Heat Work

“Heat work” is a term applied to help understand how the glass reacts to various ways of applying of heat to the glass. In its simple form, it is the amount of heat the glass has absorbed during the kiln forming heat up process.

There is an relationship between how heat is applied and the temperature required to achieve the wanted result.  Heat can be put into the glass quickly, but to achieve the desired result, it will need a relatively higher temperature. If you put the heat into the glass more slowly, it will require a relatively lower temperature.

For example, you may be able to achieve your desired result at 814C with a 400C/hr rise and 10min soak. But you may also be able to achieve the same result by using 790C with a 250C/hr rise and 10min soak. The same amount of heat has gone into the glass, as evidenced by the same result, but with different kinds of schedules. This can be important with thick glass, or with slumps where you want the minimum of mould marks. Of course, you can also achieve the same results with the fast rise with a longer soak at the lower temperature, e.g. a 400C/hr to 790C with a 30 min soak.

In short, this means that heat work is a combination of time and temperature.  The same effect can be achieved in two ways: 
- fast rates of advance and high temperatures
- slow rates of advance and low temperatures.

You obtain greater control over the processes when firing at slower rates with lower temperatures.  There is less marking of the back of the piece.  There is less sticking of the separators to the back and so less cleanup.  There is less needling with the lower temperature.  

The adage “slow and low” comes from this concept of heat work. The best results come from lower temperature processing, rather than fast processing of the kiln forming.

Pot Melt Temperature Effects

When firing a pot melt, you have to consider how high a temperature you wish to use.

Viscosity is reduced with higher temperatures so increasing the flow and reducing the length of soak, although there are often some undesirable opacifying effects.

The size of the hole is also relevant to the temp chosen. The smaller the hole, the higher the temperature will have to be to empty the pot in the same amount of time. Of course, you can just soak for longer at a lower temperature to achieve the desired object of emptying of the pot without changing the temperature.

Using the same principle, the larger the hole the lower the temperature required to empty the pot in a given amount of time.

The temperature used to empty the pot will need to be between 840C and 925C. The problem with temperatures in the 900C to 925C range is that the hot colours tend to change, e.g., red opal tends to turn dark and sometimes become brown. Some transparent glasses also opacify. There is also the possibility that some of the glasses will change their compatibility.

So the best results seem to come from temperatures in the 840 to 850C range with longer soaks than would be required at 925C - possibly 4 or more hours.

Also remember to give melts a longer than usual anneal as they will be thicker than 6mm at the centre - somtimes as much as twice the edge thickness.

Pot Melt Schedule

I usually use a schedule like this for either S96 or Bullseye:

100C/hr to 220C for 20 minutes; this is approximately the crystobalite inversion temperature – to be kind to the pot.

220C/hr to 570C for 20 minutes; this is approximately the quartz inversion temperature – again to be kind to the pot.

220C/hr to 677 for 30 minutes; this is a bubble squeeze temperature to allow larger bubbles to escape from the pot before melting begins.

330C/hr to 850C for 120 minutes; this is to ensure there is plenty of time to empty pot.

AFAP to 805C for 30 minutes; this is to allow thickness equalization and also to allow bubbles to pop and seal.

AFAP to 482 for 90 minutes; this is for Bullseye, but is applicable to other glasses too.

55C/hr to 427C no soak (for 6 to 8mm thickness)

99C/hr to 370C no soak.

120C/hr to 150 end.

Allow to cool to room temperature 

Pot Melt Contamination

Pot melting occurs at temperatures above that for which kiln washes are designed. This means the kiln wash most often sticks to the back of the melt.

If you put only fiber paper – Thinfire, Papyros, or standard 1mm or 2mm fibre paper – at the bottom, the dripping glass will tear and move it about.  It also tends to incorporate fibers from the refractory papers into the melt.  It is best to avoid fibre papers of any kind on the base.  Using fibre paper around the edges of dams, if you use them, is better than simple kiln washing of the dams.

From wikihow

If you have a sandblaster, it is easy to take the kiln wash off leaving a matt surface. You can live with this for many purposes, but if you want a more polished surface you can take the melt up to fire polishing temperature to shine up the surface. You will need to flip this over and fire again, if the original top surface is what you want to present.  Or if you like the new shiny surface, use it as is.

If you are going to cut the pot melt up for other uses, there is no need to fire polish as the surface does not matter, only the cleanliness, and removal of contaminants.


There is another thing you can do to avoid kiln wash contamination.

The best solution appears to be to put a disk or rectangle of glass on top of fibre paper. It can be clear or any colour you wish, but needs to fill the area enclosed by the dams. This seems to keep the fiber paper from tearing and being incorporated into the glass, even though the base will have the fibre paper marks.

It also works very well when you are confining the melt to get a thicker disk. Make sure you have kiln washed the sides of the container or dam very well, in addition to 3mm fibre paper arranged so that it is 3mm narrower than the expected final thickness, or any excess glass may stick to the dams. The means of arranging the fibre paper around the dams is given here. You may need to grind the marks off the edge of the disk, but this is much easier than grinding it off the bottom.

Draping over steep moulds

Draping over a narrow or small supporting ridge with large areas of glass is difficult.

One solution might be just to invert the whole piece and let the glass slide down into the mould. However, there rarely is enough height in a glass kiln for deep slumps, especially with a “V” shaped mould. It has to be high enough for the edges of the glass to be supported at its edges. You could also approach this by having a first mould with a shallower angle or broader support at its centre. Drape over this first, then use the steeper mould as the second draping mould. This makes the balance less critical.

The idea of supporting the glass is the key to doing this kind of slump that seems to require an impossible balancing act, if it is to be done in one go. Place kiln washed kiln furniture at the edges of the otherwise unsupported glass. Fire the kiln, but watch until the glass begins to slump. Then reach in with a wet stick and knock the kiln furniture aside to allow the glass to continue its slump and conform to the mould shape.

The lower temperature you use to do the draping and the slower your rate of increase is, the less the glass will be less marked by the mould. Frequent brief visual inspection during the drape is vital.

Also have a look at a suggestion for the kind of firing required for this here.

Schedules for Steep Drapes

I have been asked for a schedule for draping in the context of a tip on steep straight sided drapes.

What you are trying to do with a steep drape is two things. One is to compensate for the heat sink that the glass is supported by, and the second is to compensate for the relative lack of weight at the outer edge of the glass.


The supported glass transmits its heat to the support, leaving it colder than the unsupported glass. This often leads to breakage due to heat shock at much lower temperatures and slower rates of increase than glass supported at its edges. My experience has shown that - contrary to what I recommend for other kinds of firings - a slow rise with short soaks at intervals up to the working temperature works best. The reason for these slow rises and soaks is to try to get the support and the glass to be as nearly as possible at the same temperature throughout the rise in temperature. The soaks help ensure the mould is gaining heat without taking it from the glass.

The other problem with steep drapes is that the edges of the glass begin to drop more quickly than the area between the support and the edge. This leads to the development of an arc that touches the mould side near the bottom before the glass between the edge and the and the support. Extended soak times are required to allow the glass to stretch out and flatten. If this is done at high temperatures, the glass will thin - possibly to the extent of separating.

So the requirements for a firing schedule on this kind of drape are slow increases in temperature with soaks to avoid thermal shock, and an extended soak at the (low) forming temperature.

Whether using steel or ceramic moulds, I use a slow rise in temperature to 100C with a soak of 15 minutes. I then increase the rate of rise by 50% for the next 100C and give a 15 minute soak there. For the next 200C I raise the temperature at twice the original temperature rise, again with a 15 minute soak. The glass and mould should now be at 400C. This is still at the point where the glass could be heat shocked, so I only increase to 2.5 times the original rise rate but use this rate all the way to forming temperature.

Each kiln has its own characteristics, so giving schedules is problematic. 

•  A side fired kiln will need slower heat rises than a top fired one. 
• The closer the glass is to the elements, the slower the rate of increase needs to be. 
• The kind of energy input - electric or gas - has an effect. 
• The thickness of the glass is also a factor in considering what rate to use. 
•  The size of the glass in relation to the size of the support is important - the greater the differential, the slower the heat rise should be. 

So in making a suggestion on heat rises, it is only a starting point to think about what you are doing and why you are doing in this way.

I have usually done this kind of draping in top fired electric kilns where the elements are about 250mm above the shelf, and about 120mm apart. In the case of a 6mm thick piece about three times the size of the support area, I use 50C/hr as my starting point. This is one third of my usual rate of temperature rise. However you must watch to see what is happening, so that you can make adjustments. You should observe at each of the soaks, so you know how the glass is behaving. It will also help you to pinpoint the temperature range or rate of advance that may be leading to any breakages.

On steep slumps, the temptation is to use a high temperature to complete the drape. This is a mistake as the glass will be more heavily marked and tends toward excessive stretching and thinning. What you really need is a slow rate of advance to a relatively low temperature. If you normally slump at about 677C, then you want to do this steep, straight sided drape at 630C or less. It will need a long soak - maybe up to an hour. It will also need frequent observation to determine how the drape is progressing. So plan the time to make yourself available during this forming soak.

Annealing is done as normal, since the mould and glass are more closely together and will cool at the same rate.

The original tip on the set up of a steep straight sided slump is here.

Glueing Glass Pieces

The best solution is to avoid the use of glue completely. If you cannot, use as little as possible and make sure it burns out cleanly.

The glues to which kiln workers have normal access, do not survive to tack fusing temperatures. Therefore they can only be considered as a means to get the glass assembly to the kiln. The glue will not hold the pieces in place until the glass begins to stick, so the pieces must have a stable placement. If not, the pieces will slip, roll and move once the glue has burned out.

The second requirement of glues is that they burn out without leaving a residue.

Glues that have been used with little or no residue include:

Powdered CMC that can be disolved in warm water

-CMC (carbylmethylcellulose). It is a cellulose based binder used in a wide variety of industries, including food. For our purposes, it is also used in the ceramics industry and is often called glaze binder. It is a main constituent of "glas tac" from Bullseye. This can be made up into a viscous solution to catch and hold frits and other sprinkled elements in place.

- PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) is water-based glue. It is sometimes known as school glue. It can be diluted to about 10parts water to 1 part PVA. This is sufficient to hold the glass pieces together with only a drop for each piece of glass. It does not work so well for small sprinkled elements.

One of many brands of  Ethyl Cyanoacrylate
 glue

- Super glue burns off with no concerns about cyanide. It should be used sparingly and also works best for pieces of glass.

One of many hair laquers in pump spray bottles

- Hair lacquer is normally applied as drops at the edges of the assembled pieces and so can be used to hold pieces of glass as well as sprinkled elements.

In all uses of glue the principles to remember are:
- Use the minimum to hold pieces together while getting the work into the kiln.
- Put the glue at the edges of the glass or where its combustion gasses can escape easily.
- And in all cases, you need to test to see if a residue is left on the glass at full fuse when using a new glue.

An alternative to glue is frit as described here.

Approximate Temperature Characteristics of Various Glasses

Various glasses have different temperature characteristics. This listing is an attempt to indicate the differences between a variety of popular glasses used in kiln forming. They are not necessarily exact, but do give an indication of differences.

Bullseye Transparents
Full fusing 832C
Tack fusing 777C
Softening 677C
Annealing 532C
Strain point 493C

Bullseye Opalescents
Full fusing 843C
Tack fusing 788C
Softening 688C
Annealing 502C
Strain point 463C

Bullseye Gold Bearing Glasses
Full fusing 788C
Tack fusing 732C
Softening 632C
Annealing 472C
Strain point 438C

Desag GNA
Full fusing 857C
Tack fusing 802C
Softening 718C
Annealing 530C
Strain point 454C

Float Glass
Full fusing 835C
Tack fusing 760C
Softening 720C
Annealing 530C
Strain point 454C

Oceanside
Full fusing 788C
Tack fusing 718C
Softening 677C
Annealing 510C
Strain point 371C

Wasser
Full fusing 816C
Tack fusing 760C
Softening 670C
Annealing 510C
Strain point 343C

Wissmach 90
full fusing  777C
Tack fusing
Softening  688C
Annealing  510C
Strain point

Wissmach 96
Full fusing  777C
Tack fusing
Softening  688C
Annealing  510C
Strain point

Youghiogheny 96
Full fusing  773C
Tack fusing  725C
Softening  662C
Annealing  510C
Strain point

Viscosity Changes with Temperature

This image is taken from Pate de Verre and Kiln Casting of Glass, by Jim Kervin and Dan Fenton, Glass Wear Studios, 2002, p.27.

It shows in graphic form how the viscosity of glass decreases with increases in temperature. The temperatures are given in Fahrenheit.  

The coefficient of expansion also changes with temperature. 

This graph is also from Kervin and Fenton

 It is these two forces of viscosity and expansion that must be balanced around the annealing point to give a stable and compatible range of fusing glass.

Drop Rings

Mould

It is possible to purchase drop rings of various sizes. It is also easy to construct one from vermiculite board or ceramic fibre board. Merely cut a circle of the desired radius from the board. Leave at least 50mm of board outside the circle, and more for thinner boards.

Kiln wash the top and inner sides of the drop ring

Glass

The glass should be larger than the hole in the ring. This will vary by radius of the hole. The glass will need to be from 50mm larger diameter than the hole for smaller holes to 100mm larger diameter for holes over 300mm.

Glass should be at least 6mm thick for the first 100mm of drop and an additional 3mm for each 50mm more. So, a drop of 200mm would require glass of 12mm thick


Temperatures

The temperature rise should be no more than 150C per hour to about 675C for 6mm glass and less for thicker glass. Remember the glass is much closer to the elements than normal and it is easy to thermal shock the glass.

With close inspection you can see that the edge of the glass rises from the mould as it sinks in the middle.

The outside edges of the glass rise from the mould as the centre begins to drop in the centre.  As the glass gets hotter, this raised edge settles back on to the mould.  If the glass is really near the elements, there is a small risk the glass will touch the elements.  No harm will be done to the kiln, but the glass edge may have some needles.

The rate and amount of slumping is controlled by temperature, span (the width of unsupported glass on the mould) and time. The higher the temperature the faster a piece will slump and the thinner the walls will be. However you can slump at lower temperatures by holding the temperature for a longer time to reduce the thinning of the sides.

Also note that the wider the span, the faster the glass slumps.

If you slump at high temperatures with a drop ring the sides of the bowl tend to be straight and steep. The strain is limited to the region immediately inside the rim. Therefore the glass tends to thin next to the rim and the colours are diluted. If you slump at a lower temperature for a longer period of time the strain is distributed over the entire unsupported area. This results in a more rounded shape for the bowl and even thickness of the glass across the bottom of the bowl.


Experiment

Finding the right combination of time and temperature requires a bit of experience and guess work. If you want a rounded bottom, heat the glass to the point that it starts to bend on the mould and wait for 30 minutes. If it has slumped about 1 inch in that time wait another 30 minutes. You are looking for a slumping rate that is acceptable. If it hasn't moved very much then increase the temperature 15C and check again in 15 minutes. Keep moving temp up and waiting for 15 minutes until the piece has completely slumped. This might take several hours.

If you want straight sides keep heating the piece rapidly.

Stopping
When the piece has slumped to the desired shape, flash cool the kiln to about 30C above the annealing point to stop movement in the glass. Extend the annealing soak and increase the length of the annealing cool time (reduce the rate of temperature fall) over normal slump firings of the same thickness.

Glass falls through drop rings in relation to the size of the glass on the drop ring, the size of the opening, the temperature rise rate and to some extent the colours and amount of opalescent glass used. 

Wire for Fusing

Although there are other ways to combine wire with glass, one popular method involves fusing wire inside the glass. This technique generally fuses and seals the wire between two layers of glass, so it is important to select a wire with the right characteristics. The main characteristics are:

1. The wire must be capable of withstanding the heat of the kiln.

2. The wire must emerge from the kiln in a relatively pristine condition, or at least can be easily cleaned.

3. The wire must also retain the desired flexibility and pliability. If it's too soft or brittle it may not support the piece.

4. The wire must not react with or contaminate the glass. In most cases colour changes and metal flakes are not desirable.

5. The wire must be of a small enough diameter to avoid causing excessive stress within the glass.

6. It is a bonus if the wire is reasonably priced or even inexpensive.

This post gives the characteristics of some types of wire for fusing. 

Types of Wire for Fusing

Having mentioned the characteristics needed of the wires for inclusion, this is a description of the good and bad points of some common wires used as inclusions within glass.

Nichrome (nickel chromium) is a generally favoured wire, due to it easy workability, ability to hold up in the kiln and maintain its strength afterwards. It does turn dull after firing, but can be cleaned up with a brass wire brush.

Copper is a softer wire to use, and exposed parts tend to be weakened. It may tarnish or change colour. Some twisted/braided copper can work better than single strand copper, but test first.

Sterling silver will work, but tends to scale and needs to be cleaned after firing. It can react with the glass and change colour. It tends to be soft after firing.

Fine (pure) silver works better than sterling, but even more prone to react with the glass - turning yellow. Some glasses (French vanilla and certain reds) will also change colour when exposed to silver.

Stainless steel is very stiff and hard to work with, but can be fused if desired. It retains its strength and if of the appropriate grade requires only treatment with a brass wire brush.

Gold or platinum wires will work, but are very expensive.

Damming Ovals

There are various ways of damming oval shapes in kiln forming. Some of these are outlined here.

One set of methods depends on having a soft surface such as ceramic Fibre board or vermiculite.

Photo from Clearwater Studio

You can wrap your shape with fibre paper. For this you need to cut a strip or strips 3mm narrower than the height of the piece you are wrapping. You then stick sewing pins down through the fibre paper and into the shelf of fibre board or vermiculite. This will be easiest if you use 1 to 3mm thick fibre paper, as the pins must not contact the glass – the pins will stick to the glass if they do.

You can cut a form out of ceramic fibre board and use that as a dam. You can pin this to the base fibre board or allow it to merely rest on the board. It is possible to cut arcs from fibre board and place them around in sections. In this case they will need to be pinned together so they do not move apart. Staples can form the attachments. You can make your own – larger – ones from copper wire.

You can buy stainless steel banding which needs to be lined with any separator – batt wash or fibre paper.

Bonny Doon stainless steel dams

You also can layer fibre paper up to the height required – remember 3mm less than the thickness of the piece. You then need to fasten the layers together to avoid movement between the layers.


If you are firing on ceramic kiln shelves the same materials can be used but need to be supported a little differently.

If you are wrapping the piece on mullite shelves, use some pieces of kiln furniture to block the strips up against the glass. The thicker the glass, the more weight will be pushing out against the dams and the sturdier the dams will need to be. Make sure the strips contact the shelf evenly- if you have gaps, you'll have leaks.

The disadvantage to this method is that the glass can take up the irregularities of the kiln furniture.

You can use fibre board with a void cut out to the shape required and place it on the shelf.

You can also use layers of fiber paper around the shape and pin the layers to each other. This is the same method as used on ceramic fibre board.

Again stainless steel can be used to form the dam. Remember to line the steel with fibre paper that is 3mm narrower than the height of the piece.



In all these cases of dammed forms, the edges will be of varying degrees of roughness and some cold working will be required.

Slow and Low

Low and Slow Approach to Kilnforming

We are often impatient in firing our pieces and fire much more quickly than we need. After all, our computerised controllers will look after the firing overnight. So there is no need to hurry more than that.

The concept of heat work is essential to understanding why the slow and low method of firing works. Glass is a poor conductor of heat which leads to many of our problems with quick firings. The main one is stressing the glass so much by the temperature differential between the top and the bottom that the glass breaks. We need to get heat into the whole mass of the glass as evenly and with as smooth a temperature gradient as possible. If we can do that, the kiln forming processes work much better. If you add the heat to the glass quickly, you need to go to a higher temperature to achieve the desired result than if you add the heat more slowly to allow the heat to permeate the whole thickness of the piece.

Graphs of the difference (blue line) between upper and lower surfaces of glass of different thicknesses against cooling time

However, this slower heating means that the glass at the bottom has absorbed the required heat at a lower temperature than in a fast heat. This in turn means that you do not need to go to such a high heat. This has a significant advantage in forming the glass, as the lower temperature required to achieve the shape means that the bottom of the glass is less marked. The glass will have less chance of stress at the annealing stage of the kiln forming process as it will be of a more equal temperature even before the temperature equalisation process begins at the annealing soak temperature.

Applying the principles of low and slow means:

• heat is added evenly to the whole thickness of the piece
• there is a reduction in risk of thermal shock
• the glass will achieve the desired effect at a reduced temperature

The alternative - quick ramps with soaks – leads to a range of difficulties:

• The introduction of heat differentials within the glass. Bullseye research shows that on cooling, a heat difference of greater than 5ºC between the internal and external parts of glass lead to stresses that cannot be resolved without re-heating to above the annealing point with a significant soak to once again equalise the heat throughout the piece.
• It does not save much if any time, As the glass reacts better to a steady introduction of heat. Merely slowing the rate to occupy the same amount of time as the ramp and soak together occupy, will lead to fewer problems.
• It can soften some parts more quickly than others, e.g., edges soften and stick trapping air.
• Quick heating, with “catch up” soaks, of a piece with different types and colours of glass is more likely to cause problems of shock, bubbles, and uneven forming.
• Pieces with uneven thicknesses, such as those intended for tack fusing, will have significant differences in temperature at the bottom.
• Rapid heating with soaks during slumping and draping processes can cause uneven slumps through colour or thickness differences, or even a tear in the bottom because the top is so much more plastic than the bottom.

However there are occasions where soaks during the initial advance in heat are useful:

• for really thick glass,
• For multiple - 3 or more - layers of glass,
• for glass on difficult moulds,
• for glass supported at a single internal point with other glass free from contact with mould as on many drapes.

Of course, if you are doing small or jewellery scale work, then you can ignore these principles as the heat is gained relatively easily. It is only when you increase the scale that these principles will have an obvious effect.

Slow, gradual input of heat to glass leads to the ability to fire at lower temperatures to achieve the desired results, with less marking and less risk of breaking.

Further information is available in the ebook Low Temperature Kiln Forming.

Freeze and Fuse

"Freeze and fuse" is a term devised to describe a technique to obtain complex edge shapes and some bas relief.

The basic method is as follows, although there are a number of variations that can be successfully adopted.

Mix enough water with fine frit to make a damp slurry.

Then place about 3mm into your mould and tap on a hard surface. Tap quite vigorously to bring any air bubbles to the top and compact your powder.

Use a paper towel at this point and blot off any water that has risen to the surface.

Continue to layer, tap and blot until you're level with the top of the mould.

The more you tap and blot out any water (and every time you tap, more will rise to the top) the better your results will be.

When your paper towel won't absorb any more water, you're ready to put your mould into the freezer. One to three hours should be enough, but it must be frozen throughout.

Take the frozen glass from the mould. Letting it sit while you programme the kiln will allow it to come from the mould more easily. Place the glass form on the kiln shelf. Raise the temperature as fast as you like to 90C. Soak there for at least half an hour to remove any water in the piece. Then raise the temperature at about 100C/hour (depending on the thickness and size of the glass form) to a low fire polishing or sintering temperature (about 720C to 740C). Higher temperatures will flatten the form and change its shape. Soak at this sintering temperature for an hour or so.  Check on the progress of the firing by peeking at 10 minute intervals and advance to the next segment of the schedule when  the surface begins to shine.  

If you are planning another firing, you should not fire beyond the first hint of a shine appearing.

Some experimentation is required to get the best combination of rate, time and temperature.

Experience will show you variations on this basic method.

Further information is available in the ebook Low Temperature Kiln Forming.

Orientation of Iridised Glass

Iridised Glass – Which Side Up?

“One rule in using iridised glass is iridised down to fuse, up to slump”

You need to understand the conditions for the “rule" before applying it. Bullseye iridescent and Spectrum System 96 (made by the Uroboros method - not the stained glass) iridescent are not temperature sensitive in the way the other fusing ranges are. Both Bullseye and System 96 can be fired face up.  It is not yet (June 2019) known how Oceanside fusing compatible iridescent will perform when it becomes available.

The Wissmach luminescent and the other fusing glasses seem to be more temperature sensitive and so need to be fused iridised side down.  Avoid using Bullseye Thinfire in contact with the iridescence, as it sometimes reacts with the iridescence and creates pits in the glass.

Use the lowest practical temperature when forming with the luminescent face up. This avoids the partial or complete disappearance of the metal film that creates the iridescence.

More information on what causes the iridescence.

http://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/06/iridescence.html

Slumping unknown glasses

I had a recent request for help from an old friend who has taken up kiln formed glass. The problem is common enough, that (with her permission) I am adding it to the tips section.

I tried an experiment today to use some of my nice (non-fusing) glass. I cut at 270 mm diameter circle from a 3mm thick sheet and wanted to slump it into my 270 mm bowl mold. I set the mold up carefully and checked it was dead level in all directions and that the glass was absolutely centered on it. I have no idea what the COE is so decided just to use the S96 recommended slumping temperature of 650C. When I checked the kiln no more than 2 minutes after it had reached 665C, the glass had slumped almost to the bottom of the mold but it had slumped very asymmetrically. There was also a small burp on one side which has never been an issue when slumping bowls in this mold before.

The schedule I used was as follows:
200C/hour to 540C, 0 hold
650C/hour to 665C, 10 hold
Then standard S96 anneal programme

Also, the edges were still a bit rough from the cutting, i.e., they hadn‘t fire polished at all. Can you help?

Finding out about the softening characteristics of the glass

Slumping a single layer of glass with unknown characteristics – the CoE is not really relevant – requires that you watch it and other similar ones until you have established a slump temperature for the glass.

There is a way to do it:
Cut a piece of glass 305mm long by 20mm wide. Support it 25mm above the kiln shelf with the posts being 290mm apart. Put kiln furniture on top of the glass where it is supported. Make sure you can see the shelf just under the middle of the suspended glass when you are setting up this test. You can put a piece of wire or other dark element there on the floor of the kiln to help you see when the glass touches down.

Set the kiln to fire at 100C/hour to about 680C. Peek at the suspended glass every 5-10 minutes after 560C to see when the glass begins to move. Then watch more frequently. If your kiln has an alert mode on it, you could set it to ring at each 5C increase in temperature, otherwise use an alarm that has a snooze function to make sure you keep looking. When the glass touches down to the witness sitting on the shelf, record the temperature. This will approximate the slumping temperature in a simple ball curve mould.


Getting smooth edges

You need to have smooth edges before slumping. You can fire polish the piece of glass to get rounded edges, or you can cold work the edges with diamond hand pads, working from the roughest to the finest you have available. If that does not give you the edge you want, you will need to fire polish before you try to slump.

You can do at least two things to find the fire polish temperature. You can do a little experiment by using the cut off pieces of the glass and roughing them up a little before putting in the kiln. Make sure you can see it through the peep hole(s). Set the kiln to fire at about 250C to say 750C. Look in from about 700C to determine when the edges begin to round.

The other is to put a strip of the same glass in with the slump test and set the kiln to go up to 750C rather than just 680C. You can check on progress just as for the separate firing to determine the fire polish temperature. I think about 40C above slump temperature should be enough, but your test will determine that.


Avoiding uneven slumps

Most uneven slumps occur because of too fast a rate of increase in temperature. The piece can hang up on the mould sometimes causing the glass elsewhere to slide down to compensate. The real difficulty in the schedule was the 650C/hour rate up to the top temperature. This was so fast that the glass at the edges would have the opportunity to soften and so hang before the centre was soft enough to begin to bend. 150C / hour would be fast enough from 540C to achieve the slump.  In fact, 150C/hour all the way to the slumping temperature would be fast enough.  The glass reacts well to a steady input of heat rather than rapid rises, even with soaks at intervals on the way up.

Other things can be done too. You mentioned the edges were rough from the cutting. This can cause difficulties of hanging. To avoid that, you should smooth the edges before placing the glass on the mould. A further precaution against uneven slumping is to give a slight bevel to the bottom edge so that it can slip more easily along the mould.

You had already done the leveling of the mould and the centralization of the glass on the mould. These are two other things that can cause uneven slumps.


Avoiding “burps”

The glass slipping a long way down the mould is often accompanied with burps or bubble like up-wellings. These are both indications of too high a temperature being used to slump. I would begin looking at the glass from about 600C in the slumping of any unknown piece of glass. That would apply to any new configuration of the glass or mould too. The fact that the glass slid to the bottom and had a burp means that the temperature was too high and too fast. Once you have established the lowest slumping temperature, by watching to see when it begins, you then can add about 30 minutes soak to that temperature. The length of this soak will have to be determined by observation and experience, though.

A slow heating allows the glass to be at an even temperature throughout its thickness. A rapid rise with a thick piece will sometimes reveal a tear like opening on the underside of the glass that does not come through to the top. This is because the upper surface is sufficiently hot to begin slumping while the bottom is just a little too cool. If there is too great a difference, the glass just breaks all the way through.

Also slow heating allows the slump to be accomplished at a lower temperature, leading to fewer problems and to less texture being taken up from the mould.

More detailed information is available in the e-book: Low Temperature Kilnforming.

Sand Beds for Kilns

Sand beds can be used for shaping directly into the sand or as a bed for a large kiln to avoid having to place a number of shelves together and patch cracks. It also saves on the purchase of a large shelf, at the expense of some labour before each firing.

Mix (by weight)The mix is largely sand with powders to coat the sand particles to reduce the amount of sticking to glass. The mix ranges from 75% sand 25% alumina hydrate, up to 67% sand, 33% alumina. The proportions can be adjusted by experience.

Some kiln formers include plaster or china clay (kaolin) in various proportions so the whole mix can range from 70% sand, 25% alumina, 5% plaster/kaolin up to 60% sand, 20% each alumina and plaster/kaolin. Some have found that the plaster started to scum up the glass after a number of firings, and this can happen with china clay too.

UseThe use of sand as the bed of the kiln requires screeding of the sand before each firing. It is possible to smooth the sand with a plaster’s float. This presses the sand down and allows a fine film of powder to coat the surface. A more certain way of avoiding the sand sticking to or texturing the glass is to lay fibre paper over the sand.

You should be aware that a sand bed requires a little different cooling than glass on a suspended shelf does. Effectively you are cooling the glass on the bed of the kiln. Thus, you should use annealing and cooling schedules for one or two thicknesses more than is actually being fired to be really safe.

Sand formingIf you are using the sand for mild shaping, sprinkle alumina hydrate over formed sand to reduce sand particle take up and textures onto the glass.

Renew sand regularly if you are using powders on the sand. An annual renewal using half the old sand mix and the rest new will be sufficient in most cases. The effect of too much powder is to promote large bubbles as air cannot move through the sand with the same ease as when there is less powder. An easy way to tell if you have too much powder is that the mix flows ahead as you screed it.

Revised 22/6/19