Domed drapes

 

Apologies.  I failed to keep the name of the maker.

A draped bowl didn't end up with a flat bottom. What schedule would flatten it out again and what to fix to get a flat bottom?

Drape schedule:

• 167°C/300°F – 527°C/980°F, 30’
• 111°C/200°F – 710°C/1310°F, 10’
• AFAP – 472/880°F, 1:00

Scheduling Factors

Ten minutes soak time at this top temperature is not enough time to allow the glass over the top to relax and become flat. To understand the dome formation on the top of the bowl drape mould, visualise the way the glass moves during the drape. I will attempt to describe it, but peeking at intervals from 55°C/100°F below the top temperature will show better than I can explain, of course. At the beginning of the drape, the weight of the glass at the edge bends the glass into a domed shape because it is not yet at a low enough viscosity to conform to the flat base. It is not until it has absorbed enough heat that it can begin to stretch and sink towards the mould surface at what will be the base of the glass piece.

At the rate used, the glass needs more time to absorb the heat to allow the glass to relax to the central surface. The extra time may lead to distorted edges, of course. So, a slower rate up to the top temperature may be the best solution. It is a curious fact that clear glass does not react as coloured glass does. It seems the infrared radiation goes through the clear in a way that it does not with coloured glass. This lower viscosity of the clear than coloured glass may be an additional factor in in allowing the dome to form.

The possibility of trapped air holding the glass up is not likely. At 710°C/1310°F the glass will not have made a seal with the upper edge of the mould. 

Drilling a hole in the supporting mould will not solve the problem, but it won’t create another either. Just as in draping a votive, a hole is not necessary, but of course the draping is done at a higher temperature. The amount of heat work the glass receives is important to the glass being able to relax to the surface of the mould.

The drape schedule

• 167°C/300°F – 527°C/980°F, 30’
• 111°C/200°F – 710°C/1310°F, 10’
• AFAP – 472°C/880°F, 1:00

This schedule is suspect for two main reasons. The first segment might be best maintained to 621°C/1150°F. The second segment ramp rate might be reduced to 33°C/50°F to 740°C/1364°F for up to 30 minutes to allow the glass to relax to the base part of the mould while the rest of the glass continues to drape. Observation, by peeking at intervals, from 720°C/1328°F until the glass has fully formed flat at the base and is fully draped, will indicate when the segment should be skipped to the anneal. 

Anneal

And, although the annealing temperature is not the cause of the dome, the anneal temperature used is not one normal for either Oceanside or Bullseye and could be responsible for a later break due to inadequate annealing.  

If not a typo, 472°C is below the accepted annealing temperature for any of the fusing glasses, and is so near the strain point that it will be difficult to anneal at all. If the glass is Oceanside, the anneal temperature is 510°C/960°F; if Bullseye the anneal temperature is 482°C/900°F. The soak time indicates the glass is being annealed as for two layers. The associated cool rate for 6mm is:

• 83°C/150°F to 427°C/800°F, 0 minutes, 

• 150°C/270°F to 371°C/700°F, or to room temperature.

However, this is a tack fused piece of a single layer plus 3 to 6 mm of decorative elements. So, it should be fired as though twice the 9mm thickest part, or 19mm. This profile of glass needs three hours anneal soak, and cooling rates of:

• 25°C/45°F to 427°C/800°F

• 45°C/81°F to 

• 371°C/700°F

• 180°C/270°F to room temperature

Note that this tack fuse profile needs cooling rates all the way to room temperature. If your kiln cools at a quicker rate from 371°C/700°F than 180°C/270°F, the schedule should include that final segment to room temperature.

Anneal Cooling

In the original schedule, there were no cooling rates given, as though the kiln will cool slowly enough (the natural cooling rate)to achieve a good anneal. This is rarely the case for any thing being fired for more than 3mm. The purpose of controlled cooling is to initially maintain the small difference in temperature across the whole piece to avoid it increasing. As the glass temperature falls below the strain point, it can withstand greater temperature differentials, but the temperature fall still needs to be controlled enough to avoid large contraction differentials. For thicker glass, the rate to room temperature also needs to be controlled.    

This piece is being fired as for 19mm and does need controlled cooling to avoid inadequate annealing and possible fractures from too quick cooling.

Layup

One thing that may have helped the formation of a flat bottom would be to have a tack fused a disc of clear, the same size as the base of the former in the first fuse. This would give additional weight to the glass and help to flatten the base sooner. The bending of the outer edges of the draping glass, would not pull the glass on the base into such a large dome, and possibly not at all. Think about weight when draping, as the heaviest will tend to fall first.

Relieving Existing Stress - How?

Why is the stress not relieved after the strain point when slumping?

The answer relates to whether it is on the cool or on the heat up.

Cooling

The annealing occurs at a higher temperature than the strain point. The aim of the annealing soak is to even out the temperature within the glass to be equal to or less than 5°C/10°F (∆T=5C). When this small differential in temperature is achieved, there is little stress in the glass. In an adequate anneal, stress will be relieved during the soak. This differential needs to be maintained through the first cool, taking the glass temperature to below the strain point.

Relieving stress occurs between the glass transition point to just above the strain point. The viscosity of the glass is so high below the strain point (brittle phase) of the glass that no stress can be relieved.

The more rapid cooling during the brittle phase of the glass needs to be slow enough to avoid creating large contraction differentials within the glass. The reason for progressive cooling stages during the brittle phase of the glass is that it can withstand greater temperature differentials and so the cooling rates can be increased.

Heat up

Any stress on the way up for an already fused piece is induced by uneven heating. This can be across the piece, which is most evident in side fired kilns. The source of the infrared heating is nearest the edge of the glass, so it heats first leaving the centre cooler – sometimes the difference in expansion is great enough to break the glass.

In top fired kilns the differential is usually between top and bottom surfaces. Glass transmits heat slowly so the difference in temperature between the top and the bottom can be enough to cause a break from unequal expansions.

Both these conditions are caused by rapid ramp rates and short anneals on the cool.

Ramp Rates

Breaking of a flat piece on the kiln shelf is from too short a soak or too fast a cool, or both (unless there is an incompatibility). Breaking in a slump most often is a result of too rapid an initial ramp rate. A fused piece needs slower ramp up rates in a slump than in the initial fuse. It is now a single thicker piece, rather than multiple pieces as at the beginning of a fuse. While you might fire a flat 6mm/0.25” piece at 200°C/360°F for the fuse, the ramp rate for the slump needs to be no more than about 100°C/180°F. Tack fused pieces need much slower heat up rates during the slump, usually only half of the rate used to fuse the piece.

Tests have shown that even though the anneal soak for both firings can be the same, a more stress-free piece can be achieved by annealing as for one layer thicker. I do not know why, but I speculate that it is more difficult to achieve the ∆T=5C in the curved piece, than in a flat one.

More information is available in the ebook Annealing Concepts Principles and Practice.

Shotgun Annealing

 Shotgun annealing is chosen when the annealing temperature is unknown or uncertain. The name comes from the characteristic spread of the shot pellets to include the target.

To follow this process, pick highest relevant anneal temperature. We know soda lime glass has a range from about 540°C/1004°F to 470°C/878°F. Unless you are firing float glass (which anneals between 540°C/1004°F and 520°C/968°F), you can start the anneal cycle at 520°C/968°F and continue it to 470°C/878°F (a 50°C range). The rate to be used is determined by the amount of time required to anneal the piece according to thickness.

To be safe, a shotgun anneal will need double the time to go through the chosen range that a normal anneal soak requires.

• A 6mm/0.25” full fused piece would normally need an hour soak. So the shotgun anneal rate would be 25C/45F per hour over a 50°C/90°F range.
• A 12mm/0.5” full fused piece would normally need a two hour soak. This implies a rate of one quarter of the range or a cool rate of 12°C/22°F over the range.
• A 6mm/0.25” tack fused piece would need to be fired for twice its thickness, so as for 12mm/0.5”.

Annealing times for different profiles and thicknesses are given in this blog post:  and in this ebook.

If the glass is really unknown or older than fusing glass, a wider shotgun anneal range should be used. This gives a temperature range of 540°C/1004°F and goes to 470°C/878°F, or a range of 70°C/126°F. There is still a requirement for the shotgun process to be double the normal anneal soak.

• So for a 6mm/0.25” full fused piece two hours are required to go through the range, or 35°C/63°F per hour.
• A 12mm/0.5” full fused piece and a 6mm/0.25” tack fused piece will need a rate that takes 4 hours to go through the range, or 18°C/32°F per hour.

Once the slow fall of temperature through the range is complete, there should be a one hour soak to ensure the temperature has been equalised throughout the reduction in temperatures. This is applicable to pieces 12mm/0.5” thick. Thicker pieces need a longer soak at this point.

The final part of the anneal is cooling at a rate appropriate for the thickness and profile. E.g.:

• A 6mm/0.25” full fused piece would be cooled at 83°C/150°F to 427°C/800°F, and then at 150°C/270°F to 370°C/700°F or lower.
• A 12mm/0.5” full fused piece needs a two hour soak, so the cooling rates are determined by that, i.e., 55°C/99°F per hour to 427°C/800°F and then at 99°C/178°F per hour to 370°C/700°F or lower.

There is an alternative process which is used to determine the annealing temperature of an unknown glass. Once the anneal temperature is determined for a glass, there is no need for a shotgun anneal process. This is known as the slump point test. 

Much more on the principles and practices of annealing can be found in my e-book. Annealing Concepts, Principles and Practice from Bullseye, Etsy and stephen.richard43@gmail.com

Annealing temperatures by colour

 It has been suggested that there are different annealing temperatures for different colour groups. This is not so.

All the colours in a single fusing compatible range are annealed at the same temperature. It is true that there are variations in the viscosities of different colours, but these are designed by the makers to be minor. Also relevant is that annealing can occur over a range, making concern about different viscosities within a fusing compatible line of glass less important. The anneal soak gives time for all the glass to reach the same temperature differential of ∆T = 5°C, where the viscosity differences will be so small as to be insignificant.

There are precautions that should be observed when combining strongly contrasting colours or contrasting styles. In general, hot and dark colours are less viscous than light and cool colours at slumping and above temperatures. There are also contrasting viscosities between opalescent and transparent colours. A cautious approach to these differences in viscosities is to anneal them as for one layer thicker than that for the profile of the finished item.

The annealing temperature remains the same for all the glass in a fusing compatible line, regardless of colour or style. The length of the anneal soak and cool rates may be altered for these contrasts, but not the anneal temperature.