Elevation of Moulds in the Kiln

The placing of the mould may have a significant effect on the outcome of a slump. The ideal placing is in the centre of the kiln to ensure it has the most even temperature. This avoids any uneven temperature that may exist within the kiln.

Hot and Cool Spots

Sometimes this is not a practical use of kiln time or space, but if the heat distribution in the kiln is uneven, the placing may be critical. If the cool areas are known, avoid them in the placing of the larger moulds. Simpler moulds, or those which do not require as much heat can go in the cooler areas of the kiln. A good and simple method to test for the heat distribution within your kiln is given in Bullseye’s Tech Note no.1.

Effect of Elevation of Mould

Elevation of the mould by a centimetre or two is often recommended to help evenly distribute the heat under the bottom of the mould as well as the top. This is viewed as a way of avoiding breakage or uneven slumps. There are differences between moulds on the shelf and those elevated. Recordings show differences up to 49°C/88°F. The differences on the cool down ramps are minimal and do not interfere with annealing. These differences appear to have no effect on breakages in the mould.

ΔT Shelf vs. Elevated Moulds (Celsius)

	Max. ΔT	Average ΔT
Rate / hour	on Rise	Start of slump	End of 30 min slump	On cool
150	49	41	30	8
120	39	31	24	5

 

These differences should be put in context. The air temperature is approximately three times any difference between the two arrangements of moulds. Much more important in breakage is the ramp rate, as it creates significant differences in expansion between the top and the bottom of the suspended glass. This much larger difference has the potential for greater effects than whether the moderately sized mould is elevated or not. This table demonstrates the air and mould temperature differences.

ΔT Difference Between Air and Elevated Mould (Celsius)

Ramp Rate	Air Minus Mould Temperature (ave)
240	138
150	112
120	97

 

Large, Heavy, Wet Moulds

The elevation of large, heavy, or wet moulds is very important. It is needed to protect the supporting shelf from breaking. The amount of shading of heat from the shelf that these kinds of moulds can do is large. Wet moulds, especially, can cause large temperature differences in the shelf. Always elevate moulds that are large relative to the kiln, contain thick glass, are heavy, or are damp to avoid difficulties with the shelf.

 

More information is available in the ebook: Further information is available in the ebook: Low Temperature Kiln Forming.

Citric Acid Cleanser

Christopher Jeffree has kindly outlined the reasons for the effectiveness of citric acid as a cleaner for removing refractory mould residue and acting on kiln wash stuck to glass.  This is his work (with a few personal notes removed).

"Citric acid works well for removing the plaster scale that builds up in vessels used to mix plaster, and it helps to remove traces of investment plaster and kiln wash from glass.  Its metal-chelating properties probably help with dissolution of calcium deposits, but I am less clear why it is so good at removing kiln wash.  The constituents of kiln wash are kaolin and alumina hydrate, neither of which I would expect to be soluble in dilute acids.  Equally, the refractory materials in investment formulae I would expect to be insoluble.  However, kaolin forms layered structures in which flakes, molecular layers, of alumina hydrate and silica interact through hydrogen bonding. It is possible (I am guessing here) that citric acid can disrupt those hydrogen bonds, thereby disaggregating the clay.  All we can say is that empirically, it works.

"I prefer to use citric acid partly because it has a defined composition, but also because it is safe and pleasant to handle – no odour, and comes in the form of easily-dissolved dry crystals like granulated sugar.  Vinegar stinks, and glacial acetic acid is  an aggressive flammable, corrosive liquid with a chokingly acrid smell.

"Calcium sulfate has low solubility, but is not completely insoluble in water - gypsum (calcium sulfate dihydrate) has a solubility of about 2.5g per litre (0.25%)  from 30-100 C. Its solubility is retrograde, meaning that it decreases, rather than increasing, with temperature.  Natural gypsum is an evaporite, a type of rock that often forms by evaporation of lake water in a geological basin with little or no outflow. It can also be produced hydrothermally in hot springs, when water containing sulfuric acid passes through limestone.  

"Calcium citrate is not very soluble either, only in the order of about 0.85g per litre, but the important thing from our point of view is not to get the material into solution but to separate its crystals and make it detach from the glass.

"In other contexts, warm citric acid is used by jewellers and silversmiths as a pickle for dissolving copper oxide (firestain) from silver and gold alloys  after heating / soldering.  It is a safer alternative to the traditional jeweller's pickle of 10% H₂SO₄.

"Citric acid also dissolves rust from iron, without much etching the iron itself, so is good for cleaning rust off tools etc.

"These pictures show a plaster mixing bowl with (presumably) CaSO₄-rich deposit on the surface, cleaned by soaking with 5% citric acid for 4 hours,

and flash from the pate de verre castings with tightly adhering kiln wash, cleaned using 5% citric acid soaked for 4 hours, and vinegar (white wine) soaked for 24 hours.

"I'm not sure about reaction products - I was speculating a lot there, running through hypotheses that I can't support. We don't really have data on the composition of the layers that are stuck to the glass, or a clear idea of why they sometimes stick and sometimes don't (e.g. the differences between transparent and opal glasses in this respect). Maybe this would be a topic to discuss with technical people at Bullseye."

Hope this helps
Best wishes

Chris Jeffree

Subsequent to this work Christopher has done more work and found that Tri-sodium citrate is an even better chemical for cleaning glass of kiln wash and mould material.

Simple Investment Mould Materials

There are a lot of differing recipe options for making plaster moulds. A simple general purpose investment mould making material and method follows:

Equal parts of powdered silica (sometimes called silica flour or flint), plaster of Paris and water by weight.  For example:

1 kilo silica
1 kilo Plaster Paris
1 kilo water

(Do not measure by volume)

Mix silica and plaster of Paris dry in separate bucket by hand.  If you can use a closed container that is best.  Otherwise use breathing protection and do the mixing outside.  Silica is very bad for your health.

Measure the water into a separate bucket with enough volume for three times the amount of water. Slowly sprinkle the entire contents of the dry mix into the bucket of water.  Do not dump it in!

Let the mixture sit for 2 minutes (slaking).  Then mix by hand slowly to prevent bubbles. Using your hands allows you to feel any lumps that are present and break them down gently. Depending on temperature and amount of water, you have 15-20 minutes before the mix begins to become solid.

When mixed thoroughly, pour carefully and slowly into a corner of the mould box or container to reduce the occurrence of bubbles within the investment material or against the master.

When the pour is finished, tap the mould container to encourage any bubbles to the surface.

You can take the investment and master from the container once it is cold to the touch. Remove the master from the investment material carefully to avoid damaging the surface of the investment.

For pate de verre, you can use the mould almost immediately.  For casting, it is important to have a dry mould.

Let the whole air dry. Depending on the temp, humidity and density this can last from several days to several weeks. A way to tell how dry the investment is, is by weighing the mould when it has just hardened. When it has lost on third of its weight (the water component), it is ready for kiln drying. This removes the chemically bound water from the investment material. 

This is only an outline of what to do.  Investment moulds are extremely complicated in their chemistry, physics, and use.