Need for an Extension of Anneal Soak on Subsequent Firings
An example of the first cooling stage |
The rates are applicable to other than Bullseye glass. Only the temperatures need to be changed.
An example of the first cooling stage |
The rates are applicable to other than Bullseye glass. Only the temperatures need to be changed.
It is common to think of cooling after annealing as a simple single cool rate to an intermediate temperature between annealing and room temperatures before turning off. This most often works well for full fused pieces up to 6mm/0.25. But as the pieces become thicker or more complex, the need for more controlled cooling becomes necessary.
Examples may help understand the cooling requirements of
glass that it thicker, or tack or contour fused.
Example 1
A 12mm/0.5” full fused piece needs
a two-hour annealing soak, followed by three cooling rates of 55°C/100°F per
hour, 99°C/180°F hour and finally 300°C/540°F per hour. The first rate is for
the first 55°C/100°F, the second rate for the next 55°C/100°F, and the final
rate is to room temperature.
An example of the variation in ΔT during the first 55C/100F of cooling |
Example 2
A rounded tack fuse of 1-base and 2-layer
stacks gives a total of 9mm/0.375”. Research has shown that you need to
schedule for twice the actual thickness for rounded tack fusing - so for
19mm/0.75”.
This requires an anneal soak of 150 minutes, and a first cool of 20°C/36°F. The second cool rate can be increased to 36°C/65°F. The final rate can be at 120°C/216°F per hour to room temperature.
The ΔT at the beginning of annealing was 7°C/12.6°F and at the end of a 2-hour soak was a ΔT of 1°C/2°F. The first cool ramp was 20°C/36°F per hour and gave a variance of between 2°C/3.6° and 0°. The final cool produced variances of up to 6°C/11°F, ending at 88°C/190°F with a ΔT=2°C.
An example of the ΔT during the second 55C/100F of cooling |
Example 3
A sharp tack or sintered piece
with two base layers and two tack layer stacks on top requires firing as though
30mm/1.18”.
An example of the ΔT during the final stage of cooling to Room Temperature
More information on cooling is given in the book LowTemperature Kilnforming; an Evidence-Based Approach to Scheduling.
Good annealing is important to the success of each firing of a piece.
This is generally agreed.
I do not understand the reasoning of those who use long anneal soaks followed by quick cool rates and early shut offs. I don't understand because reasons are not given. Or the reasons are in the realm of kiln fairies and other mythical beings.
The length of the annealing soak can be determined from established sources. The Bullseye table for annealing thick slabs gives the recommended soak times for evenly thick slabs of glass from 6mm/0.25” to 200mm/8.0”. Use that to determine the annealing soak time.
The soak times do not need lengthening except for pieces of uneven thicknesses. The ebook Low Temperature Kilnforming gives the calculations for variations in thickness and degree of tack. Generally, they are 1.5 for contour; 2 for rounded tack; and 2.5 for sharp/angular tack. Excessively long soaks are not desirable. This is additional evidence that long soaks and quick cools create problems.
Use of the Bullseye table shows that there are cool rates associated with the soak times. These rates for the length of annealing soak need to be used, as they are based on research, rather than fingers in the air or mythical beings.
My experiments have shown the need to control the cooling rates to at least 50C before shutting off. The end of an adequate annealing soak has the glass within 5°C/10°F of each other part (the ΔT=5). The slow cool for the first 55°C/100°F below is important to avoid exceeding that maximum differential. The rate for the next 55°C/100°F is faster and can allow a wider ΔT, as the stresses are temporary. But they can be great enough at any point to break the glass during fast cools. Therefore, the rates associated with the annealing soaks cannot be exceeded safely.
Do not just use "what works" for others. Use information based on research. The only company publishing research is Bullseye. Their research is applicable to all fusing glass with the appropriate temperature adjustments.
If you use long annealing soaks and quick cool rates or ones that stop at about 370°C/700°F, you risk breakages of your glass. There is no reason to take that risk. Also long cools from annealing to 370°C take longer than the staged cooling recommended by the Bullseye research.
I once made a statement about the effects of various dam materials on scheduling. This was based on my understanding of the density of three common refractory materials used in kilnforming – ceramic shelves, vermiculite board and fibre board. I decided to test these statements. This showed I was wrong in my assumptions.
I set up a test of the heat gain and loss of the three materials. This was done without any glass involved to eliminate the influence of the glass on the behaviour of the dams. The dam materials were laid on the kiln shelf with thermocouples between. These were connected to a data logger to record the temperatures.
Test Setup
The schedule used was a slightly modified one for 6mm:
The data retrieved from the data recording is shown by the following graphs.
Temperature profile of the air, ceramic, fibre, and vermiculite during the firing.
Highlights:
This graph is initially confusing as positive numbers
indicate the temperature of the first is cooler than the material it is compared
with, and hotter when in negative numbers.
A= air; C=ceramic;
F=fibre board; V=vermiculite
Temperature variations
between air and dams
At the data points:
Since we cannot see more than the air temperature on our
controllers it is useful to compare air and dam temperatures. The same data
points apply as the graph comparing differences between materials.
Conclusions
The course from which this information is taken is based on float glass. This is a soda lime glass just as fusing glass is. The general observations – although not the temperatures – can be applied to fusing glasses. This is a paraphrase of the course. It relates these observations to kilnforming. The course is IMI-NFG Course on Processing in Glass, by Mathieu Hubert, PhD. 2015
Viscosity vs. Temperature for a borosilicate glass
Graph credit: Schott
First, the viscosity value remains the same over many types and styles of glass. The temperature required to achieve that viscosity varies, leading to different annealing temperatures for different glass.
Annealing can take place at different points within the
range. Bullseye chose some years ago to
recommend annealing at a higher viscosity, i.e., a lower temperature. This has also been applied by Wissmach in
their documentation although initially the published annealing point was almost
30°C higher.
After annealing, the glass should be cooled slowly and
uniformly to avoid formation of internal stresses due to temperature
differentials within the glass. Stresses
that are unrelieved above the strain point are permanent. Stresses induced during cooling below the
strain point are temporary, unless they are too great. To avoid permanent stress, the cooling should
be slow between anneal soak and strain point (p.9). Although glass can be cooled more quickly
below the strain point, care must be taken that the temperature differentials
within the glass are not so great as to cause breaks due to uneven contraction.
Source: IMI-NFG Course on Processing in Glass, by Mathieu Hubert, PhD. 2015 (available online www.lehigh.edu/imi).
Do you run small pieces of glass through the whole cycle or just bring it up to your degree posted and cool down?
Picture credit: Eva Glass Design
It would appear easy to ignore the need to anneal small
pieces. They can anneal with short heat
soaks. In industry the anneal of sheet
glass is 15 minutes for 4mm/0.019” glass. In kilnforming the 30ºC - 40ºC/54ºF – 72ºF below the annealing point is where annealing is effective. If you are certain that the natural cooling rate of
your kiln is more than 15 minutes for that temperature range, you can simply
turn off after top temperature.
However, it is not a good practice unless you intend to confine
you kilnforming to small pieces. All
glass needs to be annealed to be sound.
Small pieces may need only 15 minutes and often that can be achieved with the natural cooling rate of your kiln.
But pieces of 6mm/0.25” thick and over 100mm/4” in any direction need to
be annealed with longer soaks and slower cools. This is done with a hold of
the amount of time appropriate to your glass and layup. There is an excellent table from Bullseye
that gives the hold times and rates for cooling glass of different calculated thickness.
Using an annealing soak and a cooling cycle for every firing
is a good practice. This gets you into a
habit, so that you do not skimp on the anneal and cool for larger, thicker, or tack
fused pieces. If your kiln cools more
slowly than you have scheduled, that's ok. The kiln does not use any electricity to heat the
elements. No additional electricity cost
or wear on the kiln occurs.
Any suggestions on how to avoid getting the oblong bubble under the neck of the bottle? This was my first try and I’m really happy with clarity, no devitrification in these.
I used this schedule:
Fahrenheit Celsius
300/1150/30 167/620/30
200/1370/20 111/740/20
400/1450/20 222/787/20
AFAP/950/60 AFAP/510/60
150/800/0 63/427/0
300/100 167/55/off
The bubble is kind of cool but not sure what it will do when I put it in a bottle mould.
To minimise the bubble, you need a bubble squeeze. There isn't one of sufficient length or at the right temperature in the schedule. The softening point of bottle glass is approximately 720C. Starting the bubble squeeze at ca. 670C/1240F and progressing slowly (ca.50/90F or less) to 720C/1340F may give a better bubble squeeze.
Also, the anneal soak is a bit low. Bottle glass and float glass both have annealing points of about 550C. You might make use of a lower annealing soak temperature to reduce the cooling time. It is usually possible to anneal 30C below the published annealing temperature. In this case that would be 520C.
There is pretty thick glass in some places due to the way the bottom and neck of the bottle form. You may want to extend your anneal soak to one for 12mm/0.5”. The soak time for this is 2 hours. The first cooling segment would be 55C/100F per hour to 475C/888F if you use 520C/970F as the annealing soak. The second cool segment should be at 99C/180F per hour to 420C/790F. And the final rate at 330C/600F to room temperature. It is important to include all three stages of cooling. The research for my book Low Temperature Kilnforming (Or directly from stephen.richard43@gmail.com) has shown that to get the best stress-free results use all three stages of cooling.
Bubbles at the shoulder of the bottle are common. The change in circumference of the bottle at the shoulder means there is a greater amount of glass to “compress”. Bottles with tapered circumference at the top of the bottle have fewer problems with creating bubbles. The abrupt change in size at the shoulder causes bubbles to be more common. A long slow bubble squeeze will allow the shoulder to form more closely in line with the neck.
There are other things you can do to
help avoid the bubbles. One thing is to insert a thin kiln washed wire into the
neck of the bottle. This gives a path for the air to escape and allows you to
pull it out, although a mark will be left. You could also think of
drilling a hole in what will be the underside at the shoulder to allow air out
to the shelf. It does not need to be a big hole.
Bubbles at the shoulder of a slumped bottle are a common problem. It results from the greater amount of glass that has to slump into the space. This leaves a cavity. Slower bubble squeezes can help, as well as various venting methods.