These are the wheel angles recommended by The Fletcher-Terry Company for various glasses:
114 to 134 degrees – 2mm float glass
130 to 140 degrees – 4mm float glass
134 to 140 degrees – 3mm to 6mm float glass
148 to 154 degrees – 12mm to 25mm float glass
134 to 140 degrees – stained glass
88 to 114degrees – borosilicate glass
http://www.fletcherviscom.com/home.shtml
Tuesday, 26 May 2009
Monday, 25 May 2009
Water Proofing of Pattern Pieces
Many people put their pattern pieces onto the glass they are going to grind, or saw to attempt to get a good fit to the cartoon. The water from the grinder makes paper templates soggy and liable to tear or disintegrate so failing to for a good guide to grinding.
One solution is to stick self adhesive plastic on top of the pattern before you cut it all apart. Then you have some protection when you grind. The plastic sticks to the surface of the paper and resists the water. However, the water can seep between the glass and the unprotected bottom of the paper or, even if protected with plastic on both sided, through the exposed edge.
You can spray or apply clear lacquer on the paper pattern pieces before attaching them to the glass and grinding. This has slightly better results as the edge is most often sealed better than with two layers of plastic.
You can use clear acetate film (ca. 0.2mm thick) as a completely water resistant pattern. Cut your pattern pieces from the acetate film and stick them on to the glass with blutack or any other gum based adhesive. This works well and does not suffer from the water deteriorating the pattern piece.
One solution is to stick self adhesive plastic on top of the pattern before you cut it all apart. Then you have some protection when you grind. The plastic sticks to the surface of the paper and resists the water. However, the water can seep between the glass and the unprotected bottom of the paper or, even if protected with plastic on both sided, through the exposed edge.
You can spray or apply clear lacquer on the paper pattern pieces before attaching them to the glass and grinding. This has slightly better results as the edge is most often sealed better than with two layers of plastic.
You can use clear acetate film (ca. 0.2mm thick) as a completely water resistant pattern. Cut your pattern pieces from the acetate film and stick them on to the glass with blutack or any other gum based adhesive. This works well and does not suffer from the water deteriorating the pattern piece.
Friday, 22 May 2009
Window Measurements
There are a number of measurements that are critical for a good design and a sound installation of window panels.
1. Tight Size: This is the full size of the glass opening with no allowances for expansion and contraction. In a wood or metal rebate frame one would measure from steel to opposing steel or wood to wood; in a stone groove installation, from the bottom of one groove to the bottom of the opposing groove. Depending on the size of the opening, this measurement should be checked in multiple areas; at a minimum at the top, bottom and middle horizontally and at the left and right jamb.
2. Sight Size is the daylight opening or the largest opening that allows light to pass through.
3. Rebate or groove details. With a rebate frame, the depth and the width of the rebate must be measured, as well as the interior return if round bars will be used (this dictates what size bar will fit and how long the bar should be). These dimensions are also necessary to determine the dimensions of the retaining molding if one is to be used. If it is a groove, the depth of the groove and the width of the groove (measured from interior to exterior) are important.
4. Panel Size. This is the ideal size of a panel that will be installed into the opening in question. Typically, this will be a function of the tight size less 3mm in both width and height for a leaded glass panel, to allow for expansion and contraction. One must also recognize if the size varies throughout the frame and make allowance for this as well. With dalle de verre, you need a deep rebate or groove and allow at least 5mm in both directions for expansion.
5. The depth of the rebate or the width of the groove are critical measurements. To allow for a proper installation, allow a minimum of 13mm to be added to the thickness of the panel to provide room for a proper putty fillet.
Based on comments from Art Femenella
6. When measuring older openings and especially doors, measure the diagonals in addition to all the other measurements. This provides a check of all your other measurements and also tells you whether the opening is a true rectangle or parallelogram.
1. Tight Size: This is the full size of the glass opening with no allowances for expansion and contraction. In a wood or metal rebate frame one would measure from steel to opposing steel or wood to wood; in a stone groove installation, from the bottom of one groove to the bottom of the opposing groove. Depending on the size of the opening, this measurement should be checked in multiple areas; at a minimum at the top, bottom and middle horizontally and at the left and right jamb.
2. Sight Size is the daylight opening or the largest opening that allows light to pass through.
3. Rebate or groove details. With a rebate frame, the depth and the width of the rebate must be measured, as well as the interior return if round bars will be used (this dictates what size bar will fit and how long the bar should be). These dimensions are also necessary to determine the dimensions of the retaining molding if one is to be used. If it is a groove, the depth of the groove and the width of the groove (measured from interior to exterior) are important.
4. Panel Size. This is the ideal size of a panel that will be installed into the opening in question. Typically, this will be a function of the tight size less 3mm in both width and height for a leaded glass panel, to allow for expansion and contraction. One must also recognize if the size varies throughout the frame and make allowance for this as well. With dalle de verre, you need a deep rebate or groove and allow at least 5mm in both directions for expansion.
5. The depth of the rebate or the width of the groove are critical measurements. To allow for a proper installation, allow a minimum of 13mm to be added to the thickness of the panel to provide room for a proper putty fillet.
Based on comments from Art Femenella
6. When measuring older openings and especially doors, measure the diagonals in addition to all the other measurements. This provides a check of all your other measurements and also tells you whether the opening is a true rectangle or parallelogram.
Thursday, 21 May 2009
Cleaning Old Leaded Glass Panels
Please note that these procedures do not apply to painted glass.
The materials that you will need are:
· A dust mask to keep any lead oxides from being breathed
· Gloves – latex or similar that fit well and protect your hands from the chemicals
· Mild abrasives such as whiting or bathroom cleaner meant for fibre glass fittings
· Paint remover for paint and varnish
· Brushes – both scrubbing and paint brushes
· Water for combining with the cleaning agents and for rinsing
Cleaning Location
On site
Cleaning is best done with the panel flat. However, it often is a requirement that the panels be cleaned on site. This requires lots of plastic sheeting to catch the water. This should be taped at the bottom of the panel and spread across the floor. Masking tape or similar is best for attaching the plastic, as other tapes can pull paint and wall paper off. You will need lots of foamy glass cleaner to hold the moisture to the glass. Repeated applications of the foamy cleaner followed by clean water will leave the glass sparkling.
On the bench
Cleaning the panel on the bench is most desirable. First, it keeps the water and other cleaning materials from running all over the client’s house. Second, it keeps the pressure of cleaning evenly distributed across the bench rather than risking the bowing of the panel while cleaning in situ. It also allows safer application of chemical cleaning agents. It allows broken lead joints to be repaired at the end of the cleaning.
The main contaminants on old leaded panels normally are dirt, paint and varnish.
A general clean up of the dirt is to scrub. Scrubbing damp whiting on the panel is a traditional method. A more modern one is to use a cream or bathroom cleaner designed for fibre glass fittings. They are quicker and easier, but make sure they are for baths, etc made of fibre glass.
Paint and varnish can be taken off with paint remover. Both glass and paint removers are alkaline so there is no effect on glass. There is no noticeable effect on lead if you do not clean it first. If you must clean the lead, do it last.
There are some precautions you must take when cleaning old glass, especially as the surface of the lead will be a lead oxide that can get into the air. You should use a dusk mask and wear gloves. You should dampen the area around the work frequently to keep the dust from circulating.
The main requirement is that you do not apply these procedures to painted glass or panels that have some painted glass.
Regular cleaning can be done by the clients with a soft brush to keep the dirt from building up.
The materials that you will need are:
· A dust mask to keep any lead oxides from being breathed
· Gloves – latex or similar that fit well and protect your hands from the chemicals
· Mild abrasives such as whiting or bathroom cleaner meant for fibre glass fittings
· Paint remover for paint and varnish
· Brushes – both scrubbing and paint brushes
· Water for combining with the cleaning agents and for rinsing
Cleaning Location
On site
Cleaning is best done with the panel flat. However, it often is a requirement that the panels be cleaned on site. This requires lots of plastic sheeting to catch the water. This should be taped at the bottom of the panel and spread across the floor. Masking tape or similar is best for attaching the plastic, as other tapes can pull paint and wall paper off. You will need lots of foamy glass cleaner to hold the moisture to the glass. Repeated applications of the foamy cleaner followed by clean water will leave the glass sparkling.
On the bench
Cleaning the panel on the bench is most desirable. First, it keeps the water and other cleaning materials from running all over the client’s house. Second, it keeps the pressure of cleaning evenly distributed across the bench rather than risking the bowing of the panel while cleaning in situ. It also allows safer application of chemical cleaning agents. It allows broken lead joints to be repaired at the end of the cleaning.
The main contaminants on old leaded panels normally are dirt, paint and varnish.
A general clean up of the dirt is to scrub. Scrubbing damp whiting on the panel is a traditional method. A more modern one is to use a cream or bathroom cleaner designed for fibre glass fittings. They are quicker and easier, but make sure they are for baths, etc made of fibre glass.
Paint and varnish can be taken off with paint remover. Both glass and paint removers are alkaline so there is no effect on glass. There is no noticeable effect on lead if you do not clean it first. If you must clean the lead, do it last.
There are some precautions you must take when cleaning old glass, especially as the surface of the lead will be a lead oxide that can get into the air. You should use a dusk mask and wear gloves. You should dampen the area around the work frequently to keep the dust from circulating.
The main requirement is that you do not apply these procedures to painted glass or panels that have some painted glass.
Regular cleaning can be done by the clients with a soft brush to keep the dirt from building up.
Wednesday, 20 May 2009
Butting of leads
Lead came is normally cut to meet up against the adjoining cames. This provides a neat joint that will carry the solder without needing to fill gaps. The easiest joints to make are those at right angles. You can measure or estimate the amount that the came must be shorter than the glass, but it is easiest to use a piece of came the same size as will be passing the piece you are cutting (gauge came). You centre the gauge came on the cartoon cut line near the joint. Using your lead knife you can extend the line of the side of the gauge came to the piece you will be cutting. The mark you make with the lead knife can then be used to guide your cut of the came, as you take it away from the glass.
Those joints with angles have the came marked and cut in the same way as for right angles as the gauge came will give you the correct angle to cut.
Always remember when leading that you lead to the cartoon lines not to the glass. If the glass is short, use the cut line to place the gauge on, not against the glass. If the glass is too large, adjust its fit.
Tuesday, 19 May 2009
Glass Cutter Wheels
There are many different types of glass cutters on the market today. Choosing the proper cutter is the most important decision you must make, as it will be a large element of how you enjoy scoring and breaking glass. There are some elements that you should consider in addition to the style of the holder.
Steel Wheel Cutters are inexpensive but usually not long-lasting. They must be replaced frequently as they easily become damaged.
Tungsten Carbide Cutters are more expensive than steel wheel cutters, but far outlast them in durability. Self-lubricating cutters eliminate the need to constantly lubricate your cutter between scores.
Wheel Angles. There are steel wheel cutters which are good for general purpose cutting, production cutting, or pattern cutting. Some are good for cutting thinner glass, others for thicker glass. The angle of the bevel on the wheel determines this and differs from model to model, although some offer wheels of different angles. Pistol grip cutters produce more pressure than others.
Steel Wheel Cutters are inexpensive but usually not long-lasting. They must be replaced frequently as they easily become damaged.
Tungsten Carbide Cutters are more expensive than steel wheel cutters, but far outlast them in durability. Self-lubricating cutters eliminate the need to constantly lubricate your cutter between scores.
Wheel Angles. There are steel wheel cutters which are good for general purpose cutting, production cutting, or pattern cutting. Some are good for cutting thinner glass, others for thicker glass. The angle of the bevel on the wheel determines this and differs from model to model, although some offer wheels of different angles. Pistol grip cutters produce more pressure than others.
Friday, 15 May 2009
Identifying the coated side of glass
Dichoric and iridised glass can present difficulties in identifying the side that has the coating. For some applications it is important to know which is the coated side to place it up or down or even to make sure the pieces are all the same way up.
Several methods are possible:
On coated clear glass you can use a pencil or other pointed object. Hold the glass so you're looking a glancing angle then bring a pencil down onto the surface. The coated side will show a clear reflection of the pencil tip and the backside will show a gap, or multiple image of the pencil tip.
If the glass is dark or black this method will not work conclusively. Instead you can use grozing pliers to nibble at the edge of the glass. The surface that shows damage to the coating is the coated side. If there is no damage visible to the coating, the other side is the coated one. You could mask the glass and sandblast a small corner. If the coating blasts away, that is the coated side. If not the coating is on the other side.
Having gone to all this trouble, mark up the glass side with a permanent marker to identify the coated side. Also mark each piece cut from it so you do not have to repeat the test on each cut piece.
Several methods are possible:
On coated clear glass you can use a pencil or other pointed object. Hold the glass so you're looking a glancing angle then bring a pencil down onto the surface. The coated side will show a clear reflection of the pencil tip and the backside will show a gap, or multiple image of the pencil tip.
If the glass is dark or black this method will not work conclusively. Instead you can use grozing pliers to nibble at the edge of the glass. The surface that shows damage to the coating is the coated side. If there is no damage visible to the coating, the other side is the coated one. You could mask the glass and sandblast a small corner. If the coating blasts away, that is the coated side. If not the coating is on the other side.
Having gone to all this trouble, mark up the glass side with a permanent marker to identify the coated side. Also mark each piece cut from it so you do not have to repeat the test on each cut piece.
Thursday, 14 May 2009
Annealing open face castings
You should double the annealing time for open faced castings. The glass loses heat to the kiln from the open surface faster than through the bottom of the casting through the investment and any base that the casting is sitting on. If you could cover the open faced casting with an insulation of equivalent thermal value as the investment around the glass you could go back to the schedule for the actual thickness of the glass.
Wednesday, 6 May 2009
What is Waxing Up?
I have had the question above asked. It seems appropriate to respond as part of the tips section, as I had made unwarranted assumptions in posting the waxing up recipe.
Waxing up is the process whereby the cut and sometimes partially painted glass pieces are assembled on and stuck to a glass sheet - called a glass easel - before raising it to a window to get the light that it will receive when installed. This allows you to see what the current state of the window is and how it would look when installed. It shows up weak areas, or pieces which are not really compatible. Although it is used mainly by those who do a lot of painting on their glass, it is equally valuable to assess the composition of a leaded or copper foiled piece. It does ensure that you do not get surprises when you have finished a piece.
The wax used is sticky and stiff enough to hold the glass, but not so sticky as to be difficult to get the pieces off the glass or the wax off the pieces of glass being prepared.
Also some users of the glass easel method paint representations of the lead lines on the back side of the supporting glass to ensure the values of the lines are appropriate for the amount of detail for the various areas of the panel.
Waxing up is the process whereby the cut and sometimes partially painted glass pieces are assembled on and stuck to a glass sheet - called a glass easel - before raising it to a window to get the light that it will receive when installed. This allows you to see what the current state of the window is and how it would look when installed. It shows up weak areas, or pieces which are not really compatible. Although it is used mainly by those who do a lot of painting on their glass, it is equally valuable to assess the composition of a leaded or copper foiled piece. It does ensure that you do not get surprises when you have finished a piece.
The wax used is sticky and stiff enough to hold the glass, but not so sticky as to be difficult to get the pieces off the glass or the wax off the pieces of glass being prepared.
Also some users of the glass easel method paint representations of the lead lines on the back side of the supporting glass to ensure the values of the lines are appropriate for the amount of detail for the various areas of the panel.
Tuesday, 5 May 2009
Soldering Fragile Pieces of Glass
Heat transfers to the glass during soldering. Normally this does not produce any difficulties. However with slender pieces, deep curves, or band saw cuts, the heat generated by soldering can crack/break the glass. This means that you need to ensure that you do not linger for a long time on the solder beads along these kinds of pieces.
You can do several things:
Solder roughly at first, and then continue soldering somewhere else on your piece, to let the heat of the solder dissipate before finishing soldering by filling the gaps in the bead.
Create the bead in a single relatively swift pass. It has to be slow enough to produce a bead, but not linger in any area. The bead should not be so large as to turn over on itself. It should be similar to a quarter or at most a third of a circle.
Build the bead up with a series of “pats” along the copper foil joint. This involves putting a dot of solder to the copper foil tape and resting long enough for the solder to spread to its natural dimensions, and then place another dot at the leading edge of the first and so on until you reach the end of the line. This provides a relatively cool method of soldering. Its disadvantage is that it leaves a number of “tide” marks at the cool end of the bead. These can be changed to a single tide mark by re-melting the solder at that end.
You can do several things:
Solder roughly at first, and then continue soldering somewhere else on your piece, to let the heat of the solder dissipate before finishing soldering by filling the gaps in the bead.
Create the bead in a single relatively swift pass. It has to be slow enough to produce a bead, but not linger in any area. The bead should not be so large as to turn over on itself. It should be similar to a quarter or at most a third of a circle.
Build the bead up with a series of “pats” along the copper foil joint. This involves putting a dot of solder to the copper foil tape and resting long enough for the solder to spread to its natural dimensions, and then place another dot at the leading edge of the first and so on until you reach the end of the line. This provides a relatively cool method of soldering. Its disadvantage is that it leaves a number of “tide” marks at the cool end of the bead. These can be changed to a single tide mark by re-melting the solder at that end.
Monday, 4 May 2009
Sharp Corners on Fused Rectangles
Often single or two layered rectangular pieces have sharp corners on the top or at the bottom.
This is caused in the case of the single layer, 3mm or less, piece by the glass trying to pull up to 6-7mm.
In the case of the two layer, ca. 6mm, piece the sharp area is just at the bottom rather than the top.
In both cases the sharp corners on square and rectangular items 3 or 6mm thick can be avoided by nipping a very little off the corners before firing.
This is caused in the case of the single layer, 3mm or less, piece by the glass trying to pull up to 6-7mm.
In the case of the two layer, ca. 6mm, piece the sharp area is just at the bottom rather than the top.
In both cases the sharp corners on square and rectangular items 3 or 6mm thick can be avoided by nipping a very little off the corners before firing.
Friday, 1 May 2009
Lead Framing
One option for framing, especially where the edges are not rectangular is to use lead. The lead touching the glass or copper foiled edge should be 10mm flat came. This allows you to insert a 5mm mild steel rod shaped to the outside of the panel. This is then covered by a 13mm flat came. The came is smoothed by gentle pressure on the upper and lower flanges with a stopping or lead knife to bring the two flanges together. This gives a pleasant finish to the edge.
by Gene Mallard
by Gene Mallard
Thursday, 30 April 2009
Finger Protection While Grinding
Various methods of protection are used:
Finger stalls,
Taped fingers,
Altering the fingers used to press the glass to the grinding bit,
Gloves – but they have to very tight fitting to avoid getting caught in the spinning bit.
Duct tape,
Grinders' Mate.
Prevention
The sore fingers are usually caused by tiny cuts from the glass. So, all these methods are ways of putting something between the glass edges and your fingers. More importantly, you need to think about your practice if you are getting sore fingers while grinding.
The first thing is just to lightly grind all the way around the piece first. This can be quick, and should use minimum pressure. This will remove any sharp edges.
If you have to press hard to achieve the effect you want, it may be that your grinder bit is badly worn. It may also be that you need to have a coarser bit to achieve the amount of grinding that you need.
You should not be pressing hard in any case. This will wear out bearings on the motor and reduce the life of the bit. You should use medium pressure and allow the diamonds on the grinding bit to do the work. Fine work requires a fine grit, removing a lot of glass requires a coarse bit, not more pressure.
If you have to remove large amounts of glass, you need to review the accuracy of your cutting. You should not be relying on the grinder to do more than tidy your cuts.
Remedies
There are several remedies to relieve the soreness:
Cucumber melon antibacterial hand lotion
Vitamin E.
Tea tree oil
Germolene
Finger stalls,
Taped fingers,
Altering the fingers used to press the glass to the grinding bit,
Gloves – but they have to very tight fitting to avoid getting caught in the spinning bit.
Duct tape,
Grinders' Mate.
Prevention
The sore fingers are usually caused by tiny cuts from the glass. So, all these methods are ways of putting something between the glass edges and your fingers. More importantly, you need to think about your practice if you are getting sore fingers while grinding.
The first thing is just to lightly grind all the way around the piece first. This can be quick, and should use minimum pressure. This will remove any sharp edges.
If you have to press hard to achieve the effect you want, it may be that your grinder bit is badly worn. It may also be that you need to have a coarser bit to achieve the amount of grinding that you need.
You should not be pressing hard in any case. This will wear out bearings on the motor and reduce the life of the bit. You should use medium pressure and allow the diamonds on the grinding bit to do the work. Fine work requires a fine grit, removing a lot of glass requires a coarse bit, not more pressure.
If you have to remove large amounts of glass, you need to review the accuracy of your cutting. You should not be relying on the grinder to do more than tidy your cuts.
Remedies
There are several remedies to relieve the soreness:
Cucumber melon antibacterial hand lotion
Vitamin E.
Tea tree oil
Germolene
Wednesday, 29 April 2009
Glass Grinder Use
Glass grinders are very handy tools. They mainly consists of a spinning diamond coated cylinder (the bit) extending above a grid surface that can rapidly and accurately grind glass to the desired shape.
Don't purposely cut glass large with the intention of grinding. Ideally no grinding would have to be done. It should be used only for minor adjustments or for grinding tough-to-cut inside curves.
Bits
The diamond bit must be kept wet in order to reduce wear on the diamond and prevent glass dust from developing and being inhaled. There are several grits available. "Fine" grinds slower but leaves fewer chips in the glass. "Coarse" grinds very fast but leaves larger chips. "Standard" is a central compromise.
Water reservoir
Ensure there is water in the reservoir before starting any grinding. Empty the reservoir daily. This keeps the water from producing a smell, and allows you to clear the glass residue from around the grinding bit.
Don't purposely cut glass large with the intention of grinding. Ideally no grinding would have to be done. It should be used only for minor adjustments or for grinding tough-to-cut inside curves.
Bits
The diamond bit must be kept wet in order to reduce wear on the diamond and prevent glass dust from developing and being inhaled. There are several grits available. "Fine" grinds slower but leaves fewer chips in the glass. "Coarse" grinds very fast but leaves larger chips. "Standard" is a central compromise.
Water reservoir
Ensure there is water in the reservoir before starting any grinding. Empty the reservoir daily. This keeps the water from producing a smell, and allows you to clear the glass residue from around the grinding bit.
Tuesday, 28 April 2009
Nails
Horseshoe nails are normally used to temporarily hold glass and lead in place while assembling the panel. The flat side of the nail goes against the lead. If the final lead is in place, try to put nails where there will be a solder joint. This will hide any "dings" in the lead. If no lead is yet in place, use a piece of scrap lead to protect the glass from chipping and to raise the glass to a common level before placing the nail. When pulling a nail, rock it in the narrow, side-to-side direction in order to prevent bending the tip.
An even more convenient nail is the round German nail which is hardened steel and sharply pointed. This nail can be started with one hand which is handy when your other hand is busy holding everything together. Use a twisting motion to pull the nail.
An even more convenient nail is the round German nail which is hardened steel and sharply pointed. This nail can be started with one hand which is handy when your other hand is busy holding everything together. Use a twisting motion to pull the nail.
Monday, 27 April 2009
Lead-Free Solder
Most of the advice around lead free solder is to avoid using it. However, lead-free solder is essential for making jewellery (which may have skin contact) or any project that may be in contact with food.
Lead-free solder does require a hotter iron than lead bearing solders, plus it does not flow easily. This is in spite of its relatively low melting point. It has a pasty state between solid and liquid that is prone to lumps and spikes. If this is not bad enough, it also does not take patina designed for lead bearing solders well.
Those using rheostats with their soldering irons, should get rid of the rheostat (see tips on soldering irons), as they limit the ability of the iron to recover the soldering temperature. The best iron to use with lead free solders is a temperature controlled iron, like the 100 watt Weller, or even a higher powered one like the Weller 200 watt. You can get tips that run at 800F to replace the standard 700F tips. This helps with the higher temperatures needed for the lead free solder. But you should not be vaporizing the solder as that is what could hurt you.
Consider the effects of the flux that you are using. Experimenting with various kinds (see the flux tips) can lead you to one that works better than the others.
As always, good hygiene and good ventilation are required when soldering. Also you should wash your hands well and frequently, and eat in a separate room.
Lead-free solder does require a hotter iron than lead bearing solders, plus it does not flow easily. This is in spite of its relatively low melting point. It has a pasty state between solid and liquid that is prone to lumps and spikes. If this is not bad enough, it also does not take patina designed for lead bearing solders well.
Those using rheostats with their soldering irons, should get rid of the rheostat (see tips on soldering irons), as they limit the ability of the iron to recover the soldering temperature. The best iron to use with lead free solders is a temperature controlled iron, like the 100 watt Weller, or even a higher powered one like the Weller 200 watt. You can get tips that run at 800F to replace the standard 700F tips. This helps with the higher temperatures needed for the lead free solder. But you should not be vaporizing the solder as that is what could hurt you.
Consider the effects of the flux that you are using. Experimenting with various kinds (see the flux tips) can lead you to one that works better than the others.
As always, good hygiene and good ventilation are required when soldering. Also you should wash your hands well and frequently, and eat in a separate room.
Friday, 24 April 2009
Flux Core Solder
A tube of multicore electronics solder is used for manual soldering in the electronics industry - the flux is contained in five cores within the solder itself.
Solder often comes pre-mixed with, or is used with, flux, a reducing agent designed to help remove impurities (specifically oxidised metals) from the points of contact to improve the electrical connection. For convenience, solder is often manufactured as a hollow tube and filled with flux. Most cold solder is soft enough to be rolled and packaged as a coil, making for a convenient and compact solder/flux package.
The two principal types of flux are acid flux, used for metal mending, and rosin flux, used in electronics, where the corrosiveness of the vapours that arise when acid flux is heated could damage components. Due to concerns over atmospheric pollution and hazardous waste disposal, the electronics industry has been gradually shifting from rosin flux to water-soluble flux, which can be removed with de-ionised water and detergent, instead of hydrocarbon solvents.
Solder often comes pre-mixed with, or is used with, flux, a reducing agent designed to help remove impurities (specifically oxidised metals) from the points of contact to improve the electrical connection. For convenience, solder is often manufactured as a hollow tube and filled with flux. Most cold solder is soft enough to be rolled and packaged as a coil, making for a convenient and compact solder/flux package.
The two principal types of flux are acid flux, used for metal mending, and rosin flux, used in electronics, where the corrosiveness of the vapours that arise when acid flux is heated could damage components. Due to concerns over atmospheric pollution and hazardous waste disposal, the electronics industry has been gradually shifting from rosin flux to water-soluble flux, which can be removed with de-ionised water and detergent, instead of hydrocarbon solvents.
Thursday, 23 April 2009
Fids or Lathkins
Fids or lathkins are available in hardwood or plastic in a variety of shapes. They are used to open the channel of lead came, press the leaves of the lead tight against the glass, and burnish the copper foil against the glass. They can be purchased or made from hardwood.
Wednesday, 22 April 2009
Soldering Lead Came
Historically soldering tips were copper, placed in braziers. One tip was used until it became too cool, when it was placed back in the brazier of charcoal and the next tip was used. Later gas irons were used and currently electric soldering irons are most commonly used.
The lead needs to be clean and bright to enable the solder to stick to it. If it's fairly new lead it may be solderable without further preparation. However, if the lead is dull and oxidized, you should scrape the lead in the area to be soldered with the blade of a lead knife.
Then apply the flux.
The iron is held over-handed (as you would a bread knife) in order to get the handle low enough to have the tip flat on the lead. You can allow the weight of the iron to press gently against the joint to transfer the heat into the lead or foil.
The solder is fed to the iron tip so as to melt an approximately five millimetre long piece of blowpipe solder. Move the solder away as soon as it is melted, so it doesn't become attached. As soon as you see the solder at the joint melt and spread, slowly lift the iron straight up.
Avoid "painting" or dragging the iron across the joint. The object is to have a shiny, smooth, slightly rounded solder joint. There should be no points sticking up from the solder joint. If a solder joint is not satisfactory you can re-flux and re-solder. Don't apply too much solder. It's easier to add more solder than to remove excess.
The most common concern is whether there is enough solder on the joint. Very little solder is required to stick the joints together. Often a securely soldered joint shows the ends of the cames. For cosmetic reasons it is usual to use enough solder to disguise the ends of the cames. It is not a structural requirement.
The lead needs to be clean and bright to enable the solder to stick to it. If it's fairly new lead it may be solderable without further preparation. However, if the lead is dull and oxidized, you should scrape the lead in the area to be soldered with the blade of a lead knife.
Then apply the flux.
The iron is held over-handed (as you would a bread knife) in order to get the handle low enough to have the tip flat on the lead. You can allow the weight of the iron to press gently against the joint to transfer the heat into the lead or foil.
The solder is fed to the iron tip so as to melt an approximately five millimetre long piece of blowpipe solder. Move the solder away as soon as it is melted, so it doesn't become attached. As soon as you see the solder at the joint melt and spread, slowly lift the iron straight up.
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| This image represents the principle of soldering any metal, not just computer boards |
Avoid "painting" or dragging the iron across the joint. The object is to have a shiny, smooth, slightly rounded solder joint. There should be no points sticking up from the solder joint. If a solder joint is not satisfactory you can re-flux and re-solder. Don't apply too much solder. It's easier to add more solder than to remove excess.
The most common concern is whether there is enough solder on the joint. Very little solder is required to stick the joints together. Often a securely soldered joint shows the ends of the cames. For cosmetic reasons it is usual to use enough solder to disguise the ends of the cames. It is not a structural requirement.
Tuesday, 21 April 2009
Trimming Lead Came on Site
There are a variety of reasons for the panel not fitting the opening easily. These can range from poor measurements through parallelogram, trapezoidal openings or irregular perimeters of the openings.
In the cases of irregular openings, you can trim the edge cames if you have made them 12mm (1/2”) or more wide. The quickest way of trimming cames to fit the opening is to use a rasp or “surform” tool. The open nature of the teeth, allows the lead to fall away. It is much quicker than using a lead knife, and it puts less pressure on the panel.
In the cases of irregular openings, you can trim the edge cames if you have made them 12mm (1/2”) or more wide. The quickest way of trimming cames to fit the opening is to use a rasp or “surform” tool. The open nature of the teeth, allows the lead to fall away. It is much quicker than using a lead knife, and it puts less pressure on the panel.
Monday, 20 April 2009
Filling Gaps Between Glass Pieces
Gaps along the bead line
When you have a gap between pieces of foiled glass, fill the gap with small pieces of lead or copper foil tape that has the adhesive side folded together. These will have to be cut to a width of just less than 3mm to keep them from projecting above the surface of the glass. This material helps to fill the gap and reduce the amount of “melt through”. Put a bit of masking tape on the top surface of the gap and turn the panel over.Solder the back first. You can do this with 50/50 or 40/60 solder as it does not change from solid to liquid and back so quickly as 60/40. (See melting points of solders.) However the masking tape will keep the solder from dripping through if you apply too much heat. When you have finished soldering the back, apply masking tape to the now filled gap and turn over.
When completing the soldering of the top, you will need to take care to avoid over-heating the solder filling the gap. Over heating will allow the solder to melt through the existing solder and flow along the back. Usually, an application of dots of solder next to each other avoids transmitting as much heat as running a bead will. When you have passed the gap area, you can continue running the bead in the normal way.
Gaps between pieces
When you have gaps between glass that cannot be cut or re-cut, such as globs, fill the gap with a piece of lead or copper foil sheet cut to the size and shape of the gap. This is better than folded up pieces of lead or foil as it carries the solder over the gaps to the foiled pieces of glass. It allows for a smoother surface, and uses less solder.
Note:
Remember to avoid moving the panel for a while, as the large solder bead will require longer to become solid.
Remember to avoid moving the panel for a while, as the large solder bead will require longer to become solid.
Friday, 17 April 2009
Exposed Foil
After soldering, inspect the solder seams for small areas or strips of copper foil edges that aren't covered with solder.
If this exposed foil is where you want the solder bead to be, you need to clean the foil and re-apply solder. Usually scrubbing with “000” steel wool is sufficient. If, after scrubbing and applying flux, the solder still does not stick, you need to wash the piece and after drying, scrub the exposed foil, re-apply flux and solder again.
If the exposed foil is surplus or where you do not want any solder, take a craft knife, and carefully trim off the exposed foil.
If this exposed foil is where you want the solder bead to be, you need to clean the foil and re-apply solder. Usually scrubbing with “000” steel wool is sufficient. If, after scrubbing and applying flux, the solder still does not stick, you need to wash the piece and after drying, scrub the exposed foil, re-apply flux and solder again.
If the exposed foil is surplus or where you do not want any solder, take a craft knife, and carefully trim off the exposed foil.
Wednesday, 15 April 2009
Transporting Glass
Store, carry and transport glass as near to vertical as possible.
If you are transporting a number of sheets, place paper between the sheets to avoid scratches and vibration damage or breakage. The glass should be tied tightly together, preferably on a rack.
If you do not have a rack, you can put into the back of your vehicle and put the seat belts around the glass to keep it from flying forward in the event of an emergency stop. Cushion the seat belts from the edges of the glass to avoid cutting the belt with emergency breaking.
If you are transporting a number of sheets, place paper between the sheets to avoid scratches and vibration damage or breakage. The glass should be tied tightly together, preferably on a rack.
If you do not have a rack, you can put into the back of your vehicle and put the seat belts around the glass to keep it from flying forward in the event of an emergency stop. Cushion the seat belts from the edges of the glass to avoid cutting the belt with emergency breaking.
Tuesday, 14 April 2009
Handling Large Sheets of Glass Safely
Preparation
Use proper glass handling gloves.
Wear closed toe shoes, preferably with steel toe caps. This also allows you to set the glass on your toes prior to changing your grip to place the glass in the rack.
Clear the passage ways of all obstructions, whether on the floor or at the walls and door ways before moving any glass.
Carrying
To carry large sheets of glass safely (for yourself and the glass), you need to support it from below as well as the end. One gloved hand goes under the bottom and the other on the side edge. The glass is then carried vertically, with the edges at an angle. This is done in a manner so that the glass is on the side of your body with both palms facing outwards. If there is a trip or other accident, the glass will be tipped away from the body. This sounds awkward, but is safe and easy when you get used to it. It also is the glazing industry standard method of carrying glass.
If the glass is too heavy to lift in this way, use suckers and get others to help.
If the glass breaks while carrying it just let it drop. Trying to catch or save it will lead to a hospital visit.
Always set the glass edges down on a cushioning material. This can be wood, linoleum, carpet, etc.
Use proper glass handling gloves.
Wear closed toe shoes, preferably with steel toe caps. This also allows you to set the glass on your toes prior to changing your grip to place the glass in the rack.
Clear the passage ways of all obstructions, whether on the floor or at the walls and door ways before moving any glass.
Carrying
To carry large sheets of glass safely (for yourself and the glass), you need to support it from below as well as the end. One gloved hand goes under the bottom and the other on the side edge. The glass is then carried vertically, with the edges at an angle. This is done in a manner so that the glass is on the side of your body with both palms facing outwards. If there is a trip or other accident, the glass will be tipped away from the body. This sounds awkward, but is safe and easy when you get used to it. It also is the glazing industry standard method of carrying glass.
If the glass is too heavy to lift in this way, use suckers and get others to help.
If the glass breaks while carrying it just let it drop. Trying to catch or save it will lead to a hospital visit.
Always set the glass edges down on a cushioning material. This can be wood, linoleum, carpet, etc.
Monday, 13 April 2009
Rebates in Stone for Leaded Glass
Side rebatesOne side of the rebate in stone should be deeper than the other. This allows the panel to be slotted in and then slid back into the shallower rebate. Which side the deep rebate is on is not important.
Adjusting the placement of the panelTo help move the panel from side to side stiff oyster knives and lead knives are important. This allows you to get behind the edge and slide the panel to the side, especially when it is sitting on top of another panel to make the fine adjustments to get the lead lines flowing correctly.
Top and bottom rebatesFor the top and bottom rebates it is important that the top is the deep one. You insert the panel up into the slot and let it settle into the bottom rebate. The panel edges should be completely covered by the stone.
Extra cameIn all installations into stone, you should carry extra came of at least 12mm (1/2”) to solder round the panel when the stone work is not as accurate as it should be, either through workmanship or weathering.
Wedges
Have some little blocks of wood and some whittling tool to hand to wedge the panel in till mortared. It is possible to use little scraps of lead for the purpose. These wedges don't need to be robust, they are just there to hold the panel in place until the mortar is in.
Mortars
Mortars for stone should be of lime cement, or sand mastic. Don't use silicon, you'll never get it out again! Also don't use putty as this stains some types of stone and the oils leech in to the stone, causing the putty to dry and therefore the window ceases to be watertight.
Adjusting the placement of the panelTo help move the panel from side to side stiff oyster knives and lead knives are important. This allows you to get behind the edge and slide the panel to the side, especially when it is sitting on top of another panel to make the fine adjustments to get the lead lines flowing correctly.
Top and bottom rebatesFor the top and bottom rebates it is important that the top is the deep one. You insert the panel up into the slot and let it settle into the bottom rebate. The panel edges should be completely covered by the stone.
Extra cameIn all installations into stone, you should carry extra came of at least 12mm (1/2”) to solder round the panel when the stone work is not as accurate as it should be, either through workmanship or weathering.
Wedges
Have some little blocks of wood and some whittling tool to hand to wedge the panel in till mortared. It is possible to use little scraps of lead for the purpose. These wedges don't need to be robust, they are just there to hold the panel in place until the mortar is in.
Mortars
Mortars for stone should be of lime cement, or sand mastic. Don't use silicon, you'll never get it out again! Also don't use putty as this stains some types of stone and the oils leech in to the stone, causing the putty to dry and therefore the window ceases to be watertight.
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