Aperture Drop Supports

The supports for aperture drops need to be rigid at tack fusing temperatures. A number of materials are rigid enough to maintain their form. Those such as ceramic, or fibre board are commonly available. The ceramic forms can be purchased from various suppliers. Fibre board can be carved in a number of shapes and so are more versatile. They are more flexible than ceramic so need careful support.

The supports also need to be of such a material that will not trap the glass when cooling. This makes metals unsuitable for use as drop supports. The metal contracts more on cooling than the glass does, and so traps or crushes the dropped part of the glass.

Note that the supporting structure does not have to be flat. It could slope toward the centre, or could be curved down on the outside. The permutations are up to your imagination.

The other element of support is the material to hold the support surface above the kiln floor. These supports need to be stable so should have a relatively broad base in relation to the height of the support. Two good kinds of supports are kiln posts and fire brick sawn to the appropriate height. There other possibilities to create home made kiln furniture. [qv]

Note that it is important to kiln wash all the supporting materials to avoid any glass getting stuck to them.

Aperture Drops – Length of Drop

The height of the drop is related to the thickness of the glass.  The glass moving at the edge of the hole becomes thinner than the rim, so the deeper the drop, the thicker the glass required.

The general rule of thumb is to have 6mm for the first 50mm drop. For each additional 50mm an additional 3mm of glass is required. So, by this method a 20cm drop will require glass at least 15mm thick.

A more accurate method is described by Frank van den Ham in his book – Kilnforming Glass, a Master’s Approach.  This is based on obtaining an approximately 4mm thick rim and relies on measuring the amount of glass needed to provide an average wall thickness of 4mm.  The method is:

• Double the drop length, and add the diameter
• Divide the result by the diameter
• Multiply that result by 0.4cm (the average thickness to have a robust result)
• This gives the resulting thickness of glass required in centimetres.
• Divide centimetres by 2.54 to get the decimal part of an inch.

This method relates the diameter (or other dimensions of the opening) to the length of the drop. 

By this method a 20cm drop through a 20cm aperture would require a 1.2cm/0.5” thick blank.  If it were to be a 30cm drop, a 1.6cm/0.625” thick blank would be required, but by the rule of thumb, a 2.1cm/0.825” blank would be needed.

However, if you have a blank and want to know how far you can safely drop it you can determine it by:

• Thickness (in cm) divided by 0.4cm
• multiply by diameter
• subtract the diameter from that result
• divide this result by 2 
• This gives the length of the drop safely possible in cm.
• Divide centimetres by 2.54 to get the decimal part of an inch.

By this method a 12cm aperture with a 1.5cm (5 layer) blank would require division by 0.4cm to give 3.75.  Multiply that by 12cm (the diameter of the aperture), giving 45cm, subtract 12cm and divide the result by 2 which gives a thickness of 16cm or just over 6 inches.

The thinning effect of the stretching can be influenced by both the temperature and material of the supporting material, so this method cannot be infallible.

Revised 14.12.24

Aperture Drops Introduction

Aperture drops are apparently simple to do. But to have control of the process and to be able to get repeatable results is relatively complex. There are various elements that need to be considered when preparing to make one of these. The main technical considerations are:

The height of the drop from the shelf.

Material of the supporting ring or material.

Diameter of opening of the aperture.

Size of the blank in relation to the aperture

Initial firing speeds

Height in kiln and relation to the distance from the heating elements.

Observation of the progress of the drop.

Arresting the drop

Annealing and cooling.

Finishing the resulting drop.

The above instalments will discuss these in turn.

Scoring Opalescent Glass

Cutting opalescent glass often gives difficulties in getting clean breaks along the score line. You need to remember that the opals do not make much if any sound when cut with the correct pressure. If you are scoring so that you hear the ziiip sound, you probably are pressing too hard. When the score is too hard, the opals do not break easily or truly. Only the same pressure as used on transparents is required. Feel the pressure rather than listen for the sound.

Care in the Operation of Soldering Irons

The most important element in the deterioration of soldering iron bits is long idle times. This is where you leave the iron on, and not in use, for a long time.

Have everything ready when you start soldering, so the iron will be used continuously, and will not sit there building up heat, while you get ready to use it again. An idle iron will keep heating to its maximum capacity, and without anything to transfer the heat to, it will start burning off the tinning, after a short while. So if you will not be using the iron for a while turn it off until you are ready again.

The other elements leading to deterioration in performance come from lack of cleaning and tinning of the tip. When the coating of solder burns off or is coated with carbon you get poor heat transfer from tip to working surface making it appear that the iron is not heating properly.