The most common shapes for wall
hangings seem to be the “S” or wave form in various sizes, and flat pieces of
what ever outline supported by stand-offs.
There is another possibility. You can produce a shallow domed shape which
can work well for either landscapes or abstract pieces. They will be best if circular, although
rectangular forms can be used.
The usual resistance to doing this is
that the surface will be marked, or that the tack fused surface will be
flattened.
There is a way to do this without
either effect. Place the work upside
down on a mould of appropriate diameter or dimensions and fire the piece slowly
to a low temperature.
Raise the temperature more slowly
than you usually would for a slump in the normal way – top side up. This allows both surfaces of the glass to be
at the same temperature at the same time.
This equalisation of heat throughout the piece will protect against any
breaks or splits on the underside of the glass – which will become the top
surface.
Set the temperature for about 620C,
depending on the span of the piece. This
temperature will be suitable for pieces of 300mm to 400mm and 6mm to 9mm
thick. Pieces with a smaller span will
require higher temperatures or longer soaks.
Larger pieces will need a lower temperature.
You should set the soak at about 45
minutes. You will need to observe at intervals until you have the amount of
depression you wish. You will also need
to know how to advance to the next segment of the schedule when that point is
reached, so that you do not over slump the piece.
Since the piece only touches the
mould at the rim, and you are not allowing much movement in the glass, you will
not mark the glass with the mould.
This process of making a domed wall
piece will be unusual, although it will not be appropriate in all
circumstances.
More detailed information is available in the e-book: Low Temperature Kilnforming.
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