Wednesday, 24 July 2019

Getting the Right Firing Temperature

“what temperature should I use to get a tack fuse that is just less than a contour fuse?”

This is the kind of question that appears on the internet often.  Unfortunately, no one can answer the question accurately, because it depends on some interrelated variables.

Kiln characteristics
Top or side elements, size of kiln, relative size of piece, all have an effect. Also no two kilns even of the same model have exactly the same characteristics.

Ramp Rate 
How quickly or slowly you fire has a big effect on the temperature and soak needed to achieve the desired result. This is the effect of heat work.

Temperature
There are no absolute temperatures for a given effect, given the above two variables.

Soaks
The length of time and the number of soaks will affect the temperature required to achieve your effect.

OK. So, what can I do?

Observation
The only certain way to get the effect you want is to observe.
Set a schedule, guessing the top temperature and length of soak.  Know your controller well enough that you can extend the soak or end the segment by advancing to the next.  Your manual will tell you how to do this.

Peek at intervals from 10-15C below the selected target temperature. Peek at 5min intervals until the effect is achieved.  Advance to the next (cooling) segment.  Record the temperature and length of soak at which the effect was achieved.  On subsequent firings you can experiment with reducing the temperature by 5C – 10C with a 10-minute soak.  Observe and record the temperature and effect as before.

The reason for going for a 10-minute soak rather than longer is to avoid holding at the target temperature for a long time, as that can help induce devitrification.  The reason for a soak at all is to achieve the minimum of marking on the reverse or picking up kiln wash or kiln paper on the back.

If effect is not achieved by the end of the soak, extend it by using the appropriate key or combination of keys.  Keep observing at five-minute intervals until the effect is achieved.  Advance to the next segment and record both the temperature and time.  The objective is to get the heat work done with a 10-minute soak, so you will need to increase the temperature on the next firing.  The amount of increase will depend on the length of soak required to get the desired surface on the previous firing.  The longer the soak, the more temperature you need to add.  You will need to repeat the observations and recording until you find a temperature that will achieve the effect with a 10-minute soak.

Use the lessons from the observations to lower temperature, extend soak, raise temperature, reduce ramp speed, or reduce soak as required.  It will also help you judge on other pieces the approximate temperature and time required for the new layups or new moulds.


1 comment:

  1. I suggest to all my kiln purchasing customers ...before the ever get into a project! They make a set of identical tiles, using 4-6" squares plus a mixture of scrap pieces, opaque & cathedral, close to the edge, lined up on at least one corner, frit, stringer, useing glass line or some other glass paint to mark the temperatue..whatever. Fire each one at 50F apart...1250, 1300, 1350, 1400, 1450...
    Once tiles are completed, stick them to the wall close to your kiln for future reference. You now have a physical example of what "your" kiln does at a specific temperature. You can tweek your firing to a desired textrue and program inside the range. It is a great exersize to get to know your kiln!

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