Wednesday 29 March 2017

Colourising Metals for Glass

There are many minerals and chemicals that are used to give glass its variety of colour.  This note attempts to give information on the most common elements and combinations used to impart the colours to the glass.


Antimony oxides produce white glass as do tin oxides.  Together with lead, antimony results in yellow.















Cadmium together with sulphur forms cadmium sulphide and results in deep yellow colour.  Together with selenium and sulphur it yields shades of bright red and orange. 

 






Chromium is a very powerful colourizing agent, yielding dark green or in higher concentrations even black colour. Together with tin oxide and arsenic it gives emerald green glass. Chromium aventurine, in which aventurescence was achieved by growth of large parallel chromium(III) oxide plates during cooling, was also made from glass with added chromium oxide in amount above its solubility limit in glass.














The material can be introduced into glass either in the form of chromic oxide or potassium dichromate, the latter being a more convenient form.  Potassium chromate is yellow and this colour can be imparted to certain glasses. To produce emerald green glass in which a yellowish cast must be avoided, the addition of tin oxide and arsenic is necessary.

Chromium is associated mainly with the production of green glass, but other colours from yellow through bluish-red, red to dark green or even black can be achieved in combination with other oxides.


Cobalt is the most powerful blue colorant used in glassmaking producing rich blues when used in potash containing mixes, but it can also give shades of green when used with iodides.  The deepest of blues are produced when used in glass containing potash.



Small concentrations of cobalt (0.025 to 0.1%) yield blue glass. The best results are achieved when using glass containing potash. Very small amounts can be used for decolourizing. Addition of 2% to 3% of copper oxide produces a turquoise colour.



Copper is a very powerful and versatile colouring agent when used in colouring glass.  Copper greens and blues are not difficult to produce, although the behaviour of copper in a silicate melt can be complicated.  Copper was used most profusely to produce green glass.  















Pure metallic copper produces a very dark red, opaque glass, which is sometimes used as a substitute for gold in the production of ruby-coloured glass. The art of using copper for ruby glass goes far back to ancient times but even so using copper oxide to make ruby glass can be very difficult. Today we find copper being used to produce turquoise blue tones.

















Didymium gives green colour (used in UV filters) or lilac red.



Metallic gold, in very small concentrations (around 0.001%, or 10 ppm), produces a rich ruby coloured glass (gold ruby), while lower concentrations produces a less intense red, often marketed as cranberry. The gold is used as gold chloride. The colour is caused by the size and dispersion of gold particles.





Iron is a very useful and powerful colouring agent even though it can be an undesirable impurity in making glass. Iron in its metallic forms cannot remain in equilibrium with glass and can be disregarded. But its ferrous and ferric forms are of a great help in producing coloured glass.  Iron(II) oxide may be added to glass resulting in bluish-green glass.  


Together with chromium it gives a richer green colour.  In a reduced condition, it can be combined with chromium to produce a deep green glass. 


Used with the combination of carbon or other reducing agents, sulphur and iron sulphides give a dark amber colour.




Lead compounds produce a range of yellows.



Manganese can be added in small amounts to remove the green tint given by iron, or in higher concentrations to give glass an amethyst colour.



Manganese dioxide, which is black, is used to remove the green colour from the glass. This results in a very slow chemical process where it is converted to sodium permanganate, a dark purple compound. Windows made with manganese dioxide solarise to change to a colour which is lightly tinted violet because of this chemical change.



Manganese in its low state of oxidation is colourless, but it is a powerful oxidising agent and can be used for decolourising purposes to oxidise the iron content.  Manganese is mainly used in the production of purple glass resembling the colour of potassium permanganate crystals. The purple colour is achieved by the trivalent manganese however in its divalent state it only imparts a weak yellow or brown colour.


Nickel, depending on the concentration, produces blue, or violet, or even black glass. It is used in the production of smoky coloured glass









Lead crystal with added nickel acquires purplish colour. Nickel together with a small amount of cobalt can be used for decolourizing of lead glass.  When it is introduced into lead crystal it gives a purplish colour, which compensates for a yellow tint produced by other constituents.



Selenium, like manganese, can be used in small concentrations to decolourize glass, or in higher concentrations to impart a reddish colour, caused by selenium nanoparticles dispersed in glass. It is a very important agent to make pink and red glass. When used together with cadmium sulphide, it yields a brilliant red.



Silver compounds such as silver nitrate and silver halides can produce a range of colours from orange-red to yellow. The way the glass is heated and cooled can significantly affect the colours produced by these compounds.














Sulphur, together with carbon and iron salts, is used to form iron polysulphides and produce amber glass ranging from yellowish to almost black.  With calcium it yields a deep yellow colour.  






In borosilicate glasses rich in boron, sulphur imparts a blue colour. Cadmium sulphides, which have a deep yellow colour, are often used in the production of glazes and enamels.



Tin oxide with antimony and arsenic oxides produce an opaque white glass (milk glass), first used in Venice to produce an imitation porcelain.





Adding titanium produces yellowish-brown glass. Titanium, rarely used on its own, is more often employed to intensify and brighten other colourizing additives.




Uranium (0.1% to 2%) can be added to give glass a fluorescent yellow or green colour.  Uranium glass is typically not radioactive enough to be dangerous.  It is often referred to as Vaseline glass by USA collectors.  When used with lead glass with very high proportion of lead, produces a deep red colour.














Chart
A good visual chart of minerals and resulting colours is here.


Influence of the glass-making process on colour.
It is not only the minerals that give the glass the colour; it is combined with the way in which the materials are treated.  The physical conditions under which the glass is made also have an influence on the colour.  The main ones are:
1.   The temperature of the melt/batch
2.   Temperature of reheat during the working of the glass
3.   The temperature of the 'Lehr' (Annealing Oven)
4.   Duration of the melt/batch
5.   Time and temperature relationship at different stages in production
6.   The type of colorant being used
7.   Concentration of the colorant
8.   Atmosphere of the furnace
9.   The composition of the colorant within the glass composition, as is the case when iron is added to glass. The type of iron oxide formed decides if the glass will be blue or yellow
10.                The number of times the same glass is melted. Repeated melting of the cullet will usually give a darker tone to the finished piece

Thursday 23 March 2017

Approaching a Gallery

Images of WorkMake sure that you have good quality images taken of your work (35mm transparencies, digital images for CDs or email), after all, you will be competing with practitioners that have been in business for years and are firmly established as leading national and international designers. Sending poor images/presentations reflects very badly on your approach and your work.

Invest in a professional portfolio filled to the brim with beautifully laid out colour photography on a black background. Don’t walk into the gallery with a handful of snapshots.

Sending Biography and VisualsSend general descriptive information about yourself and your work to the gallery first. Then follow this up with a telephone call. Find out the contact name you need for the relevant department within the gallery. If you send something with no contact name your presentation can sit in a pending tray for months! Contact as many galleries as you can handle, rather than waiting for a reply from the first one on your list.

Research and Make Appointments
Don’t just turn up at a gallery with your work. Galleries plan their exhibition schedule at least two years in advance. They are busy most days with artists and dealing with clients so it is always best to make an appointment first.

Pop in regularly to your local galleries, or research on the internet, to get an idea of the kind of designers they display, and the style and quality of work on show.

Keep in TouchContemporary galleries are always looking for new original designers for their exhibition programme, so update the gallery regularly by sending emails, transparencies and CD (with images).

It is especially important that the gallery can see how serious you are about your work, how it develops in style and that you are still exhibiting and producing work 2-5 years later. Make sure your work is unique and difficult to duplicate. Keep your own designs and patterns dated and own the copyright to them.

Don’t give up. There's someone out there who will like your work. When you find gallery owners who are crazy about your work, stick with them.

When you have an offer of a show
Watch the papers for announcements of other openings at the gallery to see how well each opening is advertised. Ask around the arts community to see how well known the gallery and its owner are.

Check on the gallery/artist percentage agreement when calling each gallery. Your price to the public must be calculated based on this. Charge what the work is worth!

Check around with other artists represented by the gallery, asking them about promptness of payment by the gallery.

Be businesslike in all dealings.Prepare a contract, if the gallery does not have one, to cover mutual expectations. It should include who does what, e.g., mounting of the work, invitations to the opening, opening night, payment terms, artist’s residual and resale rights, etc.

Don’t be a pain to the gallery owner. Don’t pester. If you have to be anxious about the show, do it privately.

Enjoy the opening night!

Wednesday 22 March 2017

Over Annealing

Sometimes the statement is made that you can never over anneal.  This statement is true only under certain circumstances. 

Annealing
The statement is also dependent on the understanding of what anneal means.  Annealing is the process of stabilising the temperature, ensuring the piece is at the same temperature throughout, and then gradually cooling the piece to avoid heat shock.  This is to point out that annealing is both the soak and the slow cool.

Long Soaks
Long soaks at the annealing stabilisation temperature can be injurious to your piece if the temperature in your kiln is not even.  This can mean that one or more parts of your piece are at different temperatures. This sets up stress within it.

Placing
You can reduce the possibility of stress by placing the piece at the centre of the kiln or avoid placing the piece in the cool spots of the kiln. 

Cool Rates
Another method of avoiding locking in the stress to the piece is to reduce the cooling rate to less than normal.  This will reduce the temperature differential within the piece.

Mass Being Cooled
In all this you need to remember that the anneal cool rate is relative to the mass of material to be cooled.  Therefore, a thick piece needs a slower annealing cool than a thin one.


But it is not just the thickness of the glass to be cooled.  You need to think about the mass of the kiln shelf or mould that supports the glass.  An example is that glass on a ceramic shelf needs slower cooling than one on a fibre board shelf, because the mass of the shelf needs to be taken into account as well as the glass. Connected to this is whether the shelf is on the floor - slower cooling - or supported on posts, allowing air to circulate under the shelf.

Wednesday 15 March 2017

Fibre board moulds

A publication on moulds from fibre boards is available from Stained Glass Supplies. This gives much more detail than this note can.  However, the basics are outlined here.

Commonly available refractory boards are:

·         Calcium silicate
·         Standard fibre boards
·         Armstrong ceiling tiles

They can be used bare (except Armstrong ceiling tiles) or hardened.

A question that will arise is whether to harden or not.  This depends on the durability you require.  A board that is not hardened does not require kiln wash when fired.  However, as it is soft it is easy to break.  A hardened fibre board mould always requires kiln wash or another separator.  It does become durable and almost rings when tapped once it is hardened and cured.  If the shape needs to be preserved for further use, hardening is advisable.


Working methods

Usually hand tools are all that are required to get the results required.


Safety

Do any work on refractory boards outdoors if possible, and with a respirator.  If you must do it indoors, have good ventilation, wear a respirator, and clean up with damp sponges or other absorbent material to avoid putting the dust back into the air.

Do you need to pre-fire fibre moulds?

Moulds that are small or thin do not erequire firing before using.  Thick and large fibre moulds do need to have the binders burned out before use to avoid carbon marks on the glass.

Sunday 12 March 2017

Advice on Commissioning Craft

This is an outline of information you can give to a potential client to help them with the process of commissioning.

If you have always imagined owning something unique and original, or like to be distinctive and stylish and can’t find what you are looking for on the high street, then commissioning could be the way forward.

If you are nervous about taking the next step and uncertain what is involved, these are the key stages.
Step 1: What do you want?
Step 2: Research by looking at ideas and images that suit your imagination. Note who is working in that kind of style.
Step 3: Write a brief of what you have discovered and then discuss your ideas with the artist you have identified.
Step 4: Discuss the budget and get a written quotation.
Step 5: Agree on the time frame for progress and delivery updates. There are sometimes difficulties in making unique items.
Step 6: Communicate regularly with each other.

Remember, because the process is about communication, there is the potential for misunderstandings and differing expectations by the commissioner and maker. Make sure you have thought the process through before proceeding and ensure all aspects are clarified in writing before you begin - including the quotation, payment schedule, time frame, etc.

And finally…… Enjoy it

The opportunity to commission a piece is an exciting experience and can be rewarding to both you and the maker. As long as you are prepared, and keep communicating with each other, you will become the owner of a unique and special piece of work which will bring hours of pleasure and will be the envy of your friends. 



The full information can be downloaded from craftscotland

Polishing Brushes

The polishing brush should have moderately soft bristles. A long bristled shoe polishing brush can be used, although one that is a little stiffer does the job more quickly.

A shoe polishing brush


It is important to keep these brushes free of hardened cement, as a brush containing pieces of hardened cement will scratch the leads rather than darken them. As soon as the polishing is finished, inspect the brush for little balls of cement. Rubbing the brush against a clean rough surface will clean it while the cement is “wet”. Also running the brush at an angle on the sharp edge of your work bench will clear some of the cement adhering to the bristles.

A polishing brush with slightly stiffer bristles


If the cement hardens, you can clean the brush by crushing the hard balls of cement with a pair of pliers. Or you can just get a new shoe polishing brush.

Saturday 11 March 2017

Drawing an Oval

Need to draw an oval for a panel? Here's how:
  • Set out the long axis horizontally.
  • Set out the short axis at the half way point of the long axis at right angles to the horizontal.
  • Measure half the short axis on each side of the long, horizontal axis.
  • Calculate half the measurement of the longest line. In this example the long line is 340mm and the short axis is 200mm long.  
  • Half the long axis is 170mm.
  • Use that as a diagonal measurement from the end of the vertical axis. 

  • Measuring from the end of the shortest line, mark off this amount on the longest line, right and left. You can use a ruler or compass set to the correct length, both will work.
  • Insert a pin at both these points.

  • Place a piece of thread, string - or in this case a quick release tie - round one pin. Tie a knot in the thread at the far end of the longest line.
  • Put a pencil inside the loop. Pull the thread taut and begin to draw the oval.  Keep the tension even throughout the drawing to avoid a lopsided oval.

For a leaded panel, the space occupied by the lead came will need to be accounted for in the measuring of the dimensions.

This is a simple method that does not require much in the way of tools, but its accuracy is a result of the degree of attention to details.

Wednesday 8 March 2017

Grinding and Polishing - Grits

Grinding and polishing grits and their effects

60 grit belts and disks provide a very aggressive grinding action. This grit takes large amounts of glass away very quickly. It makes shells and takes chips out of the glass with anything greater than light pressure. You need to create a small arris to avoid the shelling before grinding the face.  The metric size is 0.2337mm.

80 grit belts and disks provide a slightly less aggressive grind. But you must push lightly until you get the shape you want. On a new belt this is a remarkably fast process. Eighty grit belts can also take chips out of the glass, so be careful. Again an arris will help avoid the shelling.  The metric size is 0.1778mm.

100 grit belts and disks can also remove glass quickly with a new belt. Work at 100 grit until you get the shape or the big scratches are all gone from the 80 grit. As the belt gets worn, you may want to push harder to get the desired shape, but let the belt do the work. The metric size of this grit is 0.1397mm.

120 grit belts and disks remove scratches and still do some refining of shape.  The metric size is 0.1168mm.

200 grit belts and disks remove smaller scratches only. The shape of edge can still be adjusted, but only slightly. The metric size of this grit is 0.0737mm.

 400 grit belts and disks begin the polishing phase. Look for bigger scratches that you may have missed. The use of paint markers will help in this. Cover the the dry surface with the paint marker before beginning the polishing. This will show up any large scratches remaining after the first pass with the belt. If you find these, move back up to the level of grit that would remove any of the visible scratches, then work your way down again. The metric size of 400 grit is 0.037mm.

600 grit is a polishing phase. Take your time and move a little slower. At this stage, all the larger scratches should be gone and you are only polishing. The metric size of this grit is 0.020mm.

You can proceed to finer grits if you wish - such as 1200 (0.012mm) - but 600 is a practical grit at which to switch to cork and pumice, rouge or cerium oxide.

Cork is the final polishing phase before getting an optical finish with cerium oxide. The cork will grab the glass, so hold it securely. It is the friction between the cork and the glass that actually does the polishing. But do not let the glass overheat.

Grinding method You should not push hard with any of the grits. If you find that you want to get the work done more quickly, then it's time to put on a new belt or go to a coarser grit to remove the glass. You can use older belts as though it is a finer grit. The belts with finer grits will usually last a little longer than the coarser ones because the work is less agressive.

The grits of 100 and coarser are for shaping the piece.  The one you choose will be related to the amount of glass to be removed.  

After achieving the shape desired, it is usual to half the size of the grit (or in grit sizes - double the number) at each stage.  So after 100 grit, use 200, 400, and 600 one after the other.  

Of course you can do all this work without machines.  These grit sizes are available as loose powders.  The methods of working with a slurry of water and grit are described here.