Showing posts with label Stephen Richard. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stephen Richard. Show all posts

Wednesday 17 January 2024

Mending a crack

 I had a piece crack due to an annealing oops. I put powder on it and put it back in at a higher temp with a much longer anneal time. It looks great on the front, but I can still see where the crack was on the back. Is it supposed to be like that? I didn't think to put powder on that side.

If you think about why you get crisp lines at the bottom of a strip construction and a more fluid appearance on the top, you will be near the answer of why a repair looks ok on top but shows the crack on the bottom. The temperature on the bottom of the glass is less than on the top at the working temperature. And less again than the air temperature which we measure. This means that the bottom part of the glass has less chance to fully recombine. This, combined with the resistance to movement of the glass along the shelf, results in evidence of the crack being maintained.

Credit: Clearwater Glass Studio


There are some things that can be done to minimise the evidence of the crack. Make sure you know why your piece cracked before you try to mend it. An annealing crack will need different treatment than a thermal shock crack or a compatibility crack. Simply refiring the piece may only make the problem worse.

One approach is to place a sheet underneath. Make sure the broken glass is well cleaned and firmly pushed together. Dams may be useful to keep the glass compressed together. Glass expands both horizontally and vertically during the fusing process. Confining the glass will transfer most of the expansion in a vertical direction. This additional (small) vertical movement may help in forming the glass seamlessly. The broken glass now being supported by an unbroken sheet will enable the movement required to “heal” the crack.



If you do not want to change the surface, you can fire upside down. To do this you need to have a loose bed of powdered kiln wash, or whiting (a form of chalk) that is thick enough to press the textured side fully into the separator. Make sure the glass is pressed together without any separator getting into the crack. One way to ensure the crack does not open is to use a small amount of cyanoacrylate (super) glue which will burn away during the firing.  Put a sheet of clear glass over and fire. Thoroughly clean the face after this repair firing. The ultimate top needs to be fire polished to remove the evidence of the crack, and if it has picked up any marks from the powder.

You could, of course, fire upside down in this way but without the additional sheet, to avoid making the piece any thicker. This may or may not work well. If the base layer is one layer thick, it may pull in at the sides and pull apart at the crack where it is one layer thick.  It is also possible that bubbles will develop in the thin parts of tack glass because of the uneven thicknesses.

A final note. Placing powder on the back will not improve things. The powder will not fully incorporate with the glass and so leave a rough surface without concealing the crack.

Avoiding breaks

To repair or not

The process of repairing

Wednesday 10 January 2024

Identification of Mechanical and Thermal Stress

The Identification of stress is important in investigating the causes of stress. We have well established clues to help us with our glass selection and alteration of our firing schedules. We can get more information about why the cold glass has broken from the scientific literature. The manufacturers of float glass and the installers of large panes investigate thoroughly the causes of breaks in glass that has been installed. 

One article - Breaking It Down, Why Did the Glass Break? by Timothy Bellovary from Vitro Architectural Glass - looks at mechanical and thermal stress and distinguishing between the two.  This post is quoted extracts from that article. [Text in square brackets are interpolations of mine].   Note that all the illustrations are from the article and are copyrighted.

Source: https://vcn.vitroglazings.com/technical-forumdiagnosing-glass-breakage

Identifying the break origin can provide hints about the following:

·         Mode of glass failure—Was it mechanical or thermally induced stress?

·         The stress or tension level at which the breakage occurred.

·         Other contributing factors—were there digs (deep, short scratches) resulting from glass-to-glass or glass-to-metal contact? Did a projectile hit the glass? Is there edge or surface damage?

 

To find the origin of a break, the first step is to assess its direction by inspecting the fracture lines… in the glass. These rib-shaped marks, distinguished by a wave-like pattern, begin at the break origin and radiate along break branches, and almost always project into the concave face of these lines.



Figure 1
Diagram of Fracture Line Direction


It’s often helpful to make a basic diagram (see Figure 1) of the fracture lines. … The origin of the break can be determined by:

·         Drawing arrows (indicating fracture line direction) pointing into the concave face of break wave markings in the glass edge.

·         Tracing point-to-tail of arrows back to the break origin.

 

Mechanical Stress

Low-stress tension breaks are experienced most frequently by residential window and IGU manufacturers. The origin of the break is typically at damaged areas of the edge or surfaces near the edge, such as digs, scratches or chips. In many cases, breakage from damaged glass occurs after the initial edge damage is incurred, such as during IGU fabrication, sashing operations, transportation, job-site handling or storage, or the installation process.

In Figure 2, the break origin is not 90 degrees to the edge of the glass, indicating a tension break caused by bending. Low-stress, mechanical tension breaks often occur from bending at less than 1,500 psi.

Figure 2

Low-Stress Mechanical Tension Break


High-stress tension breaks share one characteristic with low-stress tension breaks: The break origin is not 90 degrees to the edge of the glass, suggesting a tension break caused by bending. However, additional branching of the crack within two inches of the break origin (see Figure 3) indicates that the stress at breakage was likely higher than 1,500 psi.


Figure 3

High-Stress Mechanical Tension Break

 

Thermal Stress

Thermal stress breaks often originate at the edge of the glass and form virtually 90-degree angles to the edge and surface of the glass.

As with mechanical stress, there are two types of thermal stress breaks: low stress and high stress.

 


Figure 4

Low-Stress Thermal Break

Low-stress thermal breaks are often indicated by a single break line starting at the break origin point at or near the glass edge and propagating two inches or more before branching into more break lines (see Figure 4). Damaged glass edges are the most frequent cause of low-stress thermal breakage.

 

High-stress thermal breaks appear as a single break line starting at the break origin point at or near the glass edge and generally branching into additional breaks within two inches [50mm] of the origin. This indicates a breakage brought on by conditions that cause high thermal stress, such as severe outdoor shading on parts of the glazing; heating registers located between the glass and indoor shading devices; closed, light-colored drapes located close to the glass; or glazing in massive concrete, stone or similar framing.


Figure 5

High-Stress Thermal Break

Analysing the Break Origin

A reliable method for estimating the stress level of a break at failure is a mirror radius measurement. Radius dimensions are determined by crack propagation velocity characteristics.

A crack propagates itself through glass with increasing velocity as it moves further from the point of origin. If an object has sufficient energy to propagate a crack through the thickness of the glass, then a “spider web” pattern will form. ….

Near the point of origin, a smooth, mirror-like appearance on the fracture face indicates a low crack velocity. However, as velocity increases (due to higher tension stress), the fracture face takes on a frosted look; then, at the highest velocity, it assumes a ragged or hackled appearance. Mirror radii appear in various forms, depending on the stress level of the fracture.

Figure 6 shows break origins resulting from high tensile stresses, such as bending or thermal stress breaks.

Figure 6

High-Stress Mirror Radii
(R = Mirror radii)

 

Figure 7 represents the break origins of glass fracturing at low bending stresses. In this example, a smooth fracture face forms across the thickness of the substrate. When the breaking stress is low, the mirror radius is often radial and may extend deeply into the substrate.

Figure 7

Low-Stress Mirror Radii
(R = Mirror radii)

 

To identify what damaged the glass in the first place, four factors are examined during this analysis:

·         Impact

·         Inclusions

·         Thermal variance

·         Pressure differentials

Impact

Identifying the nature of the breakage pattern can determine whether a foreign object hit the glass and whether the impact was perpendicular or parallel.

Depending on the severity of the impact, the immediate area surrounding the break origin might be cracked, crushed or missing.

                 
Figure 9

High-Stress Mechanical Breakage

[This pattern of break is often exhibited when the separator fails or is insufficient to keep the glass from sticking to the ceramic support shelf.] …

Inclusions

Any undesirable material embedded in glass is considered an inclusion. ... [In general, kilnformers place inclusions within the glass and know the risks of breaks].

Thermal Variance

[This article relates to float glass installations, but the principle remains.] If the temperature difference across a [piece] of glass is great enough, the accompanying stresses can reach levels that cause breakage. … The combination of contact, surface damage and localized temperature gradients can greatly increase the likelihood of breakage.

Pressure Differentials

[This section applies mainly to Insulated Glazing Units. It points out that differences in altitude between the manufacturing and installation sites – in combination with temperature – can cause breaks. It is not of primary importance to most kilnforming, but something which should be considered when installing kilnformed glass in an IGU]

Conclusion

[Occasionally] glass breaks for no obvious reason. Whether it’s a one-off or part of a continuing pattern of incidents, glass breakage is inconvenient, potentially dangerous and costly. … Conducting “post-mortems” on glass breaks helps investigators identify the general reasons for each incident, including the type of failure that caused the break, and the potential original source of the damage. By using the techniques outlined in this article, [kilnformers] may be able to accurately identify the likely origin of such failures and … use that information to prevent future occurrences.

https://vcn.vitroglazings.com/technical-forumdiagnosing-glass-breakage

[An important element in identifying breaks in kilnforming that this article demonstrates is the difference in the angle of the break. A 90 degree angle to the surface indicates a thermal cause to the break. The more branching of the lines of breakage, the greater the stress. The branching breaks indicate there was significant temperature difference.

The breaks which are less than a right angle to the surface indicate a mechanical origin of the stress. This is usually the glass breaking at a weak point when subject to a bending stress.

If the point of origin of the stress can be identified as demonstrated in the article, it may help in determining causes. One of these causes might be hot or cold spots in the kiln.]

 

 

Wednesday 3 January 2024

Stainless Steel Stringer Pots

Credit: Paul Gardner httpswww.facebook.com


 It is a consideration in stringer and murrini work that the pot be re-usable. This has led to the development of stainless steel square pots.  The thorough cleaning of these is difficult even with a lot of banging. Containers with removal bases have been developed as a result.

 The importance of a container with an integrated bottom is to ensure the glass is contained within the pot. To be reusable, the pot can be lined with fibre on sides and bottom. However, fibres can be drawn from the lining into the stream of glass.

Credit: Paul Gardner

 If you have a stainless-steel square with a removable bottom, the pot can be cleaned more easily and does not need the fibre lining. It also allows easy switching of bases with different hole sizes and shapes.

 However, some people have had the difficulty of the glass flowing out between the sides and bottom of the pot and onto the floor of the kiln. Glass is heavy and can float the much lighter stainless steel off the base, allowing the glass to flow sideways as well as through the hole in the base.

 This indicates that the stainless steel square should be weighted down. Placing kiln furniture on top of the pot can avoid it being floated off the base piece. These can be dams made from kiln shelves, dense fire brick, a small shelf, ceramic tiles, or other kiln furniture. Putting the furniture on two opposing corners will be enough to counteract the floating of the pot and still allow radiant heat to reach the glass.

Pots can be made from refractory materials too, such as vermiculite.

Liners for pots

Wednesday 27 December 2023

Scheduling with the Bullseye Annealing Chart

This post is about adapting the Bullseye chart Annealing Thick Slabs to write a schedule for any soda lime glass as used in kilnforming.

I frequently recommend that people should use the Bullseye chart for Annealing Thick Slabs in Celsius  and Fahrenheit.  This chart applies to glass from 6mm to 200mm (0.25” to 8”).

“Why should the Bullseye annealing chart be used instead of some other source?  I don’t use Bullseye.”

My answer is that the information in the chart is the most thoroughly researched set of tables for fusing compatible glass that is currently available.  This means that the soak times and rates for the thicknesses can be relied upon.

“How can it be used for glass other than Bullseye?”  

The rates and times given in the chart work for any soda lime glass, even float. It is only some of the temperatures that need to be changed.

"How do I do that?"  

My usual response is: substitute the annealing temperature for your glass into the one given in the Bullseye table.

 "It’s only half a schedule."

That is so.  The heating of glass is so dependent on layup, size, style, process, and purpose of the piece.  This makes it exceedingly difficult to suggest a generally applicable firing schedule.  People find this out after using already set schedules for a while. What works for one layup does not for another.

Devising a Schedule for the Heat Up

There is no recommendation from the chart on heat up.  You have to write your own schedule for the first ramps.  I can give some general advice on some of the things you need to be aware of while composing your schedule.

The essential element to note is that the Bullseye chart is based on evenly thick pieces of glass.  Tack fusing different thicknesses of glass across the piece, requires more caution. The practical process is to fire as for thicker pieces.  The amount of additional thickness is determined by the profile being used.  The calculation for addition depends on the final profile.  The calculation for thickness is as follows:

  • Contour fusing - multiply the thickest part by 1.5. 
  • Tack fusing - multiply the thickest part by 2. 
  • Sharp tack or sinter - multiply the thickest part by 2.5.

The end cooling rate for the appropriate thickness is a guide for the first ramp rate of your schedule.  For example, the final rate for an evenly thick piece 19mm/0.75” is 150ºC/270ºF.  This could be used as the rate for the first ramp. 

Bob Leatherbarrow has noted that most breaks occur below 260ºC/500ºF.  If there are multiple concerns, more caution can be used for the starting ramp rate.  My testing shows that using a rate of two thirds the final rate of cooling with a 20 minute soak is cautious.  In this example of a 19mm piece it would be 100ºC/180ºF per hour.

Even though for thinner pieces the rates given are much faster, be careful.  It is not advisable to raise the temperature faster than 330ºC/600ºF per hour to care for both the glass and the kiln shelf.

Once the soak at 260ºC//500ºF is finished, the ramp to the bubble squeeze should maintain the previous rate.  It should not be speeded up.  The glass is still in the brittle phase.

After the bubble squeeze you can use a ramp rate to the top temperature of up to 330C/600F.   AFAP rates to top temperature are not advisable.  It is difficult to maintain control of the overshoots in temperature that are created by rapid rates.  

The top temperature should be such as to achieve the result in 10 minutes to avoid problems that can occur with extended soaks at top temperature.

In the example of an evenly thick 19mm/0.75” piece a heat up full fuse schedule like this could be used:

  • 150ºC/270ºF to 566ºC/1052ºF for 0 minutes
  • 50C/90F to 643C/1191F for 30 minutes
  • 333ºC/600ºF to 804ºC/1479ºF for 10 minutes

 

If a more cautious approach to the heat up is desired, this might be the kind of schedule used:

 

  • 100ºC/180ºF to 260ºC/500ºF for 20 minutes
  • 100ºC/180ºF to 566ºC/1052ºF for 0 minutes
  • 50C/90F to 643ºC/1191ºF for 30 minutes
  • 333ºC/600ºF to 804ºC/1479ºF for 10 minutes

This approach is applicable to all fusing glasses.

 

Adapting the Bullseye Annealing Chart

After writing the first part of the schedule, you can continue to apply the annealing information from the Bullseye chart.  The first part of the anneal cooling starts with dropping the temperature as fast as possible to the annealing temperature.

The method for making the chart applicable to the annealing is a matter of substitution of temperatures.  

First, determine the annealing point of the glass.  Go to the web page of the glass manufacturer to get their annealing temperature.  You can use the information in this blog post giving some of the critical temperatures for a range of glasses.  This information has been taken from the manufacturers’ web sites as they are sometimes difficult to find.  A brief listing of some published annealing soak temperatures:

  • Bullseye                               482C/900F
  • Oceanside                            510C/960F
  • Uroboros by Youghiogheny     510C/960F
  • Old Uroboros                        519C/967F
  • Wissmach 96                        482C/900F
  • Youghiogheny96                    510C/960F
  • Float Glass
  • Pilkington Optiwhite               559C/1039F
  • Pilkington Optifloat                548C/1019F
  • USA float (typical)                 548C/1019F
  • Australian float (typical)         548C/1019F

Use the annealing temperature from your source as the target temperature in place of the Bullseye temperature.

The annealing soak times are important to equalise the temperature within the glass to an acceptable level (ΔT=5ºC).  The annealing soak time is related to the calculated thickness of the piece.  This measurement is done in the same way as devising the appropriate rate for heat up. 

Applying the Cooing Rates

Then apply the rates and temperatures as given in the chart.  The three stage cooling is important.  The gradually increasing rates keep the temperature differentials within acceptable bounds with the most rapid and safe rates.

The temperatures and rates remain the same for all soda lime glasses – the range of glass currently used in fusing, including float glass.  The soak time for the calculated thickness of your glass piece will be the same as in the Bullseye chart.  

This means that the first cooling stage will be to 427ºC/800ºF.  The second stage will be from 427ºC/800ºF to 371ºC/700˚F.  And the final stage will be from 371ºC/700˚F to room temperature.

I will repeat, because it is so important, that the thickness to be used for the anneal soak and cooling rates for your schedule relates to the profile you desire.  A fuse with even thickness across the whole piece can use the times, temperatures, and rates as given in the chart as adapted for your glass.  The thicknesses to use are for:

Contour fusing - multiply the thickest part by 1.5. 

Tack fusing - multiply the thickest part by 2. 

Sharp tack or sinter - multiply the thickest part by 2.5.

An annealing cool schedule for 19mm/0.75" Oceanside glass is like this:

  • AFAP to 510˚C/ 951˚F for 3:00 hours
  • 25˚C/45˚F to 427˚C/800˚F for 0 time
  • 45˚C/81˚F to 371˚C/700˚F for 0 time
  • 150˚C/270˚F to room temperature, off.


Many will wish to turn off the kiln as early as possible.  This is not part of best kilnforming practice.  If you still wish to do this, the turn off temperature must be related to the thickness and nature of the piece.  To turn off safely, you need to know the cooling characteristics of your kiln.  This can be determined by observing the temperature against time and then calculating the kiln’s natural cooling rateAnd then applying that information to cooling the kiln.

 

The best source for devising schedules is the Bullseye chart for Annealing Thick Slabs.  It is well researched and is applicable with little work to develop appropriate schedules for all the fusing glasses currently in use.

 

 




Wednesday 20 December 2023

Anneal and Cool Relationship

Annealing and cooling are directly related. You cannot extend the anneal soak without also slowing the cooling rates and expect to have a sound piece. What I am seeing on the internet groups about annealing breaks is comments saying the anneal soak is not long enough. So, people add time to the hold at the annealing temperature and still get breaks. They get breaks because the cooling rates are not slowed when the annealing soak time is extended.

A recording of an anneal soak and cool


If you need 3 hours anneal soak, you cannot cool at a rate of 83C°/150°F to 371C°/700°F. An anneal of 3 hours implies you are firing a piece of effectively* 19mm/0.75”. This needs a cool rate of :

  • ·        25°C to 427°C. (45°F/hr to 800°F),
  • ·        45°C/hour to 371°C (81°F/hr to 700°F),
  • ·        150°C/hour (270°F) to room temperature.

Put the other way around, if you can use a first cool rate of 55°C (100°F)/hr you can use a two-hour soak at anneal. That means that you are firing a piece effectively* 12mm/0.5” thick.

But you cannot expect to maintain the required small temperature differential of 5°C/10°F (achieved at the anneal) with a single cool rate. Tests by Bullseye and confirmed by my own recorded tests show that a three-stage cooling is necessary to maintain that small difference of temperature throughout the cooling without using excessive firing times.

A two-hour soak requires cooling in three stages of:

  • ·        55°C /100°F to 427°C/ 800°F
  • ·        99°C/179°F to 371°C/700°F
  • ·        330°C/595°F to room temperature.

If that small 5°C/10°F temperature differential is not maintained in the first stage cooling, temporary stresses can be induced.  Slightly higher levels of temperature differentials can be withstood during the next stages. The stresses induced by larger temperature differences can be great enough to break the glass. In many schedules published online by kilnformers, very long soaks are being used in relation the effective* thickness. But the cool soaks are too rapid in relation to the anneal hold to avoid inducing excessive (although temporary) stress.

This practice presumes the anneal soak is all there is to the production of a sound piece of glass. It is not. The cool rates from annealing to room temperature are important. To repeat, a long annealing soak with fast cool rates can lead to breaks - breaks that are not related to the annealing time. The cooling rates must be related to the amount of time needed for the anneal soak. A fast cool can induce temporary stresses that are great enough to break the glass. The appearance of the break will often be similar to an anneal break.

Don’t worry about using additional electricity with the slower rates of cooling. If the kiln cools more slowly than the scheduled rate, no power will be used. The relays will not have to operate.

Annealing times and cool rates are intimately related. And must be scheduled in relation to one another to avoid unnecessary breaks.

A more extensive discussion of this issue can be found in the ebook Low Temperature Kilnforming.


*”Effectively” in this context means a flat piece of the given dimension. The “thickness” of piece that is of uneven levels - as for a tack fuse - can be calculated to need firing as though it was a multiple of the actual total thickness. The multiple is based on the tack fusing profile.

Wednesday 13 December 2023

Fold Moulds

 


These moulds are available in stainless steel forms in various sizes

You can create your own mould for self-supporting display items. Fibre board and vermiculite board are suitable.



 

I chose 25mm/1” fibre board because I had a suitable piece lying around. It is possible to use thinner fibre board, but the thicker board is more likely to resist deformation over a long use period. The 15mm/0.675” board is suitable for light use. These do not need to be rigidised unless you desire to for a more robust structure. They do not need to be kiln washed unless you feel a better surface will be achieved.

Angled Surface

The 25mm/1” vermiculite board is more durable. It does need to be kiln washed to avoid glass sticking to it. Otherwise’ it is treated just the same as the fibre board.

The width and length of the board are determined by the width and length of the piece you are currently making or envisage making. You can make it longer than current needs and use a stop of a piece of fibre board or other kiln furniture to ensure the glass does not slip down the slope. This allows you to adjust the mould to different lengths for a variety of projects.

Both materials need to have an angle cut from one end. This is the end that will be elevated. It allows the glass to bend directly from the end of the angled board. This angle does not need to be more than 30 degrees from vertical, as most self-supporting items have angles of about 15 degrees or less.

Support

Then a support piece needs to be made. If it is not of fibre board, it needs to be kiln washed to prevent the glass from sticking. This support needs to be as wide as the angled board. The height of support will determine the angle of the finished piece.

It needs to be aligned vertically and directly under the top of the angled board. A try square can help with this alignment. This support also stops the draping glass from curving under the top. It would be interesting for a rocking horse kind of item, but not for a stable decoration.

The support under the elevated end can be made to various heights to obtain various angles on the piece. Also, different heights of support will be required to maintain the same angle on different lengths of the standing piece. This makes the home-made mould much more versatile than the steel ones.

The Stop

The stop is a piece of kiln furniture placed on the slope at the end of the glass to ensure the glass does not slip down during the firing. It is not fixed to the sloped board so that it can be repositioned. If you are using fibre board for the slope and the stop, you can pin the stop to the sloped board. Or you can use heavier kiln furniture, propped as appropriate to form the stop.


Firing notes

Glass lengths

The length of base in relation to upright needs to be determined before firing. You can, of course, cut the excess base length off after firing. I make the base to be the same length as the top leans back. This ensures the piece will not become top heavy.

A spirit level can be used to determine how long the support needs to be. You already know how long the sloped piece of glass is. Place the stop at that distance from the top end of the sloped board. Use a spirit level to indicate the length the base will need to be. When levelled, make a mark on the support. Then measure the distance from the mark to the top of the slope. That length plus the length of the sloped glass will equal the total length of the flat glass.

Scheduling

Use a moderate ramp rate for the thickness of the glass. The top temperature should be about 650˚C/1200˚F. Set the soak time for an hour. Peek frequently from the start of the hold to be sure the glass has draped vertically. When it has advance to the next segment and proceed to anneal.




Sunday 10 December 2023

Sealing MEMS Devices with Glass

 

Krista Grayson

However, the success of MEMS devices often hinges on maintaining a hermetic environment to protect their delicate internal components. This is where glass frit sealing technology comes into play, providing a superior solution for achieving reliable hermetic seals in precise applications like MEMS manufacturing and packaging.2

Understanding Hermetic Sealing and its Importance

Hermetic sealing involves creating an airtight barrier around a device to prevent the entry of contaminants, moisture, and other external elements. This sealing technique is crucial for MEMS devices as even minute environmental influences can alter their performance or lead to premature failure. In applications where stability, precision, and reliability are paramount, such as in the aerospace, medical, and telecommunications industries, achieving a hermetic seal is essential.2

Glass Frit Sealing: The Ideal Solution for MEMS

Among the various methods available to achieve hermetic seals, glass frit sealing stands out as a versatile and high-yield approach, particularly suited for MEMS applications. This technique leverages the unique properties of glass to create a reliable, robust, and precise encapsulation for MEMS devices while imposing minimal stress on the bonding surface. In a three-step process, a glass paste is screen-printed on a capping wafer, which is then bonded to the subject device through thermocompression for 10 minutes. During this process, 1000 mBar of force and 440 °C are applied to the material under a vacuum. Capable of bonding both hydrophobic and hydrophilic surfaces, this technique can be applied to almost all commonly used microsystem surface materials, such as aluminum, silicon, and glass.3,4

Tailoring Precision Using the Coefficient of Thermal Expansion (CTE)

As the name implies, glass frit sealing makes use of glass particles, known as frit, which can be precisely formulated to match the coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE) of different materials.4 The CTE of a material refers to how its dimensions change with temperature fluctuations. By tailoring the glass frit’s composition, its CTE can be adjusted to closely match that of the MEMS device and the encapsulating material. This compatibility ensures that, when subjected to temperature variations, the seal remains intact without compromising the structural integrity of the device.2

Mo-Sci, a pioneering glass technology company, has been at the forefront of developing and perfecting glass frit sealing solutions for various high-tech applications, including MEMS devices. Its expertise lies in creating sealing glasses with customizable thermal expansion coefficients. With a diverse range of glass-metal and glass-ceramic seals that are meticulously matched in terms of CTE and are capable of enduring temperatures as high as 1600°C, Mo-Sci is an ideal partner for MEMS manufacturers seeking reliable hermetic sealing solutions.2,5

The Versatility of Glass Frit Sealing

The applications of glass frit sealing extend beyond MEMS devices and encompass a range of cutting-edge technologies:

1. Solar Cells

Sealing glasses find utility in encapsulating perovskite photovoltaic elements. These elements are promising alternatives to traditional silicon solar cells due to their high efficiency and lower production costs. However, perovskite cells are highly sensitive to moisture, whereby even small amounts can completely prevent function. Laser-assisted bonding of glass frit sealing guarantees a durable hermetic barrier, shielding perovskite cells from moisture exposure and locking in lead-containing chemicals.2

2. Metal Ion and Thermal Batteries

In the evolving landscape of energy storage solutions, glass frit sealing plays a pivotal role in enhancing the reliability and longevity of metal ion batteries, including lithium-ion and sodium-ion batteries. These batteries require seals that can withstand high temperatures and resist chemical corrosion. Sealing glasses provide a resilient barrier that enables the efficient operation of these advanced battery technologies.

Sealing glass is also a viable solution for molten salt batteries. These batteries are highly dependent on sodium salts, including sodium-nickel and sodium-sulfur chloride, to achieve remarkable energy and power densities. For this reason, they are an appealing option for large-scale industrial and energy storage applications.

Sealing glasses are classed as a high-energy alternative to conventional polymeric or metal seals as they exhibit excellent resilience against demanding chemical environments but also against the rigorous operating temperatures inherent to molten salt batteries, which can range from 300 °C to 350 °C.2

3. High Temperature Sensors

Glass frit sealing also finds applications in high-temperature environments, such as automotive systems and chemical processing plants. The predictable thermal expansion and corrosion-resistant nature of sealing glass ensure the longevity and stability of sensors operating in extreme conditions.2

4. Solid Oxide Fuel Cells (SOFCs)

SOFCs hold tremendous promise for clean and efficient power generation, but their high operating temperatures present engineering challenges. To create high-temperature sealant materials for SOFCs, Mo-Sci currently utilizes two methods. One relies on a traditional glass-ceramic seal, wherein the glass undergoes crystallization to establish bonds with the sealing components.

The second approach involves the development of viscous-compliant glass seals. These seals remain vitreous throughout application and can self-heal, mitigating the risks associated with thermal stresses and ensuring the long-term stability of SOFCs.This groundbreaking technology is anticipated to play a pivotal role in facilitating the commercialization of SOFCs and driving their widespread adoption.2,6

Embracing the Future with Glass Frit Sealing

Glass frit sealing technology has emerged as a transformative solution for achieving hermetic seals in MEMS devices and a wide array of other advanced applications. By precisely engineering the properties of sealing glasses, companies like Mo-Sci enable manufacturers to create highly reliable and robust encapsulation systems.

As industries continue to push the boundaries of technological innovation, the role of glass frit sealing in safeguarding sensitive components and ensuring optimal device performance becomes increasingly vital.

References and Further Reading

  1. Forbes. Why Timing Must Be Tough Enough For Our Digital World. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbestechcouncil/2021/09/02/why-timing-must-be-tough-enough-for-our-digital-world/ (Accessed on 10 August 2023).
  2. Mo-Sci. Sealing Glass Applications. Available at: https://mo-sci.com/sealing-glass-applications/ (Accessed on 10 August 2023).
  3. Chang H-D, et al. (2010). High hermetic performance of glass frit for MEMS package. 2010 5th International Microsystems Packaging Assembly and Circuits Technology Conference. https://doi.org/10.1109/IMPACT.2010.5699539
  4. Knechtel R. (2015). Chapter 31 – Glass Frit Bonding. Handbook of Silicon Based MEMS Materials and Technologies (Second Edition). https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-323-29965-7.00031-2
  5. Mo-Sci. Matching Coefficient of Thermal Expansion in Glass Seals. Available at: https://mo-sci.com/matching-cte-in-glass-seals/ (Accessed 10 August 2023).
  6. Mo-Sci. Sealing Glass. Available at: https://mo-sci.com/products/sealing-glass/ (Accessed on 10 August 2023).

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