Wednesday 2 June 2021

Bubbles on Drop-out Rims



Sometimes people doing dropouts get bubbles or unevenness on the rims of their pieces.  This means that it is not suitable to leave the rim on the piece.  Most times, this does not matter, as you intend to cut the rim away. But if you do want to have a rim these uneven surfaces are unsightly and not suitable for high quality pieces.

One person has indicated that they used a schedule of 250°C per hour to 520°C for a 30-minute soak and then proceeded at 330°C to the top temperature of 710°C.  This is probably too fast a heat up at the second segment.  Slower rates of advance are advisable.

One of the advantageous methods of scheduling for dropouts is to put the heat into the glass steadily.  I suggest there are two problems with the rates of advance and soaks in the above (partial) schedule.

The soak at 520°C would be more useful if it were at around 600°C.  This would allow the heat to be distributed throughout the glass before it begins to droop significantly.

The rapid advance of 330°C is much faster than needed, or desirable.  This rapid rate of advance allows the glass to move into the aperture, before the rim is plastic enough to stay on the supporting ring.

These rough drawings show how the rim initially rises from the ring, pivoting on the edge of the aperture.  This happens on all moulds (drops or slumps) where there is a rim.



With a rapid rise in temperature the raised rim edge gets more heat than the depressed middle, as it is closer to the elements.  This additional heat allows the edge of the rim to curve downwards forming air pockets as the edge touches back to the supporting ring.

Some people use fibre paper between the ring and the glass to prevent bubbles. This addition allows a passage of air from under the glass and reduces bubble formation.

Others have developed sloped drop out rings that eliminate the rising of the glass from a flat ring.  The glass is suspended above the aperture and only touches the edge of it as the glass softens. These crude drawings show the process.




To be certain of avoiding air bubbles under the rim of dropouts whatever the style of ring, you should use moderate rates of advance, with a possible soak at around 600°C which is before the glass begins any significant movement. The moderate rate of heating should be continued after this soak, rather than increased.


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