Glass on rectangular
moulds often does not maintain a straight edge.
It pulls in and tends toward the “dog boning” of fused single layer
glass even if not so dramatic.
Explanation
The reasons for the pull-in on rectangular
moulds are similar to those for dog boning. You should note that squares are
special cases of the general class of rectangles. The discussion here applies
squares just as much as to rectangles.
If you grid the rectangular
glass, it illustrates that the glass in the corners is moving in two directions. It is moving and slightly stretching into the
mould. At the same time, it is trying to
compress into the corner of the mould. The
glass along the sides are moving in only one direction – stretching only
slightly and moving toward the bottom of the mould.
There is more compression than
stretching in the corners. The sides have only to move in one direction and
experience no compression and so move toward the bottom more easily.
Such is my explanation of the
experience.
Avoidance
The real question then is how to
prevent this pull-in that is so commonly experienced on rectangular moulds with
no rims. One way would be to avoid such
moulds altogether. This of course, is not practical, so some approaches to compensate or avoid the problem are needed.
It is possible to compensate
for this pull-in by slumping a rectangle with slightly bulging sides. Rather than a regular rectangle, you create
one with slightly outwardly curved sides.
Getting the exact amount of curve will be difficult and achieved only
after a number of experiments.
The opposite compensation would
be to round the corners of the glass, so there will not be so much glass to fit
into the corners of the mould. This
again will require experimentation to achieve a predictable result. And it often would interfere with the appearance of the final piece.
The easiest, but not always
successful, way to prevent the pull-in is to alter the scheduling for slumps on
such moulds. It is a well-known property
of glass that it does not have a single softening point, but progressively
softens with temperature and time. You
can take advantage of this by using four elements in combination.
·
Use a slow
rate of advance to the slump temperature, to allow the glass to evenly absorb a
lot of heat on the way to slumping.
·
Use a low
slumping temperature This may be as much
as 30°C less than your usual temperature.
·
Use a long
soak at the slumping temperature. This
may be hours. You need to allow the
glass to slump into the mould without stretching. To avoid stretching, you need a low
temperature. At low temperatures, the
glass requires a lot of time to conform to the mould.
·
Observe at
10- to 15-minute intervals once the slumping temperature is achieved.
These processes are outlined in
a blog post on dog boning. Further information is available in the ebook: Low Temperature Kiln Forming.
Avoidance of pull-in of the glass on rectangular moulds is related to
scheduling and observance. There are
some compensations that can be tried, but require considerable experimentation
to be successful.
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