Flashed Glass

Red pot metal glass is often undesirably dark in colour and very expensive. The method developed to produce red glass was called flashing. In this procedure, a semi-molten gather of coloured glass was dipped into a pot of clear glass. As the bubble became enlarged, the red glass formed a thin coating on the inside. The formed glass was cut, flattened and annealed as any other blown sheet.

There were a number of advantages to this technique. It allowed a variety in the depth of red – and other deep colours - ranging from very dark and almost opaque, and sometimes merely tinted. The other advantage was that the colour of double-layered glass could be engraved, abraded, or etched to show colourless glass underneath. 

Other base colours are also used in making flashed glass, for example red flashed onto a pale green base.  Also see this post on finding the flashed side of glass.

There still exist a number of glass factories, notably in Germany, USA, England, France, Poland and Russia which continue to produce high quality glass by traditional methods primarily for the restoration of ancient windows.

Cylinder Glass

Cylinder blown sheet is a type of hand-blown window glass. Large cylinders are produced by swinging the cylinder in a trench or blown into a cylindrical iron mould. The glass is then allowed to cool before the cylinder is cut. The glass is then re-heated and flattened. The result is much larger panes and improved surface quality over broad sheet.

Trench method

Cylinder blown sheet glass has been manufactured in France, Germany and Poland since the 18th Century, and continues today. It began to be manufactured in the UK in the mid 19th Century, although the only small remaining company has ceased manufacturing in the late 2010's.

Mould method

Machine drawn cylinder sheet was the first mechanical method for "drawing" window glass. Cylinders of glass 12 m (40 feet) high are drawn vertically from a circular tank. The glass is then annealed and cut into 2 to 3 m (7 to 10 foot) cylinders. These are cut lengthways, reheated, and flattened. This process was invented in the USA in 1903. This type of glass was manufactured in the early 20th century (it was manufactured in the UK by Pilkington from 1910 to 1933).

Crown Glass

Crown glass: The earliest style of glass window

The earliest method of glass window manufacture was the crown glass method. Hot blown glass was cut open opposite the pipe, then rapidly spun on a table before it could cool. Centrifugal force forced the hot globe of glass into a round, flat sheet. The sheet would then be broken off the pipe and cut into small sheets.  

This glass could be made coloured and used for stained glass windows, but is typically associated with small paned windows of 16th and 17th century houses. The concentric, curving ripples are characteristic of this process.

At the center of a piece of crown glass, a thick remnant of the original blown bottle neck would remain. They are known as bull's eyes and are feature of late 19th century domestic lead lighting and are sometimes used with cathedral glass or quarry glass in church windows of that date. Optical distortions produced by the bullseye could be reduced by grinding the glass. The development of diamond pane windows was in part due to the fact that three regular diaper shaped panes could be conveniently cut from a piece of crown glass, with minimum waste and with minimum distortion.

This method for manufacturing flat glass panels was very expensive and could not be used to make large panes. It was replaced in the 19th century by the cylinder, sheet and rolled plate processes, but it is still used in traditional construction and restoration.

Types of Glass

Glass Types by manufacturing method

There are several ways of categorising glass and this overview of glass types looks at the way the glass is manufactured.

Crown Glass

Crown glass is the oldest method of producing sheet glass and continued to be used until the 19^th century.  This method consisted of blowing a very large bubble of glass.  It was then spun rapidly over a pit until the bubble collapsed into a disc that ranged from 1500mm to 1800mm diameter.  

This gave the thinnest and least marked glass at the outer portion of the disc.  The centre was the thickest and became known as the bullseye.  The glass was cut to provide the best use of the disc.  This limited the size of panes to what could be cut from the disc.  Diamond shapes were often cut from the remainder and the central bullseye was used in less expensive glazing.

Corning Museum of Glass

Cylinder Glass

Cylinder Glass is a handmade process that includes broad sheet glass. It was widely used from the 17^th to the 19^th century, and now is limited to a few manufacturers.  

"Among the Glass Workers" Harry Fenn, 1871

An elongated bubble was blown.  The top and bottom of the bubble are broken off and annealed.  Later the cylinder is placed in the lehr for reheating.  It is scored and when it breaks open along the score, the glass is flattened. Characteristically, it has a gradation of thickness with thicker edges where the top and bottom of the cylinder were cut off.

From IdoStuff

Flashed Glass

A development in cylinder glass was to make the bubble of two colours, with the dark colour gathered first and then encased in clear (or sometimes other pale colours) and blown into a cylinder.  This made dense colours more transparent and enabled more detail through abrading and etching.

Drawn Glass

Industrialisation of glass production began with the development of drawn glass.  This method of mass production of window glass was invented and developed by Emile Fourcault in Belgium. Full scale production began in the early 1900’s.  

The glass is drawn upwards from a vat of molten glass until it cools enough to be cut into sheets at the top of the tower.  The process is subject to slight variations in thickness due to uneven cooling and gravity. It enabled much larger panes of glass without the astragals that are common in Georgian and later houses.  It was the most common method of producing window glass until the 1950’s.

Table Glass
Table glass is the process of putting molten glass onto a flat surface (the table) and rolling the glass flat.  This has been used from the latter part of the 19^th century to the present.  It enables textures to be pressed into the glass from the rolling cylinder.  It is easier to produce streaky and wispy glass by combining different colours on the table. 

Kokomo Glass Co.

This can be done as single sheets or further mechanised to roll out long ribbons of glass.  This is now mostly referred to as machine or hand rolled glass depending on the amount of mechanisation.

Float Glass

The glass that we now rely on for large clear windows began with the development of experiments by Alastair Pilkington and the company named after him.  This consisted of floating near molten glass on molten tin, hence the name, float glass.  This has been the standard method of glass for windows since the 1950’s.

Moretti Rods

Information on Moretti/Lauscha specifications:

Coefficient of Expansion (C.O.E): 104

Strain Point: 448C

Working Temperature: 926C

Annealing Range: 493 – 498C


Softening Point: 565C

Rods per pound: 15-17

Rod 
Length: Approx 1metre

Rod Diameter:5-6mm

from yglass.com

Float Glass Characteristics in Relation to Kiln Forming

A reported 90% of the world's flat glass is produced by the float glass process invented in the 1950's by Sir Alastair Pilkington of Pilkington Glass. Molten glass is “floated” onto one end of a molten tin bath. The glass is supported by the tin, and levels out as it spreads along the bath, giving a smooth face to both sides. The glass cools as it travels over the molten tin and leaves the tin bath in a continuous ribbon. The glass is then annealed by cooling in a lehr. The finished product has near-perfect parallel surfaces.

An important characteristic of the glass is that a very small amount of the tin is embedded into the glass on the side it touched. The tin side is easier to make into a mirror and is softer and easier to scratch. It also becomes apparent when compressed.
Float glass is produced in standard metric thicknesses of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 19 and 22 mm. Molten glass floating on tin in a nitrogen/hydrogen atmosphere will spread out to a thickness of about 6 mm and stop due to surface tension. Thinner glass is made by stretching the glass while it floats on the tin and cools. Similarly, thicker glass is pushed back and not permitted to expand as it cools on the tin.

The heat characteristics of Float glass depend in large part on which company manufactures the glass being used, so the temperature characteristics are given in ranges.

The softening point is around 760C

The annealing point is around 560—540C

The strain point is around 525-505C. The strain point being the temperature below which no further annealing can occur, but the glass can still be thermally shocked below this range.

The characteristic of float glass having a molecular level of tin left on the “tin side” but not the “air side” is important to distinguish. If any forming of the glass is planed after fusing, the tin side in compression will show a “tin bloom” similar to devitrification.

The fact that there are many manufacturers of float glass means that they are not all made to the same specifications. It is not advisable to fuse float glass from different suppliers in kiln forming, so the best advice is to fuse only from one sheet for each piece.

Due to the robustness of float glass, it can be fired with a quicker initial temperature rise than glasses formulated for kiln forming. The down side is that it devitrifies very easily and very badly. Rarely can you perform more than two firings before the devitrification begins to become troublesome.

Devitrification Prone Glasses

"Are there specific glasses that are more prone to devitrification, and knowing that, what steps can you take to try to avoid it?"


Glasses that are formulated and tested compatible for kiln forming are less likely to devitrify than other art glasses.

Opalescent glasses even if tested compatible for kiln forming are more likely to devitrify than their compatible transparent counterparts.

Yes, you can fuse some of the transparent glass made by a single manufacturer - Spectrum transparent and especially the water glasses are most often compatible within certain limits. But you will find that the edges show devitrification almost always. When using glass untested for compatibility, capping with clear glass often helps in reducing or preventing devitrification, as the clears seem less prone to devitrification than coloured glasses

You can clean very well and hope for the best, or you can clean and then use a devitrification agent - normally a flux or low firing glass in suspension - and spray or brush it on. If it is one of the low firing glasses in suspension, make sure you put it on before taking it to the kiln, as it will stick to other things when fired.

Another method is to avoid staying in the devitrification range of temperatures very long - both during temperature rise and cooling.

A description of what devitrification is


The temperature range in which devitrification occurs


A homemade devitrification solution

Float Glass in the Kiln

An important characteristic of float glass is that a very small amount of the tin is embedded into the glass on the side it touched. The tin side is easier to make into a mirror and is softer and easier to scratch than the air side. The characteristic of float glass having a molecular level of tin left on the “tin side” but not the “air side” is important to distinguish. There are short wave UV light sources to help determine this. The tin side gives a whiter glow than the air side. If any forming of the glass is planed after fusing, the tin side needs to be on the side being stretched, as when in compression the tin side will show a “tin bloom” similar to devitrification.

If the tin side is down on both sheets, and it is slumped into a mould there will be no tin bloom because the tin layer is stretched. If the tin side is up on both sheets and it is slumped into a mould there will be tin bloom because the tin layer is compressed. If you have placed the tin sides together, or on both the top and bottom, one of the tin surfaces will be in compression and so will show tin bloom. This is often mistaken for devitrification, and no amount of any devitrification solution will help.

A borax solution can help with the devitrification on float glass in some circumstances. It is not a perfect solution. This is because tin bloom and devitrification are often not distinguished correctly. But a high level of cleanliness and polishing the glass until squeaky clean is the best start.

The heat characteristics of Float glass depend in large part on which company manufactures the glass being used, so the temperature characteristics are given in ranges.

The softening point is around 760C

The annealing point is around 560—540C

The strain point is around 515-495C. The strain point being the temperature below which no further annealing occurs, although the glass can still be thermally shocked below this range.

Due to the robustness of float glass, it can be fired with a quicker initial temperature rise than glasses formulated for kiln forming. The down side is that it devitrifies very easily and very badly. Rarely can you perform more than two firings before the devitrification begins to become troublesome.

All window glass now seems to be referred to as float glass. However, the float glass process was invented in the 1950’s. Prior to that time, window glass was drawn. Float glass can use more iron in its composition, because it does not have to be drawn up out of a molten vat of glass as the drawn glass did and still does. Float glass is formulated to be stiffer at forming temperatures, whereas the drawn glass has to be flexible due to the mechanical stresses it is put under during the drawing. Except for low iron glass, the float glass has a distinct blue green colour when viewed through the edge. Drawn glass has a variation in thickness and is much paler when viewed through the edge. These visual differences can help distinguish the two kinds of glass, but are not foolproof.

More information on the general characteristics of float glass can be found here.

Iridised Side of Glass

It can be challenging to determine the iridised side of glass. The coating is very thin and so cannot be seen by looking at the edge. There are several ways of testing for the coated side. Two that I find useful are:

The pencil test – In this you put a pencil point or other point to the glass. You then look for the reflection at an acute angle to the glass. If there is a gap between the point and the apparent surface of the glass, the coating is on the other side. And in reverse, if the point is immediately reflected with no gap, the point is touching the coated side.

Another test is the fingernail test. If you have sensitive nails, you can feel the difference in surfaces by gently dragging your nails at an almost right angle to the glass. The rougher side is the coated one.

There are other tests but these two work for me.

Identifying the coated side of glass

Dichoric and iridised glass can present difficulties in identifying the side that has the coating. For some applications it is important to know which is the coated side to place it up or down or even to make sure the pieces are all the same way up.

Several methods are possible:

On coated clear glass you can use a pencil or other pointed object. Hold the glass so you're looking a glancing angle then bring a pencil down onto the surface. The coated side will show a clear reflection of the pencil tip and the backside will show a gap, or multiple image of the pencil tip.

If the glass is dark or black this method will not work conclusively. Instead you can use grozing pliers to nibble at the edge of the glass. The surface that shows damage to the coating is the coated side. If there is no damage visible to the coating, the other side is the coated one. You could mask the glass and sandblast a small corner. If the coating blasts away, that is the coated side. If not the coating is on the other side.

Having gone to all this trouble, mark up the glass side with a permanent marker to identify the coated side. Also mark each piece cut from it so you do not have to repeat the test on each cut piece.

Baoli compatibility with Bullseye

My tests have shown a variety of compatibilities from badly incompatible to apparently fully compatible. Each sheet will need to be tested against Bullseye, but this gives some indication of the extent of compatibility across the range. With my set of samples this indicated that 71% might be compatible, 23% showed stress and 6% were clearly incompatible.

All these were tested using Bullseye Tekta 1101.38 with a strip test. Again I stress each sheet of Baoli will need to be tested before use.

BB00-3 compatible
BB001 slight incompatibility
BB023-3 not compatible
BB024-3 slight incompatibility
BB031-3 compatible
BB032-3 slight incompatibility
BB059-3 compatible
BB063-3 compatible
BB071-3 compatible
BB072-3 compatible
BB074-3 compatible
BB081-3 compatible
BB082-3 compatible
BB091-3 slight incompatibility
BB101-3 slight incompatibility
BB211-3 compatible
BB0311-3 compatible
BB0410-3 compatible
BB0411-3 compatible
BB0412-3 compatible
BB0413-3 slight incompatibility
BB0414-3 compatible
BB513-3 slight incompatibility
BB0413-3 compatible
BB0414-3 compatible
BB0415-3 compatible
BB0416-3 compatible
BB049-3 compatible
BB0510-3 compatible
BB0511-3 compatible
BB0512-3 compatible
BB0513-3 compatible
BB058-3 compatible
BB711-3 slight incompatibility
BB712-3 compatible
BB812-3 slight incompatibility
BB911-3 not compatible