Recovering from Devitrification

An explanation of what devitrification is, can be found in the link.

Mild devitrification is generally a smeary appearance on the surface.  Most often this can be corrected by either removing the surface, adding a flux or putting another surface over the piece.

mild devitrification
photo credit: Bullseye Glass Co.

Removing the devitrified surface

Sandblasting and grinding are two common methods of removing the surface. If you have access to a sandblaster, this is the easiest method of removing the surface.  You can remove the surface with manual methods too.  You can use wet and dry sandpapers, starting with coarse ones and proceed through grades to at least 400grit (0.037mm).  The flexibility of the sandpapers is that they can conform to uneven surfaces that tack fusing provides, to remove devitrification in depressions as well as the high bits. Diamond hand pads and sheets do the job more quickly, but are more expensive.

Acid etching is another surface removal method. There are various etching creams on the market which will remove the surface. You need to apply and leave for a long time to allow the acid to work on the glass surface.  It is best to keep the acid paste damp to enable the acid to work over a long period.  A piece of cling film will work well.

Making a new surface

You can provide a new surface by using devitrification sprays.  There are both commercial products and do it yourself ones that work.  The do it yourself product is a borax solution.  The method for making the solution is given here.

Borax powder

You also can give the devitrified surface a new one by covering it with clear powders.  Powders sifted evenly over the surface until there is a thin covering over all the piece will give a new surface concealing or covering the devitrification.  Fine frit does not work so well, as more needs to be sifted over the surface.  This will not be applicable to tack fused pieces, as the whole piece needs to be taken to a contour or full fuse to make sure the powder or frit is completely smooth.  This will make the tack fused areas flat.

Left to right - devitrified surface, powder covering, fired piece
Photo credit: Bullseye Glass Co.

When dealing with devitrification, the whole of the surface should be treated, not just isolated areas.  Treating isolated areas will most probably leave a difference in appearance between the treated and untreated areas.  It is not worth the risk of having to fire yet again.

Dealing with devitrification usually involves removing the devitrified surface or making a new one.

Firing Practices that Affect Kiln Elements

The way that you fire glass and other materials in your kiln affect the longevity of the kiln elements.  Some things you can do and avoid are given here.

Venting

Even if you have the best aluminium oxide coating, the fumes that emit from glazes, paints, organics, inclusions and devitrification solutions can still attack the element through cracks in the coating. Downdraft vents are your best defence against potentially harmful fumes. Downdraft vents pull the fumes from the kiln chamber before they have a chance to damage the elements.

If you do not have a downdraft vent your next best option is to prop the lid a couple of inches until the kiln reaches 540°C to allow the fumes out of the chamber. You should also consider leaving at least one peephole out during the entire firing for the fumes that escape above 540°C.

This presents a dilemma, as the recommendation is to keep the kiln closed from 540°C upwards to protect the glass from cold air drafts.   Those who rarely fire above 800°C do not have the same problem as those who regularly fire at 850°C and above for casting, combing, and melts.  The higher the temperature, the greater the effect of fumes on the elements.  At fusing and below temperatures the effect on the elements is not as great.  Thus, low temperature firings can follow the standard practice of closing the kiln above 540°C.  Those going higher, should consider venting the kiln all the way to the top temperature to reduce the wear on the elements.

Maintain an Oxidising Atmosphere

Elements need an oxidising atmosphere to provide a long dependable service.  Subjecting elements to reducing atmospheres will age the elements quickly.  This is be done by introducing organics or oils into the kiln without venting.  Among the things that will attack the aluminium oxide coating of the elements are

• ·        Carbon - this includes materials made from carbon and plant-based inclusions.   
• ·        wax burnout – it is best to steam wax out of moulds to eliminate most of the wax before any burnout, as the fumes are largely carbon.
• ·        halogens (such as chlorine or fluorine) 
• ·        molten metals (such as zinc, aluminium).  This is a more important reason for avoiding the use of zinc and aluminium in kilnforming than the possibility of health problems.
• ·        lead bearing paints and glazes – lead is a common component of paints, enamels and glazes.
• ·        alkaline metals – the main one we come across in kilnforming is magnesium which produces an amethyst colour of varying intensities.  This has a melting point of 650°C and boils at 1090°C, so some fumes can develop during firings and affect the elements.
• ·        borax compounds – used in enamel glazes and some devitrification sprays. 

If you use these materials in the kiln, you need to ensure that the kiln is well vented while these are in the kiln.

When you do have to use these elements - even when you vent - it is good practice to follow this firing by one without materials corrosive to the coating.  This allows the coating to re-form around the element surfaces after a corrosive firing.

Trying to do reduction firings in your kiln will greatly limit their useful life and is definitely not recommended.

Avoid Contaminants

Contaminants such as silica which is contained in kiln wash and some glazes attack the aluminium oxide coating of the wire.

Powders, paints and kiln wash accidentally touching the elements cause rapid corrosion of the elements if not cleaned off before firing.

Placing

Firing close to the elements allows any fumes from materials being used to affect the elements more than allowing some space between the glass and the elements.  This provides another reason to keep the glass away from the edges of the kiln in addition to the possible uneven heating of the glass.

High Temperature Firings

High temperatures with very long soak times will accelerate an increase in element resistance through the differential expansion of the inner wire and the coating. The higher the temperature, the longer the soak, the sooner the element will decrease in life. Usually short soaks work much better for the longevity of the element.  This is not such a big factor for glass kilns as it is for ceramic kilns.

The next part in this series deals with the maintenance of the elements.


Earlier relevant posts
Element Description

Aging

Home Made Devitrification sprays

You can buy a number of devitrification sprays. Some of them are lead bearing and will not be suitable for food and drink containers. Many times people apply them before firing the first time to prevent devitrification. More often these sprays are applied after a piece has become devitrified. However it is applied, these sprays are not cheap.

borax in powder form

It is possible to make your own devitrification solution. It is made from borax which you can buy from your local chemicals supplier, or sometimes as a washing powder – but make sure it has no additives! 

An example of a borax washing powder

 To make a solution, boil a few cups of water. Take the water off the boil and put in 4 – 5 tablespoons of borax. Stir and allow to stand until cool. Pour off the clear liquid and you have a saturated solution of borax. The sediment in the bottom can be added to more hot water to make more of the borax solution.  You will have to break up the remaining crystals of borax to enable suspension in the hot water.

Add a couple of drops of washing up liquid to the solution. This is enough to break the solution's surface tension. It helps to give an even distribution of the solution across the clean glass by reducing the surface tension and therefore, beading of the liquid that otherwise occurs.

You can spray this solution onto the glass, just as the commercial sprays.  Or you can brush it on as you do kiln wash on a shelf.  It requires an even application to ensure there are no streaks left on the finished glass. 

This works because borax is one of the fluxes used in glass making to reduce the melting temperature of glass batch and so serves to soften the surface of the glass enough to overcome mild devitrification.

Permanance 

Description of devitrification
Temperature range

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2016/02/borax-characteristics.html

https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/06/borax-solutions.html

Revised June 2018

Borax solutions

A borax solution can act as a devitrification spray. That is its usual application in kiln forming.  But it can be used in other ways too.

Borax is a flux helping to reduce the firing temperature of glass. So, it can be used as a medium for powdered mica which can be painted or sprayed onto the glass. It also helps reduce the oxidisation of included metals.

Obtain borax that has no additives. Put a couple of teaspoons into water and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and cool. Decant the almost clear liquid off the sediment and you have a saturated solution of borax ready to use. 

If you are really parsimonious, you can add water to the crystals remaining in the pot and heat to get another saturated solution. You could do this until there was no residue, but that would get tedious.

Add a couple of drops of washing up liquid to the solution. This is enough to break the solution's surface tension. It helps to give an even distribution of the solution across the clean glass by reducing the beading of the liquid that otherwise occurs.

You can paint the solution onto the material - glass or metal - with a soft brush such as a hake brush, or you can spray it on with a pump spray container.  Be careful to clean the spray container immediately, as borax crystals form quickly.

Permanance 

Description of devitrification
Temperature range

Characteristics

Mica - Kiln Forming Myths 23

Mica will not stick to glass unless it's capped with clear.

Almost by definition, any material that needs to be encased, does not stick to glass.

However, mica does stick to glass.  But it is only the surface that is in contact with the glass that sticks.  Mica shears into very fine sheets and particles (almost microscopic), meaning that there many layers of mica even with a thin layer.  So only a minor portion of the mica you sprinkle, sift or paint onto the glass can stick. 

It is possible to add a flux such as borax to the mica solution to soften the surface of the glass, allowing more mica to sink into and stick to the glass.

Of course you can encase much more mica than will stick to the surface.  However, you have to be very careful about avoiding bubbles.  There is so much air (relative to the volume of the mica) that bubbles in encased mica is a constant problem.  Very good bubble squeezes and supporting the edges on shards of glass to keep the glass open while beginning to slump are required.

All myths have an element of truth in them otherwise they would not persist.

They also persist because people listen to the “rules” rather than thinking about the principles and applying them.  It is when you understand the principles that you can successfully break the “rules”.

Borax Characteristics

Borax is a glass making flux used to reduce the melting temperature of glass. 

It is almost colourless - grey, white, or yellowish; seldom bluish or greenish; and colourless in transmitted light.

The chemical composition of Borax is:  Na₂(B₄O₅)(OH)₄ · 8H₂O

It has a hardness rating of 2 – 2.5, about half that of glass at approximately 5.5.

The melting point is 878°C. At this temperature borax dissolves numerous metal oxides. In spite of this high melting temperature, it acts as a flux reducing the softening point at the surface of the glass at kiln forming temperatures.

The specific gravity of borax is approximately 1.7, considerably ligther than glass at ca.2.5.

Borax is sparingly soluble in cold water, although readily soluble in boiling water. It is insoluble in ethanol.

Description of devitrification
Temperature range

Devitrification spray

Float Glass in the Kiln

An important characteristic of float glass is that a very small amount of the tin is embedded into the glass on the side it touched. The tin side is easier to make into a mirror and is softer and easier to scratch than the air side. The characteristic of float glass having a molecular level of tin left on the “tin side” but not the “air side” is important to distinguish. There are short wave UV light sources to help determine this. The tin side gives a whiter glow than the air side. If any forming of the glass is planed after fusing, the tin side needs to be on the side being stretched, as when in compression the tin side will show a “tin bloom” similar to devitrification.

If the tin side is down on both sheets, and it is slumped into a mould there will be no tin bloom because the tin layer is stretched. If the tin side is up on both sheets and it is slumped into a mould there will be tin bloom because the tin layer is compressed. If you have placed the tin sides together, or on both the top and bottom, one of the tin surfaces will be in compression and so will show tin bloom. This is often mistaken for devitrification, and no amount of any devitrification solution will help.

A borax solution can help with the devitrification on float glass in some circumstances. It is not a perfect solution. This is because tin bloom and devitrification are often not distinguished correctly. But a high level of cleanliness and polishing the glass until squeaky clean is the best start.

The heat characteristics of Float glass depend in large part on which company manufactures the glass being used, so the temperature characteristics are given in ranges.

The softening point is around 760C

The annealing point is around 560—540C

The strain point is around 515-495C. The strain point being the temperature below which no further annealing occurs, although the glass can still be thermally shocked below this range.

Due to the robustness of float glass, it can be fired with a quicker initial temperature rise than glasses formulated for kiln forming. The down side is that it devitrifies very easily and very badly. Rarely can you perform more than two firings before the devitrification begins to become troublesome.

All window glass now seems to be referred to as float glass. However, the float glass process was invented in the 1950’s. Prior to that time, window glass was drawn. Float glass can use more iron in its composition, because it does not have to be drawn up out of a molten vat of glass as the drawn glass did and still does. Float glass is formulated to be stiffer at forming temperatures, whereas the drawn glass has to be flexible due to the mechanical stresses it is put under during the drawing. Except for low iron glass, the float glass has a distinct blue green colour when viewed through the edge. Drawn glass has a variation in thickness and is much paler when viewed through the edge. These visual differences can help distinguish the two kinds of glass, but are not foolproof.

More information on the general characteristics of float glass can be found here.