Glass Painting Terms

Tracing –
to paint a very thin line in one smooth, calligraphic stroke to define the basic shapes in the glass painting

Matting –
to apply a very thin coat of paint over the entire surface of the glass (usually
after tracing and firing) for further definition and highlighted details of the glass painting

Stippling –
removal of the matting to expose more glass and often used as a shading technique, using a pouncing motion, producing a pinhole effect

Stick-lighting –
removal of the matting to expose more glass and often used as a shading effect to create roundness and dimension in the glass painting

Firing –
the heating of the glass and paints to fuse the paints with the glass or stain the glass with the silver stains

Laminated Glass

Laminated glass is a type of safety glass that holds together when shatered. In the event of breaking, it is held in place by an interlayer, typically of PVB, between its two or more layers of glass. The interlayer keeps the layers of glass bonded even when broken, and its high strength prevents the glass from breaking up into large sharp pieces. This produces a characteristic "spider web" cracking pattern when the impact is not enough to completely pierce the glass.

The Glassy State

• Glass is a state of matter.
• Glasses combine some properties of crystals and some of liquids but are distinctly different from both.
• Glasses have the mechanical rigidity of crystals, but the random disordered arrangement of molecules that characterises liquids.
• Glasses are usually formed by melting crystalline materials at very high temperatures. When the melt cools, the atoms are locked into a random (disordered) state before they can form into a perfect crystal arrangement.

The complete description can be seen at the Corning Museum of Glass

Smooth Solder Beads

Good smooth soldering occurs when the temperature of the iron is correct for the job and the solder being used.

The problem of bunched up solder or peaks as you lift the iron from the solder is caused by the iron being slightly too cool for the job and the solder being used. Looking at the conditions causing the problems may lead to a better solution.

If the problem is caused by the iron being slightly too cool to let the solder flow properly, this can be caused by a number of things.

• If your iron is too low power, you may start out well and have the problem develop as you solder.
• If your iron is high enough power and you're using a 'rheostat' or dimmer controller, this has the effect of lowering the iron's power and the problem will occur as above.
• 50/50 (tin/lead) solder requires a hotter iron than 60/40 (tin/lead) solder to keep the molten metal flowing properly.

The best possible soldering iron controller is a genuine temperature controlled iron, where the iron’s controller maintains the tip temperature by applying full power to the heater when the tip cools slightly, but otherwise just 'idles'. If you can't get (or afford) one of these, possibly the best would be to get a higher power iron or throw away the 'rheostat' or dimmer 'controller'.

If the problem still occurs, then use 60/40 solder – which melts and solidifies in a narrower range than 50/50 - or perhaps do the soldering in shorter 'bursts', letting the iron recover for a couple of minutes before starting again.

In any case you need to match the speed of movement and the speed of feeding the solder to the iron according to the capability of the iron to adequately melt the solder.

Also you have to ensure that the foil has been properly fluxed and tinned.

Foil Pulling Away from Edges

If foil is pulling away from the glass on the perimeter of pieces, there are several things to remember.

Clean all the edges and surfaces just before foiling. This ensures there are no oils to interfere with the contact adhesive of the foil.

Avoid hand creams just before foiling as this increases the amount of oils getting onto the glass.

Remember that lots of heat breaks down the adhesive. So do not remain in one place too long. However the adhesive is not the element that keeps the foil attached to the glass in the long term.

Instead, think about whether the bead on the edge is thick enough to provide the rigidity required without relying on the adhesive of the foil.

Finally, think about whether an edging came would provide better support and finish to the piece.

Copper Foil Limitations

Unsupported windows

Windows without either rebar or internal support via Strongline or re-strip should not measure any more than 610mm in any dimension.

Flat work

It is not advisable to create anything over 1220mm (4 feet) by 1830mm (six feet) for a window installation even with re-inforcing bars. All such large copper foiled windows need an exterior piece of safety glass flush against the stained glass. Alternatively, split the window into smaller panels supported on “T” bar.

Reinforcements

Anything over 610mm square normally requires internal reinforcements with either Strongline and/or restrip. Inserting long strips of either Strongline (copper plated steel) or restrip (thicker strips of copper) in between the copper foiled glass pieces to create a "spine" and then a "grid" of internal support is necessary when dispensing with rebar (horizontal lines of brass, steel, or other stiff metals attached to the panel for structural support).

Advantages

The huge advantage of copper foil is in the construction of three dimensional pieces and free hanging or standing pieces.

Polishing Solder lines

Before polishing, clean the solder (see cleaning tips) and apply the patina, if any.

Use a good quality furniture polish or wax. Shake the bottle well if it is a liquid, then apply liberally to a soft cloth, or good quality paper towel, rubbing all over solder. If you have a glass with a deep texture, try to avoid this all over process, as it can be hard sometimes to remove all of the polish afterwards, and it is noticeable when it dries. Alternatively, mask off the glass from the solder.

Immediately after applying the polish, take a clean, dry soft cloth or new paper towel, and begin to gently rub the solder seams. If you are using paper towels, you will need a lot of them, as they tear up quickly. When both sides have been polished, check for any missed spots, especially along the edges of your solder seams. Also check for polish residue in tight corners and along the edge of the solder. An old toothbrush often works to remove it. If you need stiffer bristles, make sure you keep this new toothbrush separate from all the others in the house.

Lampshade Pattern/Cartoon Tools

Lampshade patterns –tools for custom-made patterns.

The items you need to have for creating your own pattern are not extensive or unusual.

• Craft knife or razor blade
• Baby/talcum powder
• Fine pointed felt tipped pen (Sharpie)
• Highlighting pen
• Pencil
• Eraser
• Carbon paper
• Drawing paper
  Masking tape
• Lampshade form
• End/vase cap
  

Further design process information is here and here

Lamp Panel Dimensions

Lengths of Panels

Lampshade Pattern Construction, 3

Cut the finished template into sections (if you are using a 360 degree form)
The masking tape template will need to be cut off the curved form and laid out flat. This is easier to do if you can logically separate the template into smaller sections. To do this you need to find lines running almost vertically from the top to bottom of the template. Mark these separation lines in a different colour. Also label each section.

Remove the template(s) from the form and press it out flat
Take a craft knife or razor blade and trim away excess masking tape from the end cap mark. Do the same for the bottom edge. Carefully remove the excess and throw it away.

Prepare a section of your work surface by sprinkling some talcum powder on it, and onto your hands as well. This will help keep the sticky side of the masking tape from sticking where you don't want it later.

Using the craft knife, slice through the middle of each separation line that you marked in a special colour. Try to stay in the exact middle of the line. Be careful that you do not tear or cause to pull away the underlying masking tape as you cut through the line. Do this with each separation line.

Starting with the top edge, use the craft knife to gently pull the masking tape template off the form. If the masking tape starts to separate, stop and repair it. As each section is taken off the form, put it sticky side down into the talcum powder and press it flat. Do this for each section.

Scan/copy the template(s)
At this stage you can scan each section into Glass Eye or other image software. This allows you to:

• select and change colour/glass choices very easily
• print out or email colour proofs to the client
• keep them in an electronic form for future reference or manipulation

You don't have to scan your pattern, but you do need to make at least two copies of the pattern.

Cut out one copy and reapply it back to the form
One copy is fastened back onto the form so that you know where to put your glass pieces.

Cut out the other copy and paste it onto your glass
The other copy is cut out using pattern shears (the three-bladed scissors) and glued onto the glass for cutting.


Based on work by Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles

Lampshade Pattern Construction, 2

The second stage is to get the design onto the prepared mould and make adjustments to give a balanced and pleasing appearance

Trace the pattern onto the template
Take your design elements and trace them onto the masking tape on the form. The use of carbon paper enables you to put the design element and trace right on top of the taped mould so that the image is transferred onto the tape.

An alternative method is to use a pounce wheel to perforate the design element. The element is placed on the form and dusted along the perforated line with a bag of dark coloured powder such as powdered poster paint. This will leave a temporary trace on the form that can be changed easily, but needs to be pencilled in before too much other work smudges the shape.

Do this tracing with each design element, flipping and rotating them around so that you don't repeat any element exactly. Fill up major sections of the form using this method. Drawing the main feature first and filling with the minor elements helps provide a pleasing composition.

Fill in blank areas
Now that the key design elements are onto the masking tape template, create background pieces by linking your design elements. Use pencil, since you will probably need to do corrections. Remember, avoid creating large horizontal pieces. Larger vertical pieces are usually better. However, try to keep all the pieces of similar size.

Correct any pieces and number them
Once you are satisfied with the design, go over every line with a fine felt tip pen or other ink pen so that each is clear and distinct. Number each piece and mark colour and glass textures as necessary.


Based on work by Christie A. Wood, Art Glass Ensembles

Grinding Tips

Protect your cartoonWhen grinding a lot of pieces, you can place a piece of clear float glass over top of your paper pattern, or encase it in plastic to protect it from becoming wet. Then you won't have to grind, dry, test, and repeat. You can just grind and test, quickly grinding where needed.

Placing your cartoonAlso try to have your pattern where you are test fitting right beside your grinder, to cut down on time spent moving from grinder to pattern.

Grinder resevoir maintenanceRinse out your grinder sponge often (at least daily), and replace when it becomes deformed.

Clean out the ground up glass in the bottom of your grinder regularly with a narrow putty knife. Scrape it out into a small old plastic container with a top, and then throw the container into the garbage when it is full.

Grinder head maintenanceMove your grinder head up or down, as it is wears, to a new section. You should be able to get three or four sections out of a typical grinder head.

Copper Foil vs. Lead

The copper foil technique may or may not have been invented by Tiffany, but he certainly used it extensively in his studio. Thus it is often referred to as the Tiffany method.

It is neither easier nor more difficult than lead. However, it’s significantly cleaner because it does not involve the use of whiting or cement, which is why this technique is most often taught to beginners in North America. In Europe leading is most often taught first.

Some people deduce that copper foil must be stronger than lead because the solder goes all the way around and between each piece, but lead is still the preferred method architecturally, holding up huge weight-bearing windows for hundreds of years.

One thing copper foil can do, though, is allow stained glass panels to curve, as you can see in the multitudes of Tiffany lampshades that are still around today.

There are a few other differences from lead in the construction of copper foil panels. First, copper foil is less forgiving in that there is no channel to hide errors in glass cuts. Precision in cutting becomes especially important.

However, while cutting may be a little more difficult, soldering foiled pieces is a little easier because you can’t burn through copper foil the way you can through lead. If you accidentally apply too much heat, the solder just drips through to other side and forms a ‘mushroom’ that must be cleaned up later. Or it cracks the glass.

Finally, lead panels are usually constructed from the corner out (pieces of wood form an “L” shape and the panel is started in that corner and grows up and out). Copper foil panels are usually started inside a (temporary) wood frame that goes all the way round the panel, like a picture frame. You don’t need to start in one particular spot because the pieces aren’t going to shift within their frame.

Copper Foil Repairs

Repair or not

First consider whether any repairs should be carried out at all. Repairing can sometimes cause more damage, and if it is an older piece, finding an exact match may be impossible. So gluing may be the better approach.
If small shards of glass are missing, daylight is visible through the broken part, or sharp bits are exposed, then it should be repaired, assuming the client is willing to pay.

Starting the repair

Having decided to repair, the first action is to use fine steel wool to remove any patina from the solder around the broken pieces, on both sides.

Removing the broken glass

Next, work out the shards using a fine blade to get between the broken pieces. You should be wearing safety glasses during all the processes of getting the glass out of the piece.

In some cases in may be necessary to score the remaining part of the broken piece with your cutter in a criss-cross pattern, from edge to edge. Also try to go toward the centre of the piece from each corner while making the score lines.

Now start tapping the centre of the broken, scored piece of glass with the ball on the end of your cutter and then work out to the edges. Keep tapping the glass and it should start to fall out. When most of the glass in the middle has fallen out, take out small pliers and gently wiggle the broken shards out, one at a time. Remove all the glass possible, but you might not be able to get the glass in a tight corner.

Removing the solder and foil

Now take your soldering iron and melt off the bulk of the solder seam, slowly going all the way around the hole. Wipe excess solder off on your iron stand sponge. Do the same on the other side. During this process you will be able to remove any remaining small pieces of glass.

Apply the hot iron to the corner joint to expose the piece of copper foil that was wrapped around the broken piece of glass. With a pair of tweezers, grasp and very gently tug out that inner piece of foil while keeping the iron on the solder line to keep the solder molten. Try not to pull the foil off adjoining pieces. If some other foil does come off, then remove that entire length, scrape clean, wash off, dry, and re-apply a piece of the same type of copper foil, cut to size.

Re-flux the exposed foil lines, remove any solder blobs - particularly in any corners - with your iron, wiping excess off on your sponge again.

Replacing the glass

Taking the shape
Take your piece of glass that best matches the broken piece, and position it underneath the hole. Trace the shape of the hole onto the glass. This works best for flat panels. Curved forms usually need to have a paper template made by tracing from the back onto the paper. Cut the shape out of the paper and put it on the piece of new glass. Make sure that the grain of the new glass is in line with the original. Cut the piece out, grind to shape, doing lots of test-fitting in the hole, until it fits.

Foil
Clean any flux off the new piece from your test fittings, and apply the same size and colour backing of copper foil that was used on the piece that you removed.

Soldering
Fit your replacement piece into its place, making sure that it is level with its surrounding pieces. You might want to tape it into place. Check its position, and if you are happy with it, then tack it twice per side.
Proceed to solder it into place. If your fit wasn't perfect, or the piece is a little rough, fill in any gaps with some 50/50 solder. Let it cool, and then finish off with 60/40 solder. Blend your new solder lines with the quality of the solder lines on the rest of the piece.

Cleaning
Wash off the flux, scrub clean, and patina if required. If copper patina was used on the piece, don't worry when you apply the copper patina. It will not match if the panel is not brand new as copper patina ages much more than black patina. Wash the patina and polish it to blend the piece in.

Choosing Copper Foil Widths

Width of the foil relates to:

Glass thicknessThin glass requires thinner foil to maintain a neat solder line of about 3mm. Thicker glass requires thicker foil to maintain the same width of solder line. So 2mm glass would require 4mm foil, and 3mm glass would need 5mm foil.

Glass textureHeavily textured glass usually needs thicker foil, as the thickest part of the glass is greater than the thickness of average glass. This requires a little experimentation to get the one you like best, but usually is one step up in thickness from your usual. Remember you are looking at only one half of the resulting solder line thickness on each piece of glass.

Desired width of solder lineThe desired width of the solder line will also affect the choice of foil. If you like a thin line of solder, you should choose foil that is only 1 or 2mm wider than the thickness of the glass. This will give a solder line of 1 or 2mm wide. Be careful when choosing a thinner width. You still need enough foil on your glass to maintain the strength of the solder bead. If you like wider lines, a foil that is 3 or 4mm wider than the glass thickness will give a 3 to 4mm wide solder line.


Of course is possible to trim the copper foil to be thinner after foiling.  This can be to even up the line, or to thin it.  Gentle pressure with a sharp craft knife will cut the foil to the width you want. You may want to do this when all the pieces are assembled before soldering.  This gives you the opportunity to see how the width of the resulting solder line will be.  It is also the time when you can see what the line of the solder bead will be and make adjustments before begining the the soldering.

Choosing copper foil Thickness

Foil comes in different thicknesses as well as widths. Thinner is easier to form round curves, but tears more easily. Thicker is more robust, but crinkles up more on inside curves and so needs more burnishing. Mostly it is personal choice on what is easiest to work with.

Choosing copper foil backing

The question most people want to know is why there are different colour backs to the foils. The answer has to do with the finished piece, and only matters if you are using transparent glass. If you are using opaque glass that you cannot see through it doesn’t matter which type you use.

The backing should be of the same colour as finish to the solder lines. Since you can see through transparent glass, you will be able to see bits of the back of the copper foil, especially at certain angles. It would look peculiar to have a piece with a beautiful black patina, only to catch glimpses of copper when you are looking at it.

Therefore, if you are planning to patina your piece black, use black-backed copper foil. If you are planning on leaving it silver, use silver-backed copper foil. If you are planning to patina it copper, use copper backed copper foil.

Applying Patina

Patinas are acids. You should wear gloves while doing this work.

Cleaning
After cleaning the solder beads, wash the panel off with warm water and a little dish washing liquid to remove oils and other residues. When washing use a very soft scrubbing brush to get in all the little crannies.

Dry the piece with a soft old towel. If the piece is framed in zinc, make sure that any trapped water is eliminated and the piece is entirely dry. Often letting it stand overnight will be sufficient. A panel with no moisture will help the polish of the solder lines to be more even.

Application
Pour a small amount of the patina into a small container so as not to contaminate the rest of your patina. Do not pour the remainder back into the bottle, as it will begin to neutralise the main supply.

Apply your patina with a small flux brush reserved for the purpose, or a piece of a rag. If you use a rag, renew it frequently. Do not be afraid of putting too much on. If you are not happy with the colour when dry, you can rub the solder over with a 400 gauge (also known as 000) wire wool to abrade the surface. Then give it a further coat. Rub with a soft cloth to a shine.

Preservation
To preserve the desired finish, a coat of beeswax helps, but you must remember that copper will oxidise over time no matter what you do. It is this that gives it a rich deep antique lustre.

Applying Foil by Hand

There are a number of tools and machines to assist centering the foil on the edge of the glass pieces.  Sometimes, though, you want to do foiling where use of the machines is not convenient.  This describes a method of doing foiling by hand without centering tools.

Clean the edges of the glass of any powders, or dust from grinding and oils from handling to ensure the foil sticks tightly to the glass. You do not have to be particularly careful about marks on the surface of the glass.

Keep your hands dry and clean while foiling, as oil or moisture on your hands will prevent the foil from sticking to the glass.

Start foiling on a straight length of glass. If the glass is only curves, begin the foiling on an outside curve. If the end of the foil wrap doesn't meet perfectly with the beginning, you can trim off the uneven overlap with a sharp craft knife. Only light pressure is required to trim the foil. Be careful not to scratch the glass, which can happen if your blade is dull, or you apply too much pressure.

To centre the foil on the edge of the glass, hold the piece vertically and look on both sides of the glass while you apply foil to the bottom edge with the sticky side of the foil facing you. This enables you to judge the evenness of the application.  It may take a bit of practice to look down both sides of the glass as it requires overcoming the habit of using the dominant eye.  To practice, you can look down the side that matches your less dominant eye and judge the amount of foil that overlaps the edge.  You can switch your concentration from side to side to determine the equalness of the foil overlap on each side.

Burnishing the foil onto the edges and then on the upper and lower surface with a fid will help the foil adhere firmly to the glass throughout the soldering.

Are you ready for a wholesale show?

This gives some guidance on deciding whether to take on wholesale work.

Body of work
Do you have a 'body of work'? If someone picks up one of your pieces, and knows that it is yours rather than anyone else’s, then you have an identifiable look/style/technique = body of work.

Repetition
Can you repeat the colour/style/technique accurately? It's fine that colour varies, but within a very small range. Repeatability is important when a buyer is looking at your sample and expects to receive an exact copy. Most buyers choose from samples. They do not expect one-offs.

Production processes
Your processes must be robust enough that you can produce the quantity that retailers order with the quality that they expect. Figuring ways to make quality pieces quickly is necessary to be profitable.

Profit
Is your product such that you can double your material costs and give yourself a healthy hourly wage? Remember the buyer will need to double or triple the wholesale price and still sell it to customers. If not, you need to determine what can be done to reduce your expenses and time. You also need to consider what you can do to increase the desirability of the work.

Cash flow
You need to create samples, pay the booth fees etc, make the work that is ordered, pack and ship, and get paid a month or two after the buyer receives the work. You need to have the reserves to meet the ebb (up to six months before the show) and flow (three months after the order or longer, depending on production time scales) of cash.

Marketing
You have to like the marketing of your products, as well as the creating, producing and selling.

Customer relations –
This relates to after-show communications and information, in addition to what you do on the show floor.

Promotion –
Getting into the right publications is important to create a visible profile.

Advertising –
This is another expense, so research carefully the publications and media that will be used by your potential buyers.

Catalogs –
Not only do you have to have a catalogue and a line of products you can produce that is distinctive and desirable to the buyers, you also have to guard that catalogue and only issue it to genuine buyers to avoid rip-off merchants.

Next steps
If you are still interested, find wholesale shows, get an artist’s pass and look at:

• Which booths get most interest
• Try to isolate the important elements
• booth appearance
• uniqueness of products
  display of samples
• quality of interaction with buyers
• marketing ploys
• literature/catalogues

Write all these down as you discover them, so you won’t forget anything.

Determine the costs:

booth and its preparation

travel, accommodation and food

cost of promotion – catalogues, advertising and other marketing

cost of samples – materials and preparation

If your answer to all the bold headings are “Yes, I can do that”, then you are ready to design your booth and apply to a selected wholesale show.

Selecting Craft Shows

Not all craft shows are equal. Some are stupendously good, while others are poor. You won't have any advance guarantees which it will be. Some shows that appear to be terrific turn out to be a waste of time. Other shows that seem ordinary are some of the best ever. Although you will always have a few of these surprises, there a few guidelines that will help you guess what a show will be like.

Seasonal
Christmas shows are best, and the closer they are to Christmas, the more you will sell. It's not that summer shows are bad - some are great. It's just that outdoors can be dangerous at any time of year – rain, wind or worse.

Admission
Shows that charge admission will usually have more sales than those that let people in free.

Rent
At higher rent shows you will usually sell more expensive work than at lower rent shows. It doesn't matter how much the space rent is, just how much you sell from that space.

Juried Shows
Because "juried" shows are selected, they usually have high-grade work. Customers come to these expecting to find high quality, expensive work. These shows also attract a higher ratio of customers to browsers.
Community and charity shows, on the other hand, usually get customers looking for very cheap goods.

Festivals
Shows that are attached to some kind of festival (like music, harvest, etc.) are usually poor - especially if the craft is only a secondary part of the show. But, then again, these are the shows that are most likely to surprise you.


The full article by Dennis Brady.

Promotional materials

There are a large number of items that you can have personalised - pens, pencils, key chains, mouse pads, mugs, etc. - with the intention of giving them away and providing a permanent reminder of your contact details. These have their place in trade shows but probably not at an art or retail show. However most of these items are of poor quality and do not last long, reflecting poorly on your business. Also remember that by doing give-aways you are reducing your profits. Even if you give the item with a purchase.

A business card, or an elegant postcard is a far more sophisticated solution. Money is better spent on a high-class business card. Make it one that they want to keep. If it has a picture of one of your products on it they will keep it before a plain one. You can have magnetic cards printed for you or you can buy the magnets and stick your paper card to it.

Postcards showing an item of your work with details on the back are also important promotional items. Creating a series can make an interesting collection for people who come back to you.

The advice of an ex-insurance agent who believes in promotional items is that you should not waste your money on pens. Create a unique card.

Packaging Glass

Wrapping the item

Panels –
Wrap each panel in several layers of bubble wrap or corrugated paper, then add a layer of foam board insulation at least 12mm on each side.

3-D -
Make sure you have padding (bubble wrap, corrugated paper, or foam sheets) between each item. Then make sure they are fastened tightly together in one bundle. Make multiple nested pieces into one big unit, then wrap that so it's well padded.

Boxing

Panels -
Ship stained glass panels in a wooden crate. Make a wooden box and line it with foam, on all sides. The ends of the box should be of substantial timber, making the box at least 100mm (4") thick. Use lightweight, thin wood, but stiff enough that it remains durable. Screw wood on the front and back of the edge of the framing timbers. Fill the space so the glass is in the middle of the box. The most important thing is to minimise flex. You also must minimise shock from a drop.

3-D -
Line the box in bubble wrap or corrugated paper. Put a layer of filler in the bottom.
Set the piece in the middle of the box, then fill all around with more filler. Press the filler firmly so the packaged items can't move and shift in the box. Allow at least 50mm of packing around the contents and ensure the contents cannot settle through the box filler perhaps by placing a cardboard pad on top of the fill before placing contents in the box.

Filler

Filler is material that will fill the space between the wrapped items and the sides of the box. This can be shredded paper, bagged peanuts or foam sheets. Bubble wrap with peanuts is sufficient, but don't use peanuts unassisted. They have a habit of vibrating off to one side of the package, leaving the cargo unprotected on the other side. Mix the peanuts with either wrapped newspaper or excelsior (shredded paper) or place them in numerous small bags so they can't shift.

Double boxing

Many people double box everything. This involves putting the boxed items inside another bigger box. Suspend the inside box within a larger box, bigger by at least 50mm on all six sides. You can use cardboard strips to make an 'X' to put in the bottom and top and small pieces of foam on the four sides to keep the inner box from shifting. Fill the spaces in between the two boxes with something that will absorb shock or impact, like shredded paper. For a very fragile piece the outside box might be made of 6mm plywood.

Caution

One caution on packing: Don't overdo it. If you force so much packing material (peanuts, bubble wrap, etc.) into the boxes, the whole thing (inner and outer box) becomes a solid mass and the force may still transfer to the piece and break it. When packers say "float," they mean it. You want enough packing material to hold the stuff in place well, not so much that it becomes part of the piece.

Images for Juries

Images of work

Uniform neutral backgrounds and accurate colour make the artwork jump off the screen and easy to evaluate. Images must be sharp with good contrast. Matching backgrounds for a uniform presentation are recommended. Some advocate black borders around the image (which includes the background); in any case there should be a dark border to fill the projected space. White backgrounds that don’t fill the frame are extremely white and make it difficult to define the work easily. Review any automated scanning to ensure the image is up to standard.

Distracting elements should be kept to a minimum. A few are variable background colours and textures; variable border colours, or none; low contrast; too much white in the images and background; and fuzzy images

Booth images

The booth seems to be artists’ weak spot. The booth images should be as set up for a show. They should be actual rather than digitally created. Some sense of scale needs to be included.

Learning
Because jury images are the artists’ most important asset, attending an open jury viewing is important. It allows you to see a variety of presentations and learn the best and make notes of what to avoid. So if the opportunity presents itself, attend an open jury viewing.

Based on information from Larry Berman

The Exhibition Agreement

In the world of visual arts, it may sometimes be thought that formal agreements are unnecessary because they might restrain the creative processes or indicate a lack of trust.

But conversations in which important things are decided are open to interpretation or misunderstanding unless they are formally recorded. Although in theory a verbal agreement may be legally enforceable, in practice it cannot be relied on because of problems of evidence. The advantages of having a signed written contract will usually easily outweigh the risks of not having one. A contract can be drawn up by either an artist or an exhibition organiser.

The following checklist takes the form of a number of headings that both artist and exhibition organiser need to consider and negotiate around whilst they plan the exhibition. In this way, the checklist can act as a comparison to any document provided by the gallery itself, and to identify the areas where specific negotiation needs to take place.

The checklist
1. Who are the parties to the exhibition agreement?
2. What is the purpose of this agreement - to hold an exhibition showing of particular works, so list them in an appendix.
3. What is the nature, scope and intention of the exhibition?
4. Where will the exhibition be shown?
5. When will the exhibition be open to the public?
6. When will the preview take place?
7. Will the exhibition tour?
8. Who will deliver the works to the venue and return them afterwards to the artist?
9. Who is installing and de-installing the exhibition?
10. Who is taking care of loss, damage and insurance?
11. How will works for exhibition be selected?
12. Publicity and promotion
13. What fees and expenses are due to be paid?
14. Will work be for sale?
15. Copyright and reproduction rights
16. Moral rights
17. Who owns the work?
18. Who is sponsoring the exhibition?
19. Governing law - what jurisdiction
20. Force Majeure
21. Can you change the agreement?
22. Whole agreement?
23. Appendices - The List of works and Tour schedule form an integral part of the agreement.
24. How can the agreement be terminated?
25. When should it be signed?

The full version of this checklist is at Artists' Newsletter

Consultation and Design Fees

Consultation and design fees can be difficult to calculate and ask for, but you are trying to make a living. When you call your accountant or lawyer for advice the clock starts ticking as soon as they start listening. You should not be a whole lot different.

Establish at the beginning that the project includes a specified number of hours of planning/survey/meetings, of agency management, and of creative work. Other things may be added as the project requires. Also establish that exceeding those hours by 10% (or 5% if it’s really big) will incur additional charges.

Once into the project give weekly updates on how much time has been used and the progress achieved. That way, if the client starts adding things or changing their minds, they understand the consequences. If they think it’s worth paying for, great. If not, take it off the table. You can always be generous and waive the extra fees, but giving clients that kind of choice saves a lot of resentment (and time) on both sides.