There are lots of ways people use to keep marks on the glass while grinding.
Paint markers will stand up to a lot of water if allowed to dry before being taken to the grinder.
Covering the marker line with Vaseline or lip salve will preserve the line longer.
Sticking down a water proof pattern piece on the glass will allow grinding up to the edges of the pattern piece without it breaking down. But of course, it can be ground away or pushed aside by the grinding head.
All these methods assume that there is a lot of grinding needed.
If you cut accurately, only a small amount of grinding will be needed and permanent felt tip/marker on glass lasts long enough to do the job.
Showing posts with label Copper Foil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Copper Foil. Show all posts
Tuesday 4 May 2010
Monday 14 December 2009
Tack Soldering
Tack soldering is the placing of a small amount of solder on the foil to hold two or more pieces together, so the main soldering can be performed without disturbing any placing of the remaining pieces.
The advantage of tack soldering is it can allow you to completely eliminate framing. You can just hold two pieces together with one hand and spot a dab of solder to hold them together. You don't have to do this for all pieces - just enough of the outside pieces to hold the whole project together. Once you've tack soldered, everything will be held in place and you can just run the beads without further considering the placing of the pieces.
For free form shapes, tack soldering is always quicker. You may want to use nails or tacks to hold all the glass in place while you tack solder.
With big foil projects or ones that have to fit into a predetermined dimension, tack soldering ensures there is no growth through movement of the pieces.
It's a quick way to avoid having to fiddle with each piece to make sure each is exactly lined up before starting with the running of the beads.
The advantage of tack soldering is it can allow you to completely eliminate framing. You can just hold two pieces together with one hand and spot a dab of solder to hold them together. You don't have to do this for all pieces - just enough of the outside pieces to hold the whole project together. Once you've tack soldered, everything will be held in place and you can just run the beads without further considering the placing of the pieces.
For free form shapes, tack soldering is always quicker. You may want to use nails or tacks to hold all the glass in place while you tack solder.
With big foil projects or ones that have to fit into a predetermined dimension, tack soldering ensures there is no growth through movement of the pieces.
It's a quick way to avoid having to fiddle with each piece to make sure each is exactly lined up before starting with the running of the beads.
Tuesday 8 December 2009
Even Solder Beads on Edges
Running an even bead on the edges of copper foiled projects is often difficult. Several things can help.
Hold the panel vertically and ensure the edge you are applying solder to is horizontal. This means that you have to keep moving anything that is not rectangular.
To apply solder and move the piece ideally needs three hands – one for the solder, one for the iron, and one to manipulate the piece. Failing such an evolutionary leap, you can use a small vice to continually alter the angle of the edge, you can get a friend or colleague to manipulate the panel, or you can place the solder so that you can pick up little drops of solder and place them on the edge. With practice, you can pick up some solder and transfer it to the edge before the previous dot of solder has cooled, so leaving a smooth bead by the joining of the dots.
Alternatively, you can place dots of solder near each other around the piece. You then come back and with one hand manipulating the piece the other can use the solderimg iron to heat and join the dots.
You do have to be careful that you do not move the panel before the solder has hardened, or it will run down the newly created slope to the new horizontal edge.
I find that it is much more difficult to run a bead on an edge than it is to “pat” the solder dots. This patting motion allows the solder to join together, but does not heat such a long line that it flows as you turn the piece to keep the edge currently being soldered horizontal.
Hold the panel vertically and ensure the edge you are applying solder to is horizontal. This means that you have to keep moving anything that is not rectangular.
To apply solder and move the piece ideally needs three hands – one for the solder, one for the iron, and one to manipulate the piece. Failing such an evolutionary leap, you can use a small vice to continually alter the angle of the edge, you can get a friend or colleague to manipulate the panel, or you can place the solder so that you can pick up little drops of solder and place them on the edge. With practice, you can pick up some solder and transfer it to the edge before the previous dot of solder has cooled, so leaving a smooth bead by the joining of the dots.
Alternatively, you can place dots of solder near each other around the piece. You then come back and with one hand manipulating the piece the other can use the solderimg iron to heat and join the dots.
You do have to be careful that you do not move the panel before the solder has hardened, or it will run down the newly created slope to the new horizontal edge.
I find that it is much more difficult to run a bead on an edge than it is to “pat” the solder dots. This patting motion allows the solder to join together, but does not heat such a long line that it flows as you turn the piece to keep the edge currently being soldered horizontal.
Saturday 5 December 2009
Even Solder Beads
Getting even solder beads is a lot about where you look while you solder. Unlike drawing or cycling looking at where you are going is not so useful when soldering. You need to see the effects of what you are doing so looking behind the solder bit will help you understand what you are doing. If the bead begins to get small or narrow you either slow down the forward movement of the solder bit or add solder to it more quickly. If the bead begins to get too thick, you do the opposite. You can move the bit faster, or reduce the speed of feeding the solder to the bit.
Another element in getting an even bead is the heat being delivered. If you use a wide soldering bit you are delivering more heat to the joint. You hold the chisel bit so that it runs along the foil. The bigger the bit, the more heat is being held. And the more heat held in the bit, the more heat is applied to the soldering. Small bits are for getting into tight spots and for decorative soldering. Big wide bits are best for running beads.
Another element in getting an even bead is the heat being delivered. If you use a wide soldering bit you are delivering more heat to the joint. You hold the chisel bit so that it runs along the foil. The bigger the bit, the more heat is being held. And the more heat held in the bit, the more heat is applied to the soldering. Small bits are for getting into tight spots and for decorative soldering. Big wide bits are best for running beads.
Friday 28 August 2009
Foil Lifting While Soldering
There are several possible reasons for this.
The main one is that the soldering is too slow. This causes the adhesive on the foil to fail before the solder has a chance to become rigid.
The foil may not have stuck to the glass firmly. Reasons for this are many, but some are:
- Dirty glass. Make sure the glass is washed and polished clean, especially if you have been grinding, when you need to get all the glass dust out of the pits on the edges.
- Oils from your hands. The oils can be natural or from hand creams. If you have oily skin or need to use hand creams consider cotton gloves for use when handling the glass prior to and during foiling.
- Inadequate contact between the foil and the glass. This can be from both the above, but can also be that the foil was not pressed firmly to all the sides and edges of the glass pieces.
The foil adhesive may be inadequate through manufacture or age. If a test piece does not feel tacky to your finger tips, it is not going to stick to the glass very well.
The main one is that the soldering is too slow. This causes the adhesive on the foil to fail before the solder has a chance to become rigid.
The foil may not have stuck to the glass firmly. Reasons for this are many, but some are:
- Dirty glass. Make sure the glass is washed and polished clean, especially if you have been grinding, when you need to get all the glass dust out of the pits on the edges.
- Oils from your hands. The oils can be natural or from hand creams. If you have oily skin or need to use hand creams consider cotton gloves for use when handling the glass prior to and during foiling.
- Inadequate contact between the foil and the glass. This can be from both the above, but can also be that the foil was not pressed firmly to all the sides and edges of the glass pieces.
The foil adhesive may be inadequate through manufacture or age. If a test piece does not feel tacky to your finger tips, it is not going to stick to the glass very well.
Monday 24 August 2009
Grinding for Copper Foil
It is often thought that every piece of glass has to be ground to enable the foil to stick well to it. There are conflicting views about this. I am firmly on the side of not grinding. The impact adhesive on the back of the foil is thin and will not fill the depressions caused by grinding. It will adhere to a smooth surface more strongly than a rough one. Remember the purpose of the foil is to provide a surface to carry the solder. It keeps the foil in place until the solder bead is completed on both sides. It is not a permanent adhesive. So some of the discussion about which surface is best is academic.
There are ways of obtaining clean cuts that help avoid the need to grind.
Score with an even pressure. This helps the glass break clean with few shells or chips. If there are any overhangs, you can eliminate them with a quick wipe of the edge of the cut piece on the waste piece.
Ensure you hold your cutter vertically. This will encourage the break to be at right angles to the surface giving a clean smooth cut face.
The only NEED for grinding is to adjust an inaccurate cut. We all make inaccurate cuts from time to time.
There are ways of obtaining clean cuts that help avoid the need to grind.
Score with an even pressure. This helps the glass break clean with few shells or chips. If there are any overhangs, you can eliminate them with a quick wipe of the edge of the cut piece on the waste piece.
Ensure you hold your cutter vertically. This will encourage the break to be at right angles to the surface giving a clean smooth cut face.
The only NEED for grinding is to adjust an inaccurate cut. We all make inaccurate cuts from time to time.
Friday 21 August 2009
Copper Foil Oxidisation
Protection of foiled pieces from oxidisation
If foiled pieces are going to sit a while before soldering, put them in a sealed plastic bag with the air squeezed out. This will prolong the time before the oxidization becomes a problem for the soldering process.
Another possibility is to tin all the pieces before putting them away in the plastic bag. Solder oxidizes more slowly than copper does.
If foiled pieces are going to sit a while before soldering, put them in a sealed plastic bag with the air squeezed out. This will prolong the time before the oxidization becomes a problem for the soldering process.
Another possibility is to tin all the pieces before putting them away in the plastic bag. Solder oxidizes more slowly than copper does.
Tuesday 11 August 2009
Oxidized Copper Foiled Pieces
If copper foiled pieces sit out for any length of time after foiling they will oxidize. This means that the solder will not stick to the foil, as it requires a clean surface to attach to.
Clean the foiled pieces with fine steel wool, pot scrubber or flexible mild abrasive. Make sure you do not damage the foil or pull it up from the glass during this process. It is likely that the adhesive holding the foil to the glass is not as strong as it once was.
I do not recommend using a stronger flux to overcome the oxidisation, as this is often highly acidic and may damage the glass.
Once cleaned, you can flux the foil and proceed as normal.
Clean the foiled pieces with fine steel wool, pot scrubber or flexible mild abrasive. Make sure you do not damage the foil or pull it up from the glass during this process. It is likely that the adhesive holding the foil to the glass is not as strong as it once was.
I do not recommend using a stronger flux to overcome the oxidisation, as this is often highly acidic and may damage the glass.
Once cleaned, you can flux the foil and proceed as normal.
Monday 13 July 2009
Lead and Copper Foil in the Same Panel
It is possible to combine copper foil in a leaded glass panel.
The copper foiled piece should be soldered before inserting it into the lead came. In this way the soldered together pieces become very like another piece of glass.
There are some special considerations, of course.
The copper foiled piece should be designed as though it were a single piece of glass and so can be accommodated into the surrounding pieces of glass. Copper foiled piece should not have severe undercuts which would make it difficult to insert into the surrounding glass. It may be necessary to incorporate a piece of the surrounding colour to make it fit into the panel.
The copper foiled piece should be finished with all the beads on both sides. If one side is left flat, it will collect water if on the outside, and catch on any cleaning processes whichever side it is on. However, the piece should be tinned only on the outer edges. This will ensure that the copper foiled piece will slip into the came.
The image below illustrates a copper foiled piece incorporated into a leaded panel.
This section of the panel shows the accommodation of the main leaded panel with the copper foiled piece with a line from a petal to a leaf. Otherwise, it was fitted as one piece.
Monday 25 May 2009
Water Proofing of Pattern Pieces
Many people put their pattern pieces onto the glass they are going to grind, or saw to attempt to get a good fit to the cartoon. The water from the grinder makes paper templates soggy and liable to tear or disintegrate so failing to for a good guide to grinding.
One solution is to stick self adhesive plastic on top of the pattern before you cut it all apart. Then you have some protection when you grind. The plastic sticks to the surface of the paper and resists the water. However, the water can seep between the glass and the unprotected bottom of the paper or, even if protected with plastic on both sided, through the exposed edge.
You can spray or apply clear lacquer on the paper pattern pieces before attaching them to the glass and grinding. This has slightly better results as the edge is most often sealed better than with two layers of plastic.
You can use clear acetate film (ca. 0.2mm thick) as a completely water resistant pattern. Cut your pattern pieces from the acetate film and stick them on to the glass with blutack or any other gum based adhesive. This works well and does not suffer from the water deteriorating the pattern piece.
One solution is to stick self adhesive plastic on top of the pattern before you cut it all apart. Then you have some protection when you grind. The plastic sticks to the surface of the paper and resists the water. However, the water can seep between the glass and the unprotected bottom of the paper or, even if protected with plastic on both sided, through the exposed edge.
You can spray or apply clear lacquer on the paper pattern pieces before attaching them to the glass and grinding. This has slightly better results as the edge is most often sealed better than with two layers of plastic.
You can use clear acetate film (ca. 0.2mm thick) as a completely water resistant pattern. Cut your pattern pieces from the acetate film and stick them on to the glass with blutack or any other gum based adhesive. This works well and does not suffer from the water deteriorating the pattern piece.
Thursday 30 April 2009
Finger Protection While Grinding
Various methods of protection are used:
Finger stalls,
Taped fingers,
Altering the fingers used to press the glass to the grinding bit,
Gloves – but they have to very tight fitting to avoid getting caught in the spinning bit.
Duct tape,
Grinders' Mate.
Prevention
The sore fingers are usually caused by tiny cuts from the glass. So, all these methods are ways of putting something between the glass edges and your fingers. More importantly, you need to think about your practice if you are getting sore fingers while grinding.
The first thing is just to lightly grind all the way around the piece first. This can be quick, and should use minimum pressure. This will remove any sharp edges.
If you have to press hard to achieve the effect you want, it may be that your grinder bit is badly worn. It may also be that you need to have a coarser bit to achieve the amount of grinding that you need.
You should not be pressing hard in any case. This will wear out bearings on the motor and reduce the life of the bit. You should use medium pressure and allow the diamonds on the grinding bit to do the work. Fine work requires a fine grit, removing a lot of glass requires a coarse bit, not more pressure.
If you have to remove large amounts of glass, you need to review the accuracy of your cutting. You should not be relying on the grinder to do more than tidy your cuts.
Remedies
There are several remedies to relieve the soreness:
Cucumber melon antibacterial hand lotion
Vitamin E.
Tea tree oil
Germolene
Finger stalls,
Taped fingers,
Altering the fingers used to press the glass to the grinding bit,
Gloves – but they have to very tight fitting to avoid getting caught in the spinning bit.
Duct tape,
Grinders' Mate.
Prevention
The sore fingers are usually caused by tiny cuts from the glass. So, all these methods are ways of putting something between the glass edges and your fingers. More importantly, you need to think about your practice if you are getting sore fingers while grinding.
The first thing is just to lightly grind all the way around the piece first. This can be quick, and should use minimum pressure. This will remove any sharp edges.
If you have to press hard to achieve the effect you want, it may be that your grinder bit is badly worn. It may also be that you need to have a coarser bit to achieve the amount of grinding that you need.
You should not be pressing hard in any case. This will wear out bearings on the motor and reduce the life of the bit. You should use medium pressure and allow the diamonds on the grinding bit to do the work. Fine work requires a fine grit, removing a lot of glass requires a coarse bit, not more pressure.
If you have to remove large amounts of glass, you need to review the accuracy of your cutting. You should not be relying on the grinder to do more than tidy your cuts.
Remedies
There are several remedies to relieve the soreness:
Cucumber melon antibacterial hand lotion
Vitamin E.
Tea tree oil
Germolene
Monday 10 November 2008
Copper Foil vs. Lead
The copper foil technique may or may not have been invented by Tiffany, but he certainly used it extensively in his studio. Thus it is often referred to as the Tiffany method.
It is neither easier nor more difficult than lead. However, it’s significantly cleaner because it does not involve the use of whiting or cement, which is why this technique is most often taught to beginners in North America. In Europe leading is most often taught first.
Some people deduce that copper foil must be stronger than lead because the solder goes all the way around and between each piece, but lead is still the preferred method architecturally, holding up huge weight-bearing windows for hundreds of years.
One thing copper foil can do, though, is allow stained glass panels to curve, as you can see in the multitudes of Tiffany lampshades that are still around today.
There are a few other differences from lead in the construction of copper foil panels. First, copper foil is less forgiving in that there is no channel to hide errors in glass cuts. Precision in cutting becomes especially important.
However, while cutting may be a little more difficult, soldering foiled pieces is a little easier because you can’t burn through copper foil the way you can through lead. If you accidentally apply too much heat, the solder just drips through to other side and forms a ‘mushroom’ that must be cleaned up later. Or it cracks the glass.
Finally, lead panels are usually constructed from the corner out (pieces of wood form an “L” shape and the panel is started in that corner and grows up and out). Copper foil panels are usually started inside a (temporary) wood frame that goes all the way round the panel, like a picture frame. You don’t need to start in one particular spot because the pieces aren’t going to shift within their frame.
It is neither easier nor more difficult than lead. However, it’s significantly cleaner because it does not involve the use of whiting or cement, which is why this technique is most often taught to beginners in North America. In Europe leading is most often taught first.
Some people deduce that copper foil must be stronger than lead because the solder goes all the way around and between each piece, but lead is still the preferred method architecturally, holding up huge weight-bearing windows for hundreds of years.
One thing copper foil can do, though, is allow stained glass panels to curve, as you can see in the multitudes of Tiffany lampshades that are still around today.
There are a few other differences from lead in the construction of copper foil panels. First, copper foil is less forgiving in that there is no channel to hide errors in glass cuts. Precision in cutting becomes especially important.
However, while cutting may be a little more difficult, soldering foiled pieces is a little easier because you can’t burn through copper foil the way you can through lead. If you accidentally apply too much heat, the solder just drips through to other side and forms a ‘mushroom’ that must be cleaned up later. Or it cracks the glass.
Finally, lead panels are usually constructed from the corner out (pieces of wood form an “L” shape and the panel is started in that corner and grows up and out). Copper foil panels are usually started inside a (temporary) wood frame that goes all the way round the panel, like a picture frame. You don’t need to start in one particular spot because the pieces aren’t going to shift within their frame.
Friday 7 November 2008
Copper Foil Repairs
Repair or not
First consider whether any repairs should be carried out at all. Repairing can sometimes cause more damage, and if it is an older piece, finding an exact match may be impossible. So gluing may be the better approach.
If small shards of glass are missing, daylight is visible through the broken part, or sharp bits are exposed, then it should be repaired, assuming the client is willing to pay.
Starting the repair
Having decided to repair, the first action is to use fine steel wool to remove any patina from the solder around the broken pieces, on both sides.
Removing the broken glass
Next, work out the shards using a fine blade to get between the broken pieces. You should be wearing safety glasses during all the processes of getting the glass out of the piece.
In some cases in may be necessary to score the remaining part of the broken piece with your cutter in a criss-cross pattern, from edge to edge. Also try to go toward the centre of the piece from each corner while making the score lines.
Now start tapping the centre of the broken, scored piece of glass with the ball on the end of your cutter and then work out to the edges. Keep tapping the glass and it should start to fall out. When most of the glass in the middle has fallen out, take out small pliers and gently wiggle the broken shards out, one at a time. Remove all the glass possible, but you might not be able to get the glass in a tight corner.
Removing the solder and foil
Now take your soldering iron and melt off the bulk of the solder seam, slowly going all the way around the hole. Wipe excess solder off on your iron stand sponge. Do the same on the other side. During this process you will be able to remove any remaining small pieces of glass.
Apply the hot iron to the corner joint to expose the piece of copper foil that was wrapped around the broken piece of glass. With a pair of tweezers, grasp and very gently tug out that inner piece of foil while keeping the iron on the solder line to keep the solder molten. Try not to pull the foil off adjoining pieces. If some other foil does come off, then remove that entire length, scrape clean, wash off, dry, and re-apply a piece of the same type of copper foil, cut to size.
Re-flux the exposed foil lines, remove any solder blobs - particularly in any corners - with your iron, wiping excess off on your sponge again.
Replacing the glass
Taking the shape
Take your piece of glass that best matches the broken piece, and position it underneath the hole. Trace the shape of the hole onto the glass. This works best for flat panels. Curved forms usually need to have a paper template made by tracing from the back onto the paper. Cut the shape out of the paper and put it on the piece of new glass. Make sure that the grain of the new glass is in line with the original. Cut the piece out, grind to shape, doing lots of test-fitting in the hole, until it fits.
Foil
Clean any flux off the new piece from your test fittings, and apply the same size and colour backing of copper foil that was used on the piece that you removed.
Soldering
Fit your replacement piece into its place, making sure that it is level with its surrounding pieces. You might want to tape it into place. Check its position, and if you are happy with it, then tack it twice per side.
Proceed to solder it into place. If your fit wasn't perfect, or the piece is a little rough, fill in any gaps with some 50/50 solder. Let it cool, and then finish off with 60/40 solder. Blend your new solder lines with the quality of the solder lines on the rest of the piece.
Cleaning
Wash off the flux, scrub clean, and patina if required. If copper patina was used on the piece, don't worry when you apply the copper patina. It will not match if the panel is not brand new as copper patina ages much more than black patina. Wash the patina and polish it to blend the piece in.
First consider whether any repairs should be carried out at all. Repairing can sometimes cause more damage, and if it is an older piece, finding an exact match may be impossible. So gluing may be the better approach.
If small shards of glass are missing, daylight is visible through the broken part, or sharp bits are exposed, then it should be repaired, assuming the client is willing to pay.
Starting the repair
Having decided to repair, the first action is to use fine steel wool to remove any patina from the solder around the broken pieces, on both sides.
Removing the broken glass
Next, work out the shards using a fine blade to get between the broken pieces. You should be wearing safety glasses during all the processes of getting the glass out of the piece.
In some cases in may be necessary to score the remaining part of the broken piece with your cutter in a criss-cross pattern, from edge to edge. Also try to go toward the centre of the piece from each corner while making the score lines.
Now start tapping the centre of the broken, scored piece of glass with the ball on the end of your cutter and then work out to the edges. Keep tapping the glass and it should start to fall out. When most of the glass in the middle has fallen out, take out small pliers and gently wiggle the broken shards out, one at a time. Remove all the glass possible, but you might not be able to get the glass in a tight corner.
Removing the solder and foil
Now take your soldering iron and melt off the bulk of the solder seam, slowly going all the way around the hole. Wipe excess solder off on your iron stand sponge. Do the same on the other side. During this process you will be able to remove any remaining small pieces of glass.
Apply the hot iron to the corner joint to expose the piece of copper foil that was wrapped around the broken piece of glass. With a pair of tweezers, grasp and very gently tug out that inner piece of foil while keeping the iron on the solder line to keep the solder molten. Try not to pull the foil off adjoining pieces. If some other foil does come off, then remove that entire length, scrape clean, wash off, dry, and re-apply a piece of the same type of copper foil, cut to size.
Re-flux the exposed foil lines, remove any solder blobs - particularly in any corners - with your iron, wiping excess off on your sponge again.
Replacing the glass
Taking the shape
Take your piece of glass that best matches the broken piece, and position it underneath the hole. Trace the shape of the hole onto the glass. This works best for flat panels. Curved forms usually need to have a paper template made by tracing from the back onto the paper. Cut the shape out of the paper and put it on the piece of new glass. Make sure that the grain of the new glass is in line with the original. Cut the piece out, grind to shape, doing lots of test-fitting in the hole, until it fits.
Foil
Clean any flux off the new piece from your test fittings, and apply the same size and colour backing of copper foil that was used on the piece that you removed.
Soldering
Fit your replacement piece into its place, making sure that it is level with its surrounding pieces. You might want to tape it into place. Check its position, and if you are happy with it, then tack it twice per side.
Proceed to solder it into place. If your fit wasn't perfect, or the piece is a little rough, fill in any gaps with some 50/50 solder. Let it cool, and then finish off with 60/40 solder. Blend your new solder lines with the quality of the solder lines on the rest of the piece.
Cleaning
Wash off the flux, scrub clean, and patina if required. If copper patina was used on the piece, don't worry when you apply the copper patina. It will not match if the panel is not brand new as copper patina ages much more than black patina. Wash the patina and polish it to blend the piece in.
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