One of Karl Harron's deep slumped bowls |
Deep slumps require
multiple stages to get even drops without thinning the sides. There are several makers of staged slumping
moulds which allow progressively deeper slumps in a series of firings into
deeper moulds.
If you have a steep-sided mould, you will find slumping directly into the shape difficult. There will be uneven slumps, thinning of
sides, hang-ups, etc., among your attempts to achieve the slump in one firing. It is possible to mimic this series of moulds without buying the whole set.
To avoid these difficulties, you can build up the inside bottom of the mould by placing powdered kiln wash in the bottom and smoothing it to a gentle curve. You should aim for a gentle shape as in a ball mould.
After the first
firing, remove some of the powder, placing it in a clean container. Shape the remaining powder into a deeper
slump than the first one.
It takes some time
and practice to achieve a smooth even curve.
You can ease the shaping process by cutting the intermediate shapes from
stiff card. This can be rotated to
achieve an even curve in the powder.
Remove any excess powder and do a final rotation to give the powder a
final smoothing. Place the glass back on
the mould and fire.
It may be that you will
need to repeat this several times to get the full slump. Separate template curves need to be cut for
each slump if you are doing more than one intermediate slump. It does depend on
the steepness of the mould sides and the depth of the slump as to how many
stages are required. Sometimes the slump
can be achieved in only two stages.
After firing the
powder, pour it back into your kiln wash container, as it still is good for
mixing to apply to shelves, moulds etc.
This method is
useful for any mould that is too deep for achieving the slump in one firing,
and without buying intermediate moulds. Remember the final result will be smaller than the size of the deep mould, as the span of the glass becomes less with each deeper slump.
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