A range of problems appear in slumping. These include bubbles, splits, puddling and more. Several causes are possible. This blog looks at the problems, possible causes and remedies.
Bubbles
Blocked
Vent Holes
Absence of, or blocked
holes at the bottom of the mould to allow air out into the kiln on all but
shallow or cylindrical moulds can be a cause of bubbles. Prop the mould up on stilts if
the hole does not go directly from under the glass and out of the side of the mould.
Alternatively, drill a hole in the side to allow the air to escape from under
the mould.
Wet
moulds
In kiln forming,
the moisture resulting from recently applied kiln wash is considered by some to
be a cause of bubbles. The water in the mould will be evaporated by around
250°C/482°F in any sensible slumping schedule. At this temperature, the glass will
not have begun to move, so the moisture can move out of the mould through any
vent holes at the bottom of the mould, or past the glass as it rests on the
edge of the mould.
The circumstance
when a damp slumping mould could cause difficulties is when using an extremely
fast rise of temperature. This is detrimental to the mould also, as the rapid
formation of steam is more likely to break the mould rather than the glass. It
is also unlikely to result in a good slump conforming to the mould without
significant marking.
In casting with wet
plaster/silica moulds water vapour can move toward the glass. Casting practice
has alleviated some of the problem, by having an extended steam out before
200°C/395°F, or pouring the glass into the hot dry mould from a reservoir.
In pate de verre,
the mould is most often packed while wet. The small particles normally allow
any steaming of moisture to pass through, and so be dry at forming temperatures
without blowing any bubbles.
Top Temperature
Bubbles at the
bottom of the glass are much more likely to be the result of too high a process
temperature if the previous two conditions are met. This high temperature allows
the glass to slide down the mould. The glass is not plastic enough to
thicken and form a puddle at the bottom at most slumping temperatures. Instead,
it begins to be pushed up from the lowest point due to the weight of the glass
sliding down the sides.
Avoiding uprisings on the bottom of bowls.
Vent Holes
Make sure the holes are clear before placing the glass.
Wet Moulds
Ensure that the moulds are no more than damp before placing
in the kiln.
Top Temperature
Firing for too long
or at too high a temperature will cause the glass to continue sliding down.
Having nowhere else to go, the bottom begins rising. This is the result of
the weight of glass pressing down onto the bottom, especially on steep-sided
moulds. This is a consistent experience across several kilns and with multiple
users.
Low Slumping Temperatures.
Glass at low
temperatures is affected largely by its weight and viscosity.
Viscosity Effects
Thick glass will
fall more slowly than thin, when using the same schedule. Thick glass takes
longer to equalise the upper and lower surface temperatures. Since the lower
surface is stiffer (has a higher viscosity) it will move less using the same
heat up rate. This means slower rates should be used, or a significant soak just
above the strain point will be required. This
softening of the glass evenly throughout the rise to the top temperature is
critical in obtaining even slumps.
Splits in slumps
Without the slow progress to top temperature there can be problems. Sometimes
the upper surface of the slump appears fine. It is the bottom that exhibits a
split or tear that does not go all the way to the upper surface of the glass.
It indicates the rate of advance was too - but only just - too fast to achieve
the desired result.
The ramp rate has
been quick enough to get the top heated and become plastic. But the lower
surface is still cold enough that it is brittle. The weight of the upper
softened glass begins to push down before the bottom has become hot enough to
be fully plastic. The force of the weight on the bottom can be enough to
cause the glass to separate, rather than move as the surface does. This
split on the bottom but not the top indicates a slower rate for that thickness
is required. This shows the interaction between viscosity and weight.
Sometimes the split
is evident from the top. The cause of this kind of split is the same as a split
on the bottom. But the ramp rate has been much faster in relation to the
thickness or profile of the piece.
Weight
It is possible to have glass slightly overhang slumping
moulds if you use low temperatures. The glass has the appearance of behaving
differently at these low temperatures than at fusing temperatures.
At low temperatures
it cannot form exactly to the mould. It falls first in the middle. Because the
glass is not very plastic, the edges rise up from the mould at first, because
the weight there is not great enough to allow the unsupported glass to bend. The
edges stay in line with the beginning of the bend in the middle.
At the beginning of
the slump the glass is not soft enough to stretch. It maintains its dimensions
as it falls. For deep moulds, the glass moves progressively to move over the
lip of the mould and begins to fall into the mould.
As the slump
proceeds, the glass stretches very little and so the edges move further down
the mould. The glass continues to slide down at the edges until the centre
settles down onto the mould bottom.
During this slide
into place, the glass can become marked. This is usually most evident on back
of the upper portions of the glass where most sliding is happening.
With higher than
necessary temperatures, the glass can continue to slide down the mould. Since
the glass is still not fully plastic, the weight pushes the glass at the bottom
upwards. This gives the appearance of a bubble, but is an uprising due to the
pressure of the glass at the sides of the mould.
During the sliding
of the glass along the mould, it becomes more marked. The marks often look like
stretch marks. And in many senses, it is exactly that.
At higher
temperatures or longer holds, the glass softens more. At this point the uprising
collapses and the glass begins to thicken at the bottom. It also thins slightly
at the top.
Remedies
Ramp Rates
The ramp rates
should be slow.
- ·
This
allows the glass to heat evenly throughout. This is important to get even
slumps.
- Contrasting colours or a combination of opalescent and transparent glasses heat evenly with slow rates.
- ·
Slow
rates allow glass with tack profiles to heat evenly.
- ·
It
helps avoid splits in the bottom of slumped glass.
- ·
It
allows lower slump temperature to be used.
Low Temperatures
Using the lowest
practical slumping temperature gives the best results.
- ·
It
allows glass with small overhangs of the mould to be successfully slumped.
- ·
Low
temperature reduces the mould marks on the back of the glass.
- ·
Fewer
stretch marks are in evidence.
- ·
Low
slumping temperatures with long soaks reduce the uneven slump that is sometimes
in evidence with deeper moulds.
- ·
Low
temperatures allow different colours to heat more evenly.
- ·
Low
temperatures reduce the thinning or thickening of glass in a high temperature slump.
More information is available here.
This information
shows you need to keep the slumping temperature to the minimum required. To
find out what that temperature is, watch the slumping in stages in brief peeks (do not
stare!). Look at the piece for a second or two every five minutes before you
reach your desired temperature and at intervals throughout the hold.
If it has slumped completely
at the beginning of the hold, you are firing too high. Reduce your temperature
in subsequent firings and watch in the same way to find what the required temperature
and time is. There is absolutely no substitute in slumping but to
watch by peeking to learn what your mould and glass require.
What Temperature?
To determine the temperature needed for your piece, use slow
ramp rates – between 100°C to 150°C/ 180°F to 270°F. Set
your top temperature around 630°C/1170°F for a simple slump of fusing glass.
For bottle or window glass you will need a temperature closer to 720°C/1330°F.
It is necessary to
observe the progress of the slump as you do not know the best slumping
temperature. Start watching the glass at about 10-minute intervals from about 600°C/1110°F. There
is not much light in the kiln at this temperature, so an external light is
useful. You can also observe the reflections of the elements on the glass. When
the image of the elements begins to curve, you know the glass is beginning to
bend. You then know that is the lowest possible slumping temperature when using that ramp rate.
Hold for at least
30 mins at the temperature when the glass begins to visibly drop. This may or
may not be long enough. Continue checking at 5-10 minute intervals to know when
the slump is complete. If the glass is completely slumped before the soak time
is finished, advance to the next segment. If not fully slumped, you need to
extend the soak time. These operations mean you need to know how to alter your
schedule while firing. Consult your
controller manual to learn how to do these things. Stop the hold when complete
and advance to the anneal.
In some cases, you
may need to increase temperature you set by 5-10°C. You can do this by scheduling a
couple of segments with 10°C/18°F higher temperature each and 30 minute soaks each. If you do not need them, you can skip them.
If you do need the extra temperature, you have it scheduled already. You will know if you need the extra segments by whether the glass has begun to curve at the start of the first of the soaks. If it has not after 10 minutes, skip to the next segment. Once the new temperature has been reached, check for a curve in the glass. Again, if after 10 minutes there is no curve, skip to the next (higher temperature) segment.
A low temperature
slump will allow the glass to conform to the shape of the mould without
softening so much that it takes up all the markings of the mould. That in turn
means there are spaces for the air to escape from under the glass all the way
to the slumping temperature as well as through the air holes at the bottom. It
also gives the most mark-free slump possible for your shape.
If you are slumping
at such a temperature that the glass has sealed to the mould, you are firing too hot
anyway. Or put more positively, use a low temperature slump, that is, a slump
at the lowest temperature to achieve the desired result over an extended period
of your choice.
More information is available in the eBook Low Temperature Kilnforming available through Etsy or Bullseye.