People sometimes fire a piece only to have it break after it
is cool. They decide to re-fire with
additional decoration to conceal the break.
But it breaks again a day after it has cooled. Their questions centre around thermal shock
and annealing. They used the same CoE from different suppliers, so it must be
one of these elements that caused the breakage.
Thermal
Shock
This is an effect of a too rapid heat change. This can occur on the way up in temperature
or on the way down. If it occurred on
the way up to a fuse, the edges will be rounded. If it occurred on the way up to a slump the
edges may be sharp still, but the pieces will not fit together because the
slump occurred before the slump. It the
break occurs on the way down the pieces will be sharp. The break will be visible when you open the
kiln. More information is here.
If the break occurs after the piece
is cool, it is not thermal shock.
If the break occurs some length of time after the piece is
cool, it can be an annealing or a compatibility problem. They are difficult to distinguish apart sometimes.
The annealing break usually crosses through the applied pieces
and typically has a hook at each end of the break. If the piece has significant differences in
thicknesses, the break may follow the edge of the thicker pieces for some distance
before it crosses it toward an edge. This kind of break makes it difficult to
tell from an incompatibility break.
An incompatibility break may occur in the kiln, or it may
occur days, months or years later. Typically,
the break or crack will be around the incompatible glass. The break or crack may follow one edge of the
incompatible glass before it jumps to an edge.
The greater the incompatibility, the more likely it is to break
apart. Smaller levels of incompatibility
lead to fractures around the incompatible glass pieces, but not complete breaks.
There is more information about the diagnosis of the causes
of cracks and breaks here.
Annealing
Another possible cause of delayed breakage is inadequate annealing. Most guidelines on annealing assume a flat uniform thickness. The popularity of tack fused elements, means these are inadequate guides on the annealing soak and annealing cool. Tack fused items generally need double the temperature equalisation soak and half the annealing cool rate. This post gives information on how the annealing needs modification on tack fused items.
Compatibility
The user indicated all the glass was
of the same CoE. This is not necessarily
helpful.
Coefficient of Linear Expansion (CoE) is measured between
0°C and 300°C. The amount of expansion over this temperature range is measured
and averaged. The result is expressed as a fraction of a metre per degree Celsius.
CoE90 means that the glass will expand 9 one-thousandths of a millimetre for
each degree Celsius. If this were to
hold true for higher temperatures, the movement at 800C would be 7.2mm in
length over the starting size. However,
the CoE rises with temperature in glass and is variable in different glasses,
so this does not tell us how much the expansion at the annealing point will
be. It is the annealing point expansion
rate that is more important. More information is here.
Compatibility is much more than the
rate of expansion of glass at any given temperature. It involves the balance of the forces caused
by viscosity and expansion rates around the annealing point.
Viscosity is probably the most important force in creating
compatible glasses. There is information on viscosity here. To make a range of compatible glass the forces of expansion
and viscosity need to be balanced. Each
manufacturer will do this in subtly different ways. Therefore, not all glass that is claimed by
one manufacturer to compatible with another’s will be so.
All is not lost. It does not need to be left to chance.
Testing glass from different sources is required, as you can
see from the above comments. It is
possible to test the compatibility of glass from different sources in your own
kiln. The test is based on the principle
that glass compatible with a base sheet will be compatible with other glasses
that are also compatible with that same base sheet. There are several methods to do this testing,
but this is the one I use, based on Shar Moorman’s methods.
If you are investing considerable effort and expense in a
piece which will use glass from different sources or manufacturers, and which is simply
labelled CoE90, or CoE96, you need to use these tests before you start putting
the glass together. The more you deviate
from one manufacturer’s glass in a piece, the more testing is vital.
In the past, people found ways of combining glass that was
not necessarily compatible, by different layering, various volume
relationships, etc. But the advent of
manufacturers’ developing compatible lines of glass eliminated the need to do
all that testing and experimenting.
While the fused glass market was small, there were only a few companies
producing fusing glass. When the market
increased, the commercial environment led to others developing glass said to be
compatible with one or other of the main producers of fusing compatible glass.
If you are buying by CoE you must
test what you buy against what you have.
The discussion above shows that even with the best
intentions, different manufacturers will have differences that may be small,
but can be large enough to destroy your project. This means that unless you are willing to do
the testing, you should stick with one manufacturer of fusing compatible
glass.
Do not get sucked into the belief
that CoE tells you anything important about compatibility.
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