Slumping Splits

 This is a description of the analysis process to determine the possible causes of a split during a slump.     

Credit: Maureen Nolan

Observe the piece.

It is a tack fused piece, about 20cm (8") square, which has been slumped. 

The base layer is of clear. The piece has three additional layers, but the fourth layer is only of small glass dots and rectangles.  The central, heart, area is made of three layers.

A split has appeared during the slump. It is split irregularly through pieces rather than around them.  It is split through the thickness but only partially across the piece.

In one area the (brown) third of four layers spans the split.  Further to the left a brown second layer seems to have broken, but still spans the split.

Threads and particles of glass are connecting across the split. 

The edges are probably sharp, although only so much can be deduced from a description and one photograph.

History of the Piece

The tack fused piece has been put in a mould to form a platter and has split during the slump.

The schedule in essence was:

139ºC/250ºF to 565ºC/1050ºF for a 30’ soak (some pauses but all at a ramp rate of 139ºC/250ºF)

83ºC/150ºF to 688ºC/1270ºF for 10’

222ºC/400ºF to 516ºC /960ºF for 60’

111ºC/200ºF to 427ºC/800ºF for 10’

167ºC/300ºF to 38ºC/100ºF, off

 

The assumption is that the tack fused piece received a similar annealing soak and cool.

 

Diagnosis

Too fast

Slumping a tack fused piece of three layers plus decorative elements on top needs to be fired as for 19mm (6 layers) minimum (twice the actual).  My work for the Low Temperature Kilnforming* eBook showed best results are achieved by slumping as for one more layer (21 mm/0.825” in this case).  This gives a proposed schedule of:  

120ºC/216ºF to 630ºC/1166ºF (not 688ºC/1270ºF) but for 30 to 45 minutes

AFAP (not 400ºF) to anneal 516ºC/960ºF for 3.5 hours (not 1 hour)

20ºC/36ºF to 427ºC/800ºF, 0

36ºC/65ºF to 371ºC/700ºF,0

120ºC/216ºF to room temperature

 
Commentary on the proposed schedule:

The slump is relatively shallow, so a low temperature with a long soak is the most suitable schedule for this piece.  The drop to anneal is at a sedate rate of 222ºC/400ºF.  This is inappropriate, generally.  Just as there is a rapid rate to top temperature to avoid devitrification, so there needs to be an AFAP drop to anneal, also to avoid devitrification.  The anneal soak was not the cause of the break, but it is worthwhile noting the recommended anneal soak and cool rates are longer and slower than that used.  This is a note for the future.

 

Suspect Tack Fuse

If the tack fuse schedule was like the slump schedule, the slump was started with inadequate annealing in the previous firing.  More importantly, the evidence for an inadequate tack fuse is that the split under the brown rectangle was through the clear and red on top, but the split left the brown intact.  This means it was not securely fixed to the red below it. 

 

If the condition of the tack fuse is not sound, it is probable that difficulties will be experienced in the slump.  The poster commented “… why do [these splits] happen only when slumping – it came through tack just fine.”    It is probable the tack fuse was not “just fine”.  The way to be sure the previous firing was just fine, is to test for stress.

 

There is enough clear in this piece that an inspection for stress could be conducted by use of polarising filters before the slump.  Testing for stress is a simple viewing of the piece between two sheets of polarised light filters.  Doing this test will give information on the amount of stress, if any, in the flat tack fused blank.

 

Slump Split

During slumping the glass is subjected to more movement and therefore stress than while being fired flat.  The glass is often only barely out of the brittle zone when being slumped and that makes the stress more evident during the early part of the slump. This requires careful inspection of the failed piece.

 

Look at the glass surrounding the split.  My opinion is that the edges are sharp.  If rounded, the threads of glass from the edges of white would have melted to the edges of the split rather than spanning it. 

 

It appears the top layers were hot enough for less viscous glass on top to form stringers that span the break as the underlying layers split.  It is probable that the split was during the plastic phase of the slump for the upper glass, but  the lower layers were not as hot and suffered thermal shock. 

 

This split of lower layers, while the overlying ones are whole, is often seen in tack fuses, although the top ones do slump into the gap as the firing proceeds.  In a slump there is not enough heat, time or space, for the brown piece to slump into the gap.  Both splits appear to be a result of too rapid firing.  In the flat fusing work, the split results from too fast a ramp rate during the brittle phase of the glass.  But the slumping splits appear to occur after the brittle phase, almost as a slow tear in the glass. This may result from the differential heating of the layers if not fully combined.  It may also indicate the split developed slowly. 

 

One other observation is that these splits seem to be more frequent during the slumping of tack fused pieces.  As speculated above, it may be the inadequate tacking together of the pieces of glass during the first firing, which can form a discontinuity in transmitting heat.  And it may be that the different thicknesses across the tack fused piece allow stress to build from differential heating of the glass.

 

Rates

 

Whichever of these speculative effects may be true, it appears the ramp rates are suspect.  As mentioned elsewhere* (and in Kilnforming Principles and Practice to be published soon), the reasons for these splits are not fully known.  Even microscopic examination by Ted Sawyer has not produced a satisfactory explanation.  The only practical approach that has been successful is to slow the ramp rates.  However, the appearance of these splits is essentially random (with our current understanding), so prevention is difficult.

 

Conclusion

The probable cause of the split in the slump has been that the ramp rates were too fast.  This may have been made worse by the too short anneal soak, and the too fast cool of the tack fused blank.

 

Remedy

There is no practical rescue for this piece.  Prevention in the future is to use ramp rates that are for at least one layer thicker, if it is full fused.  If it is tack fused, firing as for twice the thickest part plus one additional layer is advisable to slow the ramp rates, allowing all the glass to heat and form at the same rate.

 

 

*Low Temperature Kilnforming; an Evidence-Based Approach to Scheduling.  Available from:

Bullseye

and

Etsy

Slump Point Test

At a time when we are all going to be trying a variety of glass of unknown compositions to reduce costs of kiln working, the knowledge of how to determine the slump point temperature (normally called the softening point in the glass manufacturing circles) and the approximate annealing temperature becomes more important.  The slump point test can be used to determine both the slumping point and the annealing soak temperature.  This was required when the manufacturers did not publish the information, and it continues to be useful for untested glasses.

The method requires the suspension at a defined height of a strip of glass, the inclusion of an annealing test, and the interruption of the schedule to enter the calculated annealing soak temperature.

A strip of 3 mm transparent glass is required.  This does not mean that it has to be clear, but remember that dark glass absorbs heat differently from clear or lightly tinted glass. The CoE characteristics given are normally those of the clear glass for the fusing line concerned.  The strip should be 305 mm x 25 mm.  

Suspend the strip 25 mm above the shelf, leaving a span of 275 mm. This can be done with kiln brick cut to size, kiln furniture, or a stack of fibre paper.   Make sure you coat any kiln furniture with kiln wash to keep the glass from sticking.

The 305mm strip suspended 25mm above the shelf with kiln furniture.

Place some kiln furniture on top of the glass where it is suspended to keep the strip from sliding off the support at each end. Place a piece of wire under the centre of this span to make observation of the point that the glass touches down to the shelf easier.

The strip held down by placing kiln furniture on top of the glass, anchoring it in place while the glass slumps.

If you are testing bottles, you may find it more difficult to get such a long strip.  My suggestion is that you cut a bottle on a tile saw to give you a 25 mm strip through the length of the bottle.  Do not worry about the curves, extra thickness, etc.  Put the strip in the kiln and take it to about 740C to flatten it. Reduce the temperature to about 520C to soak there for 20 minutes.  Then turn the kiln off.  

Also add a two layer stack of the transparent glass near the suspended strip of glass to act as a check on whether the annealing soak temperature is correct. This stack should be of two pieces about 100 mm square. If you are testing bottles, a flattened side will provide about the same thickness.  This process provides a check on the annealing temperature you choose to use.  If the calculated temperature is correct there should be little if any stress showing in the fired piece.

The completed test set up with an annealing test and wire set at the midpoint of the suspended glass to help with determining when the glass touches down.

The schedule will need to be a bit of guess work.  The reasons for the suggested temperatures are given after this sample initial schedule which needs to be modified during the firing.

In Celsius
Ramp 1: 200C per hour to 500C, no soak
Ramp 2: 50C per hour to 720C, no soak
Ramp 3: 300C per hour to 815C or 835C, 10 minute soak
Ramp 4: 9999 to 520C, 30 minute soak
Ramp 5: 80C per hour to 370C, no soak
Ramp 6: off.

In Fahrenheit

Ramp 1: 360F per hour to 932F, no soak
Ramp 2: 90F per hour to 1328F, no soak
Ramp 3: 540F per hour to 1500F or 1535FC, 10 minute soak
Ramp 4: 9999 to 968F, 30 minute soak
Ramp 5: 144F per hour to 700F, no soak
Ramp 6: off.

Fire at the moderate rate initially, and then at 50C/90Fper hour until the strip touches down. This is to be able to accurately record the touch down temperature.  If you fire quickly, the glass temperature will be much less than the air temperature that the pyrometer measures.  Firing slowly allows the glass to be nearly the same temperature as the air.  

Observe the progress of the firing frequently from 500C/932F onward.  If it is float or bottle glass you are testing you can start observing from about 580C. Record the temperature when the middle of the glass strip touches the shelf. The wire at the centre of the span will help you determine when the glass touches down.  This touch down temperature is the slump point of your glass.  You now know the temperature to use for gentle slumps with a half hour soak.  More angular slumps will require a higher temperature or much more time.

Once you have recorded the slump point temperature, you can skip to the next ramp (the fast ramp 3).  This is to proceed to a full fuse for soda lime glasses. Going beyond tack fusing temperatures is advisable, as tack fuses are much more difficult to anneal and so may give an inaccurate assessment of the annealing. Most glasses, except float, bottles and borosillicate will be fully fused by 815C. If it is float, bottles or borosilicate that you are testing, try 835C. If it is a lead bearing glass, lower temperatures than the soda lime glass should be used. In all these cases observation at the top temperature will tell you if you have reached the full fuse temperature. If not add more time or more heat to get the degree of fuse desired.

While the kiln is heating toward the top temperature you can do the arithmetic to determine the annealing point.  To do this, subtract 40C/72F from the recorded touch down temperature to obtain an approximate upper annealing point.  The annealing point will be 33C/60F below the upper point.  This is approximate as the touch down temperature is, by the nature of the observation. approximate.  

The next operation is to set this as the annealing soak temperature in the controller. This will be the point at which it usually possible to interrupt the schedule and change the temperature for the annealing soak that you guessed at previously. Sometimes though, you need to turn the controller off and reset the new program.  Most times the numbers from the last firing are retained, so that all you need to do is to change the annealing soak temperature.

The annealing soak should be for 60 minutes to ensure an adequate anneal. This may be excessive for 3 mm glass, but as the anneal test is for 6 mm, the longer soak is advisable. The annealing cool should be 83C/hr down to 370C. This is a moderate rate which will help to ensure the annealing is done properly. The kiln can be turned off at that temperature, as the cooling of the kiln will be slow enough to avoid any thermal shock to the annealing test piece.

When cooled, check the stack for stress. This is done by using two polarised light filters. See here for the method. 

Squares of glass showing different levels of stress from virtually none to severe
 (no light emanating for no stress to strong light from the corners indicating a high degree of stress.)

If the anneal test piece is stressed, there could be a number of reasons for the inadequate annealing. It could be that the glass has devitrified so much that it is not possible to fuse this glass at all. If you also test the suspended strip for stresses and there is very little or none, it is evidence that you can kiln form single layers of this glass. You now know the slumping temperature and a suitable annealing temperature and soak for it, even though fusing this glass is not going to be successful.

Other reasons for stress due to inadequate annealing could be that the observations or calculations were incorrect.  

• Of course, before doing any other work, you should check your arithmetic to ensure the calculations have been done correctly. I'm sure you did, but it is necessary to check.  If they are not accurate, all the following work will be fruitless.

• The observation of the touch down of the suspended strip can vary by quite a bit - maybe up to 15C.  To check this, you can put other annealing test pieces in the kiln.  This will require multiple firings using temperatures in a range from 10C/18F above to 10C/18F below your calculated annealing soak temperature to find an appropriate annealing soak temperature.

• If stress is still showing in the test pieces after all these tests, you can conduct a slump point test on a strip of glass for which there are known properties. This will show you the look of the glass that has just reached touch down point as you know it will happen at 73C above the published annealing point.  You can then apply this experience to a new observation of the test glass. 

Revised 30.12.24

Slumping a Form Flat

There are a variety of reasons that you might want to make a formed piece flat again for another kind of slump or drape.  There are a variety of things to think about when preparing to make a shaped piece flat.  I am going to assume there are no large bubbles in the piece and there are posts on Large bubbles and Bubble at bottom  including the causes.

There are five groups of things to consider when contemplating flattening an already formed shape.

Shape/form

• Shallow forms with no angles have the fewest difficulties.  Take it out of the mould, put it on the prepared shelf and fire to the slump temperature.  Observe when it is flat and proceed to the annealing.
• Forms with angles or multiple curves are a little more difficult.  If the piece has stretched in some areas to conform to the mould, you will have some distortion in the pattern and possibly some thinner areas.  It should be easy to flatten pieces on a prepared shelf with the same schedule, but a slightly higher top temperature than in the previous slump.
• Forms where the sides have pulled in will become flat, but continue to have curved sides.
• Deep forms are possibly the most difficult.  The glass may have stretched, giving thin areas.  It may be that the process of flattening the glass will cause a rippled effect as the perimeter of the piece is a smaller size than the original footprint.  These deep forms are the least likely to flatten successfully.

Orientation

• Which way up? Upside down or right side up?  Shallow forms are easiest to flatten by placing them right side up on a prepared shelf.  For deep or highly formed pieces, it may be best to put it upside down to allow the now higher parts to push the perimeter out if it is necessary.

Thickness

• Thick glass will flatten more quickly than thin glass when using slower ramp rates, so you need to keep a watch on the progress of the work to avoid excess marking of the surface of the glass.
• Very thin pieces are likely to develop wrinkles as they flatten.  Even if they do not, there will be thick and thin areas which might cause difficulty in subsequent slumping.
• Tack fused pieces are likely to tend to flatten at different places and times due to the differences in thickness and therefore weight. This makes observation of the flattening process more important.

Temperatures

• In all these processes, you should use the lowest practical temperature to flatten.  This means that you will need to peek at intervals to see when it is flat.
• Your starting point for the top temperature to use will be about the same as  the original slump, normally.  The amount of time may need to be extended significantly. The reason for this is to avoid as much marking on the finished side as possible.
• Shallow forms and thick pieces will flatten more quickly than others, so a lower temperature can be used.  You will still need to observe the progress of the flattening.
•  Angled shapes and deep forms will need more heat and time than the shallower ones. 
• Thin pieces may require more time than thick pieces.
• Tack fused pieces need more attention and slow rates of advance to compensate for the differences in thicknesses.

Separators

• Kiln washed shelves are usually adequate for flattening.
• Thinfire or Papyros are needed when flattening upside down to ease any sliding necessary.
• Powdered kiln wash or aluminium hydrate can be dusted over the kiln washed shelf when it is felt the form will need to slide on the shelf while flattening.

It may be that after all this, you feel it is not worth it to flatten.  It certainly is worth the effort, if only to learn about the characteristics of the form and its behaviour in reversing the slump or drape.

Breaks in Slumping - diagnosis

Diagnosis of breaks during slumping processes is often difficult because the temperature is not high enough to be able to apply the usual rule of 

• sharp edges indicate breaks on the cool down; 
• rounded edges indicate breaks on the heat up.

www.warm-glass.co.uk

This not a universally applicable diagnosis.

At low slump temperatures, the edges will be sharp in both a break on heating up, and on the way down in temperature.

The best test to determine when the break occurs is to observe periodically during the heat up.  You will be able to see if the piece breaks before the top temperature.  If it is whole at top temperature, the break occurred on the way down.

If you have been unable to observe the progress of the firing, you will need to diagnose when the break occurred from the clues left.  The test here is not whether the edges are rounded or sharp, because at normal slumping temperatures, the break will be sharp in both cases. 

If the break occurred before the top temperature, the pieces will shape separately as the will be on different parts of the mould. Therefore, If the pieces no longer fit together, the break was on the rise. If they do fit exactly, the break was on the way down.  Place the pieces very carefully together to see if they form part of a continuous curve.  If they do, the break was on the cool down.  If they almost  match, or do not match at all, then the break was on the rise in temperature.

In general, when the break is on the cool down, there has been an overhang of the flat glass onto the mould which causes the break.  But the most common break of a slumping piece is caused by a too quick rise in temperature.  The distance the pieces are apart will give an indication of the force of the break.  The farther apart the pieces are, the slower the ramp should be - either up or down.

For a flat 6mm piece, the slump temperature rise should be less than twp thirds as quick as the rise for the fusing.  If you have a tack fused piece to be slumped you should reduce the rate of advance to at least half of that for a smooth, flat piece of 6mm.  Thicker glass with tack fused elements will need to be even slower.

Draping is another story.

Revised 28.12.24

CoE as the Determinant of Temperature Characteristics

Credit:: Ryan Rutherford

Many people are under the impression that CoE can tell you a wide number of things about fusing glass. 

What does CoE really mean?

The first thing to note is the meaning of CoE.  Its proper name is the coefficient of linear expansion.  It tells you nothing certain about the expansion in volume, which can be as or more important than the horizontal expansion. 

It is an average determined between 20°C and 300°C.  This is fine for materials that have a crystalline structure. Glass does not.  Glass behaves quite differently at higher temperatures. 

It may have an average expansion of 96 from 20°C-300°C – although there is no information on the variation within that range – but may have an expansion of 500 just above the annealing point. 

The critical temperatures for glass are between the annealing and strain points.  One curious aspect to the expansion of glass is that the rate of expansion decreases around the annealing point.  The amount of this change is variable from one glass composition to another.

credit: ScienceDirect

The CoE of a manufacturer’s glass is an average of the range which is produced.  Spectrum has stated that their CoE of their fusing compatible glass is a 10 point range.  Bullseye has indicated that their CoE range is up to 5 points. These kind of ranges can be expected in every manufacturer’s compatible glass.

CoE does not tell us anything about viscosity, which has a bigger influence on compatibility than CoE alone. 

Comparison of CoE and Temperature

Among the things people assume CoE determines is the critical temperatures of the strain, annealing and softening points of various glasses.

Unfortunately, CoE does not necessarily tell you fusing or annealing temperatures. 

“CoE 83”

Most float glass is assumed to be around CoE 83.  The characteristics depend on which company is making the glass and where it is being made.  These are the annealing points and softening points:

Pilkington Optiwhite              559ºC/1039ºF    720°C/1328°F

Pilkington Optifloat               548ºC/1019ºF    720°C/1328°F

USA float (typical)                548ºC/1019ºF    615°C/1139

Typical Australian float has a CoE of 84 and anneals in the range 505°C -525°C/941°F - 977°F.

“CoE 90”

Uroboros FX90 has an annealing point of 525°C compared to Bullseye at 482°C, and Wissmach 90 anneal of 510°C. 

Wissmach 90 has a full fuse temperature of 777°C compared to Bullseye's 804 - 816°C.   

There is a float glass with a CoE of 90 that anneals at 540°C and fuses at 835°C.

Bullseye has a slump temperature of 630°C-677°C and Wissmach’s 90 slumps between 649°C and 677°C, slightly higher.

“CoE 93”

Kokomo with an average CoE of 93 has an annealing range of 507°C to 477°C. Kokomo slumps around 565°C

“CoE 94”

Artista with a CoE of 94 has an annealing point of 535°C and a full

fuse of 835°C, almost the same as float with a Coe of 83. 

“CoE96”

Wissmach 96 anneals at 482°C with a full fuse of 777°C and a slump temperature of 688°C.

Spectrum96 and its successor Oceanside Compatible anneals at 510°C and full fuses at 796°C.

Conclusion

In short, CoE does not tell you the temperature characteristics of the glass. These are determined by several factors of which viscosity is the most important. More information can be gained from this post or from your own testing and observation as noted in this post.

Revised 23.12.24

The Importance of Viscosity in Slumping

 What is viscosity?

The official definition is that it is a measure of the resistance to flow, e.g., honey vs water, or hard vs soft glass.  Honey and hard glass have greater resistance to flow. 

Importance of viscosity

In slumping, large differences in viscosity of the combined glasses will have different rates of deformation across the piece.  There is the possibility of uneven slumps as a result.  The stresses between the different viscosities may cause breaks or splits with rapid temperature rises.  Combining large differences in viscosity requires more caution in ramp rates and in annealing and cooling.  Of course, unusual results can be obtained by manipulating time and temperature.

Effect of temperature

Viscosity is affected more directly by temperature than heat and time.

Credit: Bullseye Glass Company

There are frequent statements about viscosity such as dark glass is less viscous than light, or transparent is less viscous than opalescent.  Also, Bob Leatherbarrow ran some slumping testes showing thick glass slumped less at a given temperature than thin.  Further, Ted Sawyer mentioned to me that some opalescent is less viscous than some transparent glass.   My experience is different, so I wanted to test my assumptions against theirs.

Experiment setup

25mm/1" wide strips were suspended with a span of 20cm/8".  Weights were placed on ends to avoid any slipping.  

Does comparative viscosity vary with temperature?

I fired samples at three temperatures and times

• 600C for 30 minutes
• 650C for 1 minute
• 690 for 1 minute

All at 150C/hr to top temperature.  The short soak time for the higher temperatures were because the glass deformed so quickly.

Results

Bullseye glass. Span of 20cm. Fired at 150C/hr to 600C for 30 minutes

            Code - name - deformation from horizontal

0126 Light Cyan              16mm

0243 Translucent White    20mm

0013 Opaque white         21mm

1101 Clear Tekta             21mm

0100 Black                     24mm

0141 Dark Forrest Green 24mm

1122 Red                       24mm

0161 Robbins egg blue    26mm

0137 French vanilla        27mm

1427 Light amber           27mm

1428 Light violet            29mm

0303 Dusky lilac            32mm

1125 Orange                 32mm

0147 Deep cobalt blue   33mm

0113 White  (.0038)      34mm

0126 Orange                 35mm

1246 Copper blue          37mm

1320 Marigold yellow     40mm

1341 Ruby pink sapphire 40mm  

(special production)

Most opals in this test were more viscous than the transparent glasses.  There are some exceptions such as Dusky lilac, Cobalt blue, Orange.  There were some exceptions too in the transparents: black, red, light amber.

Bullseye glass. Span of 20cm. Fired at 150C/hr to 650C for 1 minute

            Code - name - deformation from horizontal

0100 Black                    26mm

0013 Opaque white        30mm

1122 Red                      30mm

1428 Light violet           30mm

0243 Translucent white  31mm

0141 Dark forest green 31mm

0161 Robins egg blue    31mm

0147 Deep cobalt blue   32mm

0126 Orange opal          32mm

1101 Clear tekta           33mm

1125 Orange                34mm

0137 French vanilla       35mm

0216 Light Cyan            38mm

0303 Dusty lilac            38mm

1341 Ruby pink sapphire 39mm

1437 Light amber          41mm

1320 Marigold yellow     41mm

1246 Copper blue          43mm

0113 White  (.0038)      45mm

Some odd results appeared in this firing.  Black deformed least and white most. But in general, the opal was again more viscous than the transparent.  Exceptions were the red, and light violet in the transparents; and among the opalescents were the light cyan, dusty lilac and white.

Also of note is that the amount of deformation was very similar for the test at 600C for 30 minutes and the one at 650C for only 1 minute.  This re-inforces the concept that time and temperature are often interchangeable, so longer at a low temperature can equal the heat work effects of a shorter soak at a higher temperature.

Bullseye glass. Span of 20cm. Fired at 150C/hr to 690C for 1 minute

            Code - name - deformation from horizontal

0013 Opaque white        35mm

0141 Dark forest green   41mm

0137 French vanilla        44mm

1101 Clear                    49mm

1428 Light violet            52mm

0126 Orange                 53mm

0303 Dusty Lilac            54mm

1437 Light amber          54mm

0113 White   (.0038)     54mm

0243 Translucent white  55mm

1125 Orange                 56mm

1341 Ruby pink sapphire 59mm

1122 Red                      59mm

0161 Robins egg blue     60mm

0147 Deep Cobalt blue   62mm

1320 Marigold yellow     67mm

1246 Copper blue          90mm

The results of the higher temperature in this test showed variations in comparative viscosity.  Some opals (e.g., dark cobalt blue, robins egg blue) were less viscous than most transparents, but some transparents (e.g., light violet and light amber) were more viscous than most opals.

The test shows wide variability in the viscosity of transparent colours at a higher temperature.  It appears that hot and deep colours are the least viscous of the transparent colours in this test.  There are also significant differences in the viscosity of opalescent and transparent glasses of the same colour.  It is apparent that not all glasses have the same rate of viscosity change with the same rate of temperature change.

Summary

This test showed that in general, the opals in the test are stiffer than the transparent from 600C to 690C with some exceptions.  It appears transparent hot colours are less viscous than the light transparent colours.  This is not the same for opalescent colours which seem to have a wider range of viscosity at these temperatures.

The similar deformation of the test glasses at 600C for 30 minutes and at 650C for one minute, shows the possibility of using lower temperatures and longer times to achieve the same effects in slumping as at higher temperatures with shorter soaks.

Viscosity and expansion rate are roughly related at lower temperatures, but both change rapidly above the softening point.  This experiment demonstrates that expansion rates vary within a single fusing compatible range of glass.  Also, glass with significantly different viscosities can be compatible, since this was all Bullseye fusing compatible glass.

It is apparent from this unscientific experiment that when preparing for slumping an important piece that combines different colours and styles, testing for relative viscosity is a good idea to determine if there are widely different viscosities.  This knowledge will enable an accommodation to be made in scheduling.

Tom Sawyer comments on the subject of viscosity:

“Viscosity is not always lower for transparent glasses than for opalescent glasses.  Opalescent glasses will begin to move more at temperatures of 538ºC/1000ºF than will transparent glasses, and even at 677ºC/1250ºF, there are still some opalescent glasses that move more than many transparent glasses.  It is only when we get to fusing temperatures that we begin to see the majority of transparent glasses moving more than the majority of opalescent glasses.  In general, it is correct that darker glasses will move more than lighter glasses – both because of their chemistries and because of their greater propensity to absorb infrared energy.”

More information on the effects of viscosity in kilnforming can be found in the ebook Low Temperature Kilnforming.