Are Holes Needed in Stainless Steel Moulds?

 “Do you drill holes in the bottom of the stainless steel moulds the same as with the ceramic ones? I imagine so, as the air issue is the same?”

When draping over stainless, holes are not required unless there is a depression at the highest point.  It is debatable whether required even then.  The steel is expanding more than the glass during the heat up and contracting more on cool down.  This effect means there is sufficient space for any air to escape.

In slumping moulds, stainless needs to have a significant draft to avoid the steel trapping the glass during its greater contraction during the cooling.  The bowl in the above image has a sufficient angle to allow the easy release of the formed glass.  The combination of the draft and the greater expansion during heating allows air to flow from under the glass, unlike ceramic where the glass is the faster expanding material.  The greater expansion of steel leads to less chance of the glass sealing to the mould and creating bubbles. 

However, there is no harm in being cautious by drilling small holes at the last places the glass will touch down.  These usually are at the join of the curve and the flat bottom.  The glass will touch down first in the middle of the bottom, so no hole is required there.

Freeze and Fuse

"Freeze and fuse" is a term devised to describe a technique to obtain complex edge shapes and some bas relief.

The basic method is as follows, although there are a number of variations that can be successfully adopted.

Mix enough water with fine frit to make a damp slurry.

Then place about 3mm into your mould and tap on a hard surface. Tap quite vigorously to bring any air bubbles to the top and compact your powder.

Use a paper towel at this point and blot off any water that has risen to the surface.

Continue to layer, tap and blot until you're level with the top of the mould.

The more you tap and blot out any water (and every time you tap, more will rise to the top) the better your results will be.

When your paper towel won't absorb any more water, you're ready to put your mould into the freezer. One to three hours should be enough, but it must be frozen throughout.

Take the frozen glass from the mould. Letting it sit while you programme the kiln will allow it to come from the mould more easily. Place the glass form on the kiln shelf. Raise the temperature as fast as you like to 90C. Soak there for at least half an hour to remove any water in the piece. Then raise the temperature at about 100C/hour (depending on the thickness and size of the glass form) to a low fire polishing or sintering temperature (about 720C to 740C). Higher temperatures will flatten the form and change its shape. Soak at this sintering temperature for an hour or so.  Check on the progress of the firing by peeking at 10 minute intervals and advance to the next segment of the schedule when  the surface begins to shine.  

If you are planning another firing, you should not fire beyond the first hint of a shine appearing.

Some experimentation is required to get the best combination of rate, time and temperature.

Experience will show you variations on this basic method.

Further information is available in the ebook Low Temperature Kiln Forming.

Air Brushing onto Glass

Air brushing paint and enamels onto glass can give extremely subtle graduations of colour and tone.

The consistency of the mix of the paint or enamel with the medium will need to be many times thinner than that used for painting with a brush. Also the air brush will need to be able to cope with the relatively large (in relation to inks and other paint) particles that make up the glass paint. This may require a little experimentation to find nozzle sizes that can cope with the glass paint particles.

There are two main media that you can use – there are others of course. Water and alcohol or methylated spirits are common and easily available. The advantage of spirits is that it evaporates from the surface more quickly. You do not need to use any gum arabic in the mix to help it flow. You could however add a touch of washing up liquid to overcome any surface tension within the mix.

The paint should be applied in steady sweeps across the area to be covered about 300mm from the surface. Start moving your brush before you switch on the paint and keep moving after you stop applying the paint. This avoids heavy applications at the start and finish. As there is no absorption of the moisture by the glass (as there would be on paper or board), you must pause after a very few passes. This is where the spirits show their value, as they evaporate more quickly than water, allowing you to apply the next layer sooner.

You can assist the drying by using a hair drier to gently blow warm air over the surface. This will also reduce the waiting time between applications.

One thing you will notice is that the paint will settle within the medium unless you agitate it frequently. So you should make sure the paint is evenly dispersed within the container by agitating it before starting each layer. The movement of the air brush during application will be enough to keep the paint suspended in the medium while you are applying the glass paint or enamels.

Heat Work is Cumulative

“…. the first fuse (contour) I brought it up to 1385°F and held for 5 minutes - it did not contour as much as I would like - do I re-fire at same temp and hold longer or go up in temp and hold same amount of time or something else?”

Observe

Of course, the smart answer is “Observe to get it right first time”.   Observation will enable you to determine when the piece is fully fired.  To observe you need only peek at 5-minute intervals to determine if the piece is as wanted. 

Know your Controller

In combination with this you will need to know your controller well enough to be able to advance to the next segment if the piece is done before the segment finishes; or how to stay on the same segment until it is finished and then advance to the next segment.

Of course, there are circumstance when you cannot or do not want to be present at the top temperature of the firing.  Then consider using the delay function to enable you to be present. This gives a countdown until the kiln starts.  The practice is fully described in this blog entry.

Time or Temperature

If you are experiencing an under-fired piece and want to re-fire it to get a better finish, the usual question is whether to fire for longer or at a higher temperature.

The response is – “Neither”.

Re-fire to the same temperature and time as before, unless you are looking for a radically different appearance.  Heat work is cumulative.  You have put heat into the glass to get the (under fired) result.  By firing it again, the heat will begin to work on the glass as it rises in temperature.  The piece, in this instance, is already a slight contour.  The additional heat of this second firing will begin to work just where the first firing did, and will additionally change the existing surface just as the first firing did.  The degree of contour achieved by the first firing will be added to equally in the second firing.  It is of course, a good idea to peek in near the top temperature to be sure you are getting what you want. More information on heat work is available here with its links. 

Rate of Advance

It is important to remember that on the second firing the glass is thicker, and you need to schedule a slower rate of advance until you get past the strain point – about 540°C for fusing glasses, higher for float and bottle glasses.

Future firings

At the finish of the second firing you will have soaked at the top temperature for twice the scheduled time.  You can use this extra time for the next similar firing, or increase the temperature slightly and keep the original firing’s length of soak. 

As pointed out earlier, observation for new layups, sizes, thicknesses, etc., is important to getting the effect you want the first time.

Equalising Effects on Both Sides of the Glass

The desire is to have the same degree of fusing on both sides of the glass is understandable.  An example is where a person wants to have their colourline paints equally matured on both sides of the glass in one firing.  This is difficult and requires a different strategy than normal fusing.

Background

Glass is a very good insulator, which means that heat travels slowly through it. Its practical effect is that we have wavy lines on the top and very crisp lines on the bottom.  This results from the temperature differential between the two surfaces.  This can be many degrees different during the plastic phase of the glass.  It is dependent on how fast the temperature rise is.  The faster the rise in temperature, the greater the difference as the glass transmits the heat from top to bottom so slowly.  The task is how to keep the temperature differential as small as possible.

Heat Work

The concept of heat work relates to the way heat is put into the glass.  It can be done quickly to a high temperature, or slowly to a low temperature and still get the same effect.  This shows glass reacts to the combination of temperature and time. Putting heat into the glass slowly allows lower temperatures to be used to achieve the desired effect, than fast rises in temperature.  The heat work needs to be applied slowly to achieve similar temperatures on both sides of the glass.  The thicker the glass the longer it will take to temperature equalisation.

The mass of materials also needs to be considered.  The glass will normally be on a ceramic shelf of 15mm to 19mm.  This mass also needs to heat up to the temperature of the top of the glass.  Until it does, it will draw heat from the glass,   pointing to the need for slow heat input.

The question that prompted this note was how to get glass stainers paints to have the same degree of maturation on both sides at the same time.  The maturation temperature of Reusche tracing paints is around 650°C.  If you use a normal rate of advance – say, 200°C – the bottom of the glass will be considerably cooler than the top.  

Methods to achieve the effect.

Some methods are worthy of consideration separately or in combination.

Use refractory fibre board as shelf.  This dramatically reduces the mass of the shelf to be heated up.  This kind of shelf requires more care to avoid damage than a ceramic shelf.  It would be possible to place smaller fibre shelves on top of the standard ceramic shelf rather than having one large fibre board shelf.  This will not be so efficient an insulating mass as fibre board on its own.  Also, it will not be sufficient on its own to obtain equal temperatures on both sides of the glass.

Use 3-6mm refractory fibre paper between shelf and glass.  This again reduces the heat sink effect of the ceramic shelf, but not as much as a fibre shelf on its own.  Refractory fibre papers are inadequate on their own - the scheduling is important.

Use very slow ramp rates.  A slow rate of advance in temperature is important to achieving equal temperatures throughout the glass.  Even using 3mm glass, the rate of advance might need to be as slow as 50°C/90°F per hour.  The corollary of this is that you will not need to use as high a temperature to achieve the effect.  Heat work means that it is not an absolute temperature that will achieve the desired effect.  The understanding of the relationship between the slow rates and temperature will require experimentation to establish the relationship.  For example, a satin polish of a sandblasted surface can occur at 650°C/1200°F, if held there for 90 minutes.

In this case, a 50°C/90°F rate of advance will probably not require more than 600°C/1110°F to achieve the shiny surface normally achieved at 660°C/1220°F with a 200°C/360 rate of advance.  At 50°C/90°F per hour, it will take 12 hours to reach 600°C/°F, although a little more than 3.25 hours at an advance of 200°C/360°F to reach 660°C/1220°F.  The input of heat acts upon the glass throughout the process, making lower working temperatures possible.  The reduction in temperature required is not directly related to the reduction in the rate of advance.  You will have to observe during the experimental phase of this kind of process.

If it was desired to fire enamels that mature at 520°C to 550°C/970°F to 1023°F you could put the sheets in vertical racks to allow the heat to get to both sides equally as Jeff Zimmer does.  But this will only work for very low temperatures and for quick firings, otherwise the glass will begin to bend.

There are limits to this strategy of getting upper and lower surfaces to the same temperature, both in terms of physics and practicality.  There are temperatures below which no amount of slow heat input will have a practical effect, due to the brittle nature of the glass.  Even where it is possible, it can take too long to be practical.  For example, I can bend float glass at 590°C/1095°F in 20 minutes into a 1/3 cylinder.  I could also bend it at 550°C/1023°F (just 10°C/18°F above the annealing point), but it would take more than 10 hours – not practical.

Revised 5.1.25

Glass Bending Temperatures

Glass bending is the process by which glass is shaped without obtaining mould marks on the glass.  It also attempts to shape the glass without changing the thickness of the glass across its length and width. It can be done as a free drop curve or into a mould. This bending is usually done at much lower temperature than slumping.

Determining the temperature at which glass should be bent is a matter of experimentation with each new shape and thickness of glass.  If the temperature is too high you find distortions are created in the glass.  Sometimes wrinkles develop.  In general, a high temperature leaves a lack of time to compress and stretch evenly into irregular shapes.  If the temperature is too low the whole process takes an impractically long time to complete.

The just right temperature is in the region of 50C/90F above the annealing point of the glass being used.  Experimentation with the shape and thickness of the glass is needed to establish a reasonable time for the bending; and for it to be achieved at a low enough temperature to get the shape required.

An example is this tapered cylinder.

 

Lantern frame for the glass

Mould shaped from the lantern into which the glass is to be bent

Flat template for cutting the glass

The bent glass

The curve was achieved in float glass at 590C/1095F in 20mins

A 1/8 sphere requiring bending in two directions was achieved in float at 570C/1059F in 45 mins to avoid ripples at edges.

The span as well as the shape affects the temperatures and times.  More information on bending glass is given in this blog entry, and is available in the eBook Low Temperature Kilnforming from Bullseye and Etsy.

Revised 5.1.25

Low temperature breaks in flat pieces

The usual advice in looking at the reasons for breaks in your pieces must be considered in relation to the process being used.  Breaks during low temperature processes need to be considered differently to those occurring during fusing.  

The advice for diagnosing breaks normally, is that if the edges are sharp, the break occurred on the way down in temperature. Therefore, the glass must have an annealing fracture or a compatibility break.  It continues to say if the edges are rounded it occurred on the heat up, as it broke while brittle and then rounded with the additional heat.

This is true, but only on rounded tack and fused pieces.

I exclude low temperature tack fuses from the general description of when breaks occur in flat pieces as it is not applicable at low temperatures.  

Low temperature flat work includes sintering, laminating, sharp profile tack fusing, etc.  There are lots of other names used for this "fuse to stick" work.  In all these cases, the finished glass edge will be barely different than when placed in the kiln.  It stands to reason therefore that you cannot know when the break occurred, as the edge will be sharp whether it broke on the way up or the way down.  

Periodic observation during the firing is the only way to be sure when the break occurred. These observations should coincide with the move from the brittle to the plastic stage of the glass.  Therefore, about 540C.  It can be at a bit lower temperature, but not a lot.  If the glass was not broken by that time, you can be fairly certain it broke on the way down.

Further information is available in the ebook Low Temperature Kiln Forming.

Fibre Dams

Fibre dams are a good and relatively inexpensive refractory material to form dams around regular and especially irregular shapes.  You need only cut the shape you want from the fibre board, if it is not a shape with straight lines.  

You can fire without any kiln wash or hardening if it is a one-off use.  For shapes you want to keep, you can harden the fibre board. 

Once hardened with colloidal silica, you need to paint the board with a separator – kiln wash, boron nitride or similar.

There are some precautions in the use of fibre paper and board.  The main physical one is that refractory fibre is lighter than glass and so will float on top of “molten” glass – that is fusing compatible glass higher than about 800°C.

Fibre board dams can be weighted with kiln furniture on the surface of the board.  If the board is flat this can be on the surface.  If the board is vertical, weights can be placed at the corners.

In the absence of fibre board, you can use layers of fibre paper.  If you have 6mm fibre paper, you need only one layer for two-layer glass, but remember that to get a bullnosed edge to the glass without needling, the fibre paper should be 3mm less than the final height of the fired piece. Thicker glass will require more than one layer of fibre paper.  Place as many layers of fibre paper as required to be at least equal in height to the finished piece on top of one another.  Push “U” shaped pins into the layers of paper to fasten the layers together.  Then cut the required shape out of all the layers all at one time. 

When finished cutting the shape out, you may want to line the edge with 1mm fibre paper to keep any of the layers of fibre paper showing through.  This dam will not need any kiln wash to prevent the glass sticking to it, unless you want multiple uses and so need to rigidise it with colloidal silica.

You can weight this fibre paper dam down by placing kiln furniture near the edge, all around the shape just as for the fibre board.

Safety in use of refractory fibre is described in Gregorie Glass.

Scroll down to Dusts/Particulates for safety recommendations.

Firing Glass Near the Shelf Edge

“How close to the edge of my shelf can I place a large piece?”

It depends in one sense how thick the piece is.  A 6mm piece that maintains the same footprint after firing as before, does expand beyond that footprint by about half a centimetre during the firing, so it would be safe to have a full centimetre space to the edge.  Thicker pieces will need more space – 9mm will need about two centimetres to accommodate the expansion at the top temperature. 

But

The real answer to this question is: When you know the heat characteristics across your shelf, you will know how close you can go to the edge for a relatively large piece. 

This Bullseye Tech Note number 1 tells you how to test the variations of temperature across your kiln. - http://www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/technotes-1-knowing-your-kiln.html

The objective in cooling glass is to have less than a 5C difference in temperature over the whole of the glass piece – top to bottom, and side to side.

If you have greater differences in temperature in the middle than that at the edges of your kiln shelf, you need to avoid placing large pieces in the danger area. Small pieces will not suffer by being close to the edges as their temperature differentials will be small.

I have found that the temperature differential in one of my kilns is great enough at the edges that I cannot have the edge of a relatively large piece of glass nearer than 50mm (2") from the edge.

Controlled cooling

It is sometimes stated that you can simply turn the kiln off below 370C and let the kiln’s natural rate of cooling take over the cool down.

This works for most flat 6mm pieces in most kilns, but as you work thicker or with greater contrasts in thickness, lots of tack fused elements or in a small rapidly cooling kiln, you do need to control the cooling toward room temperature.

The first thing you need to know is the natural cooling rate of your kiln.  

The rate of cool is not just about the annealing soak. The soak at annealing temperature is to equalise the temperature throughout the blass to have a differential of not more than 5C. 

The rate of cool is about avoiding thermal shock, too. The glass needs to maintain the temperature variation to less than 5 degrees Celsius difference throughout the glass as it cools.  This requires a slow controlled cool.  

You may program a cool of 100C to 370C thinking that the kiln will maintain that rate or less.  If the natural cooling rate of your kiln at 370C is 200C/hour, you risk thermal shock due to the rapid increase in the cooling rate.

You really do need to know the natural cooling rate of the kiln from the point you turn the programmer off to room temperature to be safe from thermal shock.

The alternative to turning off at 370C is to program the schedule all the way to room temperature.  The kiln will use no energy unless the kiln cools too quickly on its own.  At which point the program will kick in to slow the cooling of the kiln.

Finding Your Kiln’s Natural Cooling Rate

You need to observe how your kiln behaves while cooling without any power to be sure when you can safely &turn it off and let it cool without power.

Assuming you have programmed your kiln for a shut off at 370C, you need to observe every quarter hour or so to record both time and temperature.  From those observations you can calculate the cooling rate at the various temperatures.

Say at 6:00 your kiln was at 370C;

At 6:15 it was at 310C;

At 6:30 it was at 265C;

At 6:45 it was at 230C;

At 7:00 it was at 200C;

At 7:30 (you missed the quarter hour) it was at 160C;

At 8:00 it was at 140C;

At 9:00 it was at 125C;

At 10:30 it was at 110C.

To calculate the rate, you divide the temperature difference by the proportion of an hour between observations, as demonstrated in the following table.

Kiln Name/Description
Size
Shelf composition
Amount of glass
Observations
	Time	Temperature	minutes	Proportion	temperature	Rate of
1st	06:00:00	370	difference	of an hr	difference	cooling
2nd	06:15:00	310	15	0.25	60	240
3rd	06:30:00	265	15	0.25	45	180
4th	06:45:00	230	15	0.25	35	140
5th	07:00:00	200	15	0.25	30	120
6th	07:30:00	160	30	0.50	40	80
7th	08:00:00	140	30	0.50	20	40
8th	09:00:00	125	60	1.00	15	15
9th	10:30:00	110	90	1.50	15	10

Although this is an example, it shows how the cooling rate slows down as the kiln cools. 

If you were cooling a flat piece 12mm thick, you might get away with turning the kiln off at 370C, as a flat piece can cool as quickly as 300C/hr.

If you were cooling a piece 19mm thick, the natural cooling rate of the above kiln is too fast. 19 mm thick pieces need a cooling rate of 150C/hr, so according to the figures above you need to programme this kiln down to 230C to get the appropriate final cooling rate.

If it is a tack fused piece with a 6mm base and areas of two layers of tack fusing, you should fire as though it is 24mm thick.  In this case, the final cooling rate needs to be 90C/hr.  For the kiln in the example above, that rate is not achieved until below 160C, so that is the minimum temperature for switch off.

This method can be used for any temperature range.  For example, you may want to know the rate of cooling from the top temperature to the annealing temperature.  This method will work there too. You may want to record the temperatures more frequently than every quarter of an hour though.

Further information is available in the ebook Low Temperature Kiln Forming.

You really need to know your kiln’s natural cooling rate before you can be confident of switching the kiln off at 370C.  This blog shows a method of determining the natural rate of cooling.