My new kiln fires differently than my existing one(s).
Each kiln will be different in minor or major ways. Suggested schedules are only starting points,
even though they worked in your previous kiln. You need to learn about your new
kiln’s characteristics in the same way you did with your first kiln. There are
a number of ways to do this.
Many people recommend making test tiles for the different
levels of fusing that you use and at different temperatures to determine which
is the best for your new kiln. Additionally,
you need to note the rate(s) at which you fired these samples to make the test
tiles accurate representations of firings.
Yes, these will be good references.
And yes, they are valuable if you have the time for all these firings.
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Observation during the firing of test tiles is the best and
quickest way to discover how your new kiln is performing at various
temperatures. In one firing you can note
the temperatures at which the various tack levels occur, and the contour and
full fuse temperatures. You can even
take pictures through the peep hole of your kiln (as long as you don’t put the
camera too close to the kiln!). This
procedure will make knowing your kiln much quicker and accurate than unobserved
multiple firings.
To make use of the notes of the temperatures where the
results were achieved in the test firing, back off 10°C (or 20°F) from the
observed temperature and add 10 minutes processing time. You may find after a few uses of these
temperatures you may want to adjust the temperature a bit more, but you will
have done the major experimental work in one firing.
It is a good idea to set up other test tiles and run the
experiment again at a slower rate of advance.
This will give you information about how the different rates of advance
affect the processing temperature and the look and texture of the piece,
especially on the bottom. The texture
imparted at different processing temperatures becomes more important in
slumping and draping processes.
In another firing you can set up various moulds and observe
when the slumps or drapes are complete. Recording this information lets you
know slump temperatures for various styles and spans of moulds. Make sure you record the temperatures that
the pieces slump fully into the mould. You can then back off 20°C from those
points and add 30 minutes as a starting point for you actual slumping firings.
New kilns require experience to know what the appropriate
temperatures are. Buy setting up test
tiles you can observe in one firing the various levels of fuse from tack to
full fuse, so saving lots of firing time.
Further information is available in the ebook: Low Temperature Kiln Forming.
I understand testing your kilns but I am new and need to know do you run small pieces of glass through the whole cycle or just bro g it up to your degree posted a d cool down?
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