Soldering old lead

This is normally only a requirement when repairing old windows. Usually either to join new lead to the old, or to repair breaks at the original solder joint.

You will need to clean the lead down to the bright metal at the joints. This is more than a rub with steel wool. You need a glazing nail to scratch through the oxidisation layer, the corner of your lead knife, or in cases of mild oxidisation, a brass wire brush might do. But not a steel one as that may scratch the glass and any painting.  

Do not clean the oxidisation off the lead elsewhere. That is a protective layer already formed which leads to the longevity of the came. It is best to leave oxidised lead alone rather than expose the metal to further oxidisation.

Getting to the bright metal where you want to solder the joint means the flux can act appropriately and help the solder form a secure joint.  Otherwise only a weak, cold joint is possible.

Note that you always need to use dust masks or other breathing protection.  You need to have the work area well ventilated and need to do a damp wipe down of surfaces to reduce the amount of lead oxide in the work space.

Using Cut Running Pliers Without Cushions

Using Cut Running Pliers Without Cushions

There are a wide variety of cut running pliers for different purposes.  A description of some of them is here.

This post is to describe maintenance and use of this kind of cut runner.

The plastic covers that come with these cut runners eventually wear out.  The replacements are hard to find. There are things you can do other than buying a new pair just for the shields.

You can dip the jaws in tool coating compounds such as Plastidip.  This does not last as long as the plastic, but is easy to re-do.

You can wrap the jaws in tape.  Electrical tape, duct tape or even self-adhesive elastic bandage will do the job. Again, not long lasting, but easy to replace.

Or

You can use the cut running pliers without any covering on the jaws.  “You can’t do that. You will crush the glass!” is the response I hear.  You can use them bare. I do, and so can you.

The key is in the adjusting screw.  It is there not just to tell you which is the top of the pliers; it has a function too.  That screw adjusts the opening of the jaws to the thickness of the glass. 

A simple way to ensure you have the correct opening is to put one corner of the jaw on the edge of the glass with the jaw opening less than the glass is thick. Then tighten the screw until you feel the handles of the pliers begin to open.  Then you have the right opening for the thickness of the glass. 

It ensures you cannot crush the glass, as the jaws will not close at the centre to be less than the glass thickness. 

You also have a more direct feel of the glass without the spongy connection of the plastic. You can sense the glass beginning to bend just before the score runs due to the gentle pressure of the jaws of the cut runners on either side of the score.

Whether you use the cut runners with or without cushions on the jaws, it is important to keep the adjustment screw lubricated so you can adjust the width of the jaw opening for different thicknesses of glass.

Polishing with Cerium Oxide

If you want to go beyond cork in your polishing, cerium oxide will give an optical polish.

You need to grind your glass at 800 or higher grit, or use the cork belt after 400grit. Any rougher surface will not give a smooth polished surface. It will only polish the high spots.

Many do not like to use cerium oxide as it is messy. Especially so on a wet belt sander as the speed is really too fast for the use of polishing pastes. The speed sprays the slurry all over the place.

You need a felt wheel or belt to which you apply the cerium oxide. First you mix the cerium with water to a yoghurt consistency and apply that to the wheel or belt. Begin polishing and add more water and cerium paste as the polishing surface dries. You will notice this as the glass will begin to drag. Do not delay, add more of the paste before continuing. Otherwise you will heat up the glass and risk breakage.

His Glassworks has good descriptions and videos on use of cerium oxide.

It is helpful to mark the glass with a paint or china marker before starting the polishing process to show the areas that are to be polished. This enables you to see what work has been done without completely drying the piece.

For large surfaces you will need to use a horizontal grinder with a polishing pad attached, or a hand held polisher.

An alternative is to use “trizact” belts that are about 4000 grit. These achieve a polish that is very good, if not as optical as with cerium oxide.

Commissioning

Commissioning a stained glass window, screen or lamp involves entering into a contract with the designer/maker. It is therefore important that both client and maker know exactly what is involved.

· The price of the work should be established. The materials used in the making of a window, especially the glass itself, can be expensive and the possibility of commissioning a well-designed leaded light should not be ignored.

· The maker will need to know the budget for the work and will provide an estimate, and may require a down payment before beginning work and perhaps payment by instalments, depending upon the cost of the materials involved.

The designer will prepare a preliminary design, according to the client's brief.

· The design should indicate the nature of the construction and the position of any ferramenta or physical support.

· This design should be as detailed as possible. It may be accompanied by samples of the proposed glasses.

· The client must be prepared to recompense an artist for design(s) prepared according to a brief, whether or not it proceeds to execution.

· The copyright in all cases remains the property of the artist.

The arrangements for the execution of the commission must also be satisfactorily established, including those for installation. If necessary, the advice of an architect should be sought; for church commissions, the architect responsible for the church should be involved from the outset. If the window is to be sited in an exposed position or in an area where vandalism is known to be a problem, protective measures should be considered.

Also look at Commission Agreements

Iridised Side of Glass

It can be challenging to determine the iridised side of glass. The coating is very thin and so cannot be seen by looking at the edge. There are several ways of testing for the coated side. Two that I find useful are:

The pencil test – In this you put a pencil point or other point to the glass. You then look for the reflection at an acute angle to the glass. If there is a gap between the point and the apparent surface of the glass, the coating is on the other side. And in reverse, if the point is immediately reflected with no gap, the point is touching the coated side.

Another test is the fingernail test. If you have sensitive nails, you can feel the difference in surfaces by gently dragging your nails at an almost right angle to the glass. The rougher side is the coated one.

There are other tests but these two work for me.

Combination Grozing/Breaking Pliers

Description
The jaws of grozers are serrated and used to gently remove small pieces of glass which remain after the glass has been scored and broken. They are normally supplied with one straight jaw and one curved making them combination grozing and breaking pliers.

Use as breaking pliers
When used as breaking pliers the flat side should be up and the nose of the jaws almost touching the score line. The breaking pressure should be down and slightly to the side to bend and pull the piece away from the main piece of glass.

Use as grozers
When used a grozers – to gently wear away some small part of glass - the curved jaw should be up. The plier jaws should be used slightly open, and a downward motion of the plier does a “rasping” of the glass edges, taking away small bits of glass. With experience, a lot of glass can be removed quickly shaping the glass with a fair degree of precision. The edge can then be tidied by a grinder if required.

Handling Large Sheets

PreparationUse proper glass handling gloves.

Wear closed toe shoes, preferably with steel toe caps. This also allows you to set the glass on your toes prior to changing your grip to place the glass in the rack.

Clear the passage ways of all obstructions, whether on the floor or at the walls and door ways before moving any glass.

Lifting from horizontal
The transition between horizontal and vertical is important because the glass sheet can break if it does not have the proper support. However, there is a tried and true method for laying glass down and turning it over.

Rest the glass on the edge of the bench, half on, half sticking off. Support both sides of the sheet. Then pivot it to the horizontal, still resting the middle of the glass on the edge of the bench as your fulcrum. This provides support at the middle during the transition from vertical to the horizontal of the bench top.

CarryingTo carry large sheets of glass safely (for yourself and the glass), you need to support from below as well as the end. One gloved hand goes under the bottom and the other on the side. The glass is then carried vertically, with the edges at an angle. This is done in a manner so that the glass is on the side of your body with both palms are facing outwards. If there is a trip or other accident, the glass will be tipped away from the body. This sounds awkward, but is safe and easy when you get used to it. It also is the glazing industry standard method of carrying glass.

If the glass is too heavy to lift in this way, use suckers and get others to help.

If the glass breaks while carrying it just let it drop. Trying to catch or save it will lead to a hospital visit.

Always set the glass edges down on a cushioning material. This can be wood, linoleum, carpet, etc.

Transporting

Store, carry and transport glass as near to vertical as possible.  You need to be careful when handling glass. In larger sheets it is very weak in a horizontal plane. It is strongest when it is in a vertical plane. (That’s why glass is always supposed to be shipped upright.)

If you are transporting a number of sheets, place paper between the sheets to avoid scratches and vibration damage or breakage. The glass should be tied tightly together, perferably on a rack. If you do not have a rack you can put into your vehicle, you can put the seat belts around the glass to keep it from flying forward in the event of an emergency stop.