Unless
you are using some manufactured system or a frame, the most frequent
way to provide hanging points is to create a loop from copper wire.
Hangers
should originate in a solder bead that goes some way into the piece.
The loop's tail should lie a significant distance into the solder
line to ensure it does not pull the piece apart. If this is to remain
invisible, some planning will be required to allow the small extra
space between the foiled glass.
The
loops for hanging a piece of any size should not be soldered to the
perimeter foil without reference to the solder bead lines, as the
adhesive and foil are insufficient to hold the weight of the piece
without tearing.
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| Here the hanging loops could have been moved just a little to engage with the solder joints at the left ear and at the tail to make stronger hanging points |
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| Here the hanging points are at the solder joints giving strong hanging points |
Reinforcement
of free hanging or projecting elements can be done by placing wire
around the piece with a significant excess going along the perimeter
in both directions. The supporting wire can go into the solder line,
if it is a continuation of an edge of the free hanging piece.
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| In this case a twisted copper wire around the perimeter gives strong hanging points |
The
strongest method is to wrap the wire around the whole perimeter of
the piece. Choose easily bent copper wire. This will be pretty
fine, but when soldered, will be strong enough support the whole
piece.
The
hanger can be made by leaving a loop of wire free. This way you can
hang from any convenient place on the perimeter. This loop can be
made by a single 180 degree twist in the wire, or by bending a loop
into the perimeter wire. In all cases you will need to tin the wire
to blend it with the rest of the piece.
This
perimeter wire can be simply butted at the start/finish of the wire.
It could be overlapped, but this is unnecessary on any piece where
this method is adequate for support. The start can be at the top or
bottom, although I prefer the top, so the wire is continuous from
loop to loop. The reason for continuing beyond the loops is to
provide support to all the edges of the sun catcher.
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| This single point hanger is at the strong point of the piece |
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| The left hanger is strong, but the right is weaker than if it had been attached to the right of the body |
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| This piece needs wire around the piece, especially to stabilise the tail and ears |
