Hazards of Flux Fumes

Note:  These health risks are those associated with industrial exposure – frequent and for extended periods.  They do not apply directly to occasional and shorter periods of exposure.

Risks are assessed as acute and chronic.  Acute means immediate reaction.  Chronic means the effects are cumulative and may take years to appear.
 

Composition of Flux

The major components of commercial flux are varying combinations and proportions of zinc chloride (or ammonium chloride), hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, and hydrobromic acid.  It comes in many forms and many brand names.  It is important to use water soluble flux in stained glass work to enable thorough cleaning.
 
 

 

Zinc Chloride Risks

Zinc chloride inhalation from smoke screen generators or smoke bombs may cause transient cough, sore throat, hoarseness, a metallic taste, and chest pain.  Exposure to high zinc chloride concentrations produces a chemical pneumonitis with marked dyspnoea, a productive cough, fever, chest pain and cyanosis. Pneumothorax and the adult respiratory distress syndrome (ARDS) have been reported. Fatalities have occurred….
http://www.inchem.org/documents/ukpids/ukpids/ukpid86.htm#:~:text=Toxicity%20Zinc%20chloride%20is%20corrosive,anorexia%2C%20fatigue%20and%20weight%20loss.
 

Ammonium Chloride Risks

Exposure to Ammonium Chloride is moderately hazardous, causing irritation, shortness of breath, cough, nausea, and headache. Most exposure is a result of contact with the fume form of this chemical (Ammonium Muriate Fume and Sal Ammoniac Fume), which is a finely divided particulate dispersed in the air. The fumes are capable of causing severe eye irritation. Consistent exposure can cause an asthma-like allergy or affect kidney function.
 
In the event of accidental contact, get immediate medical attention and follow these first aid measures:
·        Skin Contact: Immediately flush skin with water and disinfectant soap and use an emollient on irritated area.
·        Eye Contact: Rinse eye(s) with water for at least 15-20 minutes. Protect unexposed eye.
·        Ingestion: Rinse mouth thoroughly with water. Do NOT induce vomiting.
·        Inhalation: Move to fresh air and administer artificial respiration if needed.
https://www.msdsonline.com/2017/05/05/chemical-spotlight-ammonium-chloride/#:~:text=Exposure%20to%20Ammonium%20Chloride%20is,particulate%20dispersed%20in%20the%20air.
 
 

Hydrochloric Acid Risks

Hydrochloric acid is corrosive to the eyes, skin, and mucous membranes.  Acute (short-term) inhalation exposure may cause eye, nose, and respiratory tract irritation and inflammation and pulmonary edema in humans.  Acute oral exposure may cause corrosion of the mucous membranes, oesophagus, and stomach and dermal contact may produce severe burns, ulceration, and scarring in humans.
 

Acute Effects: 

Hydrochloric acid is corrosive to the eyes, skin, and mucous membranes.  Acute inhalation exposure may cause coughing, hoarseness, inflammation and ulceration of the respiratory tract, chest pain, and pulmonary edema in humans.  Acute oral exposure may cause corrosion of the mucous membranes, oesophagus, and stomach, with nausea, vomiting, and diarrhoea reported in humans.  [Skin] contact may produce severe burns, ulceration, and scarring…. Acute animal tests in rats, mice, and rabbits, have demonstrated hydrochloric acid to have moderate to high acute toxicity from inhalation and moderate acute toxicity from oral exposure.

 

Chronic Effects: 

(Non cancer): Chronic occupational exposure to hydrochloric acid has been reported to cause gastritis, chronic bronchitis, dermatitis, and photosensitization in workers.  Prolonged exposure to low concentrations may also cause dental discoloration and erosion.  Chronic inhalation exposure caused hyperplasia of the nasal mucosa, larynx, and trachea and lesions in the nasal cavity in rats.  The Reference Concentration (RfC) for hydrochloric acid is 0.02 milligrams per cubic meter (mg/m 3) … The RfC is an estimate … of a continuous inhalation exposure to the human population (including sensitive subgroups) that is likely to be without appreciable risk of deleterious noncancer effects during a lifetime.  It is not a direct estimator of risk but rather a reference point to gauge the potential effects.  At exposures increasingly greater than the RfC, the potential for adverse health effects increases.  Lifetime exposure above the RfC does not imply that an adverse health effect would necessarily occur.
https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2016-09/documents/hydrochloric-acid.pdf
 

 
Phosphoric Acid Risks

Phosphoric acid can be very hazardous in the case of skin contact, eye contact, and ingestion. It can also cause irritation if vapours are inhaled. This chemical can cause damage to the skin, eyes, mouth, and respiratory tract. Because of the potential hazards posed by this chemical, it is important to use care when handling it.
 
Repeated or prolonged exposure to phosphoric acid mist can lead to chronic eye irritation, severe skin irritation, or prolonged respiratory tract issues.  In case of accidental exposure to phosphoric acid, follow these first aid guidelines:

Inhalation — Seek fresh air and immediate medical attention.

Eye Contact — Remove contact lenses if present. Immediately flush eyes with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes and get medical attention.

Skin Contact — Wash skin with soap and water. Cover any irritated skin with an emollient. Seek medical attention. 

Ingestion — Do NOT induce vomiting. Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person. Seek medical attention if any adverse health symptoms occur.
https://www.msdsonline.com/2015/06/17/phosphoric-acid-safety-tips/
 
  

Citric Acid

Citric acid can be a minor skin irritant, causing itchy skin and even minor burns to those that are sensitive to it. Hands should be washed immediately if citric acid comes into contact with bare skin. Protective gloves should be worn during handling to avoid any accidental contact. The acid can also irritate the walls of the throat if ingested or burn the lining of your stomach if ingested in large quantities.
 
Eye Irritation - Citric acid is a severe eye irritant. Accidental contact with the eyes can occur … by touching the eyes after the acid has contacted the fingertips. …  Protective eyewear should be worn when working with citric acid under laboratory conditions. Eyes should be flushed with water immediately if they happen to come in contact with the acid.
https://sciencing.com/hazards-citric-acid-8165149.html

Remember that this irritation is equivalent to squirting lemon juice into your eye.  It is not a chronic risk.
 

Hydrobromic Acid (HBr)

Hydrobromic acid and hydrogen bromide gas are highly corrosive substances that can cause severe burns upon contact with all body tissues. The aqueous acid and gas are strong eye irritants and [tear producers]. Contact of concentrated hydrobromic acid or concentrated HBr vapor with the eyes may cause severe injury, resulting in permanent impairment of vision and possible blindness. Skin contact with the acid or HBr gas can produce severe burns. Ingestion can lead to severe burns of the mouth, throat, and gastrointestinal system and can be fatal. Inhalation of HBr gas can cause extreme irritation and injury to the upper respiratory tract and lungs, and exposure to high concentrations may cause death. … Hydrogen bromide has not been found to be carcinogenic or to show reproductive or developmental toxicity in humans.
https://web.stanford.edu/dept/EHS/cgi-bin/lcst/lcss/lcss47.html#:~:text=The%20aqueous%20acid%20and%20gas,gas%20can%20produce%20severe%20burns.
 
 
 

Precautions to be taken by glass workers

The risks outlined above are related to dealing with concentrated amounts of the materials in industrial settings.  Risk levels are much reduced in the craft setting.  The risks are mainly centred on breathing and eye exposure. 
 
It is important to wear masks of the quality that will deal with inorganic fumes.  In Europe these are designated as FFP2.  In general masks rated at N95, P95, or R95 are the level required for filtering out 95% of particles that are larger than 3microns.  Dust masks are not sufficient protection. 
 

Usually overlooked is eye protection.  The risks outlined here show that risks to eyes are equal to - or in some cases greater than – respiratory ones.  Eye protection is as important as breathing filters.  To fully protect the eyes, goggles of some sort are the minimum requirement.  Glasses will not be sufficient to prevent fumes reaching eyes.

 
For a “one stop solution” a full-face mask may be the simplest solution.  The filters on these are long lasting and replaceable.  They can be put on as one unit and are available in various face sizes.
 

At soldering temperatures, there are no lead or tin fumes created.  It is the fumes from the flux that are the risks in soldering.  These risks are small and can be dealt with by using adequate ventilation, masks, and goggles.

Lead Free Solders

 If you have problems with excessive corrosion of the solder bit when using lead-free solder, try a solder with 1% or 2% copper.

picture credit: reddit

 Without lead in the composition of the solder, the copper is gradually robbed from the bit during soldering. The solder gradually erodes the copper from the soldering bit in the absence of lead. In some, way the lead prevents the erosion of copper and so copper in the solder is not needed.

Picture credit\: RS Components

 Once the copper is eroded, the steel corrodes rapidly. The tips are steel with a copper plate. Eventually the steel is exposed. Then the corrosion occurs really rapidly.

 Having a bit of copper in the lead-free solder prevents the robbing of copper from the tip. There are a variety of lead-free solders available. Many have a little copper in their composition to prevent the erosion of the copper on the bit. There is a listing of some of them here.

 

 

Soldering Iron Temperatures

Why use higher temperatures for copper foil using 60/40 than lead came using 50/50 or 40/60? Melting temperatures Part of this is the physical characteristics of the solder The graph shows that all compositions of tin/lead alloy solder (above 20% tin) solidify at the same temperature - 183°C.  Pure lead melts at 327.5°C and pure tin at 232°C.  The various proportions of the two metals melt at different temperatures until at approximately 62% tin, the melting and solidification temperatures are the same.  This is ideal for running a bead in copper foiling, because there is a minimum amount of time for the liquid solder to change shape before it solidifies. Melting temperatures of some solders ·        At 40% tin and 60% lead (40/60) the melting temperature is 238°C.  ·        At 50/50 the melting temperature is 212°C.  ·        At 60/40 the melting temperature is 188°C, just 5°C above the solidification temperature. These figures show the 60/40 solder requires a lower temperature to melt than 50/50 does (24°C difference).  Why should I run the iron at a hotter temperature for 60/40 then? There are two separate elements at work here – the mass of solder being melted and the effects of the pasty range of solder compositions. In soldering lead came you are melting small masses of solder with short pauses between each melting that allow the iron to partially recover. This means running the iron at 370°C is sufficient to maintain a melting temperature above 238°C for 40/60 solder and 212°C for 50/50. In copper foil you are melting much greater amounts of solder, which takes heat out of the iron more quickly than in leaded glass.  The fact is that running a bead requires melting a much greater volume of solder.  The iron needs to run hot to be able to consistently melt the solder without significant periods when the iron is too cool to melt the solder quickly.  This is the reason that irons are run hotter in copper foil. It still does not explain why it is recommended to run the iron hotter for 60/40 than for 50/50 as their melting temperatures are so close. The explanation lies in the pasty range illustrated in the graph shown above.  You can run an iron hotter than needed to melt the solder, because the 60/40 requires fewer degrees to cool and solidify than 50/50.  This allows you to work quickly and still have a good rounded bead. The greater pasty range of 50/50 means that you must be careful about the amount of heat you put into the solder, because the solder will continue to move for a longer time than the 60/40.  The 27°C difference between melting and solidification shows solidification is not instantaneous. This pasty range allows flow while the solder cools. This means that the bead will be less rounded, and it will show minor temperature differences in the wrinkled surface.  If you put even more heat than the 410°C that is normally used for 60/40, it will take even longer for the solder to solidify.  The surfaces effects will then be even more obvious with greater heat.

The short answer

The explanations for running hotter with 60/40 than those solders with more lead centre around the pasty range of solder.  When the pasty range is small, you can put more heat into the solder bead and so work more quickly and still get a good bead.  With wider pasty ranges you need to reduce the temperature of the iron to reduce the heat put into the solder and so keep the pasty range as small as possible.

Melting Points of Solders

Common solders for stained glass are mixtures of tin and lead, respectively:

• 63/37: melts at 183°C (362°F)
• 60/40: melts between 183°C (362°F) and 188°C (376°F)
• 50/50: melts between 183°C (362°F) and 212°C (421°F)
• 40/60: melts between 183°C (362°F) and 234°C (454°F)
• lead-free solder (useful in jewellery, eating containers, and other environmental uses): melts between 118°C (245°F) and 220°C (428°F), depending on composition.

The 63/37 and 60/40 solders are most often used in copper foil work because of their smaller melting range. This allows the solder to set more quickly than the solders with higher lead content. They tend to give smoother beads also.

50/50 and 40/60 solders are more often used in leaded panel work. Their wider range of melting temperatures allows the solder to spread and become flat.

Other information on solders:

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2015/07/physical-characteristics-of-solder.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2018/02/lead-free-solder.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/soldering-ingredients-and-methods.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2015/07/lead-free-solder.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/03/solder-alloys-1.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/03/solder-alloys-2.html

Soldering Lead Came

Soldering lead came is different from soldering electronics or copper foil. For electronic soldering less heat is needed, cleanliness is all important, suitable flux is required, and the iron is held differently, among other things.

Soldering lead came The lead needs to be clean and bright to start with. If it's fairly new lead it should be solder-able without more than a scrubbing of the joints with a brass wire brush. However, if the lead is dull and oxidized, you should scrape the lead in the area to be soldered with a nail, the blade of a lead knife or other sharp edged tool until the bright metal is revealed.

an example of paste flux

Example of a tallow stick.  It has the appearance of a candle, but without the wick.

Example of the application of tallow to a joint

Then the flux can be applied.  Paste flux or tallow works best as neither flows in its cold state.  This means that you can flux the whole panel at one time without the liquid flowing away or drying.  Once the whole panel is fluxed, you do not need to stop during the soldering process.

Example of a gas powered soldering iron. The flat face of the soldering bolt is held in full contact with the joint.

An electric soldering iron is held over-handed (as you would a bread knife) in order to get the handle low enough to have the tip flat on the lead. This will be a 15 to 20 degree elevation from the horizontal. Allow the weight of the soldering iron to do the work for you. 

Let it rest on the joint after you apply the solder between the lead and the iron. In order to heat both pieces of lead you may have to rock the tip slightly to contact all leads being soldered. Take the solder away from the iron so it doesn't become attached to the joint. As soon as the solder spreads, lift the iron straight up. This process will take only a few seconds, much less than 5.

Example of smooth flat solder joints.

Avoid "painting" or dragging the iron across the joint. The object is to have a shiny, smooth, slightly rounded solder joint. Moving the iron and solder around does two things.  It makes for a weak joint as the solder does not have the chance to become stable and so forms a "pasty" joint.  Moving the iron around during the soldering of the joint often provides sharp points where the iron was moved quickly off the join. There should be no points sticking up from the solder joint. If a solder joint is not satisfactory you can re-flux and re-heat. Don't apply too much solder. It's easier to add more solder than to remove excess.

Soldering Irons and Rheostats

People often want to have variable temperatures for decorative soldering.

It is recommended to use a rheostat in circumstances where the soldering iron does not have an internal temperature control.

A rheostat is NOT a temperature controller.

Action of a Rheostat
A rheostat actually reduces the power supplied to the iron, thereby making it take longer to heat or re-heat after a period of soldering. Without a rheostat, if an iron is left idle, it will eventually reach its maximum temperature. This is usually too hot for soldering lead, but OK for joining other metals. With a rheostat, if an iron is left idle with the rheostat set to (say) '6', it will still reach its maximum temperature but very much slower than the one without a rheostat.

Action of a Temperature Controlled Iron
Temperature controlled soldering irons attempt to maintain a set temperature. This is controlled by the combination of the microchip in the iron and the tip. So to adjust your temperatures all you need is a few different tips. For example, a number 7 tip lets your iron heat to 700F degrees. For decorative soldering your need tips of lower temperatures, usually a number 6 or 600F degree is enough of a reduction for most decorative stuff. A number 8 tip (800F) will let you work at a higher temperature if you work quickly.

Differences in Soldering Speed
Using an iron without a rheostat, provided you work relatively quickly, you will probably be able to solder all the joints in a small or medium panel without stopping to let the iron 'catch up'. In this case the temperature is controlled by the heating power of the iron balanced by the cooling effect of making the soldered joints.Using an iron with a rheostat, you will need to slow down a little if you are to do that same panel without stopping to let the iron re-heat. In this case the temperature of the iron is controlled by the (reduced) heating power of the iron balanced by the same cooling effect of making the soldered joints.This difference is caused by the fact that a temperature-controlled iron, if it is left idle, it will quickly reach its maximum operating temperature - just as quickly as an un-controlled iron of the same power. When you start soldering, the cooling effect will trigger the temperature controller to provide full power until the operating temperature is reached again.

Advantages of a Temperature Controlled Iron
You can buy an iron (not temperature controlled) and a rheostat but buying tips for the temperature controlled iron is cheaper. The big advantage of the temperature-controlled iron is that you know it will never get too hot for the work you are doing, and that it truly provides that 100 watts (or whatever) power to keep it hot even when you are soldering at top speed.

Choosing a Soldering Iron

The iron used to solder must be of a high enough wattage to readily melt the solder and be able to reheat fast enough to maintain the necessary melting temperature. The tip can't be so small it can't maintain the heat nor so big it covers more area than wanted.

For example a 75 or 80 watt iron is sufficient to begin soldering with, but it will continue to get hotter, as it has no temperature control. An iron of this type should be used with a rheostat in order to prevent overheating while it is idling.

Most temperature controlled irons seem to be produced in 100 watts or higher. These internally temperature controlled irons maintain a constant temperature. They are normally supplied with a 700F° bit (number 7) and is sufficient to melt the solder without long recovery times. You can obtain bits of different temperature ratings, commonly 800F° and 600F°. You can also several sizes of tips for different detail of work.

  For volume work you can obtain temperature controlled irons of 200 watts and more.

It is also possible to obtain a Japanese made soldering iron with the rheostat built into the handle.

Soldering irons

General
Historically soldering tips were copper, placed in braziers. One tip at a time was used; when the heat had transferred from the tip to the solder (and depleted the heat reserve) it was placed back in the brazier of charcoal and the next tip was used.

Much later gas irons were in common use. These used a gas jet to heat the soldering bolt/tip. They are very fast, but require significant amounts of experience to properly regulate the temperature.

Currently, electric soldering irons are used; they consist of coil or ceramic heating elements, which retain heat differently, and warm up the mass differently, with internal or external rheostats, and different power ratings - which change how long a bead can be run.

Selection
The soldering iron used must be of a high enough wattage to readily melt the solder and be able to reheat fast enough to maintain the necessary melting temperature. The tip can't be so small it can't maintain the heat and not so big it covers much more area than wanted.

For soldering leaded panels a 100w iron with a 3/8" temperature controlled tip that maintains a constant 370°C (700° F) is suitable.

For copper foil a higher temperature controlled tip is used. This normally runs at 425°C (800°F). Sometimes a tip of ¼” is used where more delicate beads are being run. But there is little difference in the resulting bead - only that the smaller bit takes slightly longer to heat up.

If a lot of soldering is required that has sustained heat requirements, you might consider a 200W iron. These can deliver heat more quickly and evenly than those with lesser wattage.

Care of Soldering Tips

Many soldering stations come with a sponge which, when wet, is used to wipe the iron's tip clean. A small amount of fresh solder is usually then applied to the clean tip in a process called tinning.

The copper that forms the heat-conducting bulk of the soldering iron's tip will dissolve into molten solder, slowly eroding the tip. As a result of this, most soldering iron tips are plated to resist wearing down under use. To avoid damaging the plating, abrasives such as sand paper or steel wire brushes should not be used to clean them. Tips without this plating or where the plating has been broken-through may need to be periodically sanded or filed to keep them smooth.

a common block form of sal ammoniac

To avoid using abrasives, cleaning with sal ammoniac is recommended. This comes in a block. You rub the soldering iron bit on the surface. As the surface becomes hot, it begins the cleaning process, noted by the smoke rising from the block. When the block under the bit becomes clear, the bit will be clean and can be tinned as above. If this is done at the end of each session of soldering, the bit will last and will be ready for soldering immediately when you next need to use it.

Other posts on maintenance are:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2008/08/care-of-your-soldering-iron-tip.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html

Tucking Lead Came

It is most usual in many countries to butt lead cames against one another. In continental Europe the tucking of cames is more common. In this process, which has the advantages of speed and accuracy, the came is first fitted to the glass and then cut at the edge of the glass.

The first step is to cut the came to the appropriate angle to meet the lead to which it is to be joined. However before presenting the cut came to the joint, one end is lightly tapped with a small hammer to slightly curve the end of the came. This allows it to slip inside the leaves of the came to which it will be soldered.










The came is then shaped to the glass as normal. However, rather than removing the came for the next cut, the came is cut to the length of the glass, often using the glass as a guide. This end is then supported on the lead knife and tapped with the hammer to curve the end, ready for tucking into the next piece of came. Care is required so that you don’t crush the came and break the glass, nor miss the came and hit the glass or your fingers. With practice, there are few accidents.

Diagramatically, the tucked lead looks like this:

Tucking lead provides very accurate joints with no gaps for solder to fall through. Some argue it provides a stronger panel as the hearts of the jointed cames almost meet. The main immediate gain is quicker soldering.

Care of Your Soldering Iron Tip

Wipe your hot iron tip on a wet sponge on a regular basis while soldering.  It must be done on a natural sponge, not a plastic based one. This should be a quick pass, rather than a lingering one to avoid cooling the tip of the soldering bolt.  This keeps the tip clean of carbon and other contaminants that can reduce the effective heat from the tip.  

There are also brass wool tip cleaners.  These are a bit more agressive than the sponge, but do not cool the tip. 

If you have any dark gunk build up that won't come off on the sponge, rub the hot iron tip against a block of sal ammoniac until the block clears. If the dirt is difficult to remove with the sal ammoniac, use a brass wire brush to scrape the dirt off and then go back to the sal ammoniac block. When it is clean, add a touch of solder to re-tin the tip, and then wipe against your wet sponge.
  

Remember, all this is done while the iron is hot, so be careful.

Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html

The Purpose of Flux

The primary purpose of flux is to prevent oxidation of the base and filler materials in the short time between cleaning and soldering. Tin-lead solder, for example, attaches very well to copper, but poorly to the various oxides of copper that form quickly at soldering temperatures. This applies to lead and brass too.

Flux is a substance that is nearly inert at room temperature, but it becomes strongly reducing at elevated temperatures, preventing the formation of metal oxides. Secondarily, flux acts as a wetting agent in soldering processes for lead, copper and brass.

Without flux the solder does not firmly attach to the lead or copper foil and often forms sharp peaks.


See also
Flux, an introduction
Fluxes, a description
The Purpose of flux
The action of fluxes

Soldering fluxes

The Action of Fluxes

All common untreated metals and metal alloys (including solders) are subject to an environmental attack in which their bare surfaces become covered with a non-metallic film, commonly referred to as tarnish. This tarnish layer consists of oxides, sulfides, carbonates, or other corrosion products and is an effective insulating barrier that will prevent any direct contact with the clean metal surface which lies beneath. When metal parts are joined together by soldering, a metallic continuity is established as a result of the interface between the solder and the surfaces of the two metals. As long as the tarnish layer remains, the solder and metal interface cannot take place, because without being able to make direct contact it is impossible to effectively wet the metals surface with solder.

The surface tarnishes that form on metal are generally not soluble in (and cannot be removed by) most conventional cleaning solvents. They must, therefore be acted upon chemically [or mechanically] in order to be removed. The required chemical reaction is most often accomplished by the use of soldering fluxes. These soldering fluxes will displace the atmospheric gas layer on the metal’s surface and upon heating will chemically react to remove the tarnish layer from the fluxed metals and maintain the clean metal surface throughout the soldering process.

Chemical reactions
The chemical reaction that is required will usually be one of two basic types. It can be a reaction where the tarnish and flux combine forming a third compound that is soluble in either the flux or its carrier.

An example of this type of reaction takes place between water-white rosin and copper oxides. Water-white rosin, when used as a flux is usually in an isopropyl alcohol carrier and consists mainly of abietic acid and other isomeric diterpene acids that are soluble in several organic solvents. When applied to an oxidized copper surface and heated, the copper oxides will combine with the abietic acid forming a copper abiet (which mixes easily with the un-reacted rosin) leaving a clean metallic surface for solder wetting. The hot molten solder displaces the rosin flux and the copper abiet, which can then be removed by conventional cleaning methods.

Another type of reaction is one that causes the tarnish film, or oxidized layer to return to its original metallic state restoring the metals clean surface.

An example of this type of reaction takes place when soldering under a blanket of heated hydrogen. At elevated temperatures (the temperature that is required for the intended reaction to take place is unique to each type of base metal) the hydrogen removes the oxides from the surface, forming water and restoring the metallic surface, which the solder will then wet. There are several other variations and combinations that are based on these two types of reactions.

Acids commonly in fluxes

Flux as a temporary protective coating
Once the desired chemical reaction has taken place (lifting or dissolving the tarnish layer) the fluxing agent must provide a protective coating on the cleaned metal surface until it is displaced by the molten solder. This is due to the elevated temperatures required for soldering causing the increased likelihood that the metal’s surface may rapidly re-oxidize if not properly coated. Any compound that can be used to create one of the required types of chemical reactions, under the operating conditions necessary for soldering, might be considered for use as a fluxing material. However, most organic and inorganic compounds will not hold up under the high temperature conditions that are required for proper soldering. That is why one of the more important considerations is a compound's thermal stability, or its ability to withstand the high temperatures that are required for soldering without burning, breaking down, or evaporating.

When evaluating all of the requirements necessary for a compound to be considered as a fluxing agent, it is important to consider the various soldering methods, techniques and processes available and the wide range of materials and temperatures they may require. A certain flux may perform well on a specific surface using one method of soldering and yet not be at all suitable for that same surface using a different soldering method. When in doubt it never hurts to check with the flux, or solder manufacturer for recommendations.

Courtesy of American Beauty Tools


See also:
Flux, an introduction
Fluxes, a description
The Purpose of flux
The action of fluxes
Soldering fluxes

Flux

Flux is a material that provides a “wetting” action between the metal (lead or copper in our case) and the solder.


There are various types of flux. Some are of more use in some circumstances than others. Among them are:

Tallow
This normally comes in a candle-like stick. It is made from rendered animal fat. Although this may put some vegetarians off, it is one of the best fluxes for leaded glass work and will work for copper foil, but is not generally preferred.  It is relatively natural, does not contain chemicals, and does not require re-application if left for a while. Over generous application does not produce any problems during the soldering. It just leaves more solidified tallow to clean after soldering. The cleaning normally requires a mild abrasive such as a brass or fibreglass brush to get the cooled tallow off the piece.

 




Oleic acid and other safety fluxes
Many of the safety fluxes are made of oleic acid (sometimes called stearin oil). These fluxes do not produce chemical fumes in the soldering process. They are easy to clean up with detergents and warm water. Safety fluxes require re-application if left to dry, as they are only effective while wet. Putting too much on leads to boiling off the liquid, making holes in the solder joint or line.

An example only.  There are many water soluble paste fluxes available

Chemical Paste fluxes
These fluxes come in a variety of compositions. You need to be careful about choosing, as some are very difficult to clean off the glass or solder line or joint. They do produce chemical fumes, so a fume mask is advisable while using this kind of flux. The paste does not require re-application if left, so the whole piece can be fluxed at once.

Acid fluxes
Acid fluxes such as the kind that is in the core of plumbers solder are intended to clean the joint at the same time as acting as the wetting agent. These are not recommended for stained glass work as they can affect the glass surfaces, especially irridised glass. They do produce fumes that require the user to have on a fume mask while soldering. The ease of cleaning relates to the particular composition of the flux, so testing samples is required before application.

See also:
Flux, an introduction
Fluxes, a description
The Purpose of flux
The action of fluxes
Soldering fluxes