Making
your own Schedule
I've
been asked about making a schedule rather than using a pre-programmed
one. My response is this, but please join in with amplifications and
questions.
In
principle, a firing schedule for glass follows these stages:
1
– a gradual, steady heat up to a temperature above the annealing
point to avoid thermal shock
2
– a soak or slow rise around the slump temperature to allow any air
to escape
3
– a more rapid rise to top temperature to avoid devitrification
4
– a rapid fall in temperature to an annealing soak, saving time and
avoiding devitrification. The soak at annealing temperature is to
equalise the temperature throughout the glass
5
– a steady slow fall in temperature to well below the lower strain
point to complete the annealing
6
– a controlled cool to near room temperature to avoid thermal
shock.
The
details of schedules can appear complex, but the purposes of these
six stages are reasonably simple.
Segment
1 is to heat the glass evenly without causing it to break from
too fast an increase in temperature. At minimum this steady increase
in temperature must continue to about 40ºC above the annealing
point. (This will be about 540ºC)
Segment
2. This segment can include a “bubble squeeze” to enable air
to get from between sheets of glass before the edges seal, or it can
be a separate segment in your schedule. The slow rise in temperature
will occur from about 600ºC to 680ºC. The bubble squeeze soak
occurs at around 660ºC to 680ºC. In both cases there is normally a
soak of half an hour at least at the end of the range.
Segment
3 is to go through the devitrification range (say 700ºC to
760ºC) as quickly as reasonable, but usually no faster than 330C per
hour.
Segment
4 is to get back through the devitrification range to the
annealing soak, which will be as long as required to equalise the
temperature within the glass. This soak time increases exponentially
with the thickness.
Segment
5 is the annealing cool, which should be a slow steady fall in
temperature to ensure the glass all cools at the same rate (to around
370C).
Segment
6 continues the cool, although faster than previously, and often
is achieved by turning the kiln off and leaving it closed until room
temperature.
A
schedule for a 6mm piece up to 2/3 the size of your kiln could be
even simpler:
Segment
1 - 220 dph to 670C for 30 minutes
Segment
2 - 330 dph to 800 (flat fuse) for 10 minutes
Segment
3 - afap to 516 for 30 minutes
Segment
4 - 80 dph to 370, no soak
Segment
5 - off
You
may find a schedule that will work, but you still need to know why it
works, or at least what each segment is doing. So, for example, you
need to think about what a 15 minute soak at 225C will do. What is
the glass doing at that temperature? What do you want to achieve in
that temperature range? Is there another way to achieve your
objective? These are the kinds of questions you need to think about
so you can construct your independent schedule when you move outside
the parameters of the pre-programmed schedules.
To
make a schedule for yourself can be worrying. But you can see from
this example that it does not need to be complex. The principles are
simple, although the details can be confusing. It is essential to
know something about how heat affects the glass and this Bullseye Tech Note is one of the best descriptions.
Knowing
what the heat up events are is useful too.
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