Soldering is a well known and widely used process where two or more metal items are joined together using a fusible alloy with a melting temperature that is lower than their own. The most commonly used solder is a fusible alloy consisting essentially of a tin and lead mixture.
The solder actually dissolves a small amount of the metal’s surface, at a temperature that is well below its melting point and joins with it. It is this solvent action of the solder alloy that causes it to fuse with and attach to the surface of the metal items being joined.
The solvent action that takes place, between the solder and the metal, makes the joint chemical (not just physical) in nature and causes the properties of the joint to differ from the original solder’s properties and from those of the surface of the metal items being joined. When metal parts are joined by solder, a metallic continuity is established as a result of the interfaces where the solder is bonded to the metallic surfaces.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Wednesday, 6 January 2010
Sunday, 3 January 2010
Maintenance of Soldering Bits -Periodic Cleaning
It is important to periodically clean the shank of the plug style bits as well as the inner surface of the element. This is done to keep the bit from seizing in the element and also to keep from building a layer of oxides and contaminates that would obstruct the transfer of heat from the element to the bit. After allowing the iron to completely cool the bit should be removed and the bit shank and inner walls of the element should be wiped clean with a mildly abrasive emery cloth or soft wire brush. This cleaning process should be done as often as needed, depending on the work environment, but not less than once a week.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Wednesday, 30 December 2009
Soldering Bit Maintenance - Wiping the Bit
During use a bright, thin, but evenly tinned surface must be maintained on the working portion of the bit. Oxidation and contaminants must be continually removed from the bit surface to achieve maximum performance. This will help to ensure the proper transfer of heat from bit to work and will eliminate the possibility of impurities being transferred into the solder joint.
Between each solder application simply wipe the working area of the bit clean on a damp cellulose sponge to remove the dross and oxides that will accumulate and add small amounts of fresh solder to the bit as needed. A gentle wiping is all that is required and care must be taken not to over wipe the bit, because oxidation will occur on the surface quite rapidly if all of the solder has been removed. Once this oxidation occurs it becomes difficult, or even impossible for solder to wet to the bit. It then becomes necessary to properly clean and re-tin the bit in order to regain the appropriate wetting action required for adequate performance. When you have finished the soldering application, you should wipe any contaminates from the bits surface and add a small amount of fresh solder to it before allowing the iron to cool. This layer of solder ensures protection from oxidation of the bit between uses and will help to extend the bits working life.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Between each solder application simply wipe the working area of the bit clean on a damp cellulose sponge to remove the dross and oxides that will accumulate and add small amounts of fresh solder to the bit as needed. A gentle wiping is all that is required and care must be taken not to over wipe the bit, because oxidation will occur on the surface quite rapidly if all of the solder has been removed. Once this oxidation occurs it becomes difficult, or even impossible for solder to wet to the bit. It then becomes necessary to properly clean and re-tin the bit in order to regain the appropriate wetting action required for adequate performance. When you have finished the soldering application, you should wipe any contaminates from the bits surface and add a small amount of fresh solder to it before allowing the iron to cool. This layer of solder ensures protection from oxidation of the bit between uses and will help to extend the bits working life.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Sunday, 27 December 2009
Soldering Bit Maintenance - Tinning
Introduction
Proper care and maintenance of your soldering iron bit involves tinning, wiping (and wetting) and also periodic cleaning of the bits shank. These actions are very important and quite simple to perform, but are often neglected. When performed properly they will not only ensure the longest possible working life for your soldering iron bits, but they will also have positive effects on the overall performance of your soldering iron.
TinningTinning may not be necessary if the bit you are using is new and arrives pre-tinned from the manufacturer, or has been used previously and been properly maintained. When a bit does need to be tinned (or re-tinned) it must be clean and free of any surface oxidation before it will accept any solder. Once the bit is properly tinned, care should be taken to prevent bit de-wetting by occasionally cleaning and adding small amounts of fresh solder, especially if the bit is being subjected to long periods of inactivity or idling.
If the bit to be tinned is un-plated copper it should be cleaned and dressed with a single cut, flat file. After filing the bit it should be heated in the iron. When the bit reaches the lowest temperature required to melt solder, a rosin core solder should be fed onto the bit. Do not allow the iron temperature to rise too high before applying the solder, because excess heat will cause the bit surface to re-oxidize and no longer accept the solder.
If the bit is plated it should never be filed, or heavily abraded. Care should be taken to ensure the plating is not damaged or removed, as this will shorten the working life of the bit dramatically. When pre-cleaning is necessary for plated bits, they should be cleaned with a mildly abrasive emery cloth and may require an acid flux to remove the oxides before tinning, or re-tinning.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Proper care and maintenance of your soldering iron bit involves tinning, wiping (and wetting) and also periodic cleaning of the bits shank. These actions are very important and quite simple to perform, but are often neglected. When performed properly they will not only ensure the longest possible working life for your soldering iron bits, but they will also have positive effects on the overall performance of your soldering iron.
TinningTinning may not be necessary if the bit you are using is new and arrives pre-tinned from the manufacturer, or has been used previously and been properly maintained. When a bit does need to be tinned (or re-tinned) it must be clean and free of any surface oxidation before it will accept any solder. Once the bit is properly tinned, care should be taken to prevent bit de-wetting by occasionally cleaning and adding small amounts of fresh solder, especially if the bit is being subjected to long periods of inactivity or idling.
If the bit to be tinned is un-plated copper it should be cleaned and dressed with a single cut, flat file. After filing the bit it should be heated in the iron. When the bit reaches the lowest temperature required to melt solder, a rosin core solder should be fed onto the bit. Do not allow the iron temperature to rise too high before applying the solder, because excess heat will cause the bit surface to re-oxidize and no longer accept the solder.
If the bit is plated it should never be filed, or heavily abraded. Care should be taken to ensure the plating is not damaged or removed, as this will shorten the working life of the bit dramatically. When pre-cleaning is necessary for plated bits, they should be cleaned with a mildly abrasive emery cloth and may require an acid flux to remove the oxides before tinning, or re-tinning.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Wednesday, 23 December 2009
Soldering Bit Maintenance - Summary
If a bit has not been properly tinned, solder will not wet to it. Without solder on the bit heat transfer from the bit to the work surface may become extremely difficult and time consuming, or even impossible.
You must understand that proper wiping and continuous wetting is important and a lot easier than continually having to clean and re-tin the bit, especially at the risk of damage to the plated surface because of accidentally scratching, or over abrading it.
When you notice that an iron is not performing as well as it did when it was new you will find that poor thermal transfer from the element to the work is usually the cause. Improper care and maintenance and the lack of a periodic cleaning of the bits shank can cause a layer of oxides, which will inhibit the transfer of heat through the bit. Always ensure plug style bits are properly seated into the elements before heating the iron. If a bit is not inserted fully into the element there may be a gap behind the bit. This gap can cause a hot spot within the element causing a premature failure of the soldering iron.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
You must understand that proper wiping and continuous wetting is important and a lot easier than continually having to clean and re-tin the bit, especially at the risk of damage to the plated surface because of accidentally scratching, or over abrading it.
When you notice that an iron is not performing as well as it did when it was new you will find that poor thermal transfer from the element to the work is usually the cause. Improper care and maintenance and the lack of a periodic cleaning of the bits shank can cause a layer of oxides, which will inhibit the transfer of heat through the bit. Always ensure plug style bits are properly seated into the elements before heating the iron. If a bit is not inserted fully into the element there may be a gap behind the bit. This gap can cause a hot spot within the element causing a premature failure of the soldering iron.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Other links to Soldering Iron Maintenance:
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2019/11/soldering-iron-maintenance.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2010/01/maintenance-of-soldering-bits-periodic.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-wiping-bit.html
https://glasstips.blogspot.com/2009/12/soldering-bit-maintenance-tinning.html
Sunday, 20 December 2009
Choosing the Soldering Bit
An important consideration, when choosing the most appropriate bit, is that thick, short bits will store more heat and deliver it more efficiently than long, narrow ones. This makes the standard chisel configuration the usual bit of choice. The chisel shaped bit is often used for joining flat seems together. The working edge of the chisel bit should be about the same width as (or slightly wider than) the seam that is being soldered.
Usually a solder connection is made in one to three seconds. If the connection takes longer than three seconds, you may need a larger bit, a higher wattage iron or a completely different type of soldering equipment altogether. It is a good idea to familiarize yourself with other soldering methods and equipment that are available in order to ensure that you are utilizing the best, safest, most efficient and economical means available to perform your soldering application.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Usually a solder connection is made in one to three seconds. If the connection takes longer than three seconds, you may need a larger bit, a higher wattage iron or a completely different type of soldering equipment altogether. It is a good idea to familiarize yourself with other soldering methods and equipment that are available in order to ensure that you are utilizing the best, safest, most efficient and economical means available to perform your soldering application.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Thursday, 17 December 2009
Soldering Bits
Type
The bit type is determined by the soldering iron it is used on. There are screw type bits (bits that screw onto, or into the solder iron element), slip on bits that slip over the element and plug type bits that slide inside of the element. There are even bits that are a permanent part of a replaceable element/bit assembly. Regardless of the type of bits required it is always important to have them fully seated to the element and periodically cleaned, in order to maintain proper heat transfer from the element into the bit.
ConfigurationThe bit configuration to use should be determined by the intended application requirements. Some of the basic bit configurations available include ballpoint, conical, diamond (pyramid), chisel, and spade. You will find that there are usually a variety of styles, or modifications available, within each of these basic configuration families, to accommodate specific application requirements. Although less efficient, a more narrow configuration is sometimes required to obtain accessibility, or to achieve the desired results.
SizeThe bit size to use (regarding the working portion) should also be determined by the intended application requirements. The bit body, or shank must be matched to the iron it will be used with (always select a bit that was designed, or approved for the soldering iron you intend to use on the application being considered). As with bit configuration though, there are usually a variety of modified working diameters available within each family of standard bit sizes that are available. These modified bits are generally referred to as turned down bits, because the working area of the bit has been turned down to a smaller diameter than the body, or shank diameter. Turned down bits are not as efficient, but are sometimes required to solder in otherwise inaccessible areas.
Courtesy American Beauty Tools
The bit type is determined by the soldering iron it is used on. There are screw type bits (bits that screw onto, or into the solder iron element), slip on bits that slip over the element and plug type bits that slide inside of the element. There are even bits that are a permanent part of a replaceable element/bit assembly. Regardless of the type of bits required it is always important to have them fully seated to the element and periodically cleaned, in order to maintain proper heat transfer from the element into the bit.
ConfigurationThe bit configuration to use should be determined by the intended application requirements. Some of the basic bit configurations available include ballpoint, conical, diamond (pyramid), chisel, and spade. You will find that there are usually a variety of styles, or modifications available, within each of these basic configuration families, to accommodate specific application requirements. Although less efficient, a more narrow configuration is sometimes required to obtain accessibility, or to achieve the desired results.
SizeThe bit size to use (regarding the working portion) should also be determined by the intended application requirements. The bit body, or shank must be matched to the iron it will be used with (always select a bit that was designed, or approved for the soldering iron you intend to use on the application being considered). As with bit configuration though, there are usually a variety of modified working diameters available within each family of standard bit sizes that are available. These modified bits are generally referred to as turned down bits, because the working area of the bit has been turned down to a smaller diameter than the body, or shank diameter. Turned down bits are not as efficient, but are sometimes required to solder in otherwise inaccessible areas.
Courtesy American Beauty Tools
Monday, 14 December 2009
Tack Soldering
Tack soldering is the placing of a small amount of solder on the foil to hold two or more pieces together, so the main soldering can be performed without disturbing any placing of the remaining pieces.
The advantage of tack soldering is it can allow you to completely eliminate framing. You can just hold two pieces together with one hand and spot a dab of solder to hold them together. You don't have to do this for all pieces - just enough of the outside pieces to hold the whole project together. Once you've tack soldered, everything will be held in place and you can just run the beads without further considering the placing of the pieces.
For free form shapes, tack soldering is always quicker. You may want to use nails or tacks to hold all the glass in place while you tack solder.
With big foil projects or ones that have to fit into a predetermined dimension, tack soldering ensures there is no growth through movement of the pieces.
It's a quick way to avoid having to fiddle with each piece to make sure each is exactly lined up before starting with the running of the beads.
The advantage of tack soldering is it can allow you to completely eliminate framing. You can just hold two pieces together with one hand and spot a dab of solder to hold them together. You don't have to do this for all pieces - just enough of the outside pieces to hold the whole project together. Once you've tack soldered, everything will be held in place and you can just run the beads without further considering the placing of the pieces.
For free form shapes, tack soldering is always quicker. You may want to use nails or tacks to hold all the glass in place while you tack solder.
With big foil projects or ones that have to fit into a predetermined dimension, tack soldering ensures there is no growth through movement of the pieces.
It's a quick way to avoid having to fiddle with each piece to make sure each is exactly lined up before starting with the running of the beads.
Friday, 11 December 2009
Soldering Bit Composition
Most bits are made of copper, which is suitable because of its excellent thermal conductivity and high heat content per volume. Some bits are plain copper, while others incorporate various additives or have a protective plating applied.
One of the most common problems associated with plain copper bits, is that tin-lead alloys (more specifically the tin in the alloy) will attack the copper, dissolving it away. This makes it necessary to continually file the bits to maintain the required shape, giving these bits a shortened working life. Another concern is the amount of impurity that is imparted to the solder joint when using bare copper bits.
Adding tellurium to the copper improves both wear and oxidation resistance, but does not protect the tip from rapid deterioration. It has been determined that both iron and nickel, despite their low conductivity, are wettable, offer a high level of resistance to erosion and their heat per volume is close to that of copper.
Because of these facts it is possible to maintain good conductivity, while increasing the erosion resistance by plating copper bits with either nickel or iron. These plated bits are generally referred to as nickel-clad, or iron-clad and make up a large majority of the bits in use for modern soldering applications.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
One of the most common problems associated with plain copper bits, is that tin-lead alloys (more specifically the tin in the alloy) will attack the copper, dissolving it away. This makes it necessary to continually file the bits to maintain the required shape, giving these bits a shortened working life. Another concern is the amount of impurity that is imparted to the solder joint when using bare copper bits.
Adding tellurium to the copper improves both wear and oxidation resistance, but does not protect the tip from rapid deterioration. It has been determined that both iron and nickel, despite their low conductivity, are wettable, offer a high level of resistance to erosion and their heat per volume is close to that of copper.
Because of these facts it is possible to maintain good conductivity, while increasing the erosion resistance by plating copper bits with either nickel or iron. These plated bits are generally referred to as nickel-clad, or iron-clad and make up a large majority of the bits in use for modern soldering applications.
Courtesy of American Beauty Tools
Tuesday, 8 December 2009
Even Solder Beads on Edges
Running an even bead on the edges of copper foiled projects is often difficult. Several things can help.
Hold the panel vertically and ensure the edge you are applying solder to is horizontal. This means that you have to keep moving anything that is not rectangular.
To apply solder and move the piece ideally needs three hands – one for the solder, one for the iron, and one to manipulate the piece. Failing such an evolutionary leap, you can use a small vice to continually alter the angle of the edge, you can get a friend or colleague to manipulate the panel, or you can place the solder so that you can pick up little drops of solder and place them on the edge. With practice, you can pick up some solder and transfer it to the edge before the previous dot of solder has cooled, so leaving a smooth bead by the joining of the dots.
Alternatively, you can place dots of solder near each other around the piece. You then come back and with one hand manipulating the piece the other can use the solderimg iron to heat and join the dots.
You do have to be careful that you do not move the panel before the solder has hardened, or it will run down the newly created slope to the new horizontal edge.
I find that it is much more difficult to run a bead on an edge than it is to “pat” the solder dots. This patting motion allows the solder to join together, but does not heat such a long line that it flows as you turn the piece to keep the edge currently being soldered horizontal.
Hold the panel vertically and ensure the edge you are applying solder to is horizontal. This means that you have to keep moving anything that is not rectangular.
To apply solder and move the piece ideally needs three hands – one for the solder, one for the iron, and one to manipulate the piece. Failing such an evolutionary leap, you can use a small vice to continually alter the angle of the edge, you can get a friend or colleague to manipulate the panel, or you can place the solder so that you can pick up little drops of solder and place them on the edge. With practice, you can pick up some solder and transfer it to the edge before the previous dot of solder has cooled, so leaving a smooth bead by the joining of the dots.
Alternatively, you can place dots of solder near each other around the piece. You then come back and with one hand manipulating the piece the other can use the solderimg iron to heat and join the dots.
You do have to be careful that you do not move the panel before the solder has hardened, or it will run down the newly created slope to the new horizontal edge.
I find that it is much more difficult to run a bead on an edge than it is to “pat” the solder dots. This patting motion allows the solder to join together, but does not heat such a long line that it flows as you turn the piece to keep the edge currently being soldered horizontal.
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