored for really long solder beads.

Revised3.1.25

Solder Alloys, 2

This is an updated version of a table on various possibly useful solders.

Solder Alloy	Composition	Solidus	Liquidus	Uses
25/75	Sn/Pb	183C	266C	general plumbing, car radiators
30/70	Sn/Pb	183C	256C	general plumbing, car radiators
30/50/20	Sn/Pb/Zn	177C	288C	economical solder for aluminium, Zinc and Cast iron
40/60	Sn/Pb	183C	238C	brass, plumbing, car radiators
50/50	Sn/Pb	183C	216C	general purpose, plumbing, not for gold, silver
50/48.5/1.5	Sn/Pb/Cu	183C	215C	reduces copper erosion on irons
60/40	Sn/Pb	183C	190C	electronics, good wetting, duller surface than 63/37
63/37	Sn/Pb	183C	183C	eutetic, electronics, stainless steel, bright joints
62/37/1	Sn/Pb/Cu	183C	183C	similar to 63/37 and reduces erosion on irons
90/10	Sn/Pb	183C	213C
95/5	Sn/Pb	238C	238C	plumbing and heating
96.5/3/0.5	Sn/Ag/Cu	217C	220C	recommended lead free for electronics
95.8/3.5/0.7	Sn/Ag/Cu	217C	218C	wave and dip soldering
95.6/3.5/0.9	Sn/Ag/Cu	217C	217C	eutectic
95.5/3.8/0.7	Sn/Ag/Cu	217C	217C	European preference for wave and dip soldering
96.5/3.5	Sn/Ag	221C	221C	wide use, poor wetting, strong lead free joints, stainless steel
95/5	Sn/Ag	221C	254C	strong, ductile joints on copper, stainless steel
94/6	Sn/Ag	221C	279C	strong, ductile joints on copper, stainless steel
93/7	Sn/Ag	221C	302C	strong, ductile joints on copper, stainless steel

Ag = Silver
Cd = Cadmium
Cu =Copper
PB = Lead
Sn = Tin
Sb = Antimony

Common stained glass solder compositions

Hazards of Flux Fumes

Note:  These health risks are those associated with industrial exposure – frequent and for extended periods.  They do not apply directly to occasional and shorter periods of exposure.

Risks are assessed as acute and chronic.  Acute means immediate reaction.  Chronic means the effects are cumulative and may take years to appear.
 

Composition of Flux

The major components of commercial flux are varying combinations and proportions of zinc chloride (or ammonium chloride), hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, and hydrobromic acid.  It comes in many forms and many brand names.  It is important to use water soluble flux in stained glass work to enable thorough cleaning.
 
 

 

Zinc Chloride Risks

Zinc chloride inhalation from smoke screen generators or smoke bombs may cause transient cough, sore throat, hoarseness, a metallic taste, and chest pain.  Exposure to high zinc chloride concentrations produces a chemical pneumonitis with marked dyspnoea, a productive cough, fever, chest pain and cyanosis. Pneumothorax and the adult respiratory distress syndrome (ARDS) have been reported. Fatalities have occurred….
http://www.inchem.org/documents/ukpids/ukpids/ukpid86.htm#:~:text=Toxicity%20Zinc%20chloride%20is%20corrosive,anorexia%2C%20fatigue%20and%20weight%20loss.
 

Ammonium Chloride Risks

Exposure to Ammonium Chloride is moderately hazardous, causing irritation, shortness of breath, cough, nausea, and headache. Most exposure is a result of contact with the fume form of this chemical (Ammonium Muriate Fume and Sal Ammoniac Fume), which is a finely divided particulate dispersed in the air. The fumes are capable of causing severe eye irritation. Consistent exposure can cause an asthma-like allergy or affect kidney function.
 
In the event of accidental contact, get immediate medical attention and follow these first aid measures:
·        Skin Contact: Immediately flush skin with water and disinfectant soap and use an emollient on irritated area.
·        Eye Contact: Rinse eye(s) with water for at least 15-20 minutes. Protect unexposed eye.
·        Ingestion: Rinse mouth thoroughly with water. Do NOT induce vomiting.
·        Inhalation: Move to fresh air and administer artificial respiration if needed.
https://www.msdsonline.com/2017/05/05/chemical-spotlight-ammonium-chloride/#:~:text=Exposure%20to%20Ammonium%20Chloride%20is,particulate%20dispersed%20in%20the%20air.
 
 

Hydrochloric Acid Risks

Hydrochloric acid is corrosive to the eyes, skin, and mucous membranes.  Acute (short-term) inhalation exposure may cause eye, nose, and respiratory tract irritation and inflammation and pulmonary edema in humans.  Acute oral exposure may cause corrosion of the mucous membranes, oesophagus, and stomach and dermal contact may produce severe burns, ulceration, and scarring in humans.
 

Acute Effects: 

Hydrochloric acid is corrosive to the eyes, skin, and mucous membranes.  Acute inhalation exposure may cause coughing, hoarseness, inflammation and ulceration of the respiratory tract, chest pain, and pulmonary edema in humans.  Acute oral exposure may cause corrosion of the mucous membranes, oesophagus, and stomach, with nausea, vomiting, and diarrhoea reported in humans.  [Skin] contact may produce severe burns, ulceration, and scarring…. Acute animal tests in rats, mice, and rabbits, have demonstrated hydrochloric acid to have moderate to high acute toxicity from inhalation and moderate acute toxicity from oral exposure.

 

Chronic Effects: 

(Non cancer): Chronic occupational exposure to hydrochloric acid has been reported to cause gastritis, chronic bronchitis, dermatitis, and photosensitization in workers.  Prolonged exposure to low concentrations may also cause dental discoloration and erosion.  Chronic inhalation exposure caused hyperplasia of the nasal mucosa, larynx, and trachea and lesions in the nasal cavity in rats.  The Reference Concentration (RfC) for hydrochloric acid is 0.02 milligrams per cubic meter (mg/m 3) … The RfC is an estimate … of a continuous inhalation exposure to the human population (including sensitive subgroups) that is likely to be without appreciable risk of deleterious noncancer effects during a lifetime.  It is not a direct estimator of risk but rather a reference point to gauge the potential effects.  At exposures increasingly greater than the RfC, the potential for adverse health effects increases.  Lifetime exposure above the RfC does not imply that an adverse health effect would necessarily occur.
https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2016-09/documents/hydrochloric-acid.pdf
 

 
Phosphoric Acid Risks

Phosphoric acid can be very hazardous in the case of skin contact, eye contact, and ingestion. It can also cause irritation if vapours are inhaled. This chemical can cause damage to the skin, eyes, mouth, and respiratory tract. Because of the potential hazards posed by this chemical, it is important to use care when handling it.
 
Repeated or prolonged exposure to phosphoric acid mist can lead to chronic eye irritation, severe skin irritation, or prolonged respiratory tract issues.  In case of accidental exposure to phosphoric acid, follow these first aid guidelines:

Inhalation — Seek fresh air and immediate medical attention.

Eye Contact — Remove contact lenses if present. Immediately flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes and get medical attention.

Skin Contact — Wash skin with soap and water. Cover any irritated skin with an emollient. Seek medical attention. 

Ingestion — Do NOT induce vomiting. Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person. Seek medical attention if any adverse health symptoms occur.
https://www.msdsonline.com/2015/06/17/phosphoric-acid-safety-tips/
 
  

Citric Acid

Citric acid can be a minor skin irritant, causing itchy skin and even minor burns to those that are sensitive to it. Hands should be washed immediately if citric acid comes into contact with bare skin. Protective gloves should be worn during handling to avoid any accidental contact. The acid can also irritate the walls of the throat if ingested or burn the lining of your stomach if ingested in large quantities.
 
Eye Irritation - Citric acid is a severe eye irritant. Accidental contact with the eyes can occur … by touching the eyes after the acid has contacted the fingertips. …  Protective eyewear should be worn when working with citric acid under laboratory conditions. Eyes should be flushed with water immediately if they happen to come in contact with the acid.
https://sciencing.com/hazards-citric-acid-8165149.html

Remember that this irritation is equivalent to squirting lemon juice into your eye.  It is not a chronic risk.
 

Hydrobromic Acid (HBr)

Hydrobromic acid and hydrogen bromide gas are highly corrosive substances that can cause severe burns upon contact with all body tissues. The aqueous acid and gas are strong eye irritants and [tear producers]. Contact of concentrated hydrobromic acid or concentrated HBr vapor with the eyes may cause severe injury, resulting in permanent impairment of vision and possible blindness. Skin contact with the acid or HBr gas can produce severe burns. Ingestion can lead to severe burns of the mouth, throat, and gastrointestinal system and can be fatal. Inhalation of HBr gas can cause extreme irritation and injury to the upper respiratory tract and lungs, and exposure to high concentrations may cause death. … Hydrogen bromide has not been found to be carcinogenic or to show reproductive or developmental toxicity in humans.
https://web.stanford.edu/dept/EHS/cgi-bin/lcst/lcss/lcss47.html#:~:text=The%20aqueous%20acid%20and%20gas,gas%20can%20produce%20severe%20burns.
 
 
 

Precautions to be taken by glass workers

The risks outlined above are related to dealing with concentrated amounts of the materials in industrial settings.  Risk levels are much reduced in the craft setting.  The risks are mainly centred on breathing and eye exposure. 
 
It is important to wear masks of the quality that will deal with inorganic fumes.  In Europe these are designated as FFP2.  In general masks rated at N95, P95, or R95 are the level required for filtering out 95% of particles that are larger than 3microns.  Dust masks are not sufficient protection. 
 

Usually overlooked is eye protection.  The risks outlined here show that risks to eyes are equal to - or in some cases greater than – respiratory ones.  Eye protection is as important as breathing filters.  To fully protect the eyes, goggles of some sort are the minimum requirement.  Glasses will not be sufficient to prevent fumes reaching eyes.

 
For a “one stop solution” a full-face mask may be the simplest solution.  The filters on these are long lasting and replaceable.  They can be put on as one unit and are available in various face sizes.
 

At soldering temperatures, there are no lead or tin fumes created.  It is the fumes from the flux that are the risks in soldering.  These risks are small and can be dealt with by using adequate ventilation, masks, and goggles.

Lead Free Solders

 If you have problems with excessive corrosion of the solder bit when using lead-free solder, try a solder with 1% or 2% copper.

picture credit: reddit

 Without lead in the composition of the solder, the copper is gradually robbed from the bit during soldering. The solder gradually erodes the copper from the soldering bit in the absence of lead. In some, way the lead prevents the erosion of copper and so copper in the solder is not needed.

Picture credit\: RS Components

 Once the copper is eroded, the steel corrodes rapidly. The tips are steel with a copper plate. Eventually the steel is exposed. Then the corrosion occurs really rapidly.

 Having a bit of copper in the lead-free solder prevents the robbing of copper from the tip. There are a variety of lead-free solders available. Many have a little copper in their composition to prevent the erosion of the copper on the bit. There is a listing of some of them here.

 

 

Soldering Iron Temperatures

Why use higher temperatures for copper foil using 60/40 than lead came using 50/50 or 40/60? Melting temperatures Part of this is the physical characteristics of the solder The graph shows that all compositions of tin/lead alloy solder (above 20% tin) solidify at the same temperature - 183°C.  Pure lead melts at 327.5°C and pure tin at 232°C.  The various proportions of the two metals melt at different temperatures until at approximately 62% tin, the melting and solidification temperatures are the same.  This is ideal for running a bead in copper foiling, because there is a minimum amount of time for the liquid solder to change shape before it solidifies. Melting temperatures of some solders ·        At 40% tin and 60% lead (40/60) the melting temperature is 238°C.  ·        At 50/50 the melting temperature is 212°C.  ·        At 60/40 the melting temperature is 188°C, just 5°C above the solidification temperature. These figures show the 60/40 solder requires a lower temperature to melt than 50/50 does (24°C difference).  Why should I run the iron at a hotter temperature for 60/40 then? There are two separate elements at work here – the mass of solder being melted and the effects of the pasty range of solder compositions. In soldering lead came you are melting small masses of solder with short pauses between each melting that allow the iron to partially recover. This means running the iron at 370°C is sufficient to maintain a melting temperature above 238°C for 40/60 solder and 212°C for 50/50. In copper foil you are melting much greater amounts of solder, which takes heat out of the iron more quickly than in leaded glass.  The fact is that running a bead requires melting a much greater volume of solder.  The iron needs to run hot to be able to consistently melt the solder without significant periods when the iron is too cool to melt the solder quickly.  This is the reason that irons are run hotter in copper foil. It still does not explain why it is recommended to run the iron hotter for 60/40 than for 50/50 as their melting temperatures are so close. The explanation lies in the pasty range illustrated in the graph shown above.  You can run an iron hotter than needed to melt the solder, because the 60/40 requires fewer degrees to cool and solidify than 50/50.  This allows you to work quickly and still have a good rounded bead. The greater pasty range of 50/50 means that you must be careful about the amount of heat you put into the solder, because the solder will continue to move for a longer time than the 60/40.  The 27°C difference between melting and solidification shows solidification is not instantaneous. This pasty range allows flow while the solder cools. This means that the bead will be less rounded, and it will show minor temperature differences in the wrinkled surface.  If you put even more heat than the 410°C that is normally used for 60/40, it will take even longer for the solder to solidify.  The surfaces effects will then be even more obvious with greater heat.

The short answer

The explanations for running hotter with 60/40 than those solders with more lead centre around the pasty range of solder.  When the pasty range is small, you can put more heat into the solder bead and so work more quickly and still get a good bead.  With wider pasty ranges you need to reduce the temperature of the iron to reduce the heat put into the solder and so keep the pasty range as small as possible.

Melting Points of Solders

Common solders for stained glass are mixtures of tin and lead, respectively:

• 63/37: melts at 183°C (362°F)
• 60/40: melts between 183°C (362°F) and 188°C (376°F)
• 50/50: melts between 183°C (362°F) and 212°C (421°F)
• 40/60: melts between 183°C (362°F) and 234°C (454°F)
• lead-free solder (useful in jewellery, eating containers, and other environmental uses): melts between 118°C (245°F) and 220°C (428°F), depending on composition.

The 63/37 and 60/40 solders are most often used in copper foil work because of their smaller melting range. This allows the solder to set more quickly than the solders with higher lead content. They tend to give smoother beads also.

50/50 and 40/60 solders are more often used in leaded panel work. Their wider range of melting temperatures allows the solder to spread and become flat.

Other information on solders:

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2015/07/physical-characteristics-of-solder.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2018/02/lead-free-solder.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/soldering-ingredients-and-methods.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2015/07/lead-free-solder.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/03/solder-alloys-1.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/03/solder-alloys-2.html

Soldering Lead Came

Soldering lead came is different from soldering electronics or copper foil. For electronic soldering less heat is needed, cleanliness is all important, suitable flux is required, and the iron is held differently, among other things.

Soldering lead came 

The lead needs to be clean and bright to start with. If it's fairly new lead it should be solder-able without more than a scrubbing of the joints with a brass wire brush. However, if the lead is dull and oxidized, you should scrape the lead in the area to be soldered with a nail, the blade of a lead knife or other sharp edged tool until the bright metal is revealed.

an example of paste flux

Example of a tallow stick.  It has the appearance of a candle, but without the wick.

Example of the application of tallow to a joint

Then the flux can be applied.  Paste flux or tallow works best as neither flows in its cold state.  This means that you can flux the whole panel at one time without the liquid flowing away or drying.  Once the whole panel is fluxed, you do not need to stop during the soldering process.

Example of a gas powered soldering iron. The flat face of the soldering bolt is held in full contact with the joint.

An electric soldering iron is held over-handed (as you would a bread knife) in order to get the handle low enough to have the tip flat on the lead. This will be a 15 to 20 degree elevation from the horizontal. Allow the weight of the soldering iron to do the work for you. 

Let it rest on the joint after you apply the solder between the lead and the iron. In order to heat both pieces of lead you may have to rock the tip slightly to contact all leads being soldered. Take the solder away from the iron so it doesn't become attached to the joint. As soon as the solder spreads, lift the iron straight up. This process will take only a few seconds, much less than 5.

Example of smooth flat solder joints.

Avoid "painting" or dragging the iron across the joint. The object is to have a shiny, smooth, slightly rounded solder joint. Moving the iron and solder around does two things.  It makes for a weak joint as the solder does not have the chance to become stable and so forms a "pasty" joint.  Moving the iron around during the soldering of the joint often provides sharp points where the iron was moved quickly off the join. There should be no points sticking up from the solder joint. If a solder joint is not satisfactory you can re-flux and re-heat. Don't apply too much solder. It's easier to add more solder than to remove excess.